grab a long screw driver and have a prod around the engine ,just put it on the surfaces and on your ear , you will hear any noise that is in there. you may need someone to rev the engine for you .

if all the followers are as good as the ones you have pics on then it's all good . if you want to lift them out and visually inspect them and they are all as good then things are good, put them back where they came from of cause , no scuffs on the cam lobs then that's good to .

just an update , so far so good no problems, all is still working as it should , lets hope it lasts. 😊

thanks for that Richard , i didn't think to check the fuse rating. that will make the job easier than i thought .

i have acquired a portable fridge freezer unit that draws 6.8 amps when running , is this to much of a draw for me to use the other trailer power outlet or am i better off to run a dedicated line for it .

today i replaced the TPS with a second hand one to see if it makes a difference. the problem was getting worse as it was revving up t 2000rpm and the nano was reading 65280 ,same as last time ,lets see if anything changes, or stops changing , depending on how you see it.

talking about hissy fits , i parked mine outside for a couple of days while i fixed a friends car and now the intermittent wipers aren't working properly and when i opened the glove box to get the nano out it was damp , not happy , that's me not the car.

thumbs up.

i put the nano on today and read the readings before resetting the values , the reading where all reasonably the same except the idle speed reference, it was reading 65280 which is a little hi considering it was only doing about 1600rpm , after resetting it read 742rpm which is what it is suppose to read
the curent throttle pos votage was .69
the stored voltage was .47
after reset
current throttle pos volts .58
stored voltage pos was .58
are these the reading you where referencing Richard.

i generally drill a small hole in thermostats for that exact reason . started doing it on water cooled motor bikes to bleed air out . as Richard said they used to come with a small spring loaded relief valve built in .

thanks for that Leolito, i do have another lever, stork to replace it with , i will start there. thanks .

the issue with the idle is it keeps revving up to around 1500rpm and stays there . ive reset the adaptive values and it corrects it's self until it cools down or is left over night then reset values again and all is good until next time . i have done this 5 or 6 times and i think if it was a reset issue it should have corrected it self by now as it started after i replaced my o2 sensors. the o2 sensors are reading correctly and all is working ok when it's reset, it just keeps going back to revving for some reason , has anyone else had a similar issue . thanks in advance.

my intermittent wipers are only doing one speed , is this a switch issue or a relay issue . i had a look at rave and the potentiometer is in the stork (switch)on the steering column and there is a relay in the engine fuse box , which is the most likely culprit here or is it something completely different. thanks in advance.

ok so i tackled this issue yesterday , looked at several options from cutting the lock to destroying the door card. in the end i had the cutters in hand and couldn't quit get the cutters around the door card as they are quit thick so i just popped the card of around the window and ripped it off and low and behold it came off in one piece, I'm putting it down to dumb luck, so to do this you have to remove the 4 screws that hold on the panel and remove the seat , pop of the clips at the top of the window grab the panel in the middle and just pull, pull it out enough to unclip the inside door handle then pull some more and unclip all the wiring at the top of the door card and then keep pulling until it comes off. i broke of several plastic mounts and plastic yellow clips, also separated the plastic piece across the top of the door card, all of this was simply glued back together with contact cement glue. the original glue was just hot glue , i just glued it on without to much cleaning just cut of the the daggy bits. as for the lock issue i think it was an assembly problem from owner who had replaced the outer cable for outside handle , i dont think it was seated properly in the lock , so all is good now .
hope this is helpful if some one else has this issue .

a had a quick look at that this morning and it might just be possible , it may be the less destructive way as removing the door card may not give me access to the lock anyway.

The front passenger door will not open from the inside handle or the outside handle, when you open from the inside the actual door lock unlocks but the door dose not open . i have tried to remove door card but that's not possible unless you destroy the card as it is behind the rubber door seal. i am not familiar with this model as it's not my car , the owner has asked me to look at it for him as no one will touch it, eg it's a range rover . if ripping the door card is how it's done then i will do that , dose anyone have a better way of doing this, open to any ideas.

Hi Chasman, just for interest i have heard off this RF interference issues being caused by other electronic gadgets , eg weather stations and wireless security window locks etc. the problem seems to be when the battery's go flat and the units send out a low battery signal , it's these signals that interfere with cars, cause starting issues and the drain problem like you are having , even in modern cars today, so if you have any of these check the battery's aren't flat or ask the neighbors if they have any with flat battery signals . if this is a new issue , just started doing it for no reason it may be causing your issue, just an FYI .

i just replaced my sensors , they came out very easy with a 17mm open end spanner, gems. the usual would apply , check that the plugs are not dirty or corroded or damage to warring. i think you can check the heating circuit on the sensor with a multi meter . 5 minute job if it just undoes.

a compression test on the lean side might be helpful or do all off them if you get suspect readings.

fuel pressures should not fluctuate ever, you have about 2% fluctuation gap only. your pressures should be stable at all times and have a small decrease at idle only , about 3psi . if they are swinging then you have an unstable fuel supply , dose it surge or not wanting to rev at times
PS i do not work on super charged vehicles but i would expect the fuel pressure to be stable still even with a pressurized manifold.