Clean the whole engine bay and then have a look for UV traces after running at pressure... I've had various leaks across a few LRs, condenser and hoses were the easy ones, but I also had a leak from a compressor, at the clutch
...Unless you find the UV trace then dont waste time, and just recharge in May each year?
I assume the clutch is pulling in as it should? If not then there are other fixes to consider

No, M6, but 12 mm long. Only the first 8mm of thread was clean, so presumably 4mm protrusion for the jet

Turns out they're 12 mm, perhaps helps with dispersal? But it looks like the thread was only in about 8mm ( the remainder is black)

Tnx. Wd 10mm bolt length be about right, do you think? Or shorter...i'll need to order some

I dont do many miles, never use lpg and it causes a coolant leak, so I plan to decommission it.looks as if I need to drain half the coolant, remove the plenum and then the hoses that were drilled into the inlet manifold. Then I need to blank off 8 holes in the inlet manifold and 1 in the plenum?
I assume theres no need to remove the actual manifold itself. I can disconnect the ECU easily enough, and then examine how it was spliced into the engine ecu.... I may leave the tank in place for now, but if so, how should I seal it off (it's empty). Any other key jobs?

That was of course option no 1, but a normal flat blade is too thin, and if you twist it in the slot the screwdriver blade is harder than the uj/shaft and will leave a scar

By far the most time consuming step is getting the shaft on and off. for the removal I used a cooling fan spanner in the slot between the plastic ring and the uj. Wiggle it back and forth until you have more room and then use one or more 19 mm open spanners.
I like the open chisel idea, but with hindsight i'd buy a sacrificial cold chisel 12 to 18 inches long and grind it to about 2mm thicker than the slot you need to spread on the shaft and to the same width as the length of the slot. TIme spent on prep will be well.spent...

Worth checking the firing sequence, even for the umpteenth time...

Welcome ( back) to the loony bin...

Makes sense I just got a long piece of wood in the end, and tapped the shaft on gently with a mallet, in line with the chassis rail.

The washers I had on my banjo bolts were quite sophisticated: metal outside with a silicone inner, so I reused them

No missing spline, but i'll give the cold chisel a whirl

Whats the secret to getting the lower end of the intermediate shaft back on to the splines of the replacement steering box...any genius ideas?

A ring of red loctite, or plumbers tape?

Personally I don't worry about High - that you can measure from the wheel hub using a measuring stick (how long does your P38 drive in high anyway...) Select high ride height, insert standard blocks...select access and then use the nano to accept the ride heights for the standard setting... no need for jacks or anything else... The other important thing as Richard mentioned is the bit count left to right - a big difference in bit count seems to cause problems, and if necessary (ie EAS still seems to be strange things) you need to manually reduce the difference across the axle using the nano (or EAS software). If both L&R sensors were identically aged and worn either side or brand new you probably wouldn't have to do this

Yesterday I went for my first drive after replacing the hose on my Cruise Control. It still doesnt work.... I have also put a battery on the motor as a test, the Diaphragm pulls in, no problem...Before I dig out rave and start going through the diagnostic waterfall, what is the next most obvious probem to check?

blast of compressed air for the current one, and order a replacement aspirator from ebay :)

I wd make sure the ports are clean... get the sensor out, remove the cage, wrap a bit of emery paper round the sensor and give the port a good clean out, then grease it all up. I may be imagining it, but it seems to help the sensor self-gap more effectively, and seems to have worked for me a couple of times ie problem went away, without needing a new sensor.

You cd also try NFU... My P38 was shunted in the rear by an Admiral driver a couple of years ago - their insurers would only pay me cash for what was a refurb of the back bumper, tey refused/ were incapable of fixing it. Then it got hit by a Hastings driver (while parked) they were going to hand me to the same claims agent as the Admiral guys... so i declined to use the other party's insurer (and will do so next time too) and used mine - NFU. They took the car away, fixed it, and sent it back, no fuss. I like an insurer that will walk the talk... They are also "old school"... you can actually have a conversation with them. That said They still managed to increase my premiums by about 20% - they're all at it

I wd only contest your point about "EKA enabled" Richard... For a while i was worried that disabling the EKA would mean that the BECM would not still accept the EKA, bu then proved to mysalf that it does (by toggling the enabled/ disabled feature, and causing the engine disable to kick in... In that sense we are saying the same thing, but then what's the harm in disabling the EKA, rather than leaving it enabled ? I have my EKA disabled and haven't had to input the EKA for a long time - i had to do it twice in anger, on my previous P38 - once at a service station (which i suppose must have been electrical interference) and the other time when the battery went flat (left the lights on all night)