Coming back from Yorkshire yesterday on the M18 heading to A15 to Lincoln, my oil pressure light came on.
Pulled off M18 at J4 and pulled over. Got recovered home by AA. The hose fitting from the metal pipe to the rubber hose has blown off dumping all my oil.
Car in a right state. Looks as though both hoses were failing.
Anyone explain the fittings to me.
No wonder folk say they are shire.
The bottom one if originally from my 1996 p38.
The top one is quite new.
Look at the difference in reflectors.
As title. Anyone know the actual torque settings for the big bolts through the rear donut.
Rave shows uj's and no specs.
I've gone 78nm as that's tight and seen several posts on web with similar specs.
Bit of a problem, I'm in Yorkshire moors atm and have developed a auto gearbox problem. Its displaying different gear on the h gate to the actual gear its in. Dash display was showing correct gear. I've ordered a new h gate selector top as I suspected its whats wrong with it.
Its also just started crunching from p to r when selected and gearbox fault message on dask.
There are no fault codes stored though .
Any help appreciated
Been busy so not much spare time.
Is the for sale bit still going and if so, where is it?
Developed a rattle a week ago and found this when I changed it.
Its the aircon tensioner
Just been reading rave regarding removing the starter on the BMW diesel lump.
Does anyone know if it can be removed without removing the the dipstick tube?
I'm planning on being in there on saturday to change a couple of coolant hoses as they have gone soft. It involves removing the manifold so plenty of space.
Anybody know of any cheap/decent condition front seat base cushion.
I could really do with one, don't need whole seat and not really bothered what colour
Which blend motor would it be if I'm not getting full flow of air from the demist vents.
I'm getting air through face vents at same time as demist vents.
I know what my thoughts are, but looking for more input etc.
I had issues last year with a lot of strange electrical gremlins that stopped when I charged my battery with mains charger.
It took considerably longer than the normal 12hrs or there abouts for a depleted battery as I understand it.
I've since charged it a few months ago and done again this weekend taking and it's taken best part of 24hrs.
I have a new rectifier with 14.5v set point and a reading at the terminal of 14.2-14.3v which should be good enough to keep it charged.
Give us ya thoughts guys.
Here's a question for the good folk of rr.pub
Does anyone know if there is a thermostat in the oil system, specifically under the oil filter housing where the cooler pipes go.
diesel m51 engine
Do not under any circumstances leave any type of obd lead or reader attached to the connector when you are finished with it.
Mine has filled with water and electrolysis has removed 2 pins from my eas lead and damaged the connector :(
I need to change No6 injector as its pushing way too much fuel out of the leak off pipes.
I know its manifold off etc, not a problem, but I dont really want to remove all the high pressure pipes as it can be a bitch to start again.
Can I just loosen and move 1 pipe?
I spent an hour this morning stripping the button after I noticed the button lost its springiness.
I bought a spring and o-ring from a guy on ebay last week. A tad expensive for what it is, but worth it I think.
It is very easy to do.
This is the guys video which helps.
This is the spring I removed. Eek
I'm having issues with my P38. I believe its the BeCM that is causing issues.
Listed are some of the problems
Message center saying Electrical Fault
Rear wiper not working.
Front wiper only working on constant and not self parking.
Headlights on permanently when ignition on
Mainbeam not working
Interior lights not working
Telltale on Cruise Control, Hazard Lights, Fog Lights and EAS not working.
Sidelights not working
Rear door CL dont work nor the front. I know rear are driven direct from BeCM
I had a few random messages over last few weeks such as
Interior Lights Disabled
Interior Lights Enabled
Engine can be started
I've checked all the wires and connections for damage and see no damage in the engine fusebox.
Does that sound like the BeCM?
Last post was done using mobile. Ive had more time with laptop today.
As above. Came up with electrical fault this morning and noticed that headlights are on permanent with ignition on. Also remote locking not working and side mirror not adjusting. Windows work fine.
No fuses blown.
I have a feeling it's the fusebox under the bonnet.
Engine starts fine.
I hate electrics,
Can anyone give me a pointer on solving or at least temporary bypass so air suspension will level.
My right hand front door lock is not working but does not give problems with door open messages etc. Motor I believe is goosed.
I know tear is earthed through the same front lock.
Help please :)