have you used them, how did they last, are they worth the extra dollars, is the question im asking.
the write up on the uni's stated there is a difference in the roller size which increases the surface area within the uni.

remove from diff first use a 3/8 socket and a flexi coupling, also tie up tail shaft so you dont have to do two things at once. this is how i do it.
PS you should mark everything before removing anything.

i have uni problems too, but mine are because the rover is lifted. i have found another uni that they use in lifted disco's, it's supposed to be better as it has bigger internals, it's all to do with how its machined apparently
Gkn Hs 18Mmj 75/27
TVC10001 OHD
i haven't tried them but was going to order 2 just to see if they are any good, 65$ each plus postage in Australia. has anyone ever used these or have another brand that has good longevity previous brand was Hardy Spicer 30$ ea
https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/au/tvc100010g-universal-joint-hd-grsr-gkn-hs-18mm-j-75x27.html

i can understand your comment about carburetors, and your frustration with fuel injection, but i can tell you that today's fuels doesn't run very well with carbies , and todays fuel injection systems are to complicated for their our good. this is because of the push for more enviro-friendly cars. if your cars were tuned for power and economy, their would-be huge increase in power and economy, around 20% in fact, and they tell you its for your benefit, i think its a waste of fuel and money and makes cars over priced and getting worse.
when you fit fuel injection on to a type 1 VW engine you can see the benefits (60-year-old motor) but when you are trying to fix modern day injection systems it's frustrating to say the least. easy to see why people just walk away from them. but what's life without a little challenge.

my understanding of the diffs is the 4.0l had the two pinion diffs and the 4,6 had a 4 pinion as a rear diff. this changed when they raced the rover in the Dacar race. when they modified the p38 for the race. whoever raced the p38 changed the front end with better axles and a 4-pinion diff in the front as the previous model suffered serious failure the previously year, and rover adapted the changes in the next model, which was the thor model, so the front ends are stronger, unfortunately they still broke the front ends .
PS if you want a 4 pinion diff in the front just obtain a 4 pinion and take the diff carrier out and fit it to the front diff. you do not have to reset the diff as you have not moved the pinion in the diff, just reset the backlash and all should be good.
pss if i broke a diff carrier for whatever reason and needed another i would buy a lock diff as this is the part they replace, which would give you a 4-pinion lock diff

happy 10th anniversary, i hope we all get to see another one.

happy new year to all at the pub, wishing all a good year and happy times.

there is a tool for lubing cables, i brought mine from a motor bike shop. i t just clamps around the cable end and you use wd 40 as lube. has a little hole in it to put the small pipe in that comes with the wd 40. they work a treat.

just like to wish everyone at the pub, merry Christmas from Australia. happy travels over the festive season and good health, we all need that one. (;

yes the 29th , i should have looked, the last time we did this it was evening their and morning here, so it would be the 30th for me. today is Christmas day and you have to wait till tomorrow, always playing catchup.

was we going to do a video call or whatever they call it today on the 27th, apparently my new, old laptop has a built-in camera, just asking.

the mattress would have fitted on the roof, couple of ratchet straps through the windows, easy. i once saw a cop put a sheet of reo " thats 20' by 8' directly on his car, tied it down and drove away, i bet he never done that again after he saw the damage. i even said it would damage his car, he didn't seem to care, might have been his wife's car.

it doesn't feel like ten years, i don't even think like i have owned the p38 for that long, it's gone very quickly. when i first purchased the rover and found the other R/R site it was really good, all the info that anyone could imagine and then it disappeared because of the stupidity of the owners, then Richard brought this site to my attention and i haven't really looked back. i have had a couple of , where are you messages from the other side but have ignored them basically. Its 8am here in Australia, if you were going to have a zoom meeting what time would that be here. i will look into getting a bloody camera that works and try and join in.

i haven't owned a boat for 30 years, never had much to do with inboards either, but i can remember they ran a lot cooler than car engines, this may have changed with today's engine set ups, let's face it, nothing is the same as yesterday's stuff. my point being if they are cool runners, you will need a thinner oil than usual. what is the oil pressure and the temperature of the engine when at running temps.

thanks for the replies, the reason i asked if the commutator could be replaced is because it looks like a brass ring is just pressed on the shaft, that's without removing it for a better look that is. i did notice that it crossed referenced with a ford alternator for the regulator but i haven't looked further at the moment. thanks again.

i had , what i thought was a parasitic drain on the battery to find out it was a stuffed battery. the issue started with the flat battery the day after using the car, so i charged the battery and then went back after it sat for three days to find another flat battery. as i hadn't connected the battery, it was obvious what was happening, off to the shop , new battery and all good, no that's not how it works. we all know that nothing is that simple, after connecting up the new battery i decided to just check that the alternator was working and yes it was working, it was working to much actually, charging at 16.9volts," i think this is the reason for the battery dying " even i know that's not right. now the real issue, i have 3 spare alternators or should i say had. the issue with the alternators is the brushes, and the bearings, but that's another day,
where the brushes rub on the rotor in the alternator on the brass piece on the shaft had very large grooves on the outside brush, this was on 2 of the alternators and that brush had all but worn away, whilst the other was fine. is this piece replaceable or is it the hole rotor that has to be replaced, also is the regulator still available as i don't seem to be able to find them in Australia. so as a warning if you have alternators as spares remove the back cover and visually look at the brushes and the area that they contact.

mine does this at times, i think its got sand in it and it needs blowing out with the compressor. i have had similar things happen with other vehicles and it's usually just crap in the slot, small coins are a good find.

Nail trick won't work on this as the nuts are too mullered but something to remember.
Thanks
it didn't work because you never tried it, think about what it does.

hi Clive, i have at times used small nails, you cut off the head of the nail and insert them into every second groove in the socket, pointy end out, hold in place with a bit of grease and tap the socket over the nut. the nails are small, 1 mm. also just as a note, cheap impact driver sets are thinner than expensive ones and only have 6 sides so are good on stripped bolts and because they are thin, they fit into the recessed holes at times.

Nasser wrote:

Hello my friends, I am happy to join. I own a 1999 P38 Range Rover. I replaced the engine and transmission to LS. Can you help me? I want to run the ECU of the LS engine without going through BECM because I do not need it in the LS engine at all.

hello Nasser, we need more info about what it is you have done. have you used one of the shafts that Martin on the other side developed for his gems p38. have you read his write ups and how he went about doing the swap, if so how far are you into the swap. his swap was on a gems variant and yours is the bosch version, which is electronically different
PS if you are going to run with this it might be wise to start a thread on this only.