rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
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408 posts
Feb 11 2018
10 March 2020 - 20:39

Congratulations.

Mine did too on 28th Feb

15 March 2020 - 22:49

SamH wrote:

tanis8472 wrote:

Intermediate reduction drive.

That's the thing, might take a proper look over it today - stupid to leave it sitting there.

BrianH wrote:

Of course, if its also full of radweld that won't help either

I don't like the stuff. I'm sure it's useful somehow, but it isn't likely to exactly improve the coolant flow and if it's leaking badly enough to need it then it's not liable to work anyway. The GEMS gets a regular replacement of standard blue 50/50 - think I'd rather find and source a leak than mask it tbh. I do need to replace all the hoses which are sitting in a box waiting. Current project is looking at the water getting in (well, showing up) at low level in the boot. Got the rear carpet and insulation out at the moment - it's surprising how much can be accessed like that.

thatll more than likely be the boot door seal shrinking with age.
i had to cut mine at the bottom to get it to seal properly and also gently bend the lip out slightly.

there is a tsb about it somewhere.

Range Rover CDS. ref: L8403bu
Issue: 1
Date: 18.03.98
AFFECTED RANGE:
All vehicles
PROBLEM:
WATER INGRESS AT TAILGATE - APERTURE SEAL
Water collecting in spare wheel stowage area.
CAUSE:
Either of the following:
· Tailgate aperture flange irregularities
· Tailgate aperture seal irregularities
· Lower tailgate hinge bolt leakage
· Upper tailgate alignment
ACTION:

  1. Remove tailgate aperture seal and check flange for irregularities.
    Carefully
    straighten any flange area causing concern and evenly bend entire length of
    flange outwards towards tailgate by approximately 5 mm.
  1. Obtain new tailgate seal ALR8547. Referring to the illustration on page 2,
    measure 520 mm outwards from the lower seal section centre line and mark
    seal at these points, measure another 5 mm on from these points and mark
    seal again. With a sharp knife carefully cut through the bubble section of
    seal
    at marked points so that a 'C' shaped section is removed to form drain slots,
    (see inset on illustration).
    NOTE: If modification is carried out correctly the drain slots will be hidden
    under the tread plate.
  2. Fit seal to vehicle confirming that the seal is the correct way up with
    seal joint
    and drain slots at bottom of aperture.
    NOTE: To assist seal fitment and to ensure tightness of seal to flange, the
    seal should first be heated to approximately 40 0 C. This can be achieved by
    placing in an oven or a container of warm water.

  3. Referring to the Workshop Manual,
    Section - Body Repairs - Tailgate
    Lower, remove lower tailgate hinge
    bolts one at a time and apply
    silicon sealant around the threads
    before re-fitting.

  4. Close tailgates and apply water via
    a hose around aperture to confirm
    leaks have been eliminated. Take
    care not to direct hose into
    extraction vents during this test.

In the unlikely event that leaks are still apparent proceed with the
following:

  1. Check upper tailgate profile to 'E' posts. If gaps are uneven, re-align
    tailgate
    with lower tailgate in open position. To correct the gaps, hinge adjustment
    may be required, refer to Workshop Manual, Body - Repairs - Tailgate Upper.
  2. Re-test with water hose to confirm cure.
    PARTS INFORMATION:
    ALR 8547 - Tailgate aperture seal
    WARRANTY CLAIMS:
    Use Complaint Code: 9J4N
    Use one or more of the following SROs:
    76.31.89/34 Dress aperture flange, modify and
    fit new seal and apply sealant to
    hinge bolts
    Time allowance: 0.50 Hrs
    76.28.31 Upper tailgate adjust Time allowance: 1.30 Hrs
16 March 2020 - 00:28

gordonjcp wrote:

Why would you panic-buy bog roll when you can shoplift the Daily Mail? Of course you're risking catching its arse cancer...

lol

16 March 2020 - 06:31

GeorgeB wrote:

We're going through bog rolls like no tomorrow at the moment.

Mind, we had a bout of distemper and the dogs that survived can't go out for another two weeks, so you can imagine...

Thank God for all tiled floors and an understanding, dog-loving cleaner!

eugh

:)

16 March 2020 - 06:33

romanrob wrote:

Either that or a D

d is on the whole ok.

15 March 2020 - 22:55

its tge media and shit like fb and Twitter.

i work in a wholesaler and you would not believe the amount of faces we've never seen before the last weeks.

all buying bog roll and pasta ffs.

leave some for everyone else you fuckin morons

16 March 2020 - 06:33

dave3d wrote:

tanis8472 wrote:

One person in particular was the reason I left

begins with a W ?

funny you should say that
thumbs up :)

16 March 2020 - 17:22

glad to have been able to help.
hopefully she will be ok now.

16 March 2020 - 17:54

Morat wrote:

We use Kitchen Roll for dog disasters - easier to get hold of too!

not now it isn't

feckin idiots

16 March 2020 - 17:55

today the tinned veg, soups, pasta and rice are empty along with all kitchen and toilet roll being empty.

18 March 2020 - 13:38

normally the drive in the boot. electronics go bad.

26 April 2020 - 17:39

No longer available. I tried to get one a couple of months ago

18 March 2020 - 22:56

today i have driven it

27 March 2020 - 21:52

Gilbertd wrote:

It's a 13 way connector with only 12 ways used. The non-memory mirrors only have a 6 way connector so won't be interchangeable. The motors are connected to pins 3 and 5 (Red and Yellow wires) for the left/right motor, pins 2 and 4 (Grey and Blue wires) for the up/down motor. There are also the two feedback potentiometers with the tracks in parallel connected to pins 10 and 13 (Black/Red and White wires) with the wipers connected to pin 11 (Orange wire) for the up/down feedback and pin 12 (Purple wire) for the left/right feedback. So if 12V is applied to pins 2 and 4 (one way round for up, the other way round for down) with an Ohm meter connected between pins 10 and 11, you should see a smoothly varying resistance as the motor drives the mirror up and down. If you do it could be that the track is disconnected at one end so try the same check between pins 11 and 13.

Chances are you won't see a smoothly varying resistance but one that jumps when it reaches the worn part of the track. It might be possible to rescue it for a while if you can get some contact cleaner into the pot but as it is designed to be exposed to the elements it is a sealed unit so it's unlikely you'll be able to get any cleaner inside it. The only thing you can buy is a complete mirror (at £200+), you can't buy individual components other than the glass.

If you do manage to get it working it'll be a first as I don't know of anyone that has ever managed to fix them. The mirrors are large enough that they can be adjusted so you can see what is behind you and still see the ground behind the car. Many people set their mirrors so the horizon is across the middle of the mirror but as you don't really need to see following aircraft, they can be tilted downwards so you still see what is behind you but see the ground too.

thats how mine are set :)

03 April 2020 - 18:54

I'd be more inclined to agree with her.
My Mrs is immunosuppresed so is locked up at home. I'm still having to go to work.

Lots of folk are trying to justify doing lots of things.

Sorry to disagree

07 April 2020 - 12:26

Wow, your really going to town.

14 April 2020 - 10:23

The best thing about using microcat on pc is the database contain most vin numbers so can give correct part for individual vehicle. The online ones don't:)

14 April 2020 - 07:19

Nope. Don't fancy it lol

22 April 2020 - 18:17

The lock barrel is held in by a roll pin.
I'm not saying do it, but I've heard of fold drilling pin out the using a new one to lock it in again.

24 April 2020 - 17:40

enter image description here

https://i.imgur.com/n6atjRT.jpg