Thanks again!
I have sent the info off to Hawaii. He can try it out between Hurricanes..........
Well that explains why you are online as much as you are.......
For the first 4 years I was on the Forum, I worked from home 7 days a week, 12 hours a day.....LOTS of time to read and post!
Now that I am actually retired, I certainly have more time, however, sadly, I will not be spending it on the cartoon circus that .net has suddenly become.
I believe they have also eliminated the Common repairs, shortcuts and specs that have been so meticuliously collected over the years. A true shame.
Whose 8 year old did the design for that heap of crap site? I can't believe someone actually thought it was good enough to use!
I will probably post a farewell message, but I bet ya a beer it will be removed pretty fast! (May have to post after TH has gone to bed)
Great!
I will have him see if he can fold himself into the proper shape to access the cubby back there.
My friend is a very tall individual, who will have a difficult time maneuvering in the boot......He says there is a Y pipe and Cats back there as well, and things are pretty well jammed in. Where do the Purple / Green-white wires next surface? Possibly an easier location?
Oh, and having a bunch of parts in the back precludes muscling it out the door.....
Cheers!
OK,
Had a closer look................It is absolutely HIDEOUS!!!!!!
You get "Trophies" if you are liked enough, or just plain prolific!
I do not do Facebook, tweeter or any of the social media crap, and this just Oozes Social media now, so as we say in Hawaii:
Au Hui Hou!.......See ya at the Pub!
Thanks for opening the door to a grumpy old Yank!
Heck! the worst part is Richard has 16 points, and I have twice as many posts, and I got Zip!
Call that fair???
Who's Toadies little pet???
Yea, It looks pretty bad, but HEY! you are the top dog this month!
Ever wonder if possibly you have too much spare time?
Aloha,
I sold all my parts cars to a mate in Hawaii when I started wandering on the boat......Now I need a Transfer case for the Borrego (Machine gun syndrome)
The 1995 car has had the Tcase pulled and left in the back when he sold the trans out of it. Becm is gone as well, so shutting the back was a bad idea.
He is happy to ship me the Case, (Free!) but I have to tell him how to open the back........
I know you can apply power to the rear hatch switch and solenoid via the RH door.....The door cards are all off on this one, so easy access to all wiring.
So....Probably Richard or Marty........Where does he apply power to open the rear?
Cheers!
Tom
Here is a pretty good description of how to do it:
http://www.possumliving.com/2012/08/propane-refrigerant-for-automotive-air.html
I have used the Enviro-safe product as well, and found it to work just fine.
Incidentally, R-12, though it does really screw with ozone in the upper atmosphere, was finally "Banned" when Dupont could no longer renew the patent on it, thus could no longer charge their world wide licensees lots of money to make it.
Guess who instantly had a less harmful R-12 replacement? Yep! Those clever little monkeys at Dupont!
Golly, what a coincidence!
As this guy says, the Germans have been using R-600 (Isobutane) for ages.
Lowers the energy consumption on a home fridge by about 20% versus R-134a (From my own testing with Enviro-safe)
Not really sure just what dry nitrogen would do in the system being rather stable temp wise, but it probably does not help.
I used to put these things on all the systems I built waaaaayyyy back when. They take all of the guess work out of AC charging as you simply run the system and keep on adding small sips of gas till the liquid stream is bubble free. As a bonus, it will show moisture in the system.
In olden times, virtually all US cars had a sight glass on the top of the drier. No more, alas.
I may just add one of these buggers to mine when I get my service kit where I am.
I even found an Eurocentric link for you all!
Oh, yea, I have played with R-600 (Dry Isobutane) and plain old LPG as R-134 replacements.(Use a LOT less) They actually outperform the Dupont patented, legislated products!
Disclaimer: Do not try this at home, I used a disposable car for the testing...........And it is still just fine 13 years on............
Good to see Toadie is still with us!
Odd sort of issue 'tho.
Cheers!
Well, seeing as the only thing worse than an undercharged ac system, which is merely annoying, is an Overcharged one.......
You may well do yourself a favor by letting a bit more out.
The primary issue with overfilling is having liquid refrigerant on the suction side of the system. This will cause compressor "Slugging" which is when the compressor sucks up liquid, which, of course is a bit tough to compress........it can cause a pretty catastrophic failure of the compressor.
The field method of checking this without guages is to look for the suction line (Fat one on the compressor) to be sweating, or worse, frosted up to the compressor.
In normal operation it will be relatively cool to the touch, but not so cold as to give you frostbite! Actually, as it is not jacketed, you can follow the suction line as far back as possible and at no point should it be frosty. If this is happening with yours, let a bit of gas out at a time until, with it on High with doors and windows closed, you no longer get frost, or if it is dry out (Low humidity), it should never be uncomfortable to hold for an extended time at any exposed portion.
They were going to pump nitrogen into a gassed system to pressure test it??? Yikes!
When the car is off, the high and low sides will equalise, and as long as there is any liquid R-134 in the system, it will show the same pressure.
Pressure will be vary, and is determined by ambient temp.
As soon as the system is active, it will suck the vapor through the compressor, and condenser will cool it into liquid, then through the expansion valve in the
evaporator, and cold happens! This is when the high side versus low side pressures will tell you if additional gas is needed.
If there is not enough gas in the system, things will still work, but not as well. When it gets down too low, the trinary switch kills the
power to the compressor so as not to damage it. Thus, when things nudge above 35 or so, it just blows coolish air at you as it is short cycling.
Here in the US of A, we are still allowed to re gas our own vehicles. In OZ, they practically panicked and called the cops when I inquired about purchasing a can of R-134.....
I am guessing that over there in Borris land, like OZ you are not allowed to do your own..........Possibly after Brexit? ;)
Hmmmmm....
Just tried a post. As of right now, seems to be instant for me.
In the last few weeks, there have been several times I have seen that the last post shown on the right side, is not the last post on the thread. Quite a
delay for some to show up. Possibly there is a "White list" and all others need to be moderated?
I have noticed that over the last 6 months or so, that TH has gone from very present to very vaguely present, with somewhat incoherent posts, to virtually non existent.
As much as he can tend to be a bit "Heavy handed" when he perceives he has been provoked, I do hope he is ok?
Hey Marty,
Good to know it is NTC......I have a bag of 10k PTC parts here (10k @25c) and was going to try one on the Borrego........Nano says temp sensor is bad, but HVAC works fine?
Do you know if the outside temp sensor is same?
For those not Geekier enuf' NTC is Negative Temperature Coefficient. PTC is Positive. Means resistance falls or rises with temp change.
Thermistors cost about 5 of whatever currency you want to use....Cheap as Chips!
Update on the pads and rotors.......
It took the shipper a extra week to get them to me, but now I have them on, and have done about 4k miles with them, I have to say I am very happy with them! As far as the rumored noise goes? Not a single peep from them. Dust is no more than normal
I gave them a proper bedding in around town and have done 4 round trips to the San Francisco bay area in the last month, each about 800miles RT.
Zero issues with noise, or fade after a couple of 95mph to zero quick stops! (I-5 through central Calif is NUTS to drive!)
Off topic, but the Borrego has also had exactly Zero issues in lots of mixed driving in the last 3 months! Averaging 19.8 Mpg with a lot of 85-90mph stretches. (And those are the small USA Gallons! :) Just gotta get to my parts stash in Hawaii and get the needed bits for EAS.
Well, thanks for all the input.
We will see how the EBC UM 2s work here in California.......I believe I have Greens or Yellows on my 02 in Hawaii, and they are great.
If they are noisy? they are quick and cheap to replace.
I will certainly update the thread as the situation warrants.
Cheers!
Well, I will report back when I have installed them......Just ordered, as the front rotors I am on now are kinda scary looking!
At the very least, I have been assured the rotors are as advertised, and UK build, not China.
Nothing fancy here, and if the pads are noisy? Pretty easy to change. I used these pads on my 02 in Hawaii, and liked them.
Any horror stories are appreciated however!
Thanks for the quick response.
A bit of digging on their site,and I found the difference.
The "6 Vin" parts are for Disco.
Odd, since I thought the Disco used the same brake parts as well?
Learn sommit new every day!
Cheers!
Aloha all,
I posted this on the "Other" forum, so sorry if you are seeing it twice......
Looking forward to hearing the difference in brake parts!
Also, Any issues with basic EBC rotors and Ultimax 2 pads?
Here's the link.....
https://thmotorsports.com/ebc-brakes/ebc-brake-kit-s1-ultimax2-and-rk-rotors/g-71575.aspx
Cheers.
Tom
Aloha,
I have been searching for the last week for someone who can sell me rotors that are not Chinese knock offs.
Frustrating experience!
I am about to buy some Brit made EBC rotors and pads for the Borrrego, and came across an interesting question.
The place I am looking (TH Motorsports) lists brake parts as for:
Position: Front
w/ 4 Engine VIN
or:
Position: Front
w/ 6 Engine VIN
Same thing for rears.
The same kit with slightly different part numbers is a bit more $$ for the 6 Vin........
I was under the impression that the brakes were the same from 95-02?
Anycl ue as to what they are concerned with the engine vin for? I assume this is either a Bosh / Gems thing, or a 4.0 / 4.6 thing........
Looking forward to learning something new!
Cheers
Aloha, and G'day,
I am here in Oz helping a mate with his L322.......Fan got unbalanced, and broke the water pump clean off! (td6)
We are looking for the fan, Pump, and while we are at it, some new rad hoses.
I have found some things at land-rover-parts-shop.com, and others at LRDirect.
What I am after is just which parts are to be avoided.....I already know to steer VERY clear of anything from Britparts.
Any others? or ones that are usually good value?
Being NA based in the past, i have not paid enough attention to you UK guys and where you like to shop. Being in Oz now, I am amazed by
the blatant ripping off of the customer that is practiced by some outfits.
So, who should we be shopping from there?
Oh, yea......The LAST thing I would buy myself would be an L322!!!! P-38's RULE!!!
Cheers,
Tom
Second try at this.....lost my first response.......
It can be done, but it is tricky.
I had to get the door on my 02 open to remove the Becm which had locked the truck down, then went insane.......
Start with a wooden wedge to create a gap between the window and the top of the door.
Next, get a bright light in there. I wedged a bright Led torch in the opening.
Now, get a stiff steel rod with a hook bent on the end, and fish for the plug that attaches the lock to the harness.
I was able to get the thing unplugged without breaking the wires......your results may vary......
Once I had this done, I used a pair of wires attached to a stick to apply 12 volts to the now exposed pins on the locking assembly plug. This is the tricky bit.........
By playing with the polarity of the power, I got it un superlocked, then powered the locking servo motor, and viola!
Open door without damaging anything.
As for the no batteries rule, I would think that an 9 volt transistor battery would probably activate the motors just fine.
(Marty could confirm this?)
Also, I used a current limited short circuit proof power supply to do mine, as you will short the wires whilst trying to hit the correct contacts on the plug. The 9v batt would not be harmed too much by a bit of shorting out.
I suppose you could also use a cordless tool battery in your pocket to beat the no batts rule?
Put a 1 amp circuit breaker in line, or there will be smoke........
If you have access to an old door latch, you could practice before the real thing?
Oh, it took me about 30 min from start to finish.
I assure you it can be done, but I could have just gotten lucky..........Good luck!
Tom