Gilbertd wrote:

Despite what a number of people will have you believe, you can't disable the immobiliser,

Despite what our esteemed colleague says, It IS now possible to, if not "disable" the immobiliser, it can be easily "Bypassed".
I have installed a small board inside my ECUs from Simon "Psidoc" on 3 of mine, and can say with certainty, that when testing them, I have caused the immobiliser to be activated intentionally, and the engine fires right up! This is on a Thor/ Bosch engine.......The Gems immobiliser was beaten into submission by Lee in Oz years
ago......
I understand Gilbert does not necessarily approve off these work arounds, but I say, if it keeps them going and stops some poor owner from fire bombing their Rangie, it's worth it!
My Missus now will take her HSK (which did not come with a fob)......anywhere, and I am confident she will always be able to get it started!
It can still go to bumpstops, but at lease it goes!

BECM comes from the factory unlocked, the dealer puts in the EKA and who knows what else, then locks it before it is
delivered to customer.
Once locked, it needs specialist tools or a Testbook to unlock. I have had all mine unlocked by Scotty, who now is no longer the BECM Dr. (someone on .net did take over from him.....)
My HSK was unlocked by Turner for the PO.
Nano actually warns that locking cannot be undone, not vice verse.

Cold and VERY damp here as well....I did just take the heat gun to it and bathed it gently in warm air.....
Looks bright and new again........Until the damp gets it again.....
Where are Zebra strips coming from these days? I think I got the last one from Marty.....

I am not 100% sure, but I believe that you can not enter an new EKA into an Locked BECM.
(all of mine are unlocked) I have heard of BECMs "Forgetting" the EKA and displaying blank space.
EKA on, off or programed or not should not affect key fob sync. Unless the BECM is in an alarmed state, in which case you cannot sync fobs.

This week was "Bolt Week" I finally got lucky with a breaker in San Francisco area and on a trip through, I was able to get a white lift gate with glass for 60 bucks!
The glass exploded on my original due to a bit of sharp grit getting down between the plastic trim and the glass.
Not wanting to spend $450 for a new glass, I went to nearest breaker, and got a hatch from a poor White Gold Rangie that some slob had used rattle cans to paint a hideous green. It was cheap and filled the hole.......
For the last year, I have had a distinctly green hatch on a white Rangie.....Soooo socially embarrassing!
Now, back to stock trim! Next was a new seat belt female end for driver as it had failed with a broken internal spring.
Modified the RT front new hub to allow ABS sensor to see the reluctor ring, thus restoring ABS and TC.
Next up is the coolant leak at the throttle body plate.
Of course, in the latest cold snap, the Zebra strip connector on the HVAC controller has come asunder.
Gotta get one of those and repair the display. Small but satisfying little fixes!

Well, I finally got a break in the weather here and pulled the RT front hub to enlarge the hole for the ABS sensor....
Once I had it off, I did try to rotate the sleeve using a large vise and a chain wrench. No dice. It is swaged on solidly.
With a sharp Uni Bit, it was a few seconds work to enlarge the hole to get alignment.
Put it all back, and low and behold! It works as good as new!
Lesson learned: If the sensor is not close enough to the reluctor, it will fail the initial static test. Even before engine is started.
It is still a total mystery to me why the Nano only one time threw an error code for the RH front sensor. The rest of the
50 or so times I looked, it said No Faults even though both the ABS and TC lights were on.
As an aside, I found my small coolant leak finally......I was thinking head gaskets, but it was the throttle body heater plate ooozing coolant. Part on order.

Welcome indeed!
The Pub is a great spot, and just chock full of knowledge!
When Gilbert says virtually all.......He means they even allow Yanks! (we have P-38's here too!)
Love the fleet. As of 2 weeks ago, I alas am down to just 2 here.......
Cheers!

I seem to be out voted......I shall try to rotate it, and let you know. Makes sense, but the old ones do not even think of moving.
If not, I will drill.....

Gilbertd wrote:

I changed a front hub on a friends car but it was about 4 years ago now. If I remember right, the 'tube' with the hole in it for the sensor could be rotated to make sure it lined up properly. So not a problem with the hub but an installation error......

I just went out and had a look at the old hub assemblies.......
It is true that the tube is not part of the casting, however, it is thoroughly pressed onto the casting.
How would you shift it?
Loosen the bolts and use a chain wrench?
I am going to go with mis manufactured rather than mis installed on this one.
Without a machine shop and specialized tools, that tube is not going to rotate ????.........Is it?
Like to try that one in the field?
Thanks for the continued help as always!

This is an FYI for anyone replacing hubs.....
I have discovered a problem with the RT Front sensor.....sort of....
Whilst swapping in the known good sensor from the Borrego, I noticed the sensor was not fully inserted and up against the reluctor ring.
The new OEM replacement hub has the hole for the sensor about 1/64th of an inch offset!!!!!! cannot set the sensor fully in.
This was not noticed when I did the replacement a couple of weeks ago, but obviously that would be a problem.
I am sure that the old hub allowed full insertion.
Guess it's wheel, brake and hub off and machine the hole a bit. Damn! I paid for OEM (Atlantic British)
because I try to avoid pattern parts
This is, of course, not the underlying issue as it fails on power up self test before any movement.....Just another issue.....

Jacckk: I have also been able to finally get error codes on Nano, but only after 6 faults are logged in ECU
In my case, swapping in another ECU had no effect. Good Luck, and please report if you have success!

"If you continuously have a Traction Failure warning then that’s something other than a repaired faulty sensor!"

Ahhhhh......Now there is the ongoing 1000 dollar (Or GBP) question.....What is the other "something"?

What you have said could explain why the error transferred to the Borrego when I moved the ECU back there.
I will do a road test and cycle the ignition to see if it clears.
The major question remains: Why are the TC and ABS lights on, faults reported on Message center, and no faults flagged on Nano??

The investigation continues.......

Gilbertd wrote:

Earlier Wabco C ones give an ABS Fault on the dash, followed by Traction Failure when moving, after which the message goes out but the ABS and TC warning lights stay on. Traction Failure then comes up for a few seconds when you turn the ignition off.

That is precisely what Wabco D does as well. Message centre beeps at me on switch off to remind me I have not solved
the problem! Nag Nag Nag!

Just got in from the 2300 mile return to Southern California.
Average speed for the entire trip was 62 mph and average Mpg was 18.1 (with our smaller gallons)
Flawless performance until 50 miles from home when EAS tossed an error saying Pressure Switch was closed, permanent fault.
Cleared fault with Nano and drove on, no issues.
Fortunately, the winter storm that we were looking at was delayed by 12 hours, so with a 15 hour and 45 min 1000 mile run today, we just got a
small snow flurry and a few showers so ABS and TC were not missed.
Still need to get to the bottom of this!
I have a Faultmate II registered to Bolt, so I will pull out the old XP laptop tomorrow and have a look with that.....Who knows???
I will also check all sensors to earth to eliminate that possibility.

There are decimal points in front of the numbers.....
So a bit below 1.2, but all the others report correctly on Nano.
All report 1.7 kph static.
What stumps me is the lack of any faults reported by nano???
Also, fail of static self test.
Again, when I was able to get live data up to 30 kph, Rt Front showed only the 1.7 kph.
So, definitely a problem, but swapping in known good sensor did not work, and known good ECU did not work.
I have now confirmed that wiring is fine.
What am I missing?

Got under the dash and had a look.........
The sensor wires are so obvious, no diagram needed......Still, thanks again!
I feel a bit of a dolt for not taking a closer look first!
I am still baffled.
The sensors ring out at the connector as:
LF- .951k
RF- .943k
LR- .961k
RR- .919k
Wires are intact to all sensors.
Message center will still throw TRACTION FAILURE error a few seconds after switching on ignition
and without starting the engine or moving. So, it must be failing the self test.
Nano still shows no faults after driving a bit even though TC and ABS lights are on and it has thrown
the ABS FAILURE message at me after moving a few yards.
I can only get a fault that will show on Nano by unplugging a sensor, in this case the RT Front. Nano then reports RT front sensor failure.
From Pete12345's post, it seems the only wheel that does not get confused is indeed the Rt front???
I would conclude from this that it is an ECU failure, yet swapping in one from the Borrego that had no issues
showed the same error, then the error moved to the Borrego.

Other than having 2 ECUs with the same failure, I have to admit, I am currently out of ideas. Guess I will need to
swap in the ECU from the 99 when I get home. I cannot think of anything the vehicle could be doing to harm them, so caution
to the wind, I will have to try that......
Unless someone has another idea I can try?

Looks like the 16 hour drive home will feature at least 6 hours with ice and snow. ABS and TC would be nice, but, of course not mandatory....
Thanks for the assistance so far......

Thanks Gilbert!
You are once again a hero!
Just what I need to slay this gremlin.
Cheers!

So,
If it reports Rt front sensor error, it is actually the Rt front?
I was able to get the nano to stay connected with live data to 30kph and 3 out of 4 sensors agreed. Rt front said 1.7 the whole time.
As for wiring and plugs.......The plug connections to the sensors are a moulded plastic with a bit of Red and White wire attached.
Do these go straight to the ABS ECU? no splices??
If so, (Gilbert) does anyone have the pin outs at the ECU for the inputs so I can ring out the wiring?
Made the 999.7 mile trip South in 16 hours with no issues and in sublime comfort, so now away from shop but still keen to get this sorted.
There are several 2001 and 2002 P-38s at breakers within 50 miles of me, so I can get another ECU or sensors if needed easily and cheaply.
I may get snow and Ice on the return and whilst not necessary, ABS and TC are nice to have......
Cheers, and Happy Thanksgiving to those who celebrate it!
Tom

Update on the situation with Bolt.
I put her up on jack stands to lube the ujoints and do a general inspection in preparation for a 2000 mile RT South to see the family.
When I did the wheel bearing check, I found the RT front bearings were toasted.
Left seemed ok, but as they are stock and with 185,000 on the clock, I ordered both sides.
This made me think that possibly the RT ABS sensor had been damaged by the eccentricity in the hub.
It looked undamaged, so I checked it against a known good one and resistance was close, so I swapped it in anyway.
Same problem, however, I did catch the Nano actually telling me there was an electrical fault with the RT Front sensor
and that this had happened 6 times. This is the first time that It has actually given me a fault read out.
I also got it to stay connected long enough to get a speed reading for all 4. RT front is dead. Stays at 1.7 kph

So, 2 questions......
First, do I recall reading posts that have said the Nano is a bit dyslexic when it comes to L and R sensors? Is the problem really on the left?
Second, If the sensor is ok, what set of plugs does the ABS go through to get to the ECU. Kick panel plugs are a bit tatty, but cleaned
recently (Need to chop and solder them soon.)
I am temporarily not able to access Rave from here.
New theories?

As an aside, the front hub swap out was the easiest thing I have ever done on a front end! Great design.
Took 20 min to remove the old one, and a bit less to put it back together, and that is including the brakes and wheel.
The same job on my 85 Classic would have been all day.

This started on a dark and stormy night last Christmas......
I was driving home from California on the Coast Highway so as to avoid a large Sierra snow storm on highway 5.
the coast route had snow and ice as well, and as soon as I hit it, I got ABS and TC lights on! Not sliding or braking, so coincidence????
Pulled over, cycled ignition, and issue went away for about 10 miles, then on again.
Pulled off again, attached Nano, and looked for faults. None reported for brake system??
So, as it was 3am and I had been driving for 14 hours, I drove on.
Oddly, the ABS and TC seemed to be actually working...

For the last year, I have looked into the problem a couple of times, and again, no faults are ever reported by Nano.
When you turn on the ignition, and without starting the engine all 3 amigos go on.
After about 15 seconds, the Brake light goes off, and the message center beeps telling me I have an ABS failure.
Once I start the engine, and move the vehicle a small distance, (the usual distance that is needed to extinguish
the TC and ABS lights) the message center tells me I have Traction Control Failure.
I have 2 2002s here, and a 1999, so I compared readings from the Nano.
I get 2.33 to 2.35 volts on all sensors on all 3 and the nano says I am doing 1.7kph at a standstill.

Since this is an issue of the system failing at self test and before even starting the engine, and since all initial
readings for all 3 vehicles are virtually identical, I thought possibly it was an issue with the ABS ECU. So,
I pulled the working ECU from the 02 Borrego, and placed it in Bolt.
The issue went away for about 100 yards, then came back with the same message center warnings.
Anyone have any ideas so far??

Now, it gets stranger......I took the known good ABS ECU back out and installed it back in the Borrego.
The Borrego now has the SAME SYMPTOMS!!!!!
Identical behaviour when I switch on ignition.
Installing the ECU in Bolt for 5 minutes seems to have affected it. Again, no errors logged to be read by Nano!
Now I have 2 02s with the same issue. One that started on the road, and the other started in the shed by swapping in the ECU to Bolt.
Can anyone think just what is going on here, because I am stumped!
I hesitate to try the ECU from the 99, because it works...... but may take the Borrego ECU and try it the 99 to see if the problem shifts as expected........
Cheers,
Tom

From your last post, I would lean more toward a bad earth point.
When you turn something on, (especially a high current drawing device like lights) and something else acts up on a P-38,
It is usually an corroded or loose ground.
New fuse box will certainly not hurt, but run through the earth points as well.

That's what I suspected as well, but no faults logged, and for the brief time it lets me look at live values as I speed up, all sensors are returning data????
I will dig into it further.
I have checked both front sensors with an ohm meter and they look ok. The plastic surrounding the pins crumbled however, so I need to get some weather pack connectors and replace them.
Will check rears when it dries out this weekend.