I'm good for ride heights, electronic troubleshooting manual and a TSB about a rocking front seat :o) If LR challenges copyright at this point in the "life" cycle they would just be consigning the last of the P38s to their final resting place. We enthusiasts are the only reason these babies are still alive, and they're hardly intuitive to work on (well, not to me, anyhow). Makes me appreciate my Defender more by the day

lol - yeh Robbo you must have spent a long time on that

I did one radius arm today. Cut the nuts off the axle bolts, fortunately the bolts themselves were not seized in the metal core of the poly bushes. I drove the metal cores out on an M12 bar (have some 15mm steel pipe on hand, I only had copper, it works, just). Then I got a pry bar between the two halves of the poly bush and yanked, they came out whole, with a bit of persuasion.
I probably could have done a better job of clearing the rust out of the radius arm holes, but anyway I drove the bushes (used bearmach) in using an M12 bar/ an ebay chinese bush removal kit and through the 30306 taper bearing cup/ race. I put a jubilee clip around the top end of the bush (not massively tight) to stop it spreading under load. I put the lower nut of the M12 bar into a vice, with the radius arm on the bench. Last 10 turns I did by hand with a 1m breaker bar. One man job, no press needed, but made full use of my impact wrench/ breaker bar.

One bush drove totally true, one is maybe 1mm off, but I blame that on my poor prep of the radius arms, most likely.

Next time? I think I'll use a jubilee clip to attach my M40 washers to the bush "pusher" so that they don't slide about. The kits carry the right diameter but the core of these radius arm bushes protrude quite a long way and need extra washers to clear it without pushing the core or the rubber. Could be a 10 minute job to drive the bushes if I find the magic combo of washers/ pushers, and a better way to clean the inside of the radius arms, maybe with the grinding wheel on a dremel - a flap sander was pretty useless. I don't have a die grinder

Thanks, yes I forgot to mention the O2 sensors, I had a look in that part of nano the other day and nothing leapt out, but I'll have another look, now that I know what I'm looking for, tnx for the advice

GEMS 4.6

Engine is perfectly driveable, perhaps a bit of a tappet-like rattle on one cylinder, but notably smelly at idle... I don't have a nose for these things, but it smells a bit rich... Does that mean the cats are up s*** creek (distinctly possible, but sounds expensive), or the MAFs playing up (i haven't removed it/ cleaned it at this point) ? HT leads and plugs are new. All the old plugs looked good on removal too. LH head gasket recently replaced. All injectors resistance tested consistently (although high end of expected range).

Any thoughts from our experts?

Rgds, Rob

I got a 20k NTC thermistor, arrived yesterday, plugged it in, and Nanocom reads more sensibly. It didn't do anything for the air con though... I'll get a replacement sensor and go from there. At least the weather is s*** these days so no need for air con, although on the plus side I got my sun roof working the other day (was turned off in the BECM...if only everything was that easy).

Pretty sure my heater core sensor is not good (so don't use this data as a reference), but after chucking the sensor in the freezer it reads about 700k ohms. At body temp it's about 230k ohms, over a kettle it's about 45k. On Nano it was reading about zero at rest, and 20 degrees or so when up and running, so definitely out of range. Anyone got real data from a working one?

+1 for watching, and test the heated screen after.
Have a supply of short flanged stainless screws on hand, keep a dremel / cutting disk nearby in case the screws are rusted.
Tell Autoglass it's a 2 man job...it took two of them an hour and a half to do mine.
Try and get a few of the clips for the lower trim, they are like rocking horse shit though. Needs someone with access to a 3D printer to knock some out

I'm all about the planning for my radius arm removal... and read horror stories of grinders and air chisels

When removing the old bolts from the axle bushes on the radius arms, it look like you can loosen off the nylocs,drop the anti-roll bar down and then access the Radius arm bolt heads. Then an impact wrench would shock the bolts into twisting loose - or did that not work ?

I don't have a thermistor, but I had a jumper across the plug the last few days to see if the system might be tricked into thinking it was a balmy plus 80 and time to put the air con on, but no dice. So I'm not convinced it's the sensor. Am a bit behind plan on the A/C diagnostics as I was doing a Defender oil and coolant change over the weekend, and the weather got cold again :o)

To answer my own question, no, it's a sealed unit

Thanks Marty, no amount of "wiggling" has got my heater core sensor responding properly. I may try removing / reinstalling next. Is it relatively easy to desolder the thermistor and replace a new one, do you think?

Rgds, Rob

Forewarned is forearmed, and all that... I assure you these polybushes will die one way or the other. I have the PO to thank for the poly bushes ie not my choice

Not much help, but my drinks lid is also a bit rubbish. You can shorten the bolt if you want. I think originally it was probably a cotter pin with some kind of split pin in the end. I put an M4/5 on mine with a nyloc nut. I had to buy a new strut, but that didn't seem to help. Don't bother using SGS to refill them, you'll just have to buy new... Someone will hopefully tell us if they ever really worked very well. And having a load of drinks at your elbow is a disaster waiting to happen

I ordered some washers M40 A type has a 58mm OD, and anything greater than M24 clears the centre of the bush. Have a look at Accu, good range of stainless washers several mm thick, I spent 5 or 6 quid on the washers

I've pushed the new bush through the taper bearing twice now, as a dress rehearsal, all good. I wound it through on an M12 bar using an impact wrench, no dramas, maybe 20 seconds? Next stop radius arms

Thanks guys. I'll check out those connectors too

30306 taper bearing arrived today... the cup tapers from 63.8mm to 58.5mm with a height of 16mm. Cost £3-50, fingers crossed

Ok, but then the steel centre tubes seem to be the way to go then? ie just "normal" rust but no galvanic corrosion...

Thanks Clive