Just to follow up on this, nothing to do with my little escapade!

Sometimes when I start the car up after it has been laid up for a day or two, After the car has settled a little bit but still level and very near its normal height. The pump doesn't seem to activate straight away. The normal height light flashes as you would expect but sometimes it takes several minutes before the pump kicks in which is strange and then seems to work fine until the next time.

Any thoughts why it doesn't work instantaneously? I'm sure are used to.

DavidAll wrote:

You are welcome to use my Nanocom. I bought it on Ebay a couple of months ago and haven't even tried setting it up yet. I won't be needing it for a while yet. It looks a bit of a palaver but perhaps Richard can advise.

Thank you David.

And finally!

Now that I've driven a few hundred miles with the Bilsteins fitted, I agree with I believe Richard who said that the original Boge dampers give a better ride. The ride is better regarding rolling, pitching and general togetherness with the Billy's but for actual comfort and compliance, the Boge dampers are superior.

In a world where we want everything, sadly one product does not do everything. Fit the Billys for a better ride as far as handling is concerned but if that doesn't float your boat and you just want superior comfort then stick with the original Boge dampers.

All sorted now! Cost me 6 of our best eggs......

Spoke to Bearmach, they are going to take back the code reader as they cannot supply the additional dongle which will read all the suspension codes.

Seeing that I'm starting from scratch, what is the best or the most useful code reader that I can get hold of? Bearmach can supply a Nanocom 07 but that is £450!

It is a rip-off.

It is a very nice piece of kit but they should sell it to do everything not just 90% of the car with the little add-on that costs a bit more!

I have the hawkeyed which is excellent but not the blue adapter for the EAS

Probably not amazing that they don’t give the adapter with the Hawkeye code reader. You need to spend another 40 quid + or thereabouts for the adapter.

And, boll@cks!

Best drop the tyres to 15 psi!

Thanks for that. I thought as much!!

If I was home, I have two friendly Land Rover independents within a mile but sadly I am about 25 miles away.

I fo have the Bearmach reader but not the EAS dongle as they weren’t available!

Stupid, stupid, stupid!

Loaded a large door into the back of the car and thought it would be fine to drive a few miles with the lower tailgate down.

Warning on dashboard stating that the tail gate was open so I thought that wasn’t a problem.

Suspension lights were flashing by the rocker switch as it couldn’t settle on normal ride height with tail gate open and I thought that was okay.

Unloaded door, started car up with all doors shut and now all the lights are flashing next to the rocker switch. Message on dash says maximum 35 miles an hour.

How do I clear this and get back to normal please?

New Osram bulbs fitted.

Definitely better. Main beam really good but dipped still leaves a lot to be desired. I realise that It is the design of the light fitting itself but compared even to our dogsbody 13 year old Rav4, it is pretty poor.

I wouldn't rule out a problem with the actual block itself. It may be that combustion is escaping into the water system.

I had this once on a 4.0 Disco which culminated in the top radiator hose exploding with the excessive pressure! That was some years ago, a slipped liner from memory.

The second time I had this was on my 5.5 RV8 TVR. That was a split in the aluminium block behind the liner.

I don't like the sound of your stretch bolt going elastic, (which I doubt, more likely thread started pulling as said).

I don't envy you. I'll be tempted to take the engine out, strip it down and have the block tested. If it is a long-term keeper then have it top hatted and rebuild from there.

Will do when it stops raining but I believe they are in excellent condition as the car has been well looked after.

Thanks for that. I will check tomorrow.

Ordered. Thank you.

Came back last night using all unlit country lanes. My, the lights are awful!

Is there a way to improve this?

My P38 has heated seats which do not work.

When I switch them on I can hear a relay clicking under the dash so I assume wiring on that side is all okay. Is it a common problem that these fail?

The remainder of the car is in very good condition and apart from the satnav everything works!

Now that winter is upon us, almost, I would like to fix this if I can. I assume that it may well be the heating elements that have failed. Is this a common fault or could it be something else?

Thanks.

In fact, it could be as simple as one of the hoses has come up its connection.

You would have removed the actuator to remove the valve block, (if you removed the valve block).

When I removed my actuator I found one of the hoses split where it pushes onto the tee piece.

My cruise control was very slow to engage but now works perfectly since I cut the hose back and reconnected it.

I converted mine back to air suspension a couple of months ago.

All went very well and as said, compressing the springs and removing them was a little awkward but otherwise an easy job. All easily completed in a lazy day. Mine had everything left in place apart from the air springs which were discarded. I removed the little wiring loom that was plugged in under the drivers seat and checked all connections everywhere also I thought! When everything was connected up, I started the car and a myriad of messages came up and the car remained on the stops.

After a lot of head scratching, checking all connections and wondering why the pump didn't run I found the idiots guide to P38 ais suspension on the web and noticed that the EAS ECU was under the passenger seat. I removed the trim and exposed this to find that the multipin connector had been disconnected from the ECU. I connected this, started the car and within a very short while the car rose majestically to its normal height.

Good luck with yours.