"and I'm assuming the valves will be driven when the brakes are applied......"

Would the valves be driven if the wheel sensors report all is well?
ABS should not be actuated unless it thinks it's needed. As you pointed out, with the fuse removed, braking is perfect, just no ABS or TC.......

On an off topic note, I had to use the missus' 2000 HSK yesterday to bring a generator to a snowed in friend as it has some fairly aggressive 16 in M/S tyres.
His drive is steep, switched back, about 100 meters long and nominally graveled, but had 16 in of snow on it with ice below.
The TC worked it's guts out going up, and TC was very active coming down! Loads of fun!
Flawless performance, and he got lights and heat back!
He will officially stop referring to P-38s as "Cream Puffs"!
He used to race Baja 500, and regularly dis's Rangies!....Not any more.....

I don't know if this is it, but my recent issue with ABS which was similar, except that it would only activate ABS when slowing down to turn a sharp right out of a car park. No errors flagged, and all ABS and TC lights on.
Turned out, I had a very bad wheel bearing, and the reluctor was kicking the sensor back every time I re seated it.
New hub, with, as you will recall, a hole which kept the sensor from seating fully...... Drilled hole out to allow sensor in the last 3mm, and problem solved.
Possibly, the new reluctor is slightly eccentric, causing the sensor to push back out as soon as you make 1 revolution of the wheel?? Is the sensor actually going through the hole in the hub dust shield?
Is the wheel bearing good? Mine was very bad, yet there was no real evidence of this via noise or handling other than
a slight wobbly feel, but just occasionally......
Can you get any travel on the sensor once it has been driven?
Nano showed 1.7kph at rest, and it looked like the speeds were all increasing as I accelerated, until it stopped sending data at about 5kph. Getting it to re connect at 30kph showed the sensor error on rt front.
The whole time this was going on, and the ABS and TC lights were on, there was never any faults shown on Nano.....
Good luck!

I wonder if PSI motorsport has any connection to Simon here- "Psidoc" as he builds and sells widgets for
making engines run without BECM, Possibly he does things for diesel tuning as well??
Seems like a strange coincidence, Good luck!

PC38 wrote:

As you can see from my other thread looks like i'm having problems. So with this jumper in place I should be able to start my car no matter what the alarm thinks?
Paul,

My experience with Bosch/ Thor is using Psidoc's (Simon's) emulator board.
For Gems, I have installed one of Labtronics (Lee's) modules. Both of these give the ECU the handshake it is looking for the fire up the engine. Both need the wiring bypass at the Becm.
I understand Turner can modify either ECU to allow starting without Becm intervention.
The jumper will keep the Becm from disabling the starter motor, so it will always crank.
In order to start in an alarmed or immobilised state, you also need to have an emulator board installed in the ECU, so it will always get the mobilisation code.
With a modified ECU and the jumper, the Becm is out of the loop and the engine can always be started just by turning the key.
Cheers,
Tom

How did we go from ABS to throttle body heaters in one thread?

I accept full responsibility, sir!
I suggest a light flogging, then banishment for life!!

Look what banishment has done to you career! HA!

That is the correct wiring bypass for the starter at the Becm. Both Yellow plugs, one on the front, one under the fuses on the RT side.......

She does not do anything to the vehicle, however she has been immobilised 2 times on a previously owned 1999.
Once, it superlocked on her in a torrential downpour! Not pleased.........
I do not need to be told that the Rangie would be heading down the road to a new owner if it happens again.
She also reads the forums over my shoulder and groans in sympathy when we get a
"HELP, stuck in the middle of nowhere and immobilised!!" Post.....
So, as her HSK has no fob, and out of an abundance of caution, I have installed Simon's board, clipped the superlock motor wires,
and take scrupulously good care of her Air suspension. She is happy, I am happy, Dog is happy!!

As to the signs it is immobilised?
That's the strange thing. It starts and runs without announcing that it is immobilised. No messages on binnacle.
The alarm light on the dash does flash, and if I had the sounder plugged in, it might be making noise?
Otherwise, everything works as it should.
I test them every so often by locking with fob, unlocking with key and annoying the BECM (HSK just gets switched to bypass as no fob)
Also, I have installed the board with an ultra reliable toggle switch and the vehicle operates in normal BECM controlled mode at all times.
IF there is a problem, you pop the bonnet, flip the non obvious switch, and start it up! Drive home and figure it out there, not in some
secluded spot in the rain, at night with Bears and wolves in the bushes!!

I am going to get an extra ECU, modify it, and have it handy to help out someone who is alarmed, and immobilised beyond the Nano's abilities.
Cheap addition to the tool box, and a good resale value!

Harv wrote:

https://www.sportscarcentre.ca/MGM000010K

This is it. Sports Car Centre, Edmonton. Not cheap for what it is but it’s better quality than the original. It’s too early for me to say that it will last longer but I think it’s been 2 years since I installed it with no issues.

That certainly looks like a forever fix!
I have an alloy expansion tank, may as well go for broke!

I say disabled, or bypassed.....even eliminated since the BECM no longer has a say as to start or no start.
Can we go with "functionally" Disabled?
If the BECM gets annoyed, and you are a dab hand with the EKA, or quick with the Nano, No worries! (That's me)
If however, you are an "family member" who loves the Rangie and is happy to drive it as long as it starts and goes
without any "Faffing about" (The Missus) then being sure it starts no matter what is invaluable!

Makes sense.
I notice several sellers with thick silicone gaskets on offer.

No,
It is a whole lot simpler than that.
3 wires: B+, B-, and a signal lead that you solder on to one off the leads to the header plug, which you clip first
You also do a 1 wire bypass at the BECM to eliminate it's "Vote" on the starter motor when the key is turned.
Is that a Turner job there?
That ECU appears to be fried as well!

Thanks!
I see pattern pats cheap, but OEM is only about 35 bucks.....Probably one of those that's not worth the risk?

Harv wrote:

I must have entered the EKA with my Nanocom at some point because I can lock it with the remote and unlock it with the key without any issues.

That's odd. What you describe being the best way I know to annoy the BECM causing it to immobilise.
You should have to input EKA each time you do that!
If you lock with fob, you should need to always unlock with fob, otherwise, you are stealing it!

Gilbertd wrote:

Despite what a number of people will have you believe, you can't disable the immobiliser,

Despite what our esteemed colleague says, It IS now possible to, if not "disable" the immobiliser, it can be easily "Bypassed".
I have installed a small board inside my ECUs from Simon "Psidoc" on 3 of mine, and can say with certainty, that when testing them, I have caused the immobiliser to be activated intentionally, and the engine fires right up! This is on a Thor/ Bosch engine.......The Gems immobiliser was beaten into submission by Lee in Oz years
ago......
I understand Gilbert does not necessarily approve off these work arounds, but I say, if it keeps them going and stops some poor owner from fire bombing their Rangie, it's worth it!
My Missus now will take her HSK (which did not come with a fob)......anywhere, and I am confident she will always be able to get it started!
It can still go to bumpstops, but at lease it goes!

BECM comes from the factory unlocked, the dealer puts in the EKA and who knows what else, then locks it before it is
delivered to customer.
Once locked, it needs specialist tools or a Testbook to unlock. I have had all mine unlocked by Scotty, who now is no longer the BECM Dr. (someone on .net did take over from him.....)
My HSK was unlocked by Turner for the PO.
Nano actually warns that locking cannot be undone, not vice verse.

Cold and VERY damp here as well....I did just take the heat gun to it and bathed it gently in warm air.....
Looks bright and new again........Until the damp gets it again.....
Where are Zebra strips coming from these days? I think I got the last one from Marty.....

I am not 100% sure, but I believe that you can not enter an new EKA into an Locked BECM.
(all of mine are unlocked) I have heard of BECMs "Forgetting" the EKA and displaying blank space.
EKA on, off or programed or not should not affect key fob sync. Unless the BECM is in an alarmed state, in which case you cannot sync fobs.

This week was "Bolt Week" I finally got lucky with a breaker in San Francisco area and on a trip through, I was able to get a white lift gate with glass for 60 bucks!
The glass exploded on my original due to a bit of sharp grit getting down between the plastic trim and the glass.
Not wanting to spend $450 for a new glass, I went to nearest breaker, and got a hatch from a poor White Gold Rangie that some slob had used rattle cans to paint a hideous green. It was cheap and filled the hole.......
For the last year, I have had a distinctly green hatch on a white Rangie.....Soooo socially embarrassing!
Now, back to stock trim! Next was a new seat belt female end for driver as it had failed with a broken internal spring.
Modified the RT front new hub to allow ABS sensor to see the reluctor ring, thus restoring ABS and TC.
Next up is the coolant leak at the throttle body plate.
Of course, in the latest cold snap, the Zebra strip connector on the HVAC controller has come asunder.
Gotta get one of those and repair the display. Small but satisfying little fixes!

Well, I finally got a break in the weather here and pulled the RT front hub to enlarge the hole for the ABS sensor....
Once I had it off, I did try to rotate the sleeve using a large vise and a chain wrench. No dice. It is swaged on solidly.
With a sharp Uni Bit, it was a few seconds work to enlarge the hole to get alignment.
Put it all back, and low and behold! It works as good as new!
Lesson learned: If the sensor is not close enough to the reluctor, it will fail the initial static test. Even before engine is started.
It is still a total mystery to me why the Nano only one time threw an error code for the RH front sensor. The rest of the
50 or so times I looked, it said No Faults even though both the ABS and TC lights were on.
As an aside, I found my small coolant leak finally......I was thinking head gaskets, but it was the throttle body heater plate ooozing coolant. Part on order.

Welcome indeed!
The Pub is a great spot, and just chock full of knowledge!
When Gilbert says virtually all.......He means they even allow Yanks! (we have P-38's here too!)
Love the fleet. As of 2 weeks ago, I alas am down to just 2 here.......
Cheers!

I seem to be out voted......I shall try to rotate it, and let you know. Makes sense, but the old ones do not even think of moving.
If not, I will drill.....