They were going to pump nitrogen into a gassed system to pressure test it??? Yikes!
When the car is off, the high and low sides will equalise, and as long as there is any liquid R-134 in the system, it will show the same pressure.
Pressure will be vary, and is determined by ambient temp.
As soon as the system is active, it will suck the vapor through the compressor, and condenser will cool it into liquid, then through the expansion valve in the
evaporator, and cold happens! This is when the high side versus low side pressures will tell you if additional gas is needed.
If there is not enough gas in the system, things will still work, but not as well. When it gets down too low, the trinary switch kills the
power to the compressor so as not to damage it. Thus, when things nudge above 35 or so, it just blows coolish air at you as it is short cycling.
Here in the US of A, we are still allowed to re gas our own vehicles. In OZ, they practically panicked and called the cops when I inquired about purchasing a can of R-134.....
I am guessing that over there in Borris land, like OZ you are not allowed to do your own..........Possibly after Brexit? ;)

Hmmmmm....
Just tried a post. As of right now, seems to be instant for me.
In the last few weeks, there have been several times I have seen that the last post shown on the right side, is not the last post on the thread. Quite a
delay for some to show up. Possibly there is a "White list" and all others need to be moderated?
I have noticed that over the last 6 months or so, that TH has gone from very present to very vaguely present, with somewhat incoherent posts, to virtually non existent.
As much as he can tend to be a bit "Heavy handed" when he perceives he has been provoked, I do hope he is ok?

Hey Marty,
Good to know it is NTC......I have a bag of 10k PTC parts here (10k @25c) and was going to try one on the Borrego........Nano says temp sensor is bad, but HVAC works fine?
Do you know if the outside temp sensor is same?

For those not Geekier enuf' NTC is Negative Temperature Coefficient. PTC is Positive. Means resistance falls or rises with temp change.
Thermistors cost about 5 of whatever currency you want to use....Cheap as Chips!

Update on the pads and rotors.......
It took the shipper a extra week to get them to me, but now I have them on, and have done about 4k miles with them, I have to say I am very happy with them! As far as the rumored noise goes? Not a single peep from them. Dust is no more than normal
I gave them a proper bedding in around town and have done 4 round trips to the San Francisco bay area in the last month, each about 800miles RT.
Zero issues with noise, or fade after a couple of 95mph to zero quick stops! (I-5 through central Calif is NUTS to drive!)

Off topic, but the Borrego has also had exactly Zero issues in lots of mixed driving in the last 3 months! Averaging 19.8 Mpg with a lot of 85-90mph stretches. (And those are the small USA Gallons! :) Just gotta get to my parts stash in Hawaii and get the needed bits for EAS.

Well, thanks for all the input.
We will see how the EBC UM 2s work here in California.......I believe I have Greens or Yellows on my 02 in Hawaii, and they are great.
If they are noisy? they are quick and cheap to replace.
I will certainly update the thread as the situation warrants.
Cheers!

Well, I will report back when I have installed them......Just ordered, as the front rotors I am on now are kinda scary looking!
At the very least, I have been assured the rotors are as advertised, and UK build, not China.
Nothing fancy here, and if the pads are noisy? Pretty easy to change. I used these pads on my 02 in Hawaii, and liked them.
Any horror stories are appreciated however!

Thanks for the quick response.
A bit of digging on their site,and I found the difference.
The "6 Vin" parts are for Disco.
Odd, since I thought the Disco used the same brake parts as well?
Learn sommit new every day!
Cheers!

Aloha all,
I posted this on the "Other" forum, so sorry if you are seeing it twice......
Looking forward to hearing the difference in brake parts!
Also, Any issues with basic EBC rotors and Ultimax 2 pads?
Here's the link.....
https://thmotorsports.com/ebc-brakes/ebc-brake-kit-s1-ultimax2-and-rk-rotors/g-71575.aspx
Cheers.
Tom

Aloha,
I have been searching for the last week for someone who can sell me rotors that are not Chinese knock offs.
Frustrating experience!
I am about to buy some Brit made EBC rotors and pads for the Borrrego, and came across an interesting question.
The place I am looking (TH Motorsports) lists brake parts as for:
Position: Front
w/ 4 Engine VIN
or:
Position: Front
w/ 6 Engine VIN

Same thing for rears.

The same kit with slightly different part numbers is a bit more $$ for the 6 Vin........

I was under the impression that the brakes were the same from 95-02?
Anycl ue as to what they are concerned with the engine vin for? I assume this is either a Bosh / Gems thing, or a 4.0 / 4.6 thing........
Looking forward to learning something new!
Cheers

Aloha, and G'day,
I am here in Oz helping a mate with his L322.......Fan got unbalanced, and broke the water pump clean off! (td6)
We are looking for the fan, Pump, and while we are at it, some new rad hoses.
I have found some things at land-rover-parts-shop.com, and others at LRDirect.
What I am after is just which parts are to be avoided.....I already know to steer VERY clear of anything from Britparts.
Any others? or ones that are usually good value?
Being NA based in the past, i have not paid enough attention to you UK guys and where you like to shop. Being in Oz now, I am amazed by
the blatant ripping off of the customer that is practiced by some outfits.
So, who should we be shopping from there?
Oh, yea......The LAST thing I would buy myself would be an L322!!!! P-38's RULE!!!
Cheers,
Tom

Second try at this.....lost my first response.......

It can be done, but it is tricky.
I had to get the door on my 02 open to remove the Becm which had locked the truck down, then went insane.......
Start with a wooden wedge to create a gap between the window and the top of the door.
Next, get a bright light in there. I wedged a bright Led torch in the opening.
Now, get a stiff steel rod with a hook bent on the end, and fish for the plug that attaches the lock to the harness.
I was able to get the thing unplugged without breaking the wires......your results may vary......
Once I had this done, I used a pair of wires attached to a stick to apply 12 volts to the now exposed pins on the locking assembly plug. This is the tricky bit.........
By playing with the polarity of the power, I got it un superlocked, then powered the locking servo motor, and viola!
Open door without damaging anything.
As for the no batteries rule, I would think that an 9 volt transistor battery would probably activate the motors just fine.
(Marty could confirm this?)
Also, I used a current limited short circuit proof power supply to do mine, as you will short the wires whilst trying to hit the correct contacts on the plug. The 9v batt would not be harmed too much by a bit of shorting out.
I suppose you could also use a cordless tool battery in your pocket to beat the no batts rule?
Put a 1 amp circuit breaker in line, or there will be smoke........
If you have access to an old door latch, you could practice before the real thing?
Oh, it took me about 30 min from start to finish.

I assure you it can be done, but I could have just gotten lucky..........Good luck!
Tom

(Well, to be off the ol' P-38 topic a bit...........)
Aloha Colin,
I have a Mate here in Oz who has an 2002 L322 TDV6
Showed him the Nano I have here for my P-38 and he was hooked.........Seems that there is not one available however?
True?
Cheers,
Tom

Hmmmmmmm.......
Interesting that so many P-38 aficionados have a maritime heritage? A trend? A vast conspiracy?
That is one very fine looking Tug!
When I decided to give up the boats with flappy bits and strings you had to pull at 4 AM, I looked at doing a restoration of an old coastal tug that was slowly dissolving in NZ......Too much work and waaaayyyyy too much $$
Love the Waveney Lifeboat we ended up with though.
Oh, yea, Narrow Boats ROCK as well!

Aloha Colin!
It is so good of you to stop by! Your shout?
Nice to know we can get a quick answer to questions about some of the detailed nuances of your really schweet products.
I am currently Cruising in SE Oz, and have my Nanocom aboard the boat. I have used it to help out 2 P38 owners in NZ and 1 here in Oz so far! Great way to meet folks along the way. Turns out that if you can get their P-38 started for them, they will give you many many beers!
Good stuff, and I believe all 3 now have their own units.
Keep up the good work!
Cheers,
Tom

I put in a basic Grom module, that plays from Usb sticks. Works very well. I never used nav, since for Hawaii Island, the DVD has NO ROADS! so can't help you there. I concur though....Nav should not be effected by adding the Grom
In case you want to "have it all", you can use a rotary switch and place this between the Grom, CD changer and head unit.
I put one in my 02 and had Grom, Changer and all!.........Then of course the wretched DSP amp died.......Then the NOS one I installed died.......Currently limping along on one from a Disco. No Sub, No rears......Sighhhhhhhhh
If and when I get done cruising, I am going to get the wiring harness from Marty and swap in separate amps!

Hmmmmm, I could of course get banned for this from somewhere, but it is interesting information, and worth a discussion, as it was news to me.
I will attribute it to Pwood999 form another forum.............

Also when entering keycode, always open & close the door after 2nd attempt. This resets the counter so you don't reach the "3 tries causes lockout" state.

Is this true? I would try it, but my Beloved P-38 is about 6000 miles North of here.........

Whew!
Ya get distracted for just a bit and it all goes pear shaped!
That was a great read! (This Thread) and not really surprising, based upon the personalities involved.
Interesting that it was attributed to "Admin" and not to TH as would have been expected.
Just gotta say GOOD ON YER Gilbert!
Fortunately for me, I had a Brit sense of Humor installed when I was about 16 (Loooong ago!) So I not only Get it, I appreciate your droll wit!
Keep up the GREAT work here, and if the other guys don't want to play? It's their loss!
Just glad I made the "cut" and got an early invite!
Cheers,
Tom

Wow, What a great service!
Not quite as hot here as PI but we have Interstate Battery, and if one of theirs fail, they will Instantly tell you it was obviously your fault and to sod off!
No help- Nowhere- Never!
It is evident that battery failure is much more common there since they have such a great system for getting you back on the road! (Except Mondays?)

Update:
The Chevy "Spark" is so poorly made that I was able to figure out why it smelled funky when I took it from the airport.....
It is a white painted SIEVE! It leaks like a .....Heck! I can't think of anything that leaks worse!, so it leaks like a Chevy Spark!
We had 2 3/4 Inches (70mm?) of rain here last night, and the drivers footwell has 30mm of water sloshing around in it, the back seats are very moist, and the "Boot" is sodden!
Mind you, this is a new car! Getting in this morning after it had been in the sun for a bit was like climbing into a dirty old sweatsock! Whoof!

My 02 has never leaked a drop!

I have made any excuse to drive it this trip, and have done nearly 80 miles....all off sealed roads as it is deregistered.......
It will be sad to put her back in storage for the next 9 months. I will feel good knowing it is here when I come back to visit.

Shoot, in a month or so, I will be in Oz and can pull the 300Tdi powered 85 Classic "Outback Bush Basher" outta mothballs and have fun there!....But that would be another forum.....
Cheers!

Gilbertd wrote:

No doubt Bolt will be able to explain exactly why but I suspect the battery suffers in the heat (just like we do). Actually, it makes sense. When it's really hot we feel like we have no energy so why should the battery be any different?

Truer words were never spoken!

gordonjcp wrote:

But chemical reactions work better when they're hot...

That is basically a true statement, however in the case of a Flooded Lead acid battery (Sealed AGM and Gel as well) this is not a good thing.
There is a thing called thermal runaway that will occur in a battery that is under charge, and very hot. It causes the acid to boil and in extreme cases, the battery can explode or catch fire. I have seen both happen personally......Not pretty, and MAN, the smell!
Another fun fact about Lead acid batteries, is that they will have their lives halved for every 10 deg C above 25 deg C operating temperature.
Bearing this in mind, the first thing I did was remove the cover from the battery to get it more air circulation.
For Roger and the other folks that live where it get's cold enough to make the Brass Monkey nervous, the cover, as well as extra insulation around the battery is a good idea. I have even seen heating mats for under the battery that get plugged into mains at night.

Getting to the charge voltage thing:
For virtually all types of Lead Acid battery the "Gassing Point" is 14.2 volts @ 25 deg C (77 deg F) Getting the voltage above this will accelerate water loss as the H2O in the fluid undergoes electrolysis into it's component parts: Hydrogen and Oxygen.
This is technically not the thermal boiling you get from a runaway, but will cause more than desired water use.

I still want to dissect an alternator regulator for one of these things as I suspect there could be some type of temp comp or 2 stage charging going on here.
The proper recharge curve for a starting battery (Many thin plates for quick high energy) would be to charge to 14.2 - 14.4 for a brief time, like 5 min, and then drop to an "Absorb" voltage of 13.8. This will fully recharge a 12 volt battery without undue gassing. An alternator that holds the voltage above 14.2 constantly will cook the battery more quickly.
As the temperature of the battery rises, you need to lower the voltage as the gassing point drops as temp. increases, so Spiggy seeing 13.8 in Dubai would be consistent with a well designed alternator / regulator.
On the other hand, you need to increase the charge voltage a bit as it get's colder as the Gassing point rises the colder it gets.
Since it seems to be winter for most of you, what are you seeing on a nice brisk 10 deg (-10?) Morning as far as voltage goes?

Of course, the other explanation for the voltage ramping down with heat is that as you get an electromagnet (Alternators have 2) hot, they lose efficiency and the fields become weaker. A happy coincidence for our poor overheated batteries!