Still ok. :)
I'm just in the process of uploading RAVE for 1995-1996 P38's to my 4shared site.
It has wiring diagrams etc for the early p38's which is invaluable as they changed later on.
https://www.4shared.com/folder/AeKGCtKj/RAVE-1996.html
Its archived using 7zip. Sorry, but couldnt use anything else as most dont allow splitting of archives.
It will run just by double clicking on the Rave executable in the root folder on any windows version and also using wine on linux.
Just an update.
It seems to be behaving now. Not had a problem sinc emy last post, although I do think the battery might be slowly on its way out.
Its reading 12.5v in the morning. Am keeping an eye on it. I bought a cigar lighter voltage reader for £3.60 delivered. It reads the same as my VM at the battery.
The fusebox I bought, had a burned out fan relay and board under it. So much for being tested.
Sent it back for full refund.
I also fitted a new new voltage regulator and brushes to a spare alternator I have and changed it last week. Its now reading 14.2 v at idle.
I think the setpoint for these BMW engines was set at 13.9v which was fine for older batteries with less calcium in them.
This is the part i used if it helps anyone.
Dont use the wheel nuts. Way too much torque going through them.
Well she is not using any coolant, apart from a tiny amount due to top hose on rad not being tight.
Got another hose coming to sit in my parts bin inm the boot. Just in case.
Happy days
Yep, that'll put it into hard fault as its not seeing correct pressure increase over time.
You may still have leaks withing the valve block. Internal on the valve orings,
Easy enough to repair just need to be methodical and very clean.
They are sluggish, but a Ronbox or remap makes a huge difference.
Personally I think mine is top damper rubber.
But as I can't get the bloody thing off I can't tell for definite.
:)
I've also got a similar annoying noise.
It drives me bloody crazy
Well battery was reading 12.6v this afternoon and still no problems.
Started easily.
Double checked the voltage drops too. All seem to be in parameters.
I've got the second fusebox here which, I will hopefully, fit tomorrow afternoon.
Electricary is really annoying :(
And no, I don't mean the sink lol
Yeah, it's not just batteries.
I've now got to plumb in a new plug in the bathroom sink. It lasted just over a year. Ffs
Any ideas where I can get it tested?
Well, ive put the battery on charge for last couple of days and refitted it today.
No error messages
Yet!!!!
My battery does not seem to be taking a full charge according to my charger.
It was a new Exide battery in February 2018
Thanks marty
Well, it's also draining battery. It's now indoors recharging.
Believe it or not, the cover has all four clips still on it :)
Yep got correct one coming. I've got a copy of lr original parts catalogue that uses VIN number.
romanrob wrote:
E252 RH footwell panel - that's the earth point for most of what you say is playing up, although it is common to a few other things, like fuel filler cap. ETM Z5 view 56
It looks OK, although I haven't unscrewed it. The fuel filler cap works btw.
I'm going to have another look tomorrow and try tracing the earth point more closely.
PS,
Ive got a second hand fusebox on order to test.
Should be here by friday.
Looks like I'm using Shanks' Pony for a while :(
Thanks guys,
Headlight low beam is on permanently regardless of switch position.
Main beam does not work at all. Won't flash or stay on main beam.
The BeCM is bone dry and ive had the connectors out and all look clean.
I did do a coolant change with water pump and thermostat not long before. I dont recall getting any cooland around there.
I did use a pressure washer under the bonnet but only around the other side of engine to get some oil off the engine mount.
I do have the usual problem of wet pollen filter and leak, but thats other side too.
Ive reposted with better info