Just discovered the same having been over to my mothers, the stations on the main route seem fine, but others (the ones that are usually cheaper) seem to be out completely of both petrol and diesel.
dave3d wrote:
Has anyone one looked at putting an LPG tank in at home? You see a few above ground tanks in rural locations round here.
Calor are one of the biggest players. If you are spending a couple of grand a year it might be worth it.
If you don't have mains gas and have oil central heating as well, it would be well worth switching over.
Birmingham Autogas will deliver a skidded unit (drop in place, hookup to electricity and its ready to go once filled up) for around £6k when I enquired about it. You'd need a suitable hardstanding for it to sit on and a suitable electricty supply to run the pump off. They would also be able to fill it, though that might depend where you are located as to it being a viable option or not.
As Richard says above, Flogas seem to have real issues for some reason (apparantly the amount of time they are having drivers sat waiting to fill up?) so seem unable/unwilling to actually supply to many places. That said, the local Shell which hasn't had any LPG since the beginning of February, also seems to be having problems getting diesel some of the time as well as frequently when I've driven past that way the price for both on the sign is blank.
Trouble is I can see a lot of the places that currently offer it telling them to remove the tanks as no doubt the one bit of Flogas that is still running at normal pace is the tank rental fees, with them using dropping sales volume as justification to do so (as they will obviously struggle to sell any given they haven't got any to sell).
Don't know what Flogas would have done if the weather was colder this winter, its hardly like its been cold enough for them to claim high demand for supplies.
power on Nanocom
press R-Rover p38
Choose engine type (EDC)
This should show 4 options (Going off motronic here as I don't have the edc module)
Press the righthand arrow twice (next to the red circle with white x on it at the bottom) to scroll across - Edit having checked the emulator Jack posted below, the EDC menu is slightly different to Motronic at this point.
Select BECM
options
Right arrow twice - I think wiper speed may be the setting you want here?
Press X
Select alarm
The top setting "immobilizer" is the one for passive immobilisation
Then x again
press write settings
Should then be done, you may find you need to x back out to the main menu to be able to start the car and test.
If you can't see/access those options, check you have both unlock codes for the p38 entered - in your case unlock08 (p38 systems) and unlock07 (EDC). If either are missing, login to https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/restricted and expand the codes bit on the righthand side of the page, and check if you have the codes there. If you do, enter the missing one into the Nanocom, if not and you've brought the edc and p38 modules, then you need to ask Blackbox to assist you. You also need the green lead, but that should be all ok if you brought the kit to work with the diesel p38.
On the Nicad power question I gather there is a backup battery on the sounder, so it keeps going if it has the main vehicle battery disconnected and its been set off. Impression I got is only some cars have it. I guess Richard didn't see that question in answering the rest of the above or possibly you post edit crossed with his reply, I think he has dealt with one first hand that failed. Not sure what impact the battery failure might have, but given the age and type of part it is i'd think failure fairly likely.
Might be more info in Rave about it if you want it from the manufacturers side as to what should happen?
Gilbertd wrote:
Nitrile rubber is OK with Ethanol up to 95% and as fuel lines on modern, by which I mean anything later than about 1980, use Nitrile rubber hose rather than pure rubber, they should be fine.
You say modern, but theres a surprising amount of vehicles on the e10 compatible list that aren't compatible that you'd expect to be. Most of which seem to be direct injection engines, but some of them are upto 2007.
As far as I can tell Morrisons offered E85 and B30 (Diesel) upto 2010, at which point the Government removed the 20p/litre duty difference, so they stopped offering it. Doesn't look like anyone else in the UK offers it except for some firms as racing fuel at around £2/litre (and that price might be somewhat out of date with more recent events).
karlos01 wrote:
we got a sailing with Stena line to Ireland in few months @pierre what they like to sail with
going from Liverpool to Belfast
Its been a few years since I used Stenna line, that crossing is slow and there isn't much to do on it either. There was wifi on board, but at the time it was barely usable as its sattelite based and got everyone bored with nothing to do browsing on their phones etc.
Food was pretty good at the time from what i remember, though wasn't particually cheap.
If you can get a cabin at least you can sleep through some of the journey to make the time pass a bit quicker.
I tended to prefer crossing to Dublin from Holyhead as its a quicker crossing, work came to prefer that as it was also cheaper.
The ferries generally aren't a problem - Stenna Line say nothing about LPG and I've used them multiple times, Irish Ferries or DFDS (one of them can't remember which) Just say something about it needing to be shut off when on the ferry (Can't remember exact wording, but it didn't seem like they wanted you to manually operate the shutoff on the tank, and not something they could easily check). The impression I got at the time was that if the gas was shut off when the ignition was off then this was good enough (so the electronic valve would do this).
May be different on the routes to Europe rather than Ireland, but it didn't seem to be a problem. Might have changed in the last few years as its been a while since I've been out that way.
I can't see P&O surviving this, it seems a desperation measure as they would be forced to try and compete on price to attract any custom. Seems odd they removed the restaurants as my experience of them is theres very little to actually do on the ferry whilst your crossing and it seems an easy money maker. Though I guess a 90 minute crossing is a bit different to a 4 or 8 hour one to Ireland depending where your going from/to.
You'd be able to clear the message with Nanocom, but the source of the error might well cause it to come back again if its not fixed. I'd think a later vehicle like yours would be Wabco D but may be wrong there, it won't do any harm going into the wrong one, it just won't work (probabbly won't talk to it at all I'd guess).
It may have come on for a different reason, so the first thing you want to do is connect and read the faults to see what its complaining about, it may be something unrelated, or may be a loose connection if they haven't pushed it in fully. Or maybe a faulty sensor if its living up to the usual Britpart reputation.
Cutting the sensor cable is not going to help, it will only give either an open circuit or short circuit fault depending what you do after cutting it.
If your committed to the MOT/NCT test tomorrow I'd try clearing it and hope for the best, you might get through it then be able to sort it afterwards if the light stays off during the test (clearing just before you get to the test centre might just be enough to get through depending what the fault is).
More of our diesel comes from Russian sources - around 18% seems to be the figure put about for that and I'm sure we use an awful lot more of that than the gas thats used overall.
Where are you finding LPG at 53p/litre? Its hard to find any round this way at the moment, my most recent fillup was at 89.9!
As Richard posted, https://autogas.app/ and https://www.filllpg.co.uk are the more reliable sources of stations for UK users.
For Scotland, theres a partial list at https://www.gleaner.co.uk/services/lpg/autogas/ and Flogas seem to have fixed their stockist list now at https://www.flogas.co.uk/stockists so you can filter for just autogas. Both of those will only list their available locations though. There isn't anything for Calor anymore.
Filllpg seems to have suffered from some unidentified issue leading to the app being pulled from the play store - more info here https://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=15962 This seems to stem from the website being horrendously slow for some reason.
You also have https://www.mylpg.eu/stations/united-kingdom/ which isn't the best for the UK.
For your purposes I'd think the autogas.app one is the best bet for a quick look. The only ones that show prices are Autogas.app, Filllpg and mylpg.eu all of which are based on user provided data.
I've used it to repair broken heated window elements before, though I'd describe it more as paint than glue personally. Is Richard's suggested fix not possible?
Its also marked as +GCC so does look like they are Gulf market vehicles, could well be the same about the warning being printed on it as well, no idea what the rules in that area of the world are on that sort of thing.
Gilbertd wrote:
What I can't work out is what is the difference between CRD101240 and CRD101260, both described as Glass Assembly-Exterior Mirror RH Convex Electrochromatic Mirrors [ (V)YA430702 ], other than 260 is NLA from JLR but is available, and even more expensive, from LRDirect.
Microcat lists CRD101260 as being for LHD. It doesn't say RHD against the other one, but I'd guess thats the difference. Quite what the difference is I'm not too sure in actual use, but there must be some sort of difference? Given they are listed as Convex mirrors, I would hazard a guess that the view from them is angled somehow differently as it would be in a different position in relation to the drivers view?
Sloth wrote:
Gilbertd wrote:
They have got to be joking!!!!!
I take it the camera they took these pictures on is from a similar vintage....
So 8k for one of the oldest P38s with an actually unknown spec really, on springs, a remote fob issue that could even end up as being a BeCM swap that hasn't been programmed properly, and who knows what else is wrong - there is no way that is the end of the list of faults. And what is going on with that thing on the lower tailgate? Clearly whatever it is for is missing.
The ad just reads... 'we're too busy/lazy to sort it out but still want top money for this polished turd'
8 grand and they can't even post decent photos of it either, let alone the various issues listed
Garvin wrote:
Pressure test kit is a bit OTT for home DIY leaks - the drop in pressure tells you there is a leak but Mk1 eyeball is still required to determine where it is. I’ve never had much of a problem determining if coolant is leaking and where, and waiting for everything to cool down is not that much of chore - good excuse for an extended tea break! Besides which, the system needs refilling properly with engine running to ensure no air locks, some heat through the heater matrix is a good sign that there is coolant actually flowing through there and will test the O rings with heat as well as pressure.
If you can see the source of the leak then its not needed as you say. However if you have one of those pesky leaks that you can't quite locate (for example one that only leaks some of the time) the pressure helps not so much by the loss of pressure, but more by visible leakage that you can get hands around without having boiling coolant dripping onto them when your searching for the source. Most of the time its not needed I agree, but they are a useful tool. The set I brought was similar to the one linked, but was nowhere near as expensive as that one (and they all seem to be that sort of price upwards now).
I think someone on here (possibly Morat?) might have butchered an expansion tank cap and fitted a valve to it to do the same sort of thing.
I've found 20psi is usually more than enough to show up the stubborn to locate leaks, after all the cooling system shouldn't hold a great deal of pressure in any case (and removing the expansion tank cap obviously removes the pressure relief valve)
Duct tape does also vary greatly in quality, the cheap stuff from screwfix is fairly hopeless.
Alternative way to do it is with a pressure tester like > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265189161289
Or make your own from a tyre valve and spare expansion tank cap if you prefer. Someone else on here did that without too much of an issue.
Advantage is you can leave the pressure on without the system getting hot at the same time. Doesn't need a lot of pressure there, I think the one I've got shows around 20psi to be in the test area and thats shown up leaks you wouldn't otherwise see (other than by dropping water level)
donmacn wrote:
I’m following this to try and learn as usual, and won’t stray too far away with this question I hope: a/c wasn’t a big priority for me after getting the car, and I suspect the system was empty, possibly for some time.
I am in touch with a local a/c guy who’ll come and check out the system once the car’s back on the road. When I confirmed the system was empty, I did change the condenser when I did the heads and camshaft and added up dyed lubricant as advised by the a/c guy.
But would a compressor be damaged or need replaced if the system has had no coolant?
The worst thing generally for an A/C system is moisture - I've seen it ruin a compressor but that system had a hole in the pipework that had been present for several years. There is a dessiciant canister in the system which can capture moisture, but obviously it has a limit on how much.
When you regas it will first vaccum the system and then try to hold that vacuum, this should show up any obvious leaks and should get rid of anything in the system that isn't wanted to a degree (moisture should boil off with the reduced pressure AFAIK).
The system shouldn't try to run with too low charge so shouldn't be any reason to suspect the compressor of damage, and theres very little way to tell without trying to put refrigerant in and see if it works.
I've had a system sit empty for a year or so with no charge and got it to charge sucessfully once we found the leak (someone elses badly refitted pipe with a trapped o-ring) and its been fine since. You could get a nitrogen test done to test for leaks as detailed above if you weren't sure.
Sounds to me like a fuel issue, most likely a small leak allowing air to leak into the system, taking time to start would be the time it takes to flush the air out of the system. No idea where to suggest you might want to look though, has the fuel filer been disturbed recently?
The later ones have to be type approved as well, anything registered from 1st March 2001 has to be. Should in theory mean theres more precious metal content in them (equilivent to the original), also meaning they are more effective but more expensive at the same time.
The cat (being one of the hotter bits of the exhaust) also doesn't suffer from condensation as much as the bits further back, so I find they don't tend to rot so quickly either.