I too was banned from there lol
Be careful leaving anything plugged into the eobd port. Left a extension in mine a few days and it corroded several of the pins in the socket. There's a permanent live in there causing electrolysis. Mine does leak from the pollen filter housing getting it wet.
Wow, missed this. Sorry
It's not leaking anymore. Still have a damp wheel well bits the rubber grommet holes are a bit rusty.
I found that out on an old one several weeks ago.
You can see the difference on the car. They look much brighter during daylight.
No wonder folk say they are shire.
The bottom one if originally from my 1996 p38.
The top one is quite new.
Look at the difference in reflectors.
Bleeding stupid if you ask me. Also doing away with coupling 5th wheel test too.
So not rests for trailers anymore. Wow. That's not surprising considering the current muppets in government.
Jeez, great way to feck up the drive train.
Must never use rollers. They should be using a decelerometer that goes in passenger footwell.
If it helps, this is a handy site for bmw m51 diesel engine parts. Just select a 5 series 525tds and year should bring up parts.
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog
Or this 3 series
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E36-Sedan/Europe/325tds-M51/R-A/jun1996/browse/
Yep. Electronic not vacuum operated.
Which was what I was wondering. No doubt the switch is fubar.
Are you getting a bonnet open warning on the dash?
Pull out the lower cover under the steering wheel. Big one with 4 screws.
Reach up under the dash to the right of the steering wheel and find a squarish shaped relay looking thing and unplug it. Then plug it back in. Mine didn't work until I did that.
It's clipped onto a metal rail.
FRC7630
And get the arm too. That's FTC1816
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/91427/91612/7248/91660
Did mine last year. Got them direct from LR parts dept at local dealer. They're not expensive.
Thanks Richard. Didn't see that.
As title. Anyone know the actual torque settings for the big bolts through the rear donut.
Rave shows uj's and no specs.
I've gone 78nm as that's tight and seen several posts on web with similar specs.
Cherrs
I've had injectors out and they have a copper washer to seal.
They can be used again if you aneal them to cherry red and quenching in water.
I very much doubt its blowby though. The injectors start to leak where they have a joint.
Gilbertd wrote:
White/Pink has ignition switched power while Black is ground. Power comes from F6 which is fused at 10A. I've run power for a dashcam from the back of the fag lighter socket, it goes across under the steering column, up the A pillar between the plastic trim and door rubber and can then be tucked up behind the headlining without having to remove anything other than the knee panel.
Exactly what I did.
Don't know about a permanent live up top though.
Quite often the motor spindle seizes up. One of mine works while other doesn't.
Iirc disconnecting the washer pump motor connector disables them too.
BrianH wrote:
Gilbertd wrote:
You can put white bulbs in but with the LEDs being that much brighter they look a sort of washed out red. Red behind the red looks right (or as right as LEDs ever can).
One of my neighbours has discovered the same thing - I ended up with some spare reversing light bulbs for one of my cars thanks to that, as he found they were surprisingly wrong for the brake lights, so ended up buying red ones instead. Its a Porsche 924 he has but it was defintely not the right choice.
The reversing lights are much better with LED though so worth it for that. I've mainly changed some of mine to avoid having to change bulbs that can be a pain (sidelights particually as they seem to go fairly often for me)
Quite probably due to a weak earth point for the sidelights.