I seem to have missed something here......What is this "5 year horizon" you mention?
Been doing "Alternative energy" for 40 years as my day job.
Where appropriate, for off grid applications, it works well indeed, but needs to be "Operated" to a greater or lesser degree.
Grid tie roof top solar is a good start as even though it does not work at night, every Mw produced, is one less produced by nasty old coal.
Remember the golden rule though: For every Mw of renewable energy on a grid, wind, solar, even Hydro.....There MUST be a matching source of Firm power for it. (Coal, Gas, Nuke, Very large batteries)
So, electric cars really are part of the solution IF they are charged at home from dedicated PV systems. NOT from the Nat. Grid.
(They still have a HUGE carbon footprint tho')
For the future?
I like Salt!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molten_salt_reactor
Climate change denier? Certainly not.
I have spent a lot of time in the last 40 years doing meteorology, and ocean sciences study.
My take:
1 Is the climate changing? Yes
2 Does the climate change over time? Yes. This change takes place over various time scales from seasons to centuries.
3 Are humans, by introducing carbon to the atmosphere causing climate change? No
(However there is a LOT of $$ to be made by saying we are solely responsible for planetary warming.)
4 Are we, by introducing carbon to the atmosphere contributing to, or accelerating the current warming cycle? Possibly.
5 Is there any practical way to stop or even reverse the current trend? No
Theoretically, to effect any type of change in the trend line towards warming would require the total shut down of all fossil fuel use GLOBALLY
and like....Tomorrow. Sorry, not gonna happen. Let's say it did? still, on a natural warming trend. Shoot, England is still
warming from the last little ice age you had not too long ago!
Good point about the youth movement tho' Try to get your kids to wear only organic hand loomed hemp fiber clothes, no mobile devices
as they are petroleum dependent, no synthetic fibers at all. No objects made of steel or any metals at all for that matter as their production
requires fossil fuels.....
So, NO cars. Period. Planet wide. How long would it take to make that transition without the world economy totally collapsing?
To conclude:
I see the issues on all sides. I have no solution.
Great debate material though!
Behind the door cards? As a matter of fact, you have a very efficient noise generator indeed! A speaker.....Now, this is a stretch, since Range Rover electrics are so solid and reliable, but what if the speaker is thumping....a bit of corrosion somewhere? if a "Low end" stereo, try unplugging the door amp fuse.
If High line, pull all the fuses that run the DSP amp. The issue could just be a bit of random static. I believe the amps are always on in the doors?
Marty?
Both of mine are Dsp, and I have had a few instances where you get a low pitched pop from a speaker when you turn on the key.
Also, the factory sat nav can introduce some interesting sound effects.
Or........ you have an active blend motor, and a sticking door....whirrr-thump.....repeat......
Yea, the Push to totally eliminate evil 'ole Carbon is certainly gaining momentum as a selling point for the 24 hour News outlets.....
Gotta keep folks entertained, and in fear or they will switch channels.
Having spent my working life in the Alternative Energy Industry (Designer/ installer for off grid power systems) I have seen Batteries come and go, as well as Fuel cell madness come and go. Fuel cells are now quietly working. I want to see an Hydrogen burning V8, not a fuel cell electric.
I have, over the years, built (Converted) 3 vehicles from petrol to electric. Not tough, or particularly costly......
I completely agree that the issue is the enormous amount of energy needed to crack water for Hydrogen far outstrips the gains. Like electric, it just shifts the pollution from tailpipe to smokestack.
Electric only begins to make sense when ALL of the energy for your car is produced AT HOME by non polluting means.
Interesting side note: The "Carbon footprint" of an Prius is actually higher than a P-38 over a 20 year operational cycle.
This includes resources needed to build both, and fuel / electricity to run them. The deal killer is the Li batteries, which have a massive carbon footprint from mining to installation. A inconvenient truth, totally overlooked by the smug folks in their hybrids.
Oh, and Li batteries are not currently recyclable, as far as I am aware.......Only 5% of all Li batteries in EU are recycled. (2% in US and Oz)
As the energy needed to smelt and refine a Prius battery would probably power it for about 50k miles......
In case you are really interested in the issue:
https://cen.acs.org/materials/energy-storage/time-serious-recycling-lithium/97/i28
But I digress.......Assuming availability of Hydrogen, just how tough would it be to run a V8 on it? Possibly dual fuel? H2 and Petrol?
HA! Good luck with that one......Let us know how long the momentum lasts? Till Greta's boat goes down in a storm perhaps?
So, you guys think you have it bad?
Try living in California! The Numpties have taken over, and it looks bad for ICE powered dinosaurs here!
This is one of the many reasons why we are upping sticks and shifting base to Oregon, where (Relatively) saner
minds are still in control.
In the meantime, I have been doodling with an electric conversion for an P-38.........
No plans to build one until necessary, but oddly, it is doable. 10 years out, it may be more doable.....
So, as you folks have a vast knowledge base for Lpg powered ICE, how about a slight mod and using
Hydrogen in place of LP? I know some folks who have been using home made Hydrogen for stoves and heaters
for years. I have seen a standard generator running on Hydrogen using Lpg system as well.
We are seeing Hydrogen filling stations popping up here in Calif.......
I know you need a SS exhaust as the products of combustion are water....
Gilbertd wrote:
Bolt wrote:
Question for the gallery: Can you drive on 3 well inflated bags in case of catastrophic failure of one?
You can but it'll sit at a very funny angle with the diagonally opposite corner being high.
Best (only) deal for emergency valves is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P38-RANGE-ROVER-AIR-SUSPENSION-SYSTEM-EAS-EMERGENCY-VALVES-SET/272726482487
Although I've got a couple of serviceable air springs, I have never carried them with me. I suppose if someone was doing a lot of serious off road stuff (or running Arnotts) it would be a good idea but not with Dunlops under normal use.
Well, as I am indeed running genII Arnotts, it is indeed just prudent. Also, as towing here si nowhere close to yours, I carry spares.......
Ya can't be too careful!
Thanks, I will have a look.
Did about 600 mi in `14 hours straight yesterday, and used precisely No coolant.......errrgh!
Back home on the weekend, and will have a better look
Cheers!
Oh, yea......EAS Rocks! etc......Forgot to mention....Whilst I trust the system, I do
carry a spare rear and front bag with me as well......They fit inside the wheel of the spare along with the spare belt,
Cps, and a used but servicable T-stat.........The Nano lives in the cubby.......I may forget to bring my phone on a trip, but NEVER forget the Nano!
I have been intending to get a set of schraders as well.......Any good deals on them about?
Question for the gallery: Can you drive on 3 well inflated bags in case of catastrophic failure of one?
"welcome to the forum don't be shy of springs"............Says a Tazweegian Aka: "Madas"
I have 2 -2002's with similar mileage. One with EAS, and one with "Good quality" springs. The difference is striking when you do a bumpy road back to back.
EAS just soaks them up, and springs......not so much.
I have also done fast sweeping corners and hairpins in both, and the EAS just feels solid, especially when it drops itself to Highway mode.
Given a choice, (and in all fairness, the pickings are a bit slim in Tazzie,) If you can get one still on Air, you may curse us, a bit, but you will not regret it!
Oh, and pulling a trailer? Tongue weight just does not matter, you will be level, and more importantly safer with EAS.
OK, stepping off soapbox now.........
Welcome to the Pub!
If you are good at mechanics and electrical, you are in luck, because P-38s need little to no bodywork, or welding (Avoid trees)
and plenty of quality time spent tracking down electrical gremlins. Mechanically, they are really very basic and not a real drain on your time.
Pay attention to the niggling issues and you can prevent them from becoming big problems. Ignore them, and get hauled home on a tilt tray!
The 4.6 V8 tows like a dream, especially with the EAS intact. Running on LPG is a great option. I wish we had the infrastructure to do it here in the States! I have done extensive off road towing with up to 4000 pounds of batteries on trailer. No issues at all. Great TC.
I have an Tdi300 in my Classic, and whilst it is a bit doggy, it gets fantastic fuel economy, and tows the Champ on a 2 axle trailer up and down the hills of S.E. Oz with ease.
Never had the opportunity to drive a P-38 diesel, but as was mentioned, re mapping them seems to give them
decent performance.
I have a random leak from somewhere at the rear of the engine.
I can go weeks (or days) with no coolant loss, then it will suddenly decide to leak from a few drops to a 6 inch puddle.
Only happens when cold..........I did a 1500 mile trip a few weeks back, and it did not loose a bit of coolant.
Cannot seem to find just where from........Thinking head gasket or freeze plug since I believe those are the
only sources of coolant back at the Rt rear corner?
Question is: with gasket or plug, would this issue come and go, or should it be constant?
Aloha Gene,
Thanks for the link, but $78.50?? Robbery!
Dirt cheap!
I cannot even find a pair of transistors for 9 bucks!
Will try one soon!
Thanks!
Tom
Ahhhh...... Sleep......As far as forums go, my brains are still set to Hawaii time.....even after not posting from there for 5 years now. (12 hour time diff.)
It just seems you are always on line either here or there.....no matter if I was in Calif, Oz or Hawaii.
On another note, Is it just me, or has .net become P-38 Kindergarten lately?
Between "RichardG" and Escape, you ARE the forum!.........Good job!
Back to topic: I will grab a few speed controllers when I see them. Lots of pick your own type wreckers nearby!
Dang!! Gilbert! Ya beat me to it!....Do you ever sleep?
+1 on the speed controller circuit. I replaced the RH blower on mine 2 days ago. Same issue. 20 bucks from the wrecking yard for a blower
and all is well.
I was going to see if I can find an equivalent replacement transistor and re build the controller.
Seems to me there was a thread about this on the dark side....now sadly not worth the effort to search the quagmire.
Being in California.........not really.....(Sorry to hear about the untimely end to your cheep sink drain)
What I can recommend is going to an old battery shop with a bunch of grey haired battery anoraks in residence......
They will probably have a real battery load bank out the back. Probably designed and built in the early part of the last century.....
Sort of like some of us! This is a tester that needs a cart, has huge leads, and usually a big rheostat to turn up the load and a
couple of meters to tell you what is up! It would not look at all out of place in an old Frankenstein movie.
(The tester that is, not some of us!.....well....maybe some.....)
The small handhelds which put a tiny load on the battery and extrapolate its Cca and reserve are just too easy to fool.
I have seen up to a 50% error rate with them in both directions.......They do look cool tho' and some will even spit out a little ticket
telling you a fairy tale about your battery....
To be slightly fair, when they do happen to guess correctly, they are pretty good at it.
Remember:
With batteries in these days of "Build it down to a price point, not up to a spec"........"New" does not necessarily equal "Good"
Have it load tested with a proper resistive load bank tester if possible (Not one of the pocket digital jobs!)
Ahhhh........
So, lots of water splashing about, added to an old fusebox with a cover that probably has 1 or 2 clips left and a dried out seal on the lid.....
I killed a slightly dodgy old one on the Borrego doing an waterpump as well.....It only takes a couple of drops getting in to destroy it and cause the types of gremlins you mention. very easy to do when filling coolant.
With luck that will be it, and you can pootle on happily!
Oh, be sure you are getting the correct fusebox as i believe the diesel version is it's own critter.....(No diesels over on this side of the ditch.)
Nope.
Sounds like a major earth fault and/ or a super screwed up fuse board under the bonnet.
What seemingly innocent thing did you do just before things started acting up? Wash the car? Drive through a puddle? rainy day? Change battery?
Has water gotten to the under bonnet fuse box? You will not necessarily see the damage as it would be under the top cover on the PC board.
Have you unplugged and checked all of the many plugs on the Becm for corrosion? Just a bit of liquid on the plugs will cause it to go totally berserk!
Have you run the electrical checks posted on the dark side forum (.net) ??
Spend some quality time under the RH seat and report back.........
EDIT:
Just read your other thread......"There is also a burning smell in fusebox"...............Hmmmmmmm.........Possibly a good place to start? All of the above still applies.....
BTW. The only "watertight" plugs are the ones under the fusebox....and they will hold any water that comes in from the non watertight lid very effectively. Fizzzvrrrzzzttt!
Perhaps not so perfect........
From the Damage history report, seems it had a reportable prang in 2006........
In any event, "Worth 55k"? Not likely, but the "Unicorn" that just went was almost certainly a mule and not worth nearly the 45k the buyer paid.
(He is very happy with it tho' so who are we to toss cold water on him?)
That said, it is up for sale in La La land, where folks have many more dollars than sense.........We shall see......
From the supplied history:
"State or municipal has reported an accident or collision that may sustain damage. Not all damage events are reported to AutoCheck and the damage severity of reported events will vary. In all events AutoCheck recommends that prospective vehicle purchasers conduct a detailed vehicle inspection prior to purchase of a pre-owned vehicle."