So just to conclude on the original question - no/ bad sensor reads -20 degrees. Putting a wire straight across the connector will read up to 100 degrees, but then gets replaced by a 75 degree default value after enough time - air con works fine in this mode. Using a 22k thermistor on the connector reads you ambient temp - i didn't bother trying to clip it up to the pipe, or mount it in any meaningful way. I have a new sensor being shipped from the US for about 70 quid. Had I known then what I know now I would probably just have put the wire across the connector for the heater core sensor and forgotten about it - one less point of failure eliminated, even if it risks a blast of chilly air in the winter in the first few seconds before the V8 heats the heater core.

Be careful what you wish for, I challenged my quote and it went up .... That was a multi car policy - i've had a few in the past, and apart from NFU have never been convinced this works in the insuree's favour, and just makes things even more opaque when it comes to trying to work out how they came to a particular quote.

I guess we need to email attachments to Gordon?

I also adjusted the tracking in between, but fairly sure that didn't make any difference

Spent several hours messing around with 102/202, depinning the male upper plug at 1,7 and 12 etc and cycling the ignition. The Grant on #1 was 5v, #7 read 12v, and Request on #12 was zero. I put some silicone seal on top of this plug as water clearly gets in here.
Also unplugged c244 on HEVAC, nada.... Gave up, put it all back together, moved the car to park up for the night and it started working again...all v strange

History not, but you need the right clips, obv, the Auto glass fitters who did mine in January eventually had to get some of their sticks like s*** stuff to make it stay down on one corner, even with a brand new strip, and plenty of the right clips

I took the front bumper off today and checked the wiring from pressure switch 1 through to the compressor, which is fine, I also changed the switch itself for a 2nd hand one I had spare - it reads about 1.5 ohms at 6 Bar of pressure. Then I went to 102/202 in the footwell. I removed it, and plugged it back in... clutch started working - hooray I thought.... except then it stopped again. Gives me a target for tomorrow - I may de-pin/ clean it - some green signs on the plug, I must be close : o)

I think it's worth doing the o rings, but having said that I got away with replacing the condenser and drier last year and using the same o rings. My air con was regassed today, but was at 6 bar prior to evacuation/ recovery so seems to hold pressure pretty well. The o rings are different sizes (and green, obv) - maybe check on lrcat.ru and have some on hand just in case one/ more are trashed

Ok - I think the primary reason is operator impatience... after watching an RSW vid it was suggested that you let the car run with a door open so that the EAS pump could spend all its time filling the tank...I let the pump run for 10 mins, it then cut itself off, I closed the door and it immediately climbed to standard height. Possibly the compressor needs a helping hand in future and so I'll rebuild the pump anyway at some point. Back to the air con again now !!

If only it were that easy... but no, no faults...for good measure I did hit Clear Faults a few times regardless, but nothing. I also pressed the up/down selector on the dashboard a few times and at certain points it seemed to move a bit,and at one point came up v slowly to standard height. But the default setting is access light lit, standard light flashing. Is this sounding like a compressor rebuild?

This P38 is testing my sense of humour... I think since owning this I have averaged about 48 hours of worry free motoring before the next major system failure - today EAS..

I was just playing with the nanocom this morning in EAS resetting ride heights as it was a few cm higher on the right than on the left, on level ground. So obv the EAS was having to work a bit harder than usual, and it was hot... I got the settings I wanted, but now I have ended up on bump stops, and can't get to any other ride height. The Compressor works still, and the whole system was working fine before. No discernible leaks. So either something simply failed, or I was wondering if the Nano has some functionality that cd have disabled EAS ( as a result of me messing around). I'm looking for the quick win before I have to go through things methodically - seems like something gave out on me - any quick things I should try before I have to start pulling EAS apart?

After changing the rear diff on mine off I'm pretty sure that the steel bolt goes right through the rubber bush.... http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/87921/88041/6925 But if it doesn't then what you say makes sense

Took it to ATS - they read the fronts as 0 degrees 5 minutes toe out, tie rod seized so we couldn't tweak the toe. They didn't charge - can't say fairer than that !! The rears are 0 degrees 15 minutes toe out, and I guess those should be parallel, but the rears are unadjustable so.... nothing can be done for that, right?

Circling back to air con after covering off radius arms and panhard rods, and clearing a short on my electric seats.

I have put a 22k thermistor across the terminals for the heater core sensor, concluded the old one was scrap, replacement on the way. There's a corner of Nano in the GEMS ECU mode, which records the air con request from HEVAC ( I have a yes) and in the outputs section I can in theory force the grant to yes/ no...I just haven't got that function to work for me yet - but if there's something else interfering down-stream then I wouldn't necessarily see the clutch engage - next stop trinary switch and then I guess I'll get a pressure test on the a/c line and refill if necessary

I think O2 sensors look ok? No fault codes

Bank 1
CL. USE O2
pre cat sensor hops around 0-5v (should it hop, or be steady)
LT fuel trim 0 (just cleared it)
ST trim -3.75

Bank 2
CL.USE O2
precat sensor 1.79
LT trim 0
ST trim +3.75

elsewhere:
O2 config is 11
pre cat sensor heater is reading 1.12

But the wire cage wouldn't stop the nut falling off, i think it's a bit of a superfluous design- right up there with putting two ends of a wire around the diff dampers mounted on the same bolt and expecting that to stop the damper from falling off

there's loads of Formula 1s, but unfortunately a bit sparse around SW London. ATS said £60, and it's close, so I may just go with that. How much did the LR dealer charge Rutland?

Hi guys,

Any recommendations for a good/ sensibly priced tracking alignment garage in SW London. Two different guys are wanting to charge me c£150 to do it...which seems a bit of a p*** take. Or should I just invest in the ebay laser kit that's showing up on the "uneven tyre wear" thread?

Did the other radius arm today... bolts rusted into bushes, SDS hammer drill to release. Then poly bushes removed as above. I spent a lot longer cleaning the radius arms this time and as a result didn't need the breaker bar to wind the bushes in. the 30306 race does the job... c 15 mins per bush. Next time i'd get some 60-62mm OD washers too. Now i can get back to the AC

I fitted Monroe front and rear in the last six months, which seem fine. That said, after reading your post Clive i now think I am not discerning enough - I only have a Defender's coils (Terrafirma shocks) to compare to, so I would put up with anything, and the old shocks i took off the P38 were toast.