I say disabled, or bypassed.....even eliminated since the BECM no longer has a say as to start or no start.
Can we go with "functionally" Disabled?
If the BECM gets annoyed, and you are a dab hand with the EKA, or quick with the Nano, No worries! (That's me)
If however, you are an "family member" who loves the Rangie and is happy to drive it as long as it starts and goes
without any "Faffing about" (The Missus) then being sure it starts no matter what is invaluable!

Makes sense.
I notice several sellers with thick silicone gaskets on offer.

No,
It is a whole lot simpler than that.
3 wires: B+, B-, and a signal lead that you solder on to one off the leads to the header plug, which you clip first
You also do a 1 wire bypass at the BECM to eliminate it's "Vote" on the starter motor when the key is turned.
Is that a Turner job there?
That ECU appears to be fried as well!

Thanks!
I see pattern pats cheap, but OEM is only about 35 bucks.....Probably one of those that's not worth the risk?

Harv wrote:

I must have entered the EKA with my Nanocom at some point because I can lock it with the remote and unlock it with the key without any issues.

That's odd. What you describe being the best way I know to annoy the BECM causing it to immobilise.
You should have to input EKA each time you do that!
If you lock with fob, you should need to always unlock with fob, otherwise, you are stealing it!

Gilbertd wrote:

Despite what a number of people will have you believe, you can't disable the immobiliser,

Despite what our esteemed colleague says, It IS now possible to, if not "disable" the immobiliser, it can be easily "Bypassed".
I have installed a small board inside my ECUs from Simon "Psidoc" on 3 of mine, and can say with certainty, that when testing them, I have caused the immobiliser to be activated intentionally, and the engine fires right up! This is on a Thor/ Bosch engine.......The Gems immobiliser was beaten into submission by Lee in Oz years
ago......
I understand Gilbert does not necessarily approve off these work arounds, but I say, if it keeps them going and stops some poor owner from fire bombing their Rangie, it's worth it!
My Missus now will take her HSK (which did not come with a fob)......anywhere, and I am confident she will always be able to get it started!
It can still go to bumpstops, but at lease it goes!

BECM comes from the factory unlocked, the dealer puts in the EKA and who knows what else, then locks it before it is
delivered to customer.
Once locked, it needs specialist tools or a Testbook to unlock. I have had all mine unlocked by Scotty, who now is no longer the BECM Dr. (someone on .net did take over from him.....)
My HSK was unlocked by Turner for the PO.
Nano actually warns that locking cannot be undone, not vice verse.

Cold and VERY damp here as well....I did just take the heat gun to it and bathed it gently in warm air.....
Looks bright and new again........Until the damp gets it again.....
Where are Zebra strips coming from these days? I think I got the last one from Marty.....

I am not 100% sure, but I believe that you can not enter an new EKA into an Locked BECM.
(all of mine are unlocked) I have heard of BECMs "Forgetting" the EKA and displaying blank space.
EKA on, off or programed or not should not affect key fob sync. Unless the BECM is in an alarmed state, in which case you cannot sync fobs.

This week was "Bolt Week" I finally got lucky with a breaker in San Francisco area and on a trip through, I was able to get a white lift gate with glass for 60 bucks!
The glass exploded on my original due to a bit of sharp grit getting down between the plastic trim and the glass.
Not wanting to spend $450 for a new glass, I went to nearest breaker, and got a hatch from a poor White Gold Rangie that some slob had used rattle cans to paint a hideous green. It was cheap and filled the hole.......
For the last year, I have had a distinctly green hatch on a white Rangie.....Soooo socially embarrassing!
Now, back to stock trim! Next was a new seat belt female end for driver as it had failed with a broken internal spring.
Modified the RT front new hub to allow ABS sensor to see the reluctor ring, thus restoring ABS and TC.
Next up is the coolant leak at the throttle body plate.
Of course, in the latest cold snap, the Zebra strip connector on the HVAC controller has come asunder.
Gotta get one of those and repair the display. Small but satisfying little fixes!

Well, I finally got a break in the weather here and pulled the RT front hub to enlarge the hole for the ABS sensor....
Once I had it off, I did try to rotate the sleeve using a large vise and a chain wrench. No dice. It is swaged on solidly.
With a sharp Uni Bit, it was a few seconds work to enlarge the hole to get alignment.
Put it all back, and low and behold! It works as good as new!
Lesson learned: If the sensor is not close enough to the reluctor, it will fail the initial static test. Even before engine is started.
It is still a total mystery to me why the Nano only one time threw an error code for the RH front sensor. The rest of the
50 or so times I looked, it said No Faults even though both the ABS and TC lights were on.
As an aside, I found my small coolant leak finally......I was thinking head gaskets, but it was the throttle body heater plate ooozing coolant. Part on order.

Welcome indeed!
The Pub is a great spot, and just chock full of knowledge!
When Gilbert says virtually all.......He means they even allow Yanks! (we have P-38's here too!)
Love the fleet. As of 2 weeks ago, I alas am down to just 2 here.......
Cheers!

I seem to be out voted......I shall try to rotate it, and let you know. Makes sense, but the old ones do not even think of moving.
If not, I will drill.....

Gilbertd wrote:

I changed a front hub on a friends car but it was about 4 years ago now. If I remember right, the 'tube' with the hole in it for the sensor could be rotated to make sure it lined up properly. So not a problem with the hub but an installation error......

I just went out and had a look at the old hub assemblies.......
It is true that the tube is not part of the casting, however, it is thoroughly pressed onto the casting.
How would you shift it?
Loosen the bolts and use a chain wrench?
I am going to go with mis manufactured rather than mis installed on this one.
Without a machine shop and specialized tools, that tube is not going to rotate ????.........Is it?
Like to try that one in the field?
Thanks for the continued help as always!

This is an FYI for anyone replacing hubs.....
I have discovered a problem with the RT Front sensor.....sort of....
Whilst swapping in the known good sensor from the Borrego, I noticed the sensor was not fully inserted and up against the reluctor ring.
The new OEM replacement hub has the hole for the sensor about 1/64th of an inch offset!!!!!! cannot set the sensor fully in.
This was not noticed when I did the replacement a couple of weeks ago, but obviously that would be a problem.
I am sure that the old hub allowed full insertion.
Guess it's wheel, brake and hub off and machine the hole a bit. Damn! I paid for OEM (Atlantic British)
because I try to avoid pattern parts
This is, of course, not the underlying issue as it fails on power up self test before any movement.....Just another issue.....

Jacckk: I have also been able to finally get error codes on Nano, but only after 6 faults are logged in ECU
In my case, swapping in another ECU had no effect. Good Luck, and please report if you have success!

"If you continuously have a Traction Failure warning then that’s something other than a repaired faulty sensor!"

Ahhhhh......Now there is the ongoing 1000 dollar (Or GBP) question.....What is the other "something"?

What you have said could explain why the error transferred to the Borrego when I moved the ECU back there.
I will do a road test and cycle the ignition to see if it clears.
The major question remains: Why are the TC and ABS lights on, faults reported on Message center, and no faults flagged on Nano??

The investigation continues.......

Gilbertd wrote:

Earlier Wabco C ones give an ABS Fault on the dash, followed by Traction Failure when moving, after which the message goes out but the ABS and TC warning lights stay on. Traction Failure then comes up for a few seconds when you turn the ignition off.

That is precisely what Wabco D does as well. Message centre beeps at me on switch off to remind me I have not solved
the problem! Nag Nag Nag!

Just got in from the 2300 mile return to Southern California.
Average speed for the entire trip was 62 mph and average Mpg was 18.1 (with our smaller gallons)
Flawless performance until 50 miles from home when EAS tossed an error saying Pressure Switch was closed, permanent fault.
Cleared fault with Nano and drove on, no issues.
Fortunately, the winter storm that we were looking at was delayed by 12 hours, so with a 15 hour and 45 min 1000 mile run today, we just got a
small snow flurry and a few showers so ABS and TC were not missed.
Still need to get to the bottom of this!
I have a Faultmate II registered to Bolt, so I will pull out the old XP laptop tomorrow and have a look with that.....Who knows???
I will also check all sensors to earth to eliminate that possibility.

There are decimal points in front of the numbers.....
So a bit below 1.2, but all the others report correctly on Nano.
All report 1.7 kph static.
What stumps me is the lack of any faults reported by nano???
Also, fail of static self test.
Again, when I was able to get live data up to 30 kph, Rt Front showed only the 1.7 kph.
So, definitely a problem, but swapping in known good sensor did not work, and known good ECU did not work.
I have now confirmed that wiring is fine.
What am I missing?

Got under the dash and had a look.........
The sensor wires are so obvious, no diagram needed......Still, thanks again!
I feel a bit of a dolt for not taking a closer look first!
I am still baffled.
The sensors ring out at the connector as:
LF- .951k
RF- .943k
LR- .961k
RR- .919k
Wires are intact to all sensors.
Message center will still throw TRACTION FAILURE error a few seconds after switching on ignition
and without starting the engine or moving. So, it must be failing the self test.
Nano still shows no faults after driving a bit even though TC and ABS lights are on and it has thrown
the ABS FAILURE message at me after moving a few yards.
I can only get a fault that will show on Nano by unplugging a sensor, in this case the RT Front. Nano then reports RT front sensor failure.
From Pete12345's post, it seems the only wheel that does not get confused is indeed the Rt front???
I would conclude from this that it is an ECU failure, yet swapping in one from the Borrego that had no issues
showed the same error, then the error moved to the Borrego.

Other than having 2 ECUs with the same failure, I have to admit, I am currently out of ideas. Guess I will need to
swap in the ECU from the 99 when I get home. I cannot think of anything the vehicle could be doing to harm them, so caution
to the wind, I will have to try that......
Unless someone has another idea I can try?

Looks like the 16 hour drive home will feature at least 6 hours with ice and snow. ABS and TC would be nice, but, of course not mandatory....
Thanks for the assistance so far......

Thanks Gilbert!
You are once again a hero!
Just what I need to slay this gremlin.
Cheers!