Thanks guys, I was being lazy and trying to avoid pulling the cheeks off and HEVAC out for the millionth time :o) but that may be next step... This eve i disconnected the evap sensor - open circuit goes to -40 bridging the connectors defaults to +80 - neither reading is much good to me, so I plugged it back in.
The heater core sensor was wiggled, no change, reads about 0, despite the pipe being too hot to touch. Unplugged and the "reading" is -20, when I bridge the contacts on the plug the default setting goes to +80. I figure that latter reading more closely reflects what the heater core temp would read when the vehicle is running, so I'll drive with the bridge in for a few days and see if the AC settles and kicks in. Sounds like the heater core sensor is mis-reading, but equally I'm not sure that replacing it is going to solve the no air con situation.
At 12V the clutch is definitely working, and immediately chills the cabin, so after I get an air con grant Ican definitely check the voltage drop (if any), I already checked the earth point for the condenser ground wire, and no probs. Last summer (ie after I bought it) the clutch wasn't working, so I removed it, wiped some of the crud off and it started working again, so gap seems ok, if marginal
Tomorrow I'll send 12V to the input side of the trinary switch and confirm that is functioning ok given that there seems to be sufficient pressure in the air con for cooling. And then I'll pull the HEVAC unit and see what I have on the request/ grant wires
Assuming I have air con request, but no grant, then that means some other condition is not being met at the ECM- has anyone stumbled across a list of what those are?
I have 3 radius arm bushes on my bench now one generic, one Bearmach, one Borg and Beck. The plastic outer of each looks slightly different, but have the same dimensions to +/- 0.5mm, that said the generic and B&B branded ones are both embossed 5003 H on the rubber. Both B&B and the generic one have an alloy centre tube (coming in at 18g). Bearmach uses steel (25g). Given that someone crushed the centre tube of one of the bushes on torquing up, is steel the way to go? Are the genuine ones steel or ali centre tubes? I may just splurge on 4 genuines, but was curious enough to want to know the difference.
Just read Rutland's post about wiggling the heater core sensor, I'll give that a go too
98 GEMS
So O rings done, I've now got full cabin heat, but the UK weather just went tropical (for a few days, anyway), so now I need the AC... Last summer the AC worked, after I replaced the condenser and added a 2nd hand drier.
This year the AC is not playing. The compressor works, when I give 12v and and earth direct to the connector (C166P) the clutch engages, and the cabin chills as expected. In normal use though nanocom says AC grant "no", but as far as I'm aware the nanocom doesn't also tell me the AC request status - if I could find that in the nanocom menu somewhere it could help with diagnosis, and if I could force it on that would be even better. I also need to disconnect the BECM diagnostic connector as it apparently interferes with the Nanocom's interrogation of the HEVAC ECU - I haven't done that yet - but I don't know if that wd screw up the readings or not.
It crossed my mind that one of the many sensors may be feeding in rubbish data to the HEVAC ECU.
I got ambient 12.7 (fine)
aspirator 18.2 (fine)
evaporator 16.2 (ok, just replaced with a 2nd hand one off a freelander, but same Valeo part number)
heater core temp -0.20 (although it climbs once I've turned up to Hi)
Is the heater core temp way off - seems so. What range should it read in? If that were the case is that going to explain why the AC is not being requested? I recently did the o rings so cd have disturbed something on the sensor
In general any HEVAC faults I have had in the last year are clearable. I have a rare "compressor open circuit" message (but I had that last year too, when the AC was working) and the right blend motor needs fixing at some point. I have a periodic service book come up, but I think it's usually triggered by me asking the jammed blend motor to move (ie by pressing the "wrong" button to adjust the air vent flow)
Seems my first job is to get to air con grant "yes" and then I can start testing stuff... And maybe pressure test the aircon system
I'm planning to use a threaded bar and my favourite piece of kit a DeWalt impact gun :o) Worst case I'll end up at the local garage and borrow their press, I couldn't quite bring myself to buy a press, yet...
Thanks for the welcome gents - esp Chris/ Richard who have already helped me loads. Re the poly bushes, they need to come out one way or another, I'm getting fairly regular death wobbles 55-70. I read the posts here on poly bush removal (naively I had thought they wd be a piece of p***), and reckon I may use some plumbers freezing spray to see if that makes the bushes drillable (with a hole saw). I am brimming with optimism and confidence !!
Thanks Morat - i wasn't very clear - I have orange poly _currently_and yes, no way in hell am I installing poly going forward... I will post on the air con once I've done a bit more diagnostics. I have nano, but not sure I've fully mastered it yet.
Rgds, Rob
I'm gearing up for this at the mo. I have 2 sample bushes coming in at 62.2mm (Bearmach) and 62.3mm diameter (just a generic one) , with a Borg and Beck one on the way - I'll probably give in and buy genuine, but I was curious as to the differences in construction of the various options.
I expect the hole in the radius arm is about 58.6mm. I have a 30306 taper bearing cup on order, which I'm hoping will get me from <58.5mm to >62.5mm, its OD is 70mm. I have ordered various washers through Accu to get to a 58mm OD which will allow me to press on the outer edge while not pressing on the inner (24mm OD).
Clive, I'd be interested in your pdf too.
Rgds, Rob
I stumbled across this self help group quite by chance a few days ago, having loitered on rangerovers.net for the last year. You guys must be the People's Front for Judea, I was with the Judaean People's Front. Anyway I recognise a few folks from their user names and/or garage contents, and impressed by the camps you guys seem to have periodically.
I have a 50th Defender and a 50th P38. Defender runs well, always has, on the back of basic servicing. P38 I picked up a year ago, and I keep telling myself it's only such a PITA because it was neglected for so many years. I've replaced the rear diff, changed the HU to after market, done a head gasket, o rings and various fluid changes. Next biggies: radius arm bushes (I got orange poly), panhard bushes (not so big) and working out why my air con is not playing, now that it's got hot again.
Cheers, Rob