it could also be a bit of water in the tank or just old fuel if you haven't used petrol for a while, a cup of metho will remove the water and 20 liters of petrol is all i would mix with the cleaner fluid. might pay to run on petrol once in a while just to keep the system clean , the old rule of, if you don't use it you loose it
PS i stopped using standard fuel 91 octain here in Aust because it is made up with all sorts of rubbish where the premium 95 octain is more stable and causes a lot less issues eg blocked injectors from particulates in the fuels, our diesel is notorious for it ,i recommend fitting better after market filter system or it's a $5000 injector replacement bill if you like to buy supermarket diesel. todays fuels are rubbish , no other way of explaining it .

if you want to do it in car you can get injector cleaners in a bottle from the auto stores, the biggest decision to make is how much you want to spend on them as some are very cheap and some aren't but you get what you pay for , gas has wax in it so one that dissolves wax would be hi on my list . even a liter or two of diesel can help as it's the base ingredient in the cleaners is diesel (defiantly smells like diesel IMO) they say add to full tank of fuel , i put it in as least amount as it's more concentrated and works faster. other way is to remove the injectors and use a 9volt battery and some carbi cleaner to flush them out little bit more work but better result . use a puss button as the coils in the injectors only need pulsing , dont open for long periods as it will burn them out, piece of tube and a syringe full of cleaner , you know where this is going

i looked at the pics of the gaskets and i did not see any thing wrong with them, sorry.

sounds like uni joints , you will have remove the shaft to check properly , also go for a small drive just to confirm this , put a bolt in the brake housing or it might drift off.

when my MAF died it would not run for any reason. if the ecu picks up that it has a bad MAF it will automatically shut down when rpm is over 500 rpm, i could make it keep running if i pumped the throttle heaps but it would smoke out the shed in seconds . to determine that it was the maf i made up a lead that i could prod with the multimeter to get a proper reading from it . if you do this be careful , if you put power to the wrong spot you will burn out the ecu

grab a long screw driver and have a prod around the engine ,just put it on the surfaces and on your ear , you will hear any noise that is in there. you may need someone to rev the engine for you .

if all the followers are as good as the ones you have pics on then it's all good . if you want to lift them out and visually inspect them and they are all as good then things are good, put them back where they came from of cause , no scuffs on the cam lobs then that's good to .

just an update , so far so good no problems, all is still working as it should , lets hope it lasts. 😊

thanks for that Richard , i didn't think to check the fuse rating. that will make the job easier than i thought .

i have acquired a portable fridge freezer unit that draws 6.8 amps when running , is this to much of a draw for me to use the other trailer power outlet or am i better off to run a dedicated line for it .

today i replaced the TPS with a second hand one to see if it makes a difference. the problem was getting worse as it was revving up t 2000rpm and the nano was reading 65280 ,same as last time ,lets see if anything changes, or stops changing , depending on how you see it.

talking about hissy fits , i parked mine outside for a couple of days while i fixed a friends car and now the intermittent wipers aren't working properly and when i opened the glove box to get the nano out it was damp , not happy , that's me not the car.

thumbs up.

i put the nano on today and read the readings before resetting the values , the reading where all reasonably the same except the idle speed reference, it was reading 65280 which is a little hi considering it was only doing about 1600rpm , after resetting it read 742rpm which is what it is suppose to read
the curent throttle pos votage was .69
the stored voltage was .47
after reset
current throttle pos volts .58
stored voltage pos was .58
are these the reading you where referencing Richard.

i generally drill a small hole in thermostats for that exact reason . started doing it on water cooled motor bikes to bleed air out . as Richard said they used to come with a small spring loaded relief valve built in .

thanks for that Leolito, i do have another lever, stork to replace it with , i will start there. thanks .

the issue with the idle is it keeps revving up to around 1500rpm and stays there . ive reset the adaptive values and it corrects it's self until it cools down or is left over night then reset values again and all is good until next time . i have done this 5 or 6 times and i think if it was a reset issue it should have corrected it self by now as it started after i replaced my o2 sensors. the o2 sensors are reading correctly and all is working ok when it's reset, it just keeps going back to revving for some reason , has anyone else had a similar issue . thanks in advance.

my intermittent wipers are only doing one speed , is this a switch issue or a relay issue . i had a look at rave and the potentiometer is in the stork (switch)on the steering column and there is a relay in the engine fuse box , which is the most likely culprit here or is it something completely different. thanks in advance.

ok so i tackled this issue yesterday , looked at several options from cutting the lock to destroying the door card. in the end i had the cutters in hand and couldn't quit get the cutters around the door card as they are quit thick so i just popped the card of around the window and ripped it off and low and behold it came off in one piece, I'm putting it down to dumb luck, so to do this you have to remove the 4 screws that hold on the panel and remove the seat , pop of the clips at the top of the window grab the panel in the middle and just pull, pull it out enough to unclip the inside door handle then pull some more and unclip all the wiring at the top of the door card and then keep pulling until it comes off. i broke of several plastic mounts and plastic yellow clips, also separated the plastic piece across the top of the door card, all of this was simply glued back together with contact cement glue. the original glue was just hot glue , i just glued it on without to much cleaning just cut of the the daggy bits. as for the lock issue i think it was an assembly problem from owner who had replaced the outer cable for outside handle , i dont think it was seated properly in the lock , so all is good now .
hope this is helpful if some one else has this issue .

a had a quick look at that this morning and it might just be possible , it may be the less destructive way as removing the door card may not give me access to the lock anyway.