Doesn't look like its very obvious, but this should help there with Excel
Still works in office 365 so it should be the same in 2013 or at least similar enough.
The same lot run the Newbury showground spares day I think - it is busy when I've been though thats been a few years now, and lots of P38/Disco 2 era stuff there. Probabbly more of that than any other models other than defenders. My mate likes to go to try and pickup Series bits, but they are getting sparse now.
Might also depend exactly what you have got as to if its worth going (how much and what parts?)
No problem, To have got them that far must have been far from simple! Hopefully someone can give you an answer, if its like the earlier models I wouldn't expect that bit to be moving if it contacted the sensor, but really need someone who has been more hands on with it to say for sure.
If you right click your uploaded images then choose open image in new tab, you will get the links that work (same photos as posted above).
Your one may be better made than Britpart or ECP own brand though remember. New one would also be rust free and clean, old one a different story!
dave3d wrote:
For what purpose other than malevolence? They have skills that should be put to good use.
Can be search engine manulipation - the more links from different sites there are can effect some of their algrothims etc.
I've seen similar editing at a later point done on the LPG forum with posts as well though its fairly rare. Other boards I post on have a short window of time that you can edit the post on as a standard user, phpBB doesn't seem so restrictive by default (though that could be its so user-unfriendly to setup in the first place that it can do it, but just hasn't been setup to do so)
It was a while ago when mine was fitted. Either it moved, or it got drilled out. I'm fairly sure it moved though.
Theres other dodgy looking urls in the rest of his posts if you check https://rangerovers.pub/user/fotso/posts as well.
Seem to remember seeing the same issue on the wheel bearing on the Disco, and the bit in question could be rotated there as Richard says above. AFAIK its the same bearing/hub on both vehicles as well. This was an ECP own brand one in this case as its what I could get at the time (Q-Drive I think).
When I've had that sudden change, its been a chunk of gasket thats let go and left a gap. You can usually seem some marks where its leaking. Could be either end of the manifold, see if you can see any sign of where it may be leaking would be where to start. Much easier if you can get it on a lift. Wouldn't be a bad idea to give bolts a good soaking while your under there too.
Biggest problem your likely to have is finding somewhere to fill it round that area - I drive on gas on a daily basis (though not a p38) and the last 18 months has seen stations disappearing leaving gaps in a few areas that were previosuly fairly well catered for.
https://autogas.app/ shows locations of stations
https://www.lpgforum.co.uk/ also gives more general LPG help if you need it.
Photos of the install if you don't know what you have may help - its a bit easier to upload photos on the other forum if you need to do so and can't here, though Gillbertd has put a sticky up on doing so here.
Its used to recover the vapour from the petrol tank, which is then later drawn into the manifold and burnt rather than releasing it into the air when you remove the fuel filler cap.
It sounds like a dead spot on the sender track to me. I've known when that happens (which I've had on other vehicles) that once it reads something it knows is invalid, the gauge will act strangely until its past that point and power cycled. The cars I've had that have had that sort of fault have been gas converted vehicles, and it seems they are more likely to show the issue as they stay at a similar level in the tank for extended periods on gas.
Could be a bad connection, only way to really tell is get into the sender unit and start looking at it. If there is a plug involved, it may be one where it goes through the floor but I wouldn't know which one that might be, Rave would tell you if noone else can on here.
If you can get to the sensor output you could test it with a multimeter and moving the level sensor about.
It may have a fault code logged if you have a Nano to look at it, just in case its the cluster playing up as well, that might give you a better idea where to look. I know the Galaxy I've got logs an invalid fuel level message as its on gas so doesn't drop as the car expects it to when driving.
If its consistant at the same level of fuel in the tank, its more likely going to be the tank sensor than anything else.
Given you can still get leaf springs for Series Land Rovers, I don't see them being completely unavailable. Dunlop ones maybe, but hopefully others will still be available. If they are stored in good conditions them being a few years old shouldn't be an issue either.
Sounds like a broken wire on the brake switch to me or bad contact in the connector. You could pull the brake swtich out and test it with a meter - I would suspect Rave would tell you exactly what it should produce in each state if you were to look at it, but most only have a few contacts so it should be fairly clear when you look at it whats going on (i don't know the p38 well enough to say for sure how many pins it may have, but worst case they usually have 3 or 4, one being a ground if its a 3 pin type and the others swapping between closed depending if the switch is pressed or not)
Without trying it I seem to remember you need the seperate power supply to do that with the pc, I don't think it will draw power to boot up on usb but may be wrong there.
New ECU is in, not sure if I was doing something wrong but took 4 attempts to get it to actually sync as detailed above. Not sure if it made any difference, but entered the EKA using Nanocom on the last try.
Suspect the battery is a bit flat which may not have been helping either. But its now running on all cylinders again. Now to just properly fix the wiring which was bypassed to eliminate the gas ecu from being the problem.
I'd guess that plugging it into another vehicle should see it power on - I'd assume (perhaps wrongly) that the power pickup is the same on the p38 as other vehicles so it should boot up, even if it can't find anything to speak to.
I've managed to obtain one with the right part number now - its going on there tomorrow hopefully that will work!. I'd have gone with your fix if it wasn't for the unknowns around the rpm counter side of things.
It doesn't look like theres a socketed eprom or similar to control it, so I can only guess its the wrong board in the box for whatever reason. Case is aluminimum so I'd have thought it shouldn't suffer too much but who knows!.
This seems to show the other part number - IE the correct one if I'm reading it correctly?
Not sure what to make of that if I'm honest!
I can only assume that either the ecu is the correct one in the wrong metal box/wrong label on box, or has been reflashed with the right firmware? Though what the other board is doing seems by its location to be immobiliser related, so if this is the original board or one thats been put in there for some reason I don't know (likely reason being water damage due to the leak down the side of the windscreen we discovered eventually).