have done a couple of earlier ones , generally they leak because the bushing has worn on the bottom of the shaft or the shaft itself has worn
PS their was two seals available for them standard and a better one.
hi all just a note on how its going , have removed all from the inlet side and resealed, as stated didn't find anything obvious . managed to get it started and reving about 2 3 grand and found the entire left bank dead ,no spark . replaced spark plugs on left side no change so its possibly leads but most likely coils, will have another go today .
are you saying the same squeek is still their
don't go throwing your discs away just yet, measure them first . if they are in size just put more pads on them they will wear in and clean up the disc faster than you think. the thickness has nothing to do with the braking power as long as they are the right thickness is the important thing, if they are to small your pads will come out the front of the caliper of the disc when they wear down ,if you want it to stop better buy better quality pads
PS don't buy cheap chineses discs you will end up replacing them with the next set of pads you do
PSS they don't have to be shiny and smooth they are quite rough when they are machined, just like having the plate rub up against them?
new original discs would be quite expensive i would guess
ok time for an update , coils arrived , fitted and guess what its not the coils (testing them wrong) . cracked it and walked away in disgust even though i know it wasn't the coils . went back later in the day started up and sounded different , would rev with slight miss managed to move the metal island out of the driveway and under cover .
have now made a loom up so i can pin test the maf without damaging the wires or the plugs. hopefully this will happen today when i have an assistant to assist
PS how to test a TWIN output coil,
primary coil is tested by probing the inputs , negative on negative ,positive on positive multimeter on 200 ohms should read around .5 to 1.4 or their abouts , mine read around 1.1
secondary coil test is done bye probing BOTH the hi outs (where the leads come out of the coil) mutti meter on 20k ohms place the positive and negative on the two outputs , reading should be around 8k to 15k ohms or thereabouts, old coil read 11.3k ohms , new coil reads 13.8k ohms. not shore if that makes it stronger or weaker with the old coil reading lower
now have to check out the maf , will report back later.
just a little FYI for those thinking that a race cam or some other cam will be better than than one you have as standard, just remember that the ecu is not tuned to run a different cam and mapping is done with the replacement off the chips in these not a laptop (gems not sure about the bosch) . also that your heads may need some work to make the benefits of the cam work properly , then it's the exhaust and manifolds that may require replacing as well , there isn't much point putting in more fuel and air if you can't get it out .
when building a race motor it starts with the crank grinding , different surfaces for different purposes. just that in itself should say something, you can't just replace parts and expect them to work properly if you don't do the other bits to go with it . in most cases when people replace their cam only, do not admit that its not running right , it has a dead spot or it runs rough in a certain area of the rev range or uses more fuel for no real gain.
do your homework before going down that rabbit hole, think conservative .
ok now it's later , time to report . have tested the maf several times and have different readings . first readings were very erratic jumping from 1.5v to around 3 to 4v just idling , smocked me out of the carport in 20 seconds , end of that test . tried again to day and the reading was a lot more stable siting around 1.5 v to 1.65v but would not alter , other than the slight fluctuation it would not move ,. didn't smoke me out this time so i was able to be more pacific with the readings, so i am looking for a new MAF . have looked on line and the price varies from $120 to $300 but they look the same brand just a different supplier , is there any recommendations when purchasing a new MAF or are they all the same anyway.
yes it's a gems
i done my head lining a while ago , i pushed pins in the saggy spots just to stop the foam from getting everywhere and rubbed the soft foam of with a pot scrubbing brush .
when glueing the fabric on the apolstorer (family relative) stated that they use water based glues now as the solvent base glues attack the foam and they sag after a while? , will let you know if it's any different in about ten years or so, all good so far.
ok i am looking for another maf not an easy find at moment will keep looking, if anyone comes across one please let me know thanks.
yes i did , they have bosch ones only on the web site , i have not rang them but i will do .i do have a maf on loan at present , thanks for the offer David. i was going to buy a cheap chinese one but i think il go second hand if i can find one
dose the wobble appear after you hit a bump? (wheel shimming) your pistons would be the problem more than the pins . pins center the caliper, the pistons move in and out to give the disc clearance. a dragging brake would only pull on the steering wheel not cause a wobble . is it slight or violent wobble.
this all sounds a little familiar except its a bosch not a gems . fuel pressure is good at 50psi . the maf sensor controls your injection rate and the only fault i got was an o2 sensor high reading. you may have to make a lead to pin test the maf . good luck with it .
i did read somewhere that you can move the motor forward enough to do the flex plate without removing all together, i have not done this ?
i think most people have used some type of sealant at some point in life for what ever reason , i don't recommend it but that doesn't help when your miles from nowhere. if you do use it go for the silca one as it does not tend to clog every thing or just sit their like a lump of crap. the visual appearance of the silica is a white powder on the internal surface . it usually lasts around 12 to 18 months as an average , that's when it works that is and yes i have used it more than once . just remember its a temporary fix and you still have to repair it ?
i always thought that, how to topic, would come in handy more than once
go out and jump up and down on the tow bar and the front bumper and see how many times you can do that before it fights back, if it trampolines the shocks are done . at 19 years old i would just tho them , the valving in side the shock would be worn beyond usefulness. i other words they are most likely stuffed
i have replaced many bushes in my day i use the hacksaw method , push the guts out of the bush and cut with the hacksaw until it goes tight around the blade (the outer sleeve has collapsed on the blade) note do not push on the blade as it will curve and not cut straight , long smooth cuts with very little pressure
have watched other people do different ways press, weld, gas axe etc and do damage to the stage that they are welded up . bye the way if you are going to put it in a vise and flog it with a hammer , it better be a good vise bolted to a good bench .
and i still have that piece rolling around in my toolbox, used it many times.
if you dont have a hex socket but you have the keys just grind a line about 20mm from the end off the key put it in a vise and hit with hammer , it wil brake , then put it in the right socket and tape it , you now have a hex socket.
between the steering wheel and the steering box is a universal type joint , this is most likely your problem . get the wife to move the steering wheel and note the movement , it needs to be minimal, like millimeters . generally not serviceable just replaceable