Welcome to the Pub!
If you are good at mechanics and electrical, you are in luck, because P-38s need little to no bodywork, or welding (Avoid trees)
and plenty of quality time spent tracking down electrical gremlins. Mechanically, they are really very basic and not a real drain on your time.
Pay attention to the niggling issues and you can prevent them from becoming big problems. Ignore them, and get hauled home on a tilt tray!
The 4.6 V8 tows like a dream, especially with the EAS intact. Running on LPG is a great option. I wish we had the infrastructure to do it here in the States! I have done extensive off road towing with up to 4000 pounds of batteries on trailer. No issues at all. Great TC.
I have an Tdi300 in my Classic, and whilst it is a bit doggy, it gets fantastic fuel economy, and tows the Champ on a 2 axle trailer up and down the hills of S.E. Oz with ease.
Never had the opportunity to drive a P-38 diesel, but as was mentioned, re mapping them seems to give them
decent performance.
I have a random leak from somewhere at the rear of the engine.
I can go weeks (or days) with no coolant loss, then it will suddenly decide to leak from a few drops to a 6 inch puddle.
Only happens when cold..........I did a 1500 mile trip a few weeks back, and it did not loose a bit of coolant.
Cannot seem to find just where from........Thinking head gasket or freeze plug since I believe those are the
only sources of coolant back at the Rt rear corner?
Question is: with gasket or plug, would this issue come and go, or should it be constant?
Aloha Gene,
Thanks for the link, but $78.50?? Robbery!
Dirt cheap!
I cannot even find a pair of transistors for 9 bucks!
Will try one soon!
Thanks!
Tom
Ahhhh...... Sleep......As far as forums go, my brains are still set to Hawaii time.....even after not posting from there for 5 years now. (12 hour time diff.)
It just seems you are always on line either here or there.....no matter if I was in Calif, Oz or Hawaii.
On another note, Is it just me, or has .net become P-38 Kindergarten lately?
Between "RichardG" and Escape, you ARE the forum!.........Good job!
Back to topic: I will grab a few speed controllers when I see them. Lots of pick your own type wreckers nearby!
Dang!! Gilbert! Ya beat me to it!....Do you ever sleep?
+1 on the speed controller circuit. I replaced the RH blower on mine 2 days ago. Same issue. 20 bucks from the wrecking yard for a blower
and all is well.
I was going to see if I can find an equivalent replacement transistor and re build the controller.
Seems to me there was a thread about this on the dark side....now sadly not worth the effort to search the quagmire.
Being in California.........not really.....(Sorry to hear about the untimely end to your cheep sink drain)
What I can recommend is going to an old battery shop with a bunch of grey haired battery anoraks in residence......
They will probably have a real battery load bank out the back. Probably designed and built in the early part of the last century.....
Sort of like some of us! This is a tester that needs a cart, has huge leads, and usually a big rheostat to turn up the load and a
couple of meters to tell you what is up! It would not look at all out of place in an old Frankenstein movie.
(The tester that is, not some of us!.....well....maybe some.....)
The small handhelds which put a tiny load on the battery and extrapolate its Cca and reserve are just too easy to fool.
I have seen up to a 50% error rate with them in both directions.......They do look cool tho' and some will even spit out a little ticket
telling you a fairy tale about your battery....
To be slightly fair, when they do happen to guess correctly, they are pretty good at it.
Remember:
With batteries in these days of "Build it down to a price point, not up to a spec"........"New" does not necessarily equal "Good"
Have it load tested with a proper resistive load bank tester if possible (Not one of the pocket digital jobs!)
Ahhhh........
So, lots of water splashing about, added to an old fusebox with a cover that probably has 1 or 2 clips left and a dried out seal on the lid.....
I killed a slightly dodgy old one on the Borrego doing an waterpump as well.....It only takes a couple of drops getting in to destroy it and cause the types of gremlins you mention. very easy to do when filling coolant.
With luck that will be it, and you can pootle on happily!
Oh, be sure you are getting the correct fusebox as i believe the diesel version is it's own critter.....(No diesels over on this side of the ditch.)
Nope.
Sounds like a major earth fault and/ or a super screwed up fuse board under the bonnet.
What seemingly innocent thing did you do just before things started acting up? Wash the car? Drive through a puddle? rainy day? Change battery?
Has water gotten to the under bonnet fuse box? You will not necessarily see the damage as it would be under the top cover on the PC board.
Have you unplugged and checked all of the many plugs on the Becm for corrosion? Just a bit of liquid on the plugs will cause it to go totally berserk!
Have you run the electrical checks posted on the dark side forum (.net) ??
Spend some quality time under the RH seat and report back.........
EDIT:
Just read your other thread......"There is also a burning smell in fusebox"...............Hmmmmmmm.........Possibly a good place to start? All of the above still applies.....
BTW. The only "watertight" plugs are the ones under the fusebox....and they will hold any water that comes in from the non watertight lid very effectively. Fizzzvrrrzzzttt!
Perhaps not so perfect........
From the Damage history report, seems it had a reportable prang in 2006........
In any event, "Worth 55k"? Not likely, but the "Unicorn" that just went was almost certainly a mule and not worth nearly the 45k the buyer paid.
(He is very happy with it tho' so who are we to toss cold water on him?)
That said, it is up for sale in La La land, where folks have many more dollars than sense.........We shall see......
From the supplied history:
"State or municipal has reported an accident or collision that may sustain damage. Not all damage events are reported to AutoCheck and the damage severity of reported events will vary. In all events AutoCheck recommends that prospective vehicle purchasers conduct a detailed vehicle inspection prior to purchase of a pre-owned vehicle."
Well,
From the total lack of photos of the interior, etc. I suspect he knows the window sticker price, and that it has low miles,
You do not have to be The Great Carnak to come up with the 55k price...........
Oh, I don't know.......
An suspiciously........possibly...........may- have- been- reconstructed one with similar miles recently went for, I believe about 45k.....
I still do not buy into that one.........Underside was tooooo dirty. Mine with 149.5k is tidier than it was.....
Gilbert pointed out the interior was the wrong colour from the window sticker as well.......Hmmmmmmm
This one could be legit. Looks like "Dad passed away, and his old car was in the garage" kind of thing.
No plates, lot's of dust, and seller is not making a big deal about it, obviously knows nothing about it.
No dings? How about perished rubber everything?
Heck, if money was no object, I would love to have it! (Money IS an object tho')
Interesting......What Series and Episode is this?
I would like to see this over here in Calif. Sure I can find it,
Cheers
Thanks for the timely advice.
I was able to dig down the necessary 3 layers to get the little bugger out. No problems at all. About 45 min job all up.
As it was apart, I used the opportunity to test the Hvac controller and radio head unit I had recently purchased from the wrecking yard.
(Radio good, Hvac very bad)
Now that I think more about this little time bomb, I should have done it years ago! Talk about something stupid
that can strand you somewhere at any time! I may just do the Borrego to save someone else the possible headache.
Gilbert, I now recall the thread you sent fully....I also recall laughing at Toadie when I read it! Thanks for refreshing my memory.
Aloha Gents,
I rang the parts guys and they were happy to look it up for me.
Turns out the code was set to "0000" thus, no code needed. Cool eh?
Tested good, so it's off to Hawaii. Sat nav works as well, so it will go into Borrego to make it complete and stock.
Odd point....New satnav has a female voice and defaults to German language randomly on power up....
I thought "James" was always a male voice unless he went "Rainbow" on us?
Climate control was toast, and I have not had the time to test the DSP amp yet. Still a good day at the breakers!
Thanks for the quick responses!
It turns out an old parts guy here that used to help me with parts for my Austin Champ back in the 70's is now the regional parts guru for land rover.
I will ring him in the ,morning. I am sure he would trust me with the secret code for this valuable piece of technology (wink)
Aloha,
I just got back from the breakers with a radio, dsp, climate control, and a Gps head unit. A good haul.
The radio is from an 02, and is for a mate in Hawaii.
I have the vin from the donor car, so what is the best way to get the code?
I seem to recall a thread about this on .net, but cannot find it now.
Cheers!
Thanks.
Seems I noticed the 3 amigos stayed lit a few seconds longer than usual last night after dinner.
they went out as I braked at a roundabout........Said to the missus: Now thay's odd.... the abs lights usually go out much sooner.....
Like many things with these beasts, they give you subtle warnings before stranding you in the dark.
Ignore them at your peril!
Does the shift solenoid come out from the bottom or top?
Yep! that's the fix.
I can get into it here in the morning.
It was odd......the message center gave me a false message about the brakelight..... it is fine, but it will occasional tell me it is out.
Simultaneously, it locked the shifter. Hopefully Richard can enlighten us as to the common issue affecting both?
Seems like a wire-is-loose kind of problem affecting the becm....maybe?
Aloha,
On a roadtrip to So California ........
just had an event at petrol station. The shifter was locked in park.
I was able to convince it to work, but now fear it may play up with wife driving.
the other side had a recent thread on best way to disable the interlock......now sadly missing.
In a nutshell, what is the best way to get going again when this happens?
I know it is an electrical issue rather than mechanical. The message center said lh brake light bulb failure at the time it happened.
possibly the becm got confused?
thanks,
Tom