So,
If it reports Rt front sensor error, it is actually the Rt front?
I was able to get the nano to stay connected with live data to 30kph and 3 out of 4 sensors agreed. Rt front said 1.7 the whole time.
As for wiring and plugs.......The plug connections to the sensors are a moulded plastic with a bit of Red and White wire attached.
Do these go straight to the ABS ECU? no splices??
If so, (Gilbert) does anyone have the pin outs at the ECU for the inputs so I can ring out the wiring?
Made the 999.7 mile trip South in 16 hours with no issues and in sublime comfort, so now away from shop but still keen to get this sorted.
There are several 2001 and 2002 P-38s at breakers within 50 miles of me, so I can get another ECU or sensors if needed easily and cheaply.
I may get snow and Ice on the return and whilst not necessary, ABS and TC are nice to have......
Cheers, and Happy Thanksgiving to those who celebrate it!
Tom

Update on the situation with Bolt.
I put her up on jack stands to lube the ujoints and do a general inspection in preparation for a 2000 mile RT South to see the family.
When I did the wheel bearing check, I found the RT front bearings were toasted.
Left seemed ok, but as they are stock and with 185,000 on the clock, I ordered both sides.
This made me think that possibly the RT ABS sensor had been damaged by the eccentricity in the hub.
It looked undamaged, so I checked it against a known good one and resistance was close, so I swapped it in anyway.
Same problem, however, I did catch the Nano actually telling me there was an electrical fault with the RT Front sensor
and that this had happened 6 times. This is the first time that It has actually given me a fault read out.
I also got it to stay connected long enough to get a speed reading for all 4. RT front is dead. Stays at 1.7 kph

So, 2 questions......
First, do I recall reading posts that have said the Nano is a bit dyslexic when it comes to L and R sensors? Is the problem really on the left?
Second, If the sensor is ok, what set of plugs does the ABS go through to get to the ECU. Kick panel plugs are a bit tatty, but cleaned
recently (Need to chop and solder them soon.)
I am temporarily not able to access Rave from here.
New theories?

As an aside, the front hub swap out was the easiest thing I have ever done on a front end! Great design.
Took 20 min to remove the old one, and a bit less to put it back together, and that is including the brakes and wheel.
The same job on my 85 Classic would have been all day.

This started on a dark and stormy night last Christmas......
I was driving home from California on the Coast Highway so as to avoid a large Sierra snow storm on highway 5.
the coast route had snow and ice as well, and as soon as I hit it, I got ABS and TC lights on! Not sliding or braking, so coincidence????
Pulled over, cycled ignition, and issue went away for about 10 miles, then on again.
Pulled off again, attached Nano, and looked for faults. None reported for brake system??
So, as it was 3am and I had been driving for 14 hours, I drove on.
Oddly, the ABS and TC seemed to be actually working...

For the last year, I have looked into the problem a couple of times, and again, no faults are ever reported by Nano.
When you turn on the ignition, and without starting the engine all 3 amigos go on.
After about 15 seconds, the Brake light goes off, and the message center beeps telling me I have an ABS failure.
Once I start the engine, and move the vehicle a small distance, (the usual distance that is needed to extinguish
the TC and ABS lights) the message center tells me I have Traction Control Failure.
I have 2 2002s here, and a 1999, so I compared readings from the Nano.
I get 2.33 to 2.35 volts on all sensors on all 3 and the nano says I am doing 1.7kph at a standstill.

Since this is an issue of the system failing at self test and before even starting the engine, and since all initial
readings for all 3 vehicles are virtually identical, I thought possibly it was an issue with the ABS ECU. So,
I pulled the working ECU from the 02 Borrego, and placed it in Bolt.
The issue went away for about 100 yards, then came back with the same message center warnings.
Anyone have any ideas so far??

Now, it gets stranger......I took the known good ABS ECU back out and installed it back in the Borrego.
The Borrego now has the SAME SYMPTOMS!!!!!
Identical behaviour when I switch on ignition.
Installing the ECU in Bolt for 5 minutes seems to have affected it. Again, no errors logged to be read by Nano!
Now I have 2 02s with the same issue. One that started on the road, and the other started in the shed by swapping in the ECU to Bolt.
Can anyone think just what is going on here, because I am stumped!
I hesitate to try the ECU from the 99, because it works...... but may take the Borrego ECU and try it the 99 to see if the problem shifts as expected........
Cheers,
Tom

From your last post, I would lean more toward a bad earth point.
When you turn something on, (especially a high current drawing device like lights) and something else acts up on a P-38,
It is usually an corroded or loose ground.
New fuse box will certainly not hurt, but run through the earth points as well.

That's what I suspected as well, but no faults logged, and for the brief time it lets me look at live values as I speed up, all sensors are returning data????
I will dig into it further.
I have checked both front sensors with an ohm meter and they look ok. The plastic surrounding the pins crumbled however, so I need to get some weather pack connectors and replace them.
Will check rears when it dries out this weekend.

I have a similar fault, which started about a year ago. ABS Fault and in a few seconds, Traction failure fault on the message centre.
15 seconds after I start the engine, and the Brake light goes out, and without moving, I get the TRACTION FAILURE message.
Once I start to drive, and get over about 5mph, I get ABS FAULT message.
I have never found any error codes stored in Nano?
Like Gilbert, who I believe has a similar issue?, I have been a lazy sod and not really tried to fix it......
Oh, TC and ABS seem to work when I tried them on a dirt lot!
Any clue?

My 02 does this occasionally.....
It is caused by the fluid level being ~just~ at the point above the sensor closing it's contacts. When it sloshes a bit, it throws the error.
Mine will come on going around a particular corner, or traversing a side sloped driveway at my neighbors house.
I just top it up. Problem solved.
As brake pads wear, the volume of fluid retained by the calipers increases, thus it leaves the reservoir, only to return to make a
mess when you replace the pads and re-compress the pistons into the calipers. Be sure to rinse it off quickly.......
So, top it up to the max line and see what happens, probably not electrical......Or, as it is a P-38, perhaps it is!

Here is another, more permanent solution to allow starting with all of these issues.........

Just to update on my testing and continued use of Simon's emulator boards.
I have been using 2 of them on my 99 and 02 Bosch ECUs for about 6 months now, under various conditions, and am
VERY happy with the results. That is, being able to start the engines and go home no matter what I have done to annoy the
security system.
For those not familiar with this device, it is a small board that is installed in the ECU which will send the mobilization code to the ECU
each time you start the engine. This was designed originally to allow the use of the Bosch motor in race cars without the Becm being needed.
Installation requires soldering skills, but is not difficult. You also bypass the Becm starter switch circuit at the Becm. 2 wires, and some more solder.
This allows cranking when in an alarmed state by taking away the Becm's "Vote" on granting crank when the key is turned.
Once started whilst in an alarmed state, I have observed that all systems work normally. The only indication that all is not normal is the alarm light on the dash blinking. I would imagine, but have not tested, that the alarm horn may be triggered as well, but as my sounders are unplugged, I am not sure.
Only "Down" side, I have observed is that by bypassing the starter circuit, you can start it in gear, which annoys the transmission ECU, so a bit of care needed.......
By the way, I have working fobs for both and all door locks work as they should. In my case, this is an "Just in case the Missus is away from home, and the thing acts up, for any reason", she can get home and will hold off with the gallon of petrol, and a match..........
Missus insists that she be able to start it like any other car........This device allows that! Happy wife!
Again, I do not work for Simon, just like his boards! With fobs getting thin on the ground, this will keep more P-38s on the road! A good thing!

When you reconnected the battery, did it ask for the usual reset of windows and sun roof?
Did it ask you to re sync fobs?
If, not, it seems like it is behaving as if it has no idea on whether windows are up or down.....
Try removing battery power for a few min and reconnect. It should beep at you and tell you nothing is set as far as windows and sunroof.....
Of course, have the keys in your pocket when you do this

Yep! X8r is correct
How I got LK8 I have no idea..........

If you program both of the memory seat functions to 2 very different settings, lock the doors with the fob.
Unlock with a long press (2 seconds should do) whichever position the seats move to is the number of the Fob.
Only works for 1 and 2. I got zilch when I tried this, so infer that I have 3and 4
The manual is a bit vague about whether this works from a normal locking or only if super locked, so try both?.......

I did a rebuild on a spare valve block for the HSK yesterday using an LK8 kit. Fully successful as of this morning
it is no longer doing what the Duchess was.....Sitting on it's haunches in the AM.
I did need to R&R the driver pack after the initial install, as it would only raise the RH side......
I should have known better than to put in an untested driver pack. Now in the bin!
There have been a few threads lately about possible parts missing from LK8 kits, however
this was a kit purchased last year, and no issues with parts.

OK,
I have 2 tasks.....
I will try inputting the fob code for #3 from Bolt into the Fob 1 position on the HSK.
Second, I will get a receiver from the breakers on my next visit, and send to you.
Depending upon the availability of P-38s at breakers, this could be a while.
As for the possibility of my having 2 Fob 3 keys? They have never gotten out of sync, even after the
spare being unused for months. This is what leads me to believe I may have a 3 and a 4.
I will report back on the experiment with the fobs I have.
Cheers!

Thanks, Sloth!
So if, I have this straight, The first fob code input will generate the next 3?
There are 4 possible fobs that were at one time available here for NAS spec. (Not anymore though.)
I have used the seat and mirror memory function to confirm that I have 2 "Fob 3" keys for Bolt.
As there was no response from the seats upon a long press of the unlock button I will surmise I have indeed
got 2 Fob 3 keys. (Possibly one is fob 4....Gotta find my receipt) I did program the seats into Becm memory first.
Would the code I read as Fob 3 in Bolt's Becm be what I would input into the HSK Becm in position 1 to
enable me to use one of my 2 known good fobs for the HSK?

In any event, I do have the fob with key for the HSK as well as 2 other functional fobs I could send you to be read.
Please advise via PM what you will want for this service?
It would be nice to get the HSK fob working again, as well as knowing the codes of the other fobs.

Gilbert: It was indeed Turner Diagnostics.............

Cheers,
Tom

Yep, classic sign of a Poltergeist?
When it went to full tilt, did the bar graph max out as well? If so, the controller simply threw a wobbly.
Marty would have more insight on that one.

That would be the codes which are displayed under "Fobs" at the end of the "Alarm" Settings on Nano.
They are 2 and 3 number codes. I assume this is the number you get when you do the conversion of the bar codes.
I believe they can be re written, but do not know if this would be enough to, yes, use a fob from a different
car.......The 2000 HSK we just acquired has a non working fob and PO says it just suddenly stopped working.
I suspect, looking at the service records that it stopped when the Becm was replaced, and he was told it was
probably the fob.....He sent it to the Ebay bloke in the UK who said it was good, but no joy.
The garage he was using also replaced the ignition lock and provided a new valet key about 6 months prior to
the Becm replacement.
There was a line item on the bill for Turner engineering, so I suspect they were the jobber who provided the Becm.
I did check and found both the HSK and Borrego share fob code 96 for Fob 1.
Sadly, when i bought the Borrego, I was only able to get fob 3 from RR, so no joy there!

Does anyone know if it is possible to change any of the 3 fob codes on an unlocked Becm using a Nano?
Cheers
Tom

Marty has been there, and has the T shirt to prove it!
He sells them on his web shop. Buy local and save!
http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=75&product_id=85

Echo-Echo wrote:

Trawling through this Forum, I've just read this. Could it have been L Jackson, The Rocket Site, Misson, Bawtry, Near Doncaster ? I too went there in Austin the '70s and was intrigued by the range of ex-military gear they had (including a Land Rover on steroids with 900x16 tyres - no, not a 101). I was there for a rear axle for my Champ...

Still have the Champ?
Cheers,
Tom

Thanks Gents,
I did eventually go straight to Wayback and found what I was after. I need the YM 2000 special editions descriptions.
I have been offered an HSK edition. The owner said it was a special edition made for the Queen......
Turns out, it is just a high trim out edition. Nothing really special. Clean tho'
Oh, I have copies of RAVE on 4 platforms from Win Xp to 7 and my android. It is always with me offline :)
Cheers!