Well,
From the total lack of photos of the interior, etc. I suspect he knows the window sticker price, and that it has low miles,
You do not have to be The Great Carnak to come up with the 55k price...........

Oh, I don't know.......
An suspiciously........possibly...........may- have- been- reconstructed one with similar miles recently went for, I believe about 45k.....
I still do not buy into that one.........Underside was tooooo dirty. Mine with 149.5k is tidier than it was.....
Gilbert pointed out the interior was the wrong colour from the window sticker as well.......Hmmmmmmm
This one could be legit. Looks like "Dad passed away, and his old car was in the garage" kind of thing.
No plates, lot's of dust, and seller is not making a big deal about it, obviously knows nothing about it.
No dings? How about perished rubber everything?
Heck, if money was no object, I would love to have it! (Money IS an object tho')

Interesting......What Series and Episode is this?
I would like to see this over here in Calif. Sure I can find it,
Cheers

Thanks for the timely advice.
I was able to dig down the necessary 3 layers to get the little bugger out. No problems at all. About 45 min job all up.
As it was apart, I used the opportunity to test the Hvac controller and radio head unit I had recently purchased from the wrecking yard.
(Radio good, Hvac very bad)
Now that I think more about this little time bomb, I should have done it years ago! Talk about something stupid
that can strand you somewhere at any time! I may just do the Borrego to save someone else the possible headache.
Gilbert, I now recall the thread you sent fully....I also recall laughing at Toadie when I read it! Thanks for refreshing my memory.

Aloha Gents,
I rang the parts guys and they were happy to look it up for me.
Turns out the code was set to "0000" thus, no code needed. Cool eh?
Tested good, so it's off to Hawaii. Sat nav works as well, so it will go into Borrego to make it complete and stock.
Odd point....New satnav has a female voice and defaults to German language randomly on power up....
I thought "James" was always a male voice unless he went "Rainbow" on us?
Climate control was toast, and I have not had the time to test the DSP amp yet. Still a good day at the breakers!

Thanks for the quick responses!
It turns out an old parts guy here that used to help me with parts for my Austin Champ back in the 70's is now the regional parts guru for land rover.
I will ring him in the ,morning. I am sure he would trust me with the secret code for this valuable piece of technology (wink)

Aloha,
I just got back from the breakers with a radio, dsp, climate control, and a Gps head unit. A good haul.
The radio is from an 02, and is for a mate in Hawaii.
I have the vin from the donor car, so what is the best way to get the code?
I seem to recall a thread about this on .net, but cannot find it now.
Cheers!

Thanks.
Seems I noticed the 3 amigos stayed lit a few seconds longer than usual last night after dinner.
they went out as I braked at a roundabout........Said to the missus: Now thay's odd.... the abs lights usually go out much sooner.....
Like many things with these beasts, they give you subtle warnings before stranding you in the dark.
Ignore them at your peril!
Does the shift solenoid come out from the bottom or top?

Yep! that's the fix.
I can get into it here in the morning.
It was odd......the message center gave me a false message about the brakelight..... it is fine, but it will occasional tell me it is out.
Simultaneously, it locked the shifter. Hopefully Richard can enlighten us as to the common issue affecting both?
Seems like a wire-is-loose kind of problem affecting the becm....maybe?

Aloha,
On a roadtrip to So California ........
just had an event at petrol station. The shifter was locked in park.
I was able to convince it to work, but now fear it may play up with wife driving.
the other side had a recent thread on best way to disable the interlock......now sadly missing.
In a nutshell, what is the best way to get going again when this happens?
I know it is an electrical issue rather than mechanical. The message center said lh brake light bulb failure at the time it happened.
possibly the becm got confused?
thanks,
Tom

Errrrr......Just what heater pipes run the full length of the car?
Reason I ask is I have a niggling intermittent leak at the rearish left rear of the corner of the engine.
I have not delved into it yet but there is a small pipe up there that is suspiciously moist.

Hey, Richard.....Or should I say "Don"? .......I note you are still beating the Mods up over there!
Good onya!
I also note that much like a stone windmill, the mods seem to be actively not answering your questions (Except for the 2 letters and a space)
It was nice of LLtrucking to chime in and let us know who the real dolts are! Verticalscope must have been invaded (infested?) by "Venture Capitalists"
Thus the push to make it "attractive" to a more upscale clientele.........
Very nice to see that the info is not really lost to us all! Just not where we left it.....kinda like our car keys.....(wink)
Carry on Chaps!

First,
It will not be the Becm. It is waaaayyyyy too common to leap to the conclusion that the Becm is at fault.
At the top of this very forum you will find this:
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/5-info-front-door-latch-tests

It is a comprehensive test procedure for this problem.
The tailgate push button intermittently not working is a symptom of the RH latch having an
intermittent issue, as the power for it runs through this one.

Morat, I do agree that this is a far superior forum........
Watching the disintegration of .net has a sort of morbid fascination......Kinda like a slow motion train wreck.......
Heckling the admins as Richard (and to a lesser extent, myself) have been doing is just a bit of fun, sort of a competition to see who can get banned first?!.
If it causes any kind of change for the better?......Hmmmm......What's the opposite of "Collateral damage"?
There are lots of folks out there who will stick with what they know and never find their way here.
It is sad that .net has lost 98% of it's best folks and virtually 100% of it's knowledge base. It's great that it is all here!
Who's got the next round?

That thing is just so totally BLACK it hurts the eyes! Gorgeous! could be CIA it's so black!
Great job!
It seems that after tossing a stun grenade, and mashing the "Cricket" under the 'ole boot heel, the moronic mods at .net have finally begun to realize just which parts of the forum have been pitched into the bin!
Let's see if they put them back now?
Swore to myself I was done with .net, but could not stand it any more.........I am stunned that they did not take down my post and ban me.
Just proves these are true software engineers....I have found over the years that they are virtually impossible to insult.......Totally clueless.....(smile, wink)

There are all sorts of possibilities......Horizontal mills were used when there was not enough vertical fall for an overshot wheel.
They were not very efficient.....
Ducted screws likewise need some vertical fall to work well, and tend to be higher speed. I have seen a few very good ones in Idaho.
We need pictures!! Sounds like a seriously useful waste of time and effort! (and a great excuse to go to France!)
Since you guys are being so well surveiled over there, perhaps a google earth shot of the site?....Just wear your hoodie!

Hey! Nice photo..........
So YOU are the vending solutions mob?! I knew it! (kidding)
San Francisco?? Again, you are in luck!
Seems I will be selling my Borrego soon, and I happen to be just up the hill from San Fran!
A bright yellow P-38 is virtually Zombie proof! (Well known fact: Zombies are allergic to Yellow)
When the apocalypse hits, you will be ready!
Oh, and it used to be "Flowers in your hair", but now it's "Flack jacket and Kevlar underwear"

Someone call?
Well, you have just re invented the wheel!
This has been done many times with highly variable results over the years. Remember that it will take about 1.4hp to get 1kw of power
out the wires.....This is in a perfect world, with no friction......Your results will vary.....
I built a rig like this to power up my "Bach" in NZ about 30 years ago. I had a 2 cyl Kawasaki motor from a "Mule 500" (500cc) that
I converted to electric for the customer. Brand new, and I converted it to LPG as well!
Using an 150 amp marine cruising alternator with precision 3 stage regulator, I was able to get about 75 amps consistently. into
400ah worth of flooded batteries. 150 was a real reach for it!
The main issue with automotive alternators and small engines is that, being designed to be small and light, they get their high output
only at high rpm. Not a problem under the bonnet. As they reach their rated HP at about 3600 Rpm or "Flat screech"
as it is called by those around them.......Also, being air cooled, lawn mower engines are difficult to sound proof. Muffler is only 1/2 of the issue.

Lead Acid batteries (Flooded, Gel, and AGM) all share the same basic characteristics in that they will all accept a high amperage charge initially, but their ability to accept the current will fall off rapidly. As the voltage rises, the current will fall.
If you try to shove in more current you will need to raise the voltage to do so. If you exceed about 14.6 (Avg) on a sealed
battery (AGM/Gel) you will damage the battery by causing gassing in excess of what the cells can re absorb. Battery will vent, and the
lost moisture cannot be replaced. Do this enough, and the battery will dry out, and die. Use a quality regulator with sealed batteries!
Mechanically, some of the best ones I have seen are direct drive. If you have a deck type mower, just remove blade and couple up alternator.
Belts are tricky unless you go with flat or cogged types they will usually slip. Also, the main bearings on a lawnmower engine are
not designed for side loading, and there is a LOT of side loading if you want to transfer 3-5hp. so straight shaft will last longer as well.
Running 2 in parallel is not really a problem, aside from the mechanical complexity. In your case here, Richard is correct. There will need to be a battery in parallel with the inverter. If you tried to run directly, the noise alone (Electrical) would probably do in a cheepo high frequency
transformer-less switching inverter. Further, as the alternator will need B+ to make power, if there is no battery it will not excite the field.
The "Inverter" generators you see on the market today are high voltage DC generators that use a trick inverter to hold frequency and
voltage stable over a surprisingly wide RPM range. Honda does this best..........If I wanted a small, efficient, quiet, stable genset,
I would buy one of those.....
Having said that....I would be happy to share any tips on a home brew! It's fun, if not really practical......
Hmmmmm There are those who say that about P-38s!

OH! as for the French mill?? Let me know, I will fly over to help! Hydro is the BEST form of renewable energy, and a typical 1800's grain mill will give
you about 10kw/hr of energy, with a LOT of torque, so it will not stall! If the power happens during the winter, do the mill
wheel generator, and run electric heat. For FREE!
Cheers!
Tom

Could not agree more.
Being sort of trapped on the boat in the San Fran Delta by some diabolical weather patterns, we decided 2 weeks ago to take a quick Banzai run up to just South of the Canadian border. I replaced all fluids, as they were due.... including the t-case and trans. (White 02 "Bolt" 147k miles)
Had a high speed run up I-5 at 75-90 mph and then wound down the coast route 101 for the return.
Flawless performance.
I especially appreciate the EAS as some of the high speed sweeping curves on the 101 would be scary at standard height!
7 days, 1350 miles, no dramas! Love these trucks

Welcome to the opposition! Taswegians must be welcome, if they will let a grumpy old Yank in!
I am sure that there will be many more defections in the very near future!
Heck, I do believe Toad is already a member here!
Just looked....Yep # 194 and it's RRTOADHALL in all caps, so I do believe he was serious about it!