History not, but you need the right clips, obv, the Auto glass fitters who did mine in January eventually had to get some of their sticks like s*** stuff to make it stay down on one corner, even with a brand new strip, and plenty of the right clips

I took the front bumper off today and checked the wiring from pressure switch 1 through to the compressor, which is fine, I also changed the switch itself for a 2nd hand one I had spare - it reads about 1.5 ohms at 6 Bar of pressure. Then I went to 102/202 in the footwell. I removed it, and plugged it back in... clutch started working - hooray I thought.... except then it stopped again. Gives me a target for tomorrow - I may de-pin/ clean it - some green signs on the plug, I must be close : o)

I think it's worth doing the o rings, but having said that I got away with replacing the condenser and drier last year and using the same o rings. My air con was regassed today, but was at 6 bar prior to evacuation/ recovery so seems to hold pressure pretty well. The o rings are different sizes (and green, obv) - maybe check on lrcat.ru and have some on hand just in case one/ more are trashed

Ok - I think the primary reason is operator impatience... after watching an RSW vid it was suggested that you let the car run with a door open so that the EAS pump could spend all its time filling the tank...I let the pump run for 10 mins, it then cut itself off, I closed the door and it immediately climbed to standard height. Possibly the compressor needs a helping hand in future and so I'll rebuild the pump anyway at some point. Back to the air con again now !!

If only it were that easy... but no, no faults...for good measure I did hit Clear Faults a few times regardless, but nothing. I also pressed the up/down selector on the dashboard a few times and at certain points it seemed to move a bit,and at one point came up v slowly to standard height. But the default setting is access light lit, standard light flashing. Is this sounding like a compressor rebuild?

This P38 is testing my sense of humour... I think since owning this I have averaged about 48 hours of worry free motoring before the next major system failure - today EAS..

I was just playing with the nanocom this morning in EAS resetting ride heights as it was a few cm higher on the right than on the left, on level ground. So obv the EAS was having to work a bit harder than usual, and it was hot... I got the settings I wanted, but now I have ended up on bump stops, and can't get to any other ride height. The Compressor works still, and the whole system was working fine before. No discernible leaks. So either something simply failed, or I was wondering if the Nano has some functionality that cd have disabled EAS ( as a result of me messing around). I'm looking for the quick win before I have to go through things methodically - seems like something gave out on me - any quick things I should try before I have to start pulling EAS apart?

After changing the rear diff on mine off I'm pretty sure that the steel bolt goes right through the rubber bush.... http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/87921/88041/6925 But if it doesn't then what you say makes sense

Took it to ATS - they read the fronts as 0 degrees 5 minutes toe out, tie rod seized so we couldn't tweak the toe. They didn't charge - can't say fairer than that !! The rears are 0 degrees 15 minutes toe out, and I guess those should be parallel, but the rears are unadjustable so.... nothing can be done for that, right?

Circling back to air con after covering off radius arms and panhard rods, and clearing a short on my electric seats.

I have put a 22k thermistor across the terminals for the heater core sensor, concluded the old one was scrap, replacement on the way. There's a corner of Nano in the GEMS ECU mode, which records the air con request from HEVAC ( I have a yes) and in the outputs section I can in theory force the grant to yes/ no...I just haven't got that function to work for me yet - but if there's something else interfering down-stream then I wouldn't necessarily see the clutch engage - next stop trinary switch and then I guess I'll get a pressure test on the a/c line and refill if necessary

I think O2 sensors look ok? No fault codes

Bank 1
CL. USE O2
pre cat sensor hops around 0-5v (should it hop, or be steady)
LT fuel trim 0 (just cleared it)
ST trim -3.75

Bank 2
CL.USE O2
precat sensor 1.79
LT trim 0
ST trim +3.75

elsewhere:
O2 config is 11
pre cat sensor heater is reading 1.12

But the wire cage wouldn't stop the nut falling off, i think it's a bit of a superfluous design- right up there with putting two ends of a wire around the diff dampers mounted on the same bolt and expecting that to stop the damper from falling off

there's loads of Formula 1s, but unfortunately a bit sparse around SW London. ATS said £60, and it's close, so I may just go with that. How much did the LR dealer charge Rutland?

Hi guys,

Any recommendations for a good/ sensibly priced tracking alignment garage in SW London. Two different guys are wanting to charge me c£150 to do it...which seems a bit of a p*** take. Or should I just invest in the ebay laser kit that's showing up on the "uneven tyre wear" thread?

Did the other radius arm today... bolts rusted into bushes, SDS hammer drill to release. Then poly bushes removed as above. I spent a lot longer cleaning the radius arms this time and as a result didn't need the breaker bar to wind the bushes in. the 30306 race does the job... c 15 mins per bush. Next time i'd get some 60-62mm OD washers too. Now i can get back to the AC

I fitted Monroe front and rear in the last six months, which seem fine. That said, after reading your post Clive i now think I am not discerning enough - I only have a Defender's coils (Terrafirma shocks) to compare to, so I would put up with anything, and the old shocks i took off the P38 were toast.

I'm good for ride heights, electronic troubleshooting manual and a TSB about a rocking front seat :o) If LR challenges copyright at this point in the "life" cycle they would just be consigning the last of the P38s to their final resting place. We enthusiasts are the only reason these babies are still alive, and they're hardly intuitive to work on (well, not to me, anyhow). Makes me appreciate my Defender more by the day

lol - yeh Robbo you must have spent a long time on that

I did one radius arm today. Cut the nuts off the axle bolts, fortunately the bolts themselves were not seized in the metal core of the poly bushes. I drove the metal cores out on an M12 bar (have some 15mm steel pipe on hand, I only had copper, it works, just). Then I got a pry bar between the two halves of the poly bush and yanked, they came out whole, with a bit of persuasion.
I probably could have done a better job of clearing the rust out of the radius arm holes, but anyway I drove the bushes (used bearmach) in using an M12 bar/ an ebay chinese bush removal kit and through the 30306 taper bearing cup/ race. I put a jubilee clip around the top end of the bush (not massively tight) to stop it spreading under load. I put the lower nut of the M12 bar into a vice, with the radius arm on the bench. Last 10 turns I did by hand with a 1m breaker bar. One man job, no press needed, but made full use of my impact wrench/ breaker bar.

One bush drove totally true, one is maybe 1mm off, but I blame that on my poor prep of the radius arms, most likely.

Next time? I think I'll use a jubilee clip to attach my M40 washers to the bush "pusher" so that they don't slide about. The kits carry the right diameter but the core of these radius arm bushes protrude quite a long way and need extra washers to clear it without pushing the core or the rubber. Could be a 10 minute job to drive the bushes if I find the magic combo of washers/ pushers, and a better way to clean the inside of the radius arms, maybe with the grinding wheel on a dremel - a flap sander was pretty useless. I don't have a die grinder

Thanks, yes I forgot to mention the O2 sensors, I had a look in that part of nano the other day and nothing leapt out, but I'll have another look, now that I know what I'm looking for, tnx for the advice

GEMS 4.6

Engine is perfectly driveable, perhaps a bit of a tappet-like rattle on one cylinder, but notably smelly at idle... I don't have a nose for these things, but it smells a bit rich... Does that mean the cats are up s*** creek (distinctly possible, but sounds expensive), or the MAFs playing up (i haven't removed it/ cleaned it at this point) ? HT leads and plugs are new. All the old plugs looked good on removal too. LH head gasket recently replaced. All injectors resistance tested consistently (although high end of expected range).

Any thoughts from our experts?

Rgds, Rob