iv done this job on mine , the biggest issue i had was with the adjustment nut on the bottom ball joint., be careful that it dosn't wind in when you do up the nut , just holding the bottom of the balljoint dosn't stop the adjuster winding up and jamming on the housing. it took longer to loosen that bloody thing than it took to do the job, twice, and yes it leaks .

mine has an eka number and is Australian "97 gems "

do not use silicon anything unless its grease to help in assembly. use nitrile o rings , some recommend buying original o rings as they arnt that expensive. done properly they will last many years. do not over tighten them as you can crack the housing, just tighten and then loosen off half a turn for expansion!
PS if the screw is tight or corroded at the back of the screw you might have to drill the head of the screw and unwind the rest of the screw out the back of the retainer. you may have to buy a longer than usual drill bit to reach the screw.

be careful when it comes to hydrogen, look up what is happening in California and the sales of hydrogen powered cars , once again they are tanking badly, sorry another failure from the powers to be. it's outragedly expensive to run hydrogen after the free fuel ends. buyer beware.

i had a similar issue a while ago , i removed the strip on the roof and checked the seal on the gutter and also removed the top strip and found the mastic had detached from the corners of the windscreen , you can see where it's attached or not. wiped out the dirt and crud with a screwdriver and a damp rag, allowed it to dry and filled up the voids with mastic (bought from a auto paint shop) all is good now no leaks.

reading about how ford has walked away from ev's and toyota saying that it's more about hybrids, i was just wondering what's the perception of ev's on the other side of the world. the Aust gov keep pushing but it's not working. the Aust gov have lost the plot with the renewables push for solar farms and wind farms that are proving to be a joke at best. i think the biggest issue with ev's is the way they have been pushed as a replacement for ice cars, they will never replace an ice car with today's technology. they were rejected a 100 years ago when they came up with the petrol engine cars and it will happen again if they are not careful. i do believe there is a place for ev's but that is not on the open roads, stay within a 100km's of home and do your own charging from home and that is how they should be advertised, city vehicles only.
not a range rover issue but if we were in the pub, it would be up for discussion.

when i have these types of troubles i revert back to basics, air, fuel, ignition. is there a restriction in the air flow, blocked filter, rag in the system, throttle valve opening, all good, on to the next one, ignition, is it missing have dead spots, breaking down under load, running like crap, all good on to the next one, fuel. is it slow to pick up, sluggish, not revving, just will not go any faster, stalls out at 3000 rpm for instance, it's a fuel issue, first thing fuel pressure, fuel filter, fuel regulator, maf or map sensor, o2 sensors, and anything else that is associated to fuel? dose the exhaust smell bad , if any of this applies to your issues look in that direction. i think it's a fuel issue.

makes the postage seem cheap, i ordered some shims for a vw engine from heritage motors (vw suppler), the shims were 20$ a set the postage was 25$ each as i needed two sizes , it's a piece of cardboard with 4 shims , about 4mms in thickness, would fit in a business envelope, showed up in a big box of fresh air with two pieces of cardboard rattling around in it and it cost over 50$ for postage, was charged twice for the postage but it arrived in one box . i will never order from them again .

Merry Christmas to all and happy motoring for the rest off the year and the new year to come . joy for all.

this is the small amount of knowledge that i know about GM boxes. the numbers stand for 5l40e ,5l is the amount of gears ,eg 5 speed , the 40 is the amount of forward thrust the box will move eg 40 =4000lbs of weight the box will move forward. this is a small number and would be the reason that the boxes fail . a 4l60e is the box used for the early LS motors with the 60 being 6000lb of forward thrust and this can be increased up to 75 =7500lb and that's in a car , not a heavy 4wd. i imagine that the 40e can also be beefed up in the same manner. if you google 'how to rebuild a 5l40e gearbox' and watch the video.
PS the e stands for electronic.

so is any of these ideas working, during this global warming period that we are in🤣

if the snow and ice are sticking to the wiper blades and arms , try some wd 40 or CRC even diesel , what ever you have .spray it onto the arms and it might stop it icing up . just an idea , its what they use to put on the plow so the ice and snow flies off.

hello, all the way from Australia.

a 2nd option is to use the fluffy side of stick on velcro , you bye it from a craft store, used it the other day worked well.

ok so i asked about the recovery software that he uses , brought it about 8 years ago from British 4wd in Hobart, it came with 2 serial numbers , one for rovers and the other for disco's, he thinks it was $160 for each car and stated that he would never have paid those prices for anything of this nature. he had to find the software by typing recovery diagnostics into play store ,. the dongle has made in china on it , so clive might be right about it all being in the software. it is the pro version
Alan the owner off British 4wd retired a couple of years ago so the store has gone but he still sells second hand parts from wrecks he owned apparently.
no annual subscription fees and i dont know about what phone it work on .

he said he picked it up from someone in Hobart ,Tasmania , i will ask him again for some clarification

so today i fixed my tailgate , i hope . replaced the push button , still didn't work properly , fiddled with the plug out of the button , got an unstable reading with the multi meter so i replaced the plug to the button , still didn't work properly . only thing left is the solenoid , knowing that i didn't have another solenoid i unscrewed the cover on the solenoid and done an inspection , played with the motor and the plug , came to the conclusion it's the motor in the solenoid , knowing that the earlier model solenoid is different i wasn't happy as i may have to buy a new one i decided to dismantle the earlier model solenoid with a couple of screw drivers as it is clipped together and removed the motor that looked very similar as the later one i tried to fit it to find that there is some small differences . FYI the motor is identical it just had a small metal shroud that i removed easily and on the front of the motor there is a small piece of plastic that just unclips and then it's the same as the later model. so the early solenoid motor is the same on the inside as the later model solenoid for those that have a 1997 model rover that is different on the outside only , the mechanicals are different but the motor will fit.

just an FYI there is another unit that will read the rovers , "recovery" is the name of the unit . it's a dongle type that you read off your phone and cost around 160aus dollars , it will read all types of rovers and disco's and give live data with graphs , my friend uses it on his L322, seams to be ok when he shows me things.
'' google recovery land rover diagnostics dongle''

i have been having the same issue with my rear latch , sometimes it works and others it doesn't . still trying to work out if it's the button or the solenoid,. if i operate it manually, move the levers in the tailgate by hand that is , it starts to work again for a short time then stops again. i need to fix it .

check your water pump if you are using a little bit of coolant. there is a hole under the pump that will tell you its leaking . the hidden water leak.