I got a 20k NTC thermistor, arrived yesterday, plugged it in, and Nanocom reads more sensibly. It didn't do anything for the air con though... I'll get a replacement sensor and go from there. At least the weather is s*** these days so no need for air con, although on the plus side I got my sun roof working the other day (was turned off in the BECM...if only everything was that easy).

Pretty sure my heater core sensor is not good (so don't use this data as a reference), but after chucking the sensor in the freezer it reads about 700k ohms. At body temp it's about 230k ohms, over a kettle it's about 45k. On Nano it was reading about zero at rest, and 20 degrees or so when up and running, so definitely out of range. Anyone got real data from a working one?

+1 for watching, and test the heated screen after.
Have a supply of short flanged stainless screws on hand, keep a dremel / cutting disk nearby in case the screws are rusted.
Tell Autoglass it's a 2 man job...it took two of them an hour and a half to do mine.
Try and get a few of the clips for the lower trim, they are like rocking horse shit though. Needs someone with access to a 3D printer to knock some out

I'm all about the planning for my radius arm removal... and read horror stories of grinders and air chisels

When removing the old bolts from the axle bushes on the radius arms, it look like you can loosen off the nylocs,drop the anti-roll bar down and then access the Radius arm bolt heads. Then an impact wrench would shock the bolts into twisting loose - or did that not work ?

I don't have a thermistor, but I had a jumper across the plug the last few days to see if the system might be tricked into thinking it was a balmy plus 80 and time to put the air con on, but no dice. So I'm not convinced it's the sensor. Am a bit behind plan on the A/C diagnostics as I was doing a Defender oil and coolant change over the weekend, and the weather got cold again :o)

To answer my own question, no, it's a sealed unit

Thanks Marty, no amount of "wiggling" has got my heater core sensor responding properly. I may try removing / reinstalling next. Is it relatively easy to desolder the thermistor and replace a new one, do you think?

Rgds, Rob

Forewarned is forearmed, and all that... I assure you these polybushes will die one way or the other. I have the PO to thank for the poly bushes ie not my choice

Not much help, but my drinks lid is also a bit rubbish. You can shorten the bolt if you want. I think originally it was probably a cotter pin with some kind of split pin in the end. I put an M4/5 on mine with a nyloc nut. I had to buy a new strut, but that didn't seem to help. Don't bother using SGS to refill them, you'll just have to buy new... Someone will hopefully tell us if they ever really worked very well. And having a load of drinks at your elbow is a disaster waiting to happen

I ordered some washers M40 A type has a 58mm OD, and anything greater than M24 clears the centre of the bush. Have a look at Accu, good range of stainless washers several mm thick, I spent 5 or 6 quid on the washers

I've pushed the new bush through the taper bearing twice now, as a dress rehearsal, all good. I wound it through on an M12 bar using an impact wrench, no dramas, maybe 20 seconds? Next stop radius arms

Thanks guys. I'll check out those connectors too

30306 taper bearing arrived today... the cup tapers from 63.8mm to 58.5mm with a height of 16mm. Cost £3-50, fingers crossed

Ok, but then the steel centre tubes seem to be the way to go then? ie just "normal" rust but no galvanic corrosion...

Thanks Clive

Thanks guys, I was being lazy and trying to avoid pulling the cheeks off and HEVAC out for the millionth time :o) but that may be next step... This eve i disconnected the evap sensor - open circuit goes to -40 bridging the connectors defaults to +80 - neither reading is much good to me, so I plugged it back in.

The heater core sensor was wiggled, no change, reads about 0, despite the pipe being too hot to touch. Unplugged and the "reading" is -20, when I bridge the contacts on the plug the default setting goes to +80. I figure that latter reading more closely reflects what the heater core temp would read when the vehicle is running, so I'll drive with the bridge in for a few days and see if the AC settles and kicks in. Sounds like the heater core sensor is mis-reading, but equally I'm not sure that replacing it is going to solve the no air con situation.

At 12V the clutch is definitely working, and immediately chills the cabin, so after I get an air con grant Ican definitely check the voltage drop (if any), I already checked the earth point for the condenser ground wire, and no probs. Last summer (ie after I bought it) the clutch wasn't working, so I removed it, wiped some of the crud off and it started working again, so gap seems ok, if marginal

Tomorrow I'll send 12V to the input side of the trinary switch and confirm that is functioning ok given that there seems to be sufficient pressure in the air con for cooling. And then I'll pull the HEVAC unit and see what I have on the request/ grant wires

Assuming I have air con request, but no grant, then that means some other condition is not being met at the ECM- has anyone stumbled across a list of what those are?

I have 3 radius arm bushes on my bench now one generic, one Bearmach, one Borg and Beck. The plastic outer of each looks slightly different, but have the same dimensions to +/- 0.5mm, that said the generic and B&B branded ones are both embossed 5003 H on the rubber. Both B&B and the generic one have an alloy centre tube (coming in at 18g). Bearmach uses steel (25g). Given that someone crushed the centre tube of one of the bushes on torquing up, is steel the way to go? Are the genuine ones steel or ali centre tubes? I may just splurge on 4 genuines, but was curious enough to want to know the difference.

Just read Rutland's post about wiggling the heater core sensor, I'll give that a go too

98 GEMS
So O rings done, I've now got full cabin heat, but the UK weather just went tropical (for a few days, anyway), so now I need the AC... Last summer the AC worked, after I replaced the condenser and added a 2nd hand drier.

This year the AC is not playing. The compressor works, when I give 12v and and earth direct to the connector (C166P) the clutch engages, and the cabin chills as expected. In normal use though nanocom says AC grant "no", but as far as I'm aware the nanocom doesn't also tell me the AC request status - if I could find that in the nanocom menu somewhere it could help with diagnosis, and if I could force it on that would be even better. I also need to disconnect the BECM diagnostic connector as it apparently interferes with the Nanocom's interrogation of the HEVAC ECU - I haven't done that yet - but I don't know if that wd screw up the readings or not.

It crossed my mind that one of the many sensors may be feeding in rubbish data to the HEVAC ECU.
I got ambient 12.7 (fine)
aspirator 18.2 (fine)
evaporator 16.2 (ok, just replaced with a 2nd hand one off a freelander, but same Valeo part number)
heater core temp -0.20 (although it climbs once I've turned up to Hi)

Is the heater core temp way off - seems so. What range should it read in? If that were the case is that going to explain why the AC is not being requested? I recently did the o rings so cd have disturbed something on the sensor

In general any HEVAC faults I have had in the last year are clearable. I have a rare "compressor open circuit" message (but I had that last year too, when the AC was working) and the right blend motor needs fixing at some point. I have a periodic service book come up, but I think it's usually triggered by me asking the jammed blend motor to move (ie by pressing the "wrong" button to adjust the air vent flow)

Seems my first job is to get to air con grant "yes" and then I can start testing stuff... And maybe pressure test the aircon system

I'm planning to use a threaded bar and my favourite piece of kit a DeWalt impact gun :o) Worst case I'll end up at the local garage and borrow their press, I couldn't quite bring myself to buy a press, yet...