I spent an hour this morning stripping the button after I noticed the button lost its springiness.
I bought a spring and o-ring from a guy on ebay last week. A tad expensive for what it is, but worth it I think.
It is very easy to do.
This is the guys video which helps.
This is the spring I removed. Eek
As above. Came up with electrical fault this morning and noticed that headlights are on permanent with ignition on. Also remote locking not working and side mirror not adjusting. Windows work fine.
No fuses blown.
I have a feeling it's the fusebox under the bonnet.
Engine starts fine.
Does anyone know if the seat cushion is the same on electric and manual models and also if left and right are interchangeable.
My cushion feels like it has disintegrated and i bottom out if going over some bumps etc :(
I'm having issues with my P38. I believe its the BeCM that is causing issues.
Listed are some of the problems
Message center saying Electrical Fault
Rear wiper not working.
Front wiper only working on constant and not self parking.
Headlights on permanently when ignition on
Mainbeam not working
Interior lights not working
Telltale on Cruise Control, Hazard Lights, Fog Lights and EAS not working.
Sidelights not working
Rear door CL dont work nor the front. I know rear are driven direct from BeCM
I had a few random messages over last few weeks such as
Interior Lights Disabled
Interior Lights Enabled
Engine can be started
I've checked all the wires and connections for damage and see no damage in the engine fusebox.
Does that sound like the BeCM?
Last post was done using mobile. Ive had more time with laptop today.
Do not under any circumstances leave any type of obd lead or reader attached to the connector when you are finished with it.
Mine has filled with water and electrolysis has removed 2 pins from my eas lead and damaged the connector :(
I hate electrics,
Can anyone give me a pointer on solving or at least temporary bypass so air suspension will level.
My right hand front door lock is not working but does not give problems with door open messages etc. Motor I believe is goosed.
I know tear is earthed through the same front lock.
Help please :)
I know what my thoughts are, but looking for more input etc.
I had issues last year with a lot of strange electrical gremlins that stopped when I charged my battery with mains charger.
It took considerably longer than the normal 12hrs or there abouts for a depleted battery as I understand it.
I've since charged it a few months ago and done again this weekend taking and it's taken best part of 24hrs.
I have a new rectifier with 14.5v set point and a reading at the terminal of 14.2-14.3v which should be good enough to keep it charged.
Give us ya thoughts guys.
Just been nudged this way by Richard_G on RR.net due to the deletion of posts etc.
We've just lost another resource.
http://lrparts.ru/ have removed basically everything previous to about 2007 and no English links either.
Went through a ford which i never have problems with, except today. Water went ovwr the bonnet.
Didnt look that deep lol
I need to change No6 injector as its pushing way too much fuel out of the leak off pipes.
I know its manifold off etc, not a problem, but I dont really want to remove all the high pressure pipes as it can be a bitch to start again.
Can I just loosen and move 1 pipe?
Here's a question for the good folk of rr.pub
Does anyone know if there is a thermostat in the oil system, specifically under the oil filter housing where the cooler pipes go.
diesel m51 engine
I had a fun couple of hours yesterday changing the water pump on my P38.
It started leaking after I flushed it last week, not surprising considering the shit that came out of the radiator when I first got it.
There was a coppery looking paste coming out. AFAIK thats a stop leak product.
You can see the shit in the gap for the o-ring.
Its also been replaced with a pump with a metal impeller.
Seems to work fine if you do it properly. Not the forum software or Imgur but operator error. Suitably edited so the pictures do show up