What is you you send Paul? Customs get upset with certain descriptions and simply putting Car Parts isn't accepted for some reason, you have to put exactly what car parts you are sending.
I know sending "car parts" domestically some carriers don't like either - the reason seems to be that some car parts aren't allowed - Airbags, glass panels, seatbelt tensioners, some carriers also won't take tyres, steering wheels and other things. I'd guess its a combination of that, plus customs if they are looking to calculate duty etc like to be more precise as to what they are dealing with, potentially without having to open said package in most cases.
"If you paid up front or made a deposit and cancel in the cooling-off period you’ll be entitled to receive all of the money back. The only exception is if you asked for services to be provided during the cooling-off period, in which case the business will keep what’s necessary to cover the cost of services provided up until you cancelled."
I would imagine that the labour (of fitting the lpg system) would count as services provided? Might be different in the event you were selling bits to be fitted rather than selling bits and fitting them.
This bit from the same page also relevent
Cancelling a service you arranged while on the business’s premises
If you haven’t formed a contract with the business for the services you won’t have to pay anything. If you’ve paid up front for the service or made a deposit you’re entitled to get all of it back.
You may have a contract even if there’s nothing in writing, for example if you’ve accepted a quote, paid the fee or a deposit or verbally told them to go ahead with the service.
If you’ve formed a contract with the business and you cancel, you’re unlikely to get all your money back unless there’s a generous cancellation clause written into your contract.
The business could:
charge a cancellation fee
hold some or all of your deposit to compensate for their financial loss (eg where they set aside time to provide the service and can’t book another job for the same period)
demand money if their loss due to your cancellation isn’t covered by any deposit
Yeah if the airbag ever goes off thats going straight into the drivers face was my thoughts on the steering wheel one. The real question is just why though? The replacement for the battery strap is also another highlight of the thing. I think the arch extensions look like they have been added as well, and the handle on the boot with the LR badge above the numberplate does look like its off a Disco. The real question is why anyone would even do that....
Shouldn't that be CONFUSED OF WALES!
The only bit that looks like a Land Rover bit to me other than the badges is the front grille. At least its an earlier one and not one of the snapped chassis range (though the MOT history suggests its starting to suffer with corrosion as well, and suggests whilst it was sat off road for some time, not as long as 12 years).
My guess would be its been involved in a prang and repaired with whatever was to hand at the time rather than the correct bits?
You run on petrol often enough from what you've said - presumably under the same sort of conditions, so what sort of figure do you get from that? Thats probabbly the best comparison your going to get, somewhere around 20% less if comparing like for like used fuel in litres should be around what you'd see if its running correctly.
I get around 360 miles out of 120 litres on a 4.0 Disco 2 at best. Yours seems a bit low, but that could be down to driving conditions. Mine is lower if its used round town or on slower roads than if its used on the motorway.
Not good, If it is that type of stuff its horrible to remove. It might help to keep the bit indoors where its a bit warmer at present to allow the glue to warm up that way first. Otherwise the other way they tend to tackle the pu glue is with a cheesewire type arrangement. Theres some details in Rave for the other panels (windscreens and rearmost windows) but nothing mentioned about that seal your dealing with. It does show a combination of the tool posted above and the cheesewire method. I'd guess it comes with the metalwork as one piece looking at whats in there.
Theres a few solvents mentioned when you look around for something to remove pu adhesive, but the main one mentioned is Acetone - which you've already tried. So either Acetone isn't going to do it, or its some other type of adhesive.
Could it be windscreen bonding/PU adhesive? If it is then they tend to cut it out. Not sure how the bond is done on the sunroof, but would getting a windscreen removal tool like this > https://www.amazon.co.uk/Windscreen-Remover-Rubber-Bonded-Removal/dp/B01MQ2BR58 be any use?
London has 3 different things going on - the congestion charge itself (£15 for all vehicles). The ULEZ (same area as congestion zone but only some vehicles charged) and the LEZ (Lorries and busses and other large vehicles). The ULEZ zone is £100 daily charge for larger vehicles currently if they don't meet the required standard, the LEZ standards are different, but if they aren't met then its either a £100 or £200 charge (LEZ only applies to larger vehicles, but broadly speaking covers most but not all of the area inside the m25, the ULEZ currently is the same area as the congestion charge, thats changing later this year).
As said by Richard above, the approach is different, and works out that if you can afford the charge you can still do what you want. Last I saw the scheme they were setting up in Glasgow was more along the lines of if you drive in the zone with an unsuitable vehicle, you will be fined.
I'd think (but it is a bit of a guess) that you want to press and hold on the link to get a menu to appear, and should be able to select copy from there. Chris might be the better person to say as I'd suspect its similar to doing it on an iPad.
I'd add if its really wet, I've found a carpet shampooer (the 3 in 1 type cylinder) or just a plain wet vac and then using either heat or a dehumidifier will dry it out quite quickly. Working A/C also helps in that respect, ideally if you can let it run for an hour or so with the temp set to highest and recirc tends to do the trick. Shampooing seems to actually help to dry it out overall (it seems to dry quicker I've found like that, not sure why or if it just seems thats the case).
I found that after leaving a car off the road since lockdown 1 (its been sorned all that time) that it had gone a bit nasty inside. Unfortunately I discovered that early in December. A good going through with the carpet shampoo in the machine and then a couple of hours with the A/C running like that dried it right out. Though it wasn't saturated to start with, just mouldy in a few places. I've had a couple of the crystal type dehumidifers in there (no way to get power to it where its parked other than a temporary extension lead) and they hadn't soaked anything noticable up the last time I checked.
Well spotted. Well first thing would be to see why thats on with Nano or similar diagnostics then?
I'd wonder if you have a flap in the cooling system not working how it should? Can't see much chance of fluid levels being affected by turning the car, but a loose flap maybe?
No dreaded cheque book symbol is there?
Maybe "Oh" means they need to find a heated screen and one of their competent members of staff to fit it?
If its this lot > https://nationwidewindscreen.co.uk/ it does say there is a lifetime guarantee on it (Autoglass offer the same) and at least he did get it replaced. Though what happened there should not have happened obviously.
If on the other hand its this lot > https://www.nationwiderepairs.co.uk/motorglass/ Then even their website doesn't appear to work...
A once over of the propshafts also wouldn't go amiss. Is it a manual or Auto? Petrol or Diesel?
When I've had a windscreen done by Autoglass the local van that did it, had a pull out roller on one side (a bit like an awning) that gave him an area to work with the car covered from above in the event the weather wasn't good (which mine was being done in November and weather wasn't too great on the day in question).
The advantage of not doing it now would be that you might have it new when there isn't regular gritting going on to chip it again. Though the other advanage of doing it now is your bound to get a chance to test the heated screen fully. Also the thing I've noticed having had 2 screens crack like that (both on the same car) is that the crack tends to spread over a couple of weeks. The current cracked screen started off with a stone chip that was smaller than your hand, in the space of a couple of weeks its spread across 3/4 of the width of the screen with the cold weather.
And on supplier, LRdirect are usually fairly good and appear at a quick look to be the cheapest
Good news if it turns out to be true Richard.
The only other option I can see is Britpart. Though at least they are an easy part to swap if you discover they are upto the usual Britpart standards....
The ones used on the Disco 2 do bolt on and are a completely different design, so those won't help you.
You've still got locks garage nearby then? Though until you fix the mpg issue its probabbly pretty pointless anyway.
I've deleted that station now