The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
280 posts

is there a way of testing these amps or do you just fit them and hope for the best . the amp sub woofer cd player(is it all one or is the amp separate? ) in my daily drive has been removed but i have others in the wrecks i have so can they be tested before installing?

Beowulf wrote:

Sorry Gilbert, I saw the broken images too after posting and went back and fixed them. In the meantime I see you also have been by.

Thank you, Mad-as! 20 thousands metric or imperial? Me thinks 20 thousands of an inch would be way too much.

20 thou is 0.5 mm thats 0.25mm from each side . the problem is if they bore at 10thou and it dosent clean up the bore on say no5 cut then they start again and you pay twice because they have done the job twice. you will not be doing this with this motor again so the amount cut out is irrelevant .
oversize pistons generally come in 10 thou 20 thou 40 thou 60 thou oversize. if you just hone out the cylinders it can oversize the bore to much for standard rings ,in other words your motor will be loose and wear out quicker than it should and you could end up with piston slap , this can damage the bore
PS take the stripped down block to your machinist and let him do what he recommends , if he says 10 thou then its 10thou if he can just hone and clean it up then it will be alot cheaper especially if you can reuse your old pistons, don't forget to measure your old pistons as they wear as well and when you put it all together after its been honed the gaps are generally to great
if it was mine it would be a 20 thou cut, no questions . you still have 2 more over sizes to go . at the end of the day its a case of how much you wish to spend .

the crank has to be removed to be measured for size also if the block to be washed it has to be removed . what is the hub aligner , (harmonic balancer)?,just seen pics all sorted now just give the bolts on the crank a hit with a hammer to loossen also ask about replacing the cam bearings when having work done on the block
yes the bolts are AF its an American motor
as for the lip it will be cleaned up when its bored , its not a case of the hone marks are still their its a case of how round your bores are. i recommend 20thou cut to clean up bores , happy honing:😀

enter image description herethese are the triple sport that i just picked up . my daily drive has futura rims

![enter image description here](https://i.imgur.com/E6j90kg.jpg "enter image title here")22'' rims anyone interested they have 35 profile tyres not 50 .

i just went and retrieved two p38s one complete the other parts 400km trip one tank of fuel in the evening so lights on . how would that go in electric land ?
i looked at the vehicles that Richard put a link to , all the ones that had towing capacity had fuel pumps so not really electric, but i wonder if their would be access to the fuel pump through the floor?

i have a set of those rims on a wreck i just picked up, also have a set of 22'' yes thats right 22'' on another wreck with 50mm profile tyres , how to waist money. will try to load pics later.

you have to use the original bell housing, and yes it bolts strait on but if you want to use the v8 TC you have to modify the bell housing so you can do up the bolts , this where he got stuck , the bigger TC dosent quite fit and you have to drill a hole in the side to get access to the bolts.
the original gear box ripped up the pump and TC so it destroyed the box, its a common fault .

that;s what he is doing except he got some dodgy advise and got stuck with the bolts on the flex plate , didnt know he had to cut a hole in bell housing to do them up with other things . have directed him to Ashcrofts and i will pay more attention with the job
PS this is an upgrade using the hp22 TC out of the p38 , it also needs to be remapped .

yes the electronic set ups are for models that didnt have the electronics to start with , this is a D2 so has the electronics to run the EH box .

have forgot to ask about this , he struck a problem and stopped, couldn't get to the bolts , will give some direction for the info he needs as he couldn't find it ,he was also told that he would need a computer to run it but i think that is only required if you don;t have an electronic model eg defender .

hi dave spoke with dale about his issue , he has replaced the intank pump but it did not fix the problem . asked about the 3rd pump apparently there is a intank pump an external pump outside the tank and the main pressure pump?have looked for leaks but did not find anything. he is using SCOPE as his diagnostics (i think thats what it was called) runs through a dongle to a phone app, appeared to work ok. just a side note i think i heard it miss a couple of times but this could have been the ac kicking in but it didnt sound right ?

Morat wrote:

or not need a fuel pump!

so what is the towing capacity off an electric 4wd, 3500kg is the base limit , my shack is 300km return , sorry not really an option is it .

yes that's very right Richard , if i was to buy a new car today i really don't know what i would actually buy but it would hopefully have access to the fuel pump 😁 😁

the big reason for these issues is the cost , you do know that every p38 sold was sold at a loss , i think it was a billion dollars or more loss. it was the cost factor why they didn't put the 4.4 v8 in along with other things . but a hole in the floor for access to the fuel pump would be handy .to look at it in hindsight now and comment is easy. you have to make the odd mistake to learn what not to do or how to do it properly. if it was made today it would be different , well i would hope so ....

i brought some shit part shocks , its all in the name! just saying.

for those that don't know what the gap is for , it tells the ecu where top dead center is on start up, so it knows where it is and when to fire.

when my switch pack stopped i started by using the multi meter from the power pin in to the next hole in the board to find where the power stopped ,(use the ohm setting) just follow the the tracks on the board. my problem was the holes in the board had gone green and the corrosion had eaten the copper track away in the hole under the vanish in several places . you may have to scratch off the varnish to get a good contact , just use the probe from the multi meter , be careful not to damage the track . when you find the fault just soldier a wire from the power side to the other side
PS i went and purchased the correct wire ,soldier and also a set of drills(get the ones with the plastic knobs) to clean out the green holes from an electronic hobby shop, made it an easy job, cost about $20 all up . happy hunting.

if you had solid tires you would defiantly fix the eas and not go for coils . the ride would be atrocious . fork lifts have an injected sold rubber Tyre if you would like to be the our test dummy, but they still wear out and are outrageously difficult to change 😃
is there a reason why my emoji is not in color and when did we get emojis. i found them when i tried to make a face.
they change colour when you press reply 😉

hi dave thanks for the reply , i will look into the things you mention ,also he replaced the turbo pipe as it was damaged but i will still look into it . he mentioned that their was 3 pumps so i went with it , will clarify when i ask him? yes it dose have the clear fuel line and he did mention that it was something to look at . he has some type of diagnostics and i offered to drive around and look and watch the graphs etc , will report back when i see him again.