You guys are looking too much into this :-) :-) in 20K km except the "resistance" vs. the caster adjustment when stopped, there were never any ill effects. While I don't "race" the RRP38 (I got other stuff to do that), I do have a lively right foot ...

Marty, your assumption about the reasoning in the sequence for raising (rear -> front) and lowering (front -> rear) must be correct, because I've noticed also Audis and Benzes with air suspension follow the same pattern. However they are not bound (at least the A8 in our workshop) to these door opening / press on the brakes things, the suspension keeps working up and down in such moments also. Curious ...

The axle "cross link" in the front, for example at the traffic lights (a very quick dip or raise) it is done regardless of the custom brake inhibit switch position (switch is under the seat right by the EAS brain).
The 'door wake' adjustment it is obviously void if the switch is "on".
Height changes above a certain speed (not sure which) can take place EVEN if a door or tailgate is open, regardless of the inhibit embedded in the system, I've noticed this one time I was transporting a large heavy load on the tailgate and it went from access/crawl to normal height without me doing anything. This was before I made my door open custom switch under the seat...
All in all, I am delighted with the RRP38's EAS, especially in this age that it has little secrets and is fully rebuildable ... must have been a horror to own one of these vehicles in the 90s where your fate depended only on the dealer ... aargh

Only that you missing? ah ah .... :-)
just joking!

Nice find! I have a lot of these PDFs but this is very manageable!

Now, if only I could find some of these rare items ... :-)

OK, this is standard behaviour.
Now, my neighbour's L405 and his previous L322 both had the option to drop to Access already on the move he uses this entering our complex, so by the time he is in front of his garage the car is already down. I believe this is an improvement of the way the EAS works on the P38, which does not allow it to drop down until it is stopped.

as all suspension movement is inhibited when the brake pedal is pressed
I removed this very annoying feature on mine. Nothing bad came out of it, and only one very slight thing has to be considered, which, being myself the only driver, once I am aware it is OK.
This is: lifting and lowering the car changes the caster angle, and if the brakes are pressed it does provide a lot of resistance and the axle moves against the brakes. Therefore if I am in a condition in which the brakes are pressed AND the EAS comes on, I simply use the hand-brake ...
Probably this is the reason why the inhibit is in the first place, but I see it instead as an additional on-off cycle on a system already troubled by a myriad of other factors ....

This for Grizzly is perfect.
Me I have fogs so will run a separate wiring and just hope I can use another fog switch (where the manual hi-low transfer would be, for example)

Uhm ... mine won't go into Access unless I am at zero speed, even if I pre-selected before.
What you are suggesting in mine works in that "crawl mode".

I mean I'd like to select access mode and the lady to drop her fat body onto access before I stop (say, under 10 km/h), this way it is fully down by the time you stop :-)

Mine did not had the tow bar or electrics, I bought a Witter flange type and a second hand AMR3007 with a round 7-pin connector. Installation was super-easy and needed no additional efforts.
I did not go for a 13-pin simply because I could not find one ...

Look online for instructions or information on STC8875AB "Split Charge Unit", this is (was) the official towing kit which included this relay you are talking about. If you can't find it, I can send it to you (actually I could load it up in the library if I knew how ...)

Always used it, especially to attach and detach the trailer (what a blessing, air suspension!).
Also with passengers, parents and woman's parents are older and somewhat of short leg reach :-)

To prevent the bothering system interruption when a door opens, I've inserted a switch that allows me to disable the 'door open' signal, so that the car can continue to go down. I wish we could setup Access Mode at limited speed like newer RRs can do, to do this in ours we need a way to fool the EAS which looks for the "P" and the vehicle speed at zero...
Anyone want to play? :-)

I got lost going along this topic ... I thought you want to wire auxiliary lights to use independently, correct?
And the only thing original to use (reuse) would be the fog lamp switch, correct?

In that case I doubt you will be able to use the original loom, as it is very BeCM-dependent ....
I want to do the same, and use a fog switch but so far I got that:
A - you need to run a separate wiring with its own relay and connections;
B - you might or might not be able to use the fog switch, or perhaps needs to be gutted to become a simple on-off ... as it is, is merely a signal sender to the BeCM.
Any ideas?

BECMs also talk best to diagnostics with the ignition OFF. Sometimes they will communicate with Pos I or II on, but I tried mine the other day to look at an input once I'd started the engine and it said no communication. Turned ignition off and connected straight away.

On this matter I'd like to give thanks again to the PUB for being what it is, because after years of dwindling with VCDS (when you need to have the car in Pos. I or II), when I got the RRP38 and the Nano I was always having issues with the diagnostics for the BeCM, until I got it from here that it should be ignition off .... cheers to all here!

Richard compliments on the flawless description of the system and how to address faults!

There is also another place upfront in the engine where to look for trouble, that would be (if the system has one, that is) the MAP sensor or whatever your system has to 'sense' engine running and allow for change over.

The surface rust you see on the tank is .... nothing! I've seen much worse! In any case is thick metal, don't worry.
I do not know laws in the UK, but in most EU countries you are required to replace the tank every 10 years, if you have been running on LPG since a while, might be worth checking that.

If your reducer has been around, you might have a fault in there as well. My last LPG failure on the daily runner was failure to change over to LPG with great smell in the engine bay -> it was the membrane inside the reducer that failed and it was spewing LPG everywhere, so it was going towards the MAP sensor and failing to provide pressure data.
Being a Turkish piece of junk it was, I got a Polish replacement for little more that 45 euro.

The Romano in my HSE has already had the reducer rebuilt at 5 years and around 80K km, but after another 30K km I am not happy with its performance and will replace it with a new one.

You bet! Repair to more modern VAG vehicles has become a luxury, both in terms of cost of parts and ease of labor ....

Pierre, when I made mine last time I did not glue/silicon properly the leading edge of the top seal (the rubber on the angle windscreen/door at the top of your pic), and I get an occasional drop when I open the door after it has raining, car wash, etc.
Most bothersome.

Sounds like a good idea, this is one of the areas where easy/affordable replacements are not available.
I've seen sometime in the past somewehere some rebuild ideas for the Classic's pump, but never for the P38.
I will follow with interest ...

I find it odd - but lucky - it was managed by a 6-ton press.
I had a friend with a Diesel on 35" and a heavy foot and he was constantly replaced them, needed to take the hubs to a shop where everyone was running for cover when the +30t machine was applying pressure ....

I have also read and heard is good to replace them (all) after a certain period, less rolling resistance, better running and fuel consumption, etc. etc. Mine have 273K km but it is not bad idea anyway, are on my list ....

It is ... haven't had time to go pick it up yet from the courier's office :-(

Cool thanks - it was mostly a curiosity, as I mentioned my fobs never worked and I only used the key, and plus my BeCM was "disarmed" and EKA was off as well. This might soon change ... :-)

Ah then - manual and tdi is a tank. All the usual ones (dashboard peeling, input gear, misalignment of the timing chain, sagging headliner, broken plastics, and so on) are all well known and documented, and then let her play :-)

I think this is great! I am in love with your granddaughter! Except that I have the age difference to have her a a daugher ... ah ah :-)
I think is great she likes to tinker with stuff and understand how vehicles operate - makes you a better driver, or a driver, really.
My little one (3 to 4 this year) just sits on my lap and turn the wheel, but is ok. Already knows what screwdrivers and pliers are made for, and I think is a good thing.

I think the D1 300 is a good and balanced car, albeit a bit tractorish, and perhaps sluggish with the auto (is it mechanical injection or the late ones with EFI?). I remember mine fondly, lots of space, very versatile vehicle. I regret selling.
Watch for rust as commented, without sunroofs you got a (big) problem less to worry about.

Welcome! Nice! I had a nice V8 on my sights (even had rear A/C!) but I ended up ... going back to the Queen. Still look at them though, eh eh ....

PS: I have never imagined the battery stay had a clip for that pesky bleed pipe .... thanks for the info!