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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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You can buy used parts e.g. rear door lock and put that motor in the front door lock. The microswitches are also compatible. Done it on mine.
The motor seizes up from use.

Steam cleaners have probably packed in. The waste water has to be collected now to stop pollution. Can't get our vehicles at work cleaned now without that.

Nice one. Did mine too. Pain in the bumper.

Have you replaced your gearbox oil cooler pipes?
They look new!

Iirc both of mine came with o-rings

I think this is the one I used. Metal impellor on it.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/circoli-water-pump-201110161

May as well do thermostat at same time.
The time taken to strip down will pay for itself.

I'd be looking at the water pump first.
The radiator is quite capable of cooling the engine while moving, even in 30deg c temps.
The water pump has been known to fail with the vanes not turning but outside looking normal, normally the plastic impellor version.

There will also be a dot on the display that shows differing in both parts.

Gilbertd wrote:

Yours is the diesel so you don't appear to have many options, https://www.lrdirect.com/stc2227-alternator. Although someone did identify a replacement regulator and brushes assembly for around £20 which might be a better option as you will keep the original Bosch (I believe) innards.

That was me.
Might be able to find part number if needed.

Pierre3 wrote:

Tanis8472, thanks for your information. I will have a look at the brake switch this weekend, weather permitting.

Pierre3.
👍

There are 2 brake switches on the diesel.
Becm checks one against the other. One will be open circuit and the other closed circuit with brakes not on and the values change when brake is applied.

Well it wasn't Brit part. Sorry Britpart.

They were branded Eurospare.

It's going to the great yard in the sky. Can't justify spending any more on her.
Probably be lucky to get 2 years more out of her if it was still running.
Chassis is corroded at the rear where the bumper attaches along with some bearing whine from the rear diff.
😔

Probably won't be getting another rr either.
Still staying with lr though.

Squeaking I'm not sure about, but the knocking is from the crank near no 6 cylinder.
Had a stethoscope down there. Quite nasty sounding.

😞

Spoke too soon. Took it out for a test drive today. Did about 4 miles and started getting knocking and squeaking from engine.
I suspect the bottom ends or big ends have been trashed.

Yep, silicone is what I use.

Gilbertd wrote:

I think all of the suppliers do it, they'll have the LR part number with an extra letter on the end signifying which supplier. That is my one complaint with Rimmers, they will offer genuine or aftermarket with no mention of who made the aftermarket. LRDirect and island will tell you if it is Geuine, OE, Bearmach, Allmakes, Britpart, etc so you stand a good chance of knowing what you will get.

If I recall correctly, p1 is britpart otherwise it'll be oem.

I've hopefully dodged a bullet.
Got new hose fitted, oil filter changed and new oil filled.
Started first time and oil pressure light went out quite fast.
Sounds OK.

Got another hose ordered for the upper one.

Time will tell.

Have a look at Storey Wilsons video.
He is the guy that created eas programming software for pc's etc

https://youtu.be/ChQklA1fuH0

I'm doubting my memory now. Not so sure they were in blue bags. I know rimmer have a system of distinguishing part makes into oe, oem and britpart. Its why some parts have p at the end.