when it came to removing the screw that holds the o rings i drilled the head off it , took about 2 minutes . the screw will not undo as it had rusted from the back . with the dash out i removed the pipe work and removed the screw from the other side , easy. you dont have to remove the dash the pipes come out easily anyway
if he takes 10 thou of one head he will take it off the other or they will be unbalanced , if he removes the valves he will most likely reface them and do the seats on the heads as well, and fit new valve stem seals
as for the rocker gear if you dismantle you will see the hard metal on the shafts has most likely worn while the rockers are most likely good(its strange how the hard steels wear against the softer alloys) so i would replace the shafts before the rocker gear unless the rocker gear has wear then do it all.
how is the appearance of the inside of the motor , is it black and crusty or oily and clean
here in Australia braided lines are not allowed on registered vehicles only play toys . i replaced the rubber lines on my 64 beetle (buggy ) they where 50 years old . how long do you want them to last .
the braiding on the lines can wear and mark the rubber hose under it so its not a good idea in my book as the wear comes from the outside . thats my 2 cents worth , not worth the expense IMHO
you will want mains, big ends and a set of rings . thats the minimum . if their is no lip at the top of the bore then a light hone and another set of rings , if their is a lip then i recommend boring to clean up the bore. it will be outer round? this will require pistons and rings(over sized usually 20 thou)
crank grind if worn or ruffed up
cam bearings replaced have this done when being bored
if you not comfortable fitting the crank or any other part just ask the engine repairer how or if they can do it for you.
hope that helps, or a least confuses the crap out of you. its not hard , nothing money and time wont fix like all repairs, keep it clean.
outside of the stainless ends i dont see any real benefit . the problem with brake lines is usually the inside closes up from the reaction from the brake fluid more so the outer rubber deteriorating or the ends rust as you mentioned . its rare to have a rubber brake line fail unless its been stretched or fiscally damaged, and as mentioned you shouldn't crimp as that can pinch the rubber lines and cause a failure
at the end of the day its about personal choice and costs , are they affordable or expensive in comparison to standard lines?
between the steering wheel and the steering box is a universal type joint , this is most likely your problem . get the wife to move the steering wheel and note the movement , it needs to be minimal, like millimeters . generally not serviceable just replaceable
have borrowed a maf from a friend , all is working ok now so it is definitely the maf .
having another go at the rover today , having convinced myself its an air leak in the system (it starts and stops exactly like the supercharger problem on the other side , it has a video for those that are interested ) i removed the plenum box to clean and reseal. this has been done before.
my question is how important is the water heater on the inlet manifold mine was clogged with some crap, most likely radiator clog your system up in a bottle , can i just do away with the heater.
i have not found anything that was obvious as a leak but i will put it back together with a little more care than previous repairers.
so to test the coil you put the positive on the positive terminal and the negative in the coil output and you should get a reading around 13 k ohm, it shows nothing on the meter on any coil ,meter on 20k ohm positive to negative terminals results 1.0 1.2 on 200 ohms setting on meter
coil prices in aust are $112 from repco per coil , another 4x4 shop has them for $55 per coil. this is how ridiculous our prices are over here , you can't even buy the item as a piece, well i haven't found one yet but this the australian way, every item is a seperate item.
have removed the coils either i am testing it wrong or all the coils are stuffed, is that a thing with these coils ,is their any difference between the cheap and expensive ones. any recommendations on types or brands
there's a tool for that (helicoil 5334-14 sav a thread ) this tool is 14mm/1.25 pitch not shore its the correct thread size but will give you the idea . if you require to do this put piston as close to top as possible and use grease to collect as much of the cut material as possible , a piece of wire with grease on it can be used to collect any material in the bore . cut 2 threads and remove tool and clean reapply grease and do agian untill all threads cut , its not a hard job just time consuming
no not quite there yet , those pressures are at idle, the correct pressures are 36psi at idle 38psi at run give or take 2psi only , now factor in fuel use and that pressure will drop, the pump has to supply at least 2L of fuel at the correct pressure to supply the motor under full load
PS quick test stand where you can hear the pump and have some one clamp of the fuel line slowly , this will make the pump squeal under the load or it will race as the pump cavitates ,fuel pumps are positive displacement so dont close it off any longer than a couple of seconds, if you can close of the line and the pump continues to run, its stuffed. IMHO
it depends on how far you want to go , cam, lifters or tappets as some may say ? timing chain and sprocket , maybe the oil pump, its there , also check the top end rocker gear for wear usually the under sides of the shafts wears. check the cam bearings but doubt if they will need replacing
PS i thought they were just a press fit babbitt bearing not line bored, who would have guessed.
my experience with bearings in these cars are the sooner you replace them the easier it is to do, if left to fail completely it will require a good size press to remove if you do it now so to speak you could do it with a small press ( i done mine with a 6 ton press)
no you can not re grease them, as they are sealed and the seals are basically destroyed when removed
as the ad says "just do it"
could be lots of things but i doubt it's the radius arms , when the bushing goes soft they are generally steering issues , the feeling of drifting around corners having to correct steering in corners . is detectable by simply kicking the front wheels from back to front or front to back , they will move more than they should . having said that that doesn't mean its not them as they may be worn beyond the soft rubber stage, most likely a worn ball joint
the drain from the ac might be blocked
you have a real problem their . i personally would not drive it . don't be frightened to pull an auto to bits , its not that difficult their is less in an auto than a manual IMHO . just read rave for instruction, basically remove valve body and open the case, 100% dismantle and clean everything spotless . do not use fluffy rags no lint it gets in the valve body and jams up the valves. it must be spotless on reassembly
ps the plates are fibrous like clutch plates in a motorbike clutch, not grey chunky bits of aluminium and the black stuff is metal
it also may be cost prohibitive to repair , you may need to find a replacement .
pss and your oil is also burnt , so there is something rubbing on something it shouldn't be. sorry it's not what you wanted to hear
no i haven't dismantled an ac pump but i believe the seals are teflon similar to those in power steering pumps
i have axle nuts on VW hubs 300 ft lb, i don't own a tension wrench for that i just use an extension bar on the strongarm . you will need a 3/4'' drive at least as i have damaged 2 1/2'' drive ratchets on the axle nuts on the rover. a 4' bar will do the trick IMHO
mostly castrol products . our machine shop told me that there is better oils, as a comment one day , i have handed him 2 cranks to measure up for machining to have him hand them back with the comment , that's a sign of good oil for you.