rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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no , Martin Cordwell "left lane trucking", he's the one that done the LS conversion in USA . is he the one you are referencing in your comment .
Marty did help with the electrical side of things along with others that had input.

i didn't know Martin was a brit, learn something new every day.

you can do better than 300hp but you are still stuck with the hp 24 transmission. the 4L60e can be modified up to a 4L75e which is almost unbreakable. as the old saying goes , their is no substitute for cubic inches.

their is an LS swap on the other side if that's what you want to do . its all documented, so easier than going it alone, all you need is the shaft that connects the 4l60e transmission to the transfer case. technically you could put a 300+ kw ls3 in if its power you want . the question is how much do you want to spend.

i do know of a person that rebuilt a transmission and used the wrong rags when cleaning and wiping everything down . the rags left lint in major parts of the transmission and it all balled up and blocked of major capillaries in the valve body and blocked up the valves so the transmission failed within hours of the rebuild. maybe this is a similar issue where something has blocked off the small capillaries in the valve body . even thou the solenoids are operating the oil flow is not flowing by the sounds of it , could be a piece of clutch plate or rubbish that is lodged in the wrong place or similar giving an open flow of the oil . something to think about .

hi Richard , i just down loaded your rave copy from the downloads at the top of the page so i now have a copy for the l322 , thanks.

thanks Richard that's exactly what i need
my copy of rave only has the p38 on it . i used to have the full copy but when i found the one that only covered the p38 i somehow lost the other copy , but if i am going to continue to work on my friends l322 i may need t find it or get another full copy of rave .

i am looking for the wiring diagram for the steering wheel adjustor on the l 322, 2002 model, that's the electronic adjustor that moves the wheel in and out , up and down . i have checked the fuses, that's no 20 and 23 all good and i can hear the ecu clicking when i turn on the key on also the seat still moves as they are associated together with the steering wheel adjustment . if anyone has any info on this it would be very appreciated, thanks in advance .

mine may not have a sunroof but it still has a water leak in the top left hand side of the roof, i think that's where it is .

mine is a base model , no sunroof. it's a 97 model that had the se lettering removed from it before it was sold , i think it had something to do with the next model why it was removed.
ps i have 4 others that have sunroofs .

you could just by pass it until you have time to do it, either way .

will it go if you put it in gear manually , if so you have most likely inverted the sprag clutch and that's a gearbox removal job.

it could be a worn key , my wife's car was doing something similar the lock smith cut a new key and all was good .

i dont know about your insurances over there but here in Australia we have bomb insurance and thats what i cover my vehicle with , basically it only covers the other party not me . it's about 150+ odd dollars for the year and you get 20 million cover for the other side , but if you want to your vehicle on top of that , say another 10.000 to cover your car its open slather as to how much that will cost . it can easily be 3 4 5+ times the cost for what amounts to a small percentage of the actual cover on the policy . insurance is a blatant rip off in my opinion . if you have a new car that would be different , also the cost would be different to .

it could also be a bit of water in the tank or just old fuel if you haven't used petrol for a while, a cup of metho will remove the water and 20 liters of petrol is all i would mix with the cleaner fluid. might pay to run on petrol once in a while just to keep the system clean , the old rule of, if you don't use it you loose it
PS i stopped using standard fuel 91 octain here in Aust because it is made up with all sorts of rubbish where the premium 95 octain is more stable and causes a lot less issues eg blocked injectors from particulates in the fuels, our diesel is notorious for it ,i recommend fitting better after market filter system or it's a $5000 injector replacement bill if you like to buy supermarket diesel. todays fuels are rubbish , no other way of explaining it .

if you want to do it in car you can get injector cleaners in a bottle from the auto stores, the biggest decision to make is how much you want to spend on them as some are very cheap and some aren't but you get what you pay for , gas has wax in it so one that dissolves wax would be hi on my list . even a liter or two of diesel can help as it's the base ingredient in the cleaners is diesel (defiantly smells like diesel IMO) they say add to full tank of fuel , i put it in as least amount as it's more concentrated and works faster. other way is to remove the injectors and use a 9volt battery and some carbi cleaner to flush them out little bit more work but better result . use a puss button as the coils in the injectors only need pulsing , dont open for long periods as it will burn them out, piece of tube and a syringe full of cleaner , you know where this is going

i looked at the pics of the gaskets and i did not see any thing wrong with them, sorry.

sounds like uni joints , you will have remove the shaft to check properly , also go for a small drive just to confirm this , put a bolt in the brake housing or it might drift off.

when my MAF died it would not run for any reason. if the ecu picks up that it has a bad MAF it will automatically shut down when rpm is over 500 rpm, i could make it keep running if i pumped the throttle heaps but it would smoke out the shed in seconds . to determine that it was the maf i made up a lead that i could prod with the multimeter to get a proper reading from it . if you do this be careful , if you put power to the wrong spot you will burn out the ecu

grab a long screw driver and have a prod around the engine ,just put it on the surfaces and on your ear , you will hear any noise that is in there. you may need someone to rev the engine for you .