if you dont have a hex socket but you have the keys just grind a line about 20mm from the end off the key put it in a vise and hit with hammer , it wil brake , then put it in the right socket and tape it , you now have a hex socket.
i replaced my o rings about 2 years or so ago , no leaks . i think when people do this they over tighten the screw that holds the o rings in and either crack the housing or damage the o rings , the system needs to be able to move with thermal expansion. that's my 2 cents worth
when it came to removing the screw that holds the o rings i drilled the head off it , took about 2 minutes . the screw will not undo as it had rusted from the back . with the dash out i removed the pipe work and removed the screw from the other side , easy. you dont have to remove the dash the pipes come out easily anyway
if he takes 10 thou of one head he will take it off the other or they will be unbalanced , if he removes the valves he will most likely reface them and do the seats on the heads as well, and fit new valve stem seals
as for the rocker gear if you dismantle you will see the hard metal on the shafts has most likely worn while the rockers are most likely good(its strange how the hard steels wear against the softer alloys) so i would replace the shafts before the rocker gear unless the rocker gear has wear then do it all.
how is the appearance of the inside of the motor , is it black and crusty or oily and clean
here in Australia braided lines are not allowed on registered vehicles only play toys . i replaced the rubber lines on my 64 beetle (buggy ) they where 50 years old . how long do you want them to last .
the braiding on the lines can wear and mark the rubber hose under it so its not a good idea in my book as the wear comes from the outside . thats my 2 cents worth , not worth the expense IMHO
you will want mains, big ends and a set of rings . thats the minimum . if their is no lip at the top of the bore then a light hone and another set of rings , if their is a lip then i recommend boring to clean up the bore. it will be outer round? this will require pistons and rings(over sized usually 20 thou)
crank grind if worn or ruffed up
cam bearings replaced have this done when being bored
if you not comfortable fitting the crank or any other part just ask the engine repairer how or if they can do it for you.
hope that helps, or a least confuses the crap out of you. its not hard , nothing money and time wont fix like all repairs, keep it clean.
outside of the stainless ends i dont see any real benefit . the problem with brake lines is usually the inside closes up from the reaction from the brake fluid more so the outer rubber deteriorating or the ends rust as you mentioned . its rare to have a rubber brake line fail unless its been stretched or fiscally damaged, and as mentioned you shouldn't crimp as that can pinch the rubber lines and cause a failure
at the end of the day its about personal choice and costs , are they affordable or expensive in comparison to standard lines?
between the steering wheel and the steering box is a universal type joint , this is most likely your problem . get the wife to move the steering wheel and note the movement , it needs to be minimal, like millimeters . generally not serviceable just replaceable
have borrowed a maf from a friend , all is working ok now so it is definitely the maf .
having another go at the rover today , having convinced myself its an air leak in the system (it starts and stops exactly like the supercharger problem on the other side , it has a video for those that are interested ) i removed the plenum box to clean and reseal. this has been done before.
my question is how important is the water heater on the inlet manifold mine was clogged with some crap, most likely radiator clog your system up in a bottle , can i just do away with the heater.
i have not found anything that was obvious as a leak but i will put it back together with a little more care than previous repairers.
so to test the coil you put the positive on the positive terminal and the negative in the coil output and you should get a reading around 13 k ohm, it shows nothing on the meter on any coil ,meter on 20k ohm positive to negative terminals results 1.0 1.2 on 200 ohms setting on meter
coil prices in aust are $112 from repco per coil , another 4x4 shop has them for $55 per coil. this is how ridiculous our prices are over here , you can't even buy the item as a piece, well i haven't found one yet but this the australian way, every item is a seperate item.
i dragged a 10 yarder truck out of the paddock up the drive way, the driver was not impressed about my driveway , its a little narrow a little sloppy a little muddy a little bit of wee and that was on entry. he dropped his load of logs off and on leaving got stuck on the rise out of the paddock so out with the rover and dragged it up the drive much to his surprise .i said to him that they are supposed to have a good traction control system to which his reply was you could see something working
PS my neighbor has ordered wood from the same person and he has not delivered , i think he thinks it's me.
define your idea off a recovery point. over xmas i watch 5 winches on one recovery point on a nissan patrol removing it from soft sand. i know that's a little extreme for most but i would not put a lot of trust in the light recovery points on the rover outside of miner tows
a tow ball is a no no , can you use the shackled hitch that goes inside the tow hitch on the car . if you have the goose neck type tow bar off coarse you can not use that. that will fix the rear .
land cruisers are notorious for blowing front diffs , just ask the owner to put it in low range and pop the clutch in reverse and that will do the diff in (collapsible spaces). with the spacers removed they are better but it is not a recommendation to pull in reverse approach with caution as sometimes there is no option just be careful its an FYI comment.
yes that's the hitch i mentioned in the first comment and then Richard said it was illegal over their so i left it at that as your rules are very different to ours
i was waiting for that comment , i don't look at the badge on the back i look under the bonnet and under the car , they all have motors , gearboxes and diffs etc and they all brake, they all have their achilles heal . my achilles heal is electronics but i am getting better thanks to sites like this . all my comments are based on life experiences not hear say. considering that i have old VW beetle powered buggies and range rovers need i say more
i know this doesn't apply to me but what is SORN
its relevant to all models with the small 8' diff in them ok i ment 8'' diff :)
import rules don't make sense halve the time , its just another ploy to get you to spend money on dumb ideas so its not worth the effort . some of the stories i've heard are outrages how a car was prept in japan sent to melbourne and held on the dock because it has some fluid of some description in. pay money to fix to have the car sent another 300kms to have it arrive with bits missing . the cars are sealed up to prevent this from happening so any excuse to get into it and no body knows anything about it.
wow if i ever go to europe i will have to brush up on some rules and regulations , you seem to have them for everything, and with the separation from the eu i doubt if its going to get any better. we just park them in the paddock and wait for the registry to send a letter for you to hand in the plates and even then just sign a stat deck stating they where lost and then screw them to the side of the shed . most people just ignore the letter
I went to register one off my buggies for RV rego (off road rego) after 3 year restore to have one lady at the rego office to say you was supposed to hand the plates in (with a stern look on her face) to have the next bloke just look at me and say do you want to keep your plates it will save you $40 dollars for the new plates.