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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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The pedal travel on my P38 seems to have suddenly changed, the top half of the pedal travel does almost nothing. This seems to have happened suddenly after being parked up for a week. The pedal doesn't sink down and if I stamp hard ABS activates as normal.

I've checked and the brake fluid level hasn't changed. I've also checked the hard brake lines and flexis but can't find any leaks. The ABS pump is working normally and cuts in after 3-4 pedal presses. Discs/pads are new all around from a few months ago.

I'm planning to bleed it again per RAVE but I'm concerned that this just appeared out of nowhere with no obvious cause. Anyone got any thoughts on what could cause this?

I found a recommendation online shortly after I posted this for "3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive" which says "designed specifically to bond rubber gaskets and weatherstripping to metal" so I thought it was worth a try. I bought a tube from eBay which should last the rest of my life.

It works very well. Once it was tacky I shut the door with a towel in between the frame to add a bit more pressure and it was fully set when I came back in a few hours. It doesn't seem like it will come off in a hurry.

I'm looking for suggestions on what to use to stick my a-post door seal back on. The seal on the drivers side has come away from the a-post/roof pillar join. The seal seems to have shrunk so it no longer matches the shape, unfortunately they are no longer available. It's number 3 in the below diagram / ALR6938

ALR6938

I bought some Evo Stik Impact Adhesive today but it didn't seem very sticky. It barely held up the roof section never mind the the bit that needs to stretch round to the a-pillar.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Can you point me to where you got that foam for the top of the heater core? I'm about to pull mine out and could do with something similar.

I noticed my car was loosing pressure from the tank overnight and I found that my EAS reservoir was leaking. It passed an MOT like that last week. Mines in a pretty sorry state so I'll be buying a used one and refurbing.

Thank you, that is a great picture.

I went out tonight and re-routed mine to go under the engine mount. Everything now lines up perfectly.

I noticed two broken clips on the bottom of the engine mount that look like they are meant to hold the harness (they attach to the two holes you can see in your picture). I've cable tied mine into the two holes but it looked fine without.

On my car the O2 sensor connector on the drivers side doesn't reach the holder on the side of the sump. I believe that I routed the harness incorrectly when I had the engine out. It's not causing any issues but I'd like to fix it whilst I'm fiddling in that area. RAVE has a "harness routing" section in the electrical troubleshooting manual but it's not very helpful.

GEMS harness routing

Does anyone have any pictures or a description of how the drivers side O2 sensor/starter branch of the harness should be routed? Does it go over the engine mount or under it? I don't see any clips that hold it so I may be missing them too.

I would guess it's done about 40-50,000 miles since the rebuild. As long as it's not the block I'll be happy. I'm thinking of getting some ported heads from v8developments so I'm not concerned about the heads. I think I'll follow your blue hylomar suggestion when I reassemble - as you say it can't hurt.

I'll update the thread when I get round to removing the heads.

I was thinking yesterday that the P38 has been pretty reliable recently and it has now decided to reward me with a coolant leak. Not just a normal coolant leak from a hose, it's coming from the around the bottom 3rd head stud on the passenger side bank.

The engine was fully rebuilt a few years ago with top hat liners, ARP head studs, new gaskets etc. As far as I know there's no coolant passages from the block to the head in the middle so it must mean I've got a cracked block or a cracked head? I can't seem to find much evidence of Rover V8s with cracked heads. I've seen cracked blocks before but I thought generally they cracked behind the liner which lets coolant into the cylinder rather than between the block face/head gasket.

Has anyone seen anything similar?

I did this last week as I'm attempting to fit projectors with clear lenses. To open it I stuck it in the oven at 150 degrees for 7 minutes. Then I got a wide flat screwdriver and pryed under the sealant to lift one side of the lens up until it comes off.

I tried the first headlight at 120 degrees for six minutes and attempted to go around the edge which resulted in damaging the lip most of the way round. I personally wouldn't consider using a heat gun as it seems like it would be much more effort with more chance of breakage.

I'm getting water pooling in the lower area behind the right rear light after heavy rain. I can't seem to find the source.

I'm only getting water in on the right rear, left rear is completely dry. I'm not getting much in the boot but there is a trickle coming from the right rear area.

So far I've:

  • replaced the rear tailgate seal (including bending the flange outwards)
  • removed the rear light, checked seal and refitted. The seal seems to only come as part of the light so I couldn't replace that.
  • checked sunroof drain - it's clear.

Does anyone have any clues what to check next?

The gears are all connected unfortunately. I'm guessing my problem is caused by the flaps being a bit tight towards the "face" end of travel. It's not massively tight and I can move it with a finger but it's definitely got more resistance as it gets towards the end of the face setting. Once it's in the face position I can remove the motor and give the gear a little push to fully close the feet vents off.

I assume that the recalibration just runs the motors until they stop and records the potentiometer positions?

I suppose it's not really a problem as I just leave it in auto anyway. I'll probably take the dash out next year and make it a bit smoother. At least I managed to fix the dodgy binnacle bulb whilst in there.

Excellent, thank you. That sounds very promising. I was planning to check one of the instrument binnacle bulbs tomorrow so that's an easy check whilst I'm in there.

I noticed today that I barely get any air out of the two outer face vents. I don't think it's leaking out of the joints as I resealed them when I was last in there, but it's definitely something I shall check shortly.

Going through the distribution settings I noticed that when I select the face vents setting I still get most of the air coming out of the feet vents and a little bit out of the middle two face vents.

I've got no faults and I've tried a recalibration of the motors which made no obvious difference.

For the third time this year I've noticed my car not sitting level. Upon noticing this I put the calibration blocks in the bump stops and both times one sensor (different corners each time) was much lower than the other side. Disconnecting the sensor shows that the pins have some green corrosion on them on both the male/height sensor side and the female/body side. I can clean it and that will fix the reading but doesn't solve the root of the problem of why this keeps happening.

Since my car is an early car with the later style height sensors I have a short harness that connects between the height sensor connector and the body connector in the wheel well (see here for a picture of the harness). I assume the problem is something to do with the quality of this harness and the sealing of the connector not being quite right.

Has anyone else had this problem? The only thing I can think to do is to remake the short harness myself with new good quality connectors and pins unless anyone has any better ideas?

Whilst we're on this topic. Does anyone know the steps needed to remove the heater box once the top of the dash is off? Are there any shortcuts to the RAVE procedure?

Once the revs are up the air temperature increases. The engine and the vapouriser both get hot.

I was refering to the top and bottom hoses on the audi heater core, sorry that I wasn't clear about that. I was just wondering if one was flow and one was return and I had them mixed up.

The coolant for the vaporiser is plumbed in series. Going out the inlet manifold, through the vaporiser, into the heater and back out as usual. It's located next to the brake booster pump. It's a Tomasetto Antartic and I believe it has 16mm water connections. Like you I have a reducer from the inlet manifold to the vaporiser then another back to the heater core.

My audi heater core isn't getting hot at idle. After leaving the engine to idle for 15 minutes the heater core temperature sensor was only reading 25 degrees. I've got the feed from the engine going through the LPG vapouriser into the core and back out. Unfortunately it was so long ago that I can't remember whether the top or bottom pipe is the feed or return.

A few questions. Does it make a difference which side is the feed and which is return? Which is best?

Do you have the temperature sensor attached to the rubber pipe or somewhere else?

In addition I've got a leak from the pipe connections to the core. I have to keep going in and nipping the jubilee clips up every few months. What style of clips have you guys used? Whilst I'm on changing the clips I'm also wondering if it's worth replumbing it so the vapouriser is fed from the return rather than the feed?

Thanks

I commanded it to run continuously from the BECM and gave it a helping hand and it started moving again. I've also given it a spray but not sure if it made much difference since it looks sealed. Finally I cleaned the connection just in case there was some corrosion there.

Once it was running the drivers side was parking correctly but the passenger side was parking in the middle of the light, so I took off the arm an re-aligned it. Makes sense since there's only one park switch in the drivers side I believe.

My left hand side headlight wiper has stopped half way through its travel and doesn't move anymore. Drivers side still works fine.

Has anyone seen similar and fixed theirs?