Only found out about this in the last couple of days, but worth a read for anyone who's passed their test after 1st Jan 1997

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/new-rules-for-towing-a-trailer-or-caravan-with-a-car-from-autumn-2021

Effectively you will automatically get cateorgy BE added to your license at some point in the Autumn, allowing towing of trailers upto 3.5T rather than the previous restrictions. Not exactly the same as those who qualified before, but much closer to it than is currently allowed.

davew wrote:

EDIT: Oh dear... Just looked on YT under 'carbon cleaning HHO machines'... On one vid. a D-I-Yer was adding 8 teaspoons of Potassium Hydroxide to a litre of the water used...!! Only a matter of time then until someone on YT suggests just squirting Oven Cleaner down the intake to decarb. instead ??

Thats already been suggested, not a p38 thing but it is one of the "fixes" for sticky VNT vanes on the VW diesels used in the Galaxy/Sharan forum, at least I think thats whats being suggested with the "Mr Muscle" fix.

It would seem that spraying the water through a spray bottle rather than pouring it might be a more reliable way to get it into the engine without cutting out via the carb?

its not unknown for a seemingly pointless post like the first one, to be later edited by either directly editing the post, or modification of the signature. We used to see it a bit over on the LPG forum with that sort of thing, though its not the most common of things to see. Think a lot of them are trying to figure out if they can easily make a bunch of posts without being blocked usually.

I've seen far worse, and I'm surprised that given Strangerover owns a D2 as well that he's considering the above to be serious. This for example (yes that is the carpet you can see through the floor from the wrong side)

I see what you mean now, Was expecting more of a DTC type error rather than what looks like false information. Ideally you need someone with a Lynx and working HEVAC to confirm if theirs shows the same thing to know if its a bug or otherwise.

PC38 wrote:

Dear Richard,
Indeed. Connections look fine and have been contact cleaner cleaned. The workbook comes on as soon as the HEVAC powers up. Has anyone had experience of these Lynx devices not being able to delete error codes?

Not sure on the Lynx (most here seem to use Nanocom or Hawkeye) but I've known some of the modules to still show errors after clearing until the ignition is cycled again. Of course if the error isn't fixed, it may clear and reappear again.

Can't see anywhere in the post what the error your actually getting is though (might be there but I can't see it!)

PC38 wrote:

Dear Brian,
I take that as a compliment, mine were made up the same way as the un-switched ones, just cut away less. No idea Discoveries have them. I managed to find the original thread.
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2205-load-space-lighting although i ended up ditching the Classic LED units in favour of the ones from e-bay.

It wasn't meant any other way, it seems they are a commonly used light on the Freelander and Disco 1/2 - AMR2329 and probabbly other lesser vehicles given the Austin Rover logo on the one of mine and this example > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184808829169

Yours looks a lot cleaner and nicer though than this grubby example. I only recognoised it after having to fix mine when it got put back into the headlining (switch corroded so wouldn't work reliably).

For anyone looking for the varient with the switch, they are used on the Disco 2 for the rear seat area (rear seats as in the full size rear seats, not the ones in the boot area).

If its the two large spanners, they do work on both engines to remove the whole thing, I've used mine on both. Though when it was used on the td5 I think the angle grinder had to come out to remove some damage where someone had previously attempted to remove it without the correct tool (looked like they had tried to use a chisel or an axe maybe by the amount of marks on the nut faces).

Think it may have also been used on a diesel p38 by my mate on his mate's P38, not 100% sure on that.

Theres 4 codes being logged though seraching for the definititions of them comes up with the following
P1775 - might be generic gearbox fault in LR meanings rather than a specific fault
P1777 - step motor (can't see anything much really LR specific for this one maybe again a better definition can be found for this)
P0722 - Output speed sensor
P0740 - TC clutch control circuit

That would seem to point to an electrical issue of some sort rather than a fault with the box itself. Slipping and burnt bands etc would normally contaminate the fuild and make themselves much more obvious? Possible a bad feed to the box which is ok in reverse as its opening less solenoids than in drive?

You mention you checked the wiring - is this a case of looked at it for any obvious damage, or checked with a multimeter or similar method? Best bet may be a test lamp if you can manage to get one hooked up to the connectors? Pulling any of the obvious connectors apart to inspect the bits you can't otherwise see would also be a good idea just in case its gone green and furry inside where you can't see it.

Gilbertd wrote:

It's interesting that Propane with Road Fuel Duty paid is actually cheaper than buying it in a bottle without the RFD paid. Most filling stations have a notice saying not to fill bottles and as they don't have an 80% stop valve you could overfill them anyway. Then again, most have a notice saying not to use an adapter either but I've seen plenty of people using them. I know a lot of the bigger motorhomes, particularly the US built ones with a big V8 powering them, have a dual takeoff tank installed so they can run the engine on LPG liquid but with a vapour takeoff to run heating and cooking.

Thats more because Calor (and I'd single them out over Flogas as they are by far the worst offender here) are little more than a cartel operation. They are just expensive hiding behind safety as the reason for their high cost. 19kg Propane bottles are £18 for a refill at Birmingham Autogas (and I'm talking about the type of cylinders they do in Calor here, £30 deposit and they swap your empty one for a full one as a refill). Last time I asked about Calor ones the price was around the £50 mark for the same size. Yes they might have better distribution, but even collecting from the depot seems to make little to no difference in the price.

Good if there is competition at a larger scale for them, though previous experience suggests they will just try to buy their operation if its possible to do so.

There are circuit diagrams in the ETM section of rave which give quite a bit of detail, but don't run you through point by point tests of components (Which some other manufacturers documentation such as Ford TIS does).

The connector C559 carries both the lockup solenoid and output shaft speed, located under the centre console (there are photos on rave of both the connector and location of all the connectors like that). It may be worth a look at that given both feeds go through it. I'd really suggest a good look through the circuit diagrams might be an idea to start with, and as it says in the ETM look for the common points if you have multiple faults appearing to see where those bits join up.

There is a post on the top of the forum here with a Rave download if you don't already have it.

But check the battery thing listed above first as its much easier to rule out!

It might be worth checking your battery voltage on startup and for the first minute or so of running. I didn't get the fault codes you have, but did have issues with a lack of drive for a few seconds from startup when I discovered the voltage coming out of the battery/alternator was dipping down to around 9v. Was a problem with the 12v pickup (not the charge cable the other little cable) in my case, correcting that stopped the lack of drive happening from then.

You have diagnostics to pull the error codes off, so thats a good start - if they are landrover specific diagnostics (Nanocom/Hawkeye etc) then you should be able to see the xyz switch outputs (Nanocom can definitely show this, not used Hawkeye to confirm if that does). The corresponding table of outputs for gear selected are shown in RAVE so this should let you confirm if the switch is good or suspect without swapping the switch out. Theres little point swapping it if the switch appears to be ok (and usually when they fail, it starts intermittently and will clear on subsequent attempts rather than failing outright). You won't be able to do that with an off the shelf universal obd reader though.

It might also be an idea to scan the gearbox if you have suitable diagnostics to do so?

All the fault codes point towards electrical faults with the gearbox itself (solenoid faults mostly it seems). usual failure point for those is corroded connectors, so when you say you have checked out the wiring have you pulled connectors apart to check they aren't rotting inside where water has got trapped in them? checked with a multilmeter? Those more used to the p38 will probabbly be able to tell you which connectors would be the advisable ones to look over.

Ah I see what you mean. You'd think they would use the same numbers for the unlockxx code shown on the nanocom as the shop code, but it appears not! The one on the nanocom when you enter it (or look at it on their portal) is referred to as Unlock05 on the portal for Thor V8. Ncom05 looks to be Unlock08 for the p38 systems.

DavidAll wrote:

Looking at the Nanocom site it looks like you will need NCOM15 to access the Motronic engine management system. £58.17!

I suspect mine is only set up for GEMS as you were getting no access to Motronic.

Someone else may have a set up that includes NCOM15.

It's unlock05 that's needed. 15 is disco 4. I think the code you get is tied to the unit its purchased for as well.

I've got p38 and Thor on mine, if that's any help (should be Thor on a 2001)? But don't know where you are?

That would suggest you don't have the right unlock codes - or you haven't applied all of them.

You can apply them as long as the nano is powered up - I think you should be ok to do this using the connection to the p38.

Unlock05 is for Thor v8
Unlock06 for GEMS v8
Unlock07 for EDC
Unlock08 is for p38 systems

Check whats on yours at https://nanocom-diagnostics.com/restricted - click the nanocom id and see what modules you have on it, then check the matching modules show in the screen in the nanocom (I think its under utilities menu?)

Somewhat depends on what you want to do with the gas kit afterwards. The general consensus seems to be that it doesn't add anything to the value you might get for it, though you might recover some of the cost of it by reselling the kit seperately, or better still to reuse it on something else.

Hence the most likely failure would be the brake switch? Given it sees a lot of operation!

I'd imagine the hazard perceived with filling it with propane would be that any leak on the evaporator side would be ducted into the interior. Unlike a spare wheel well tank which is somewhat more robust by comparison. That combined with it being pressurised makes it somewhat more of a hazard than a petrol tank I guess? Though none of them are ideal by any means.

Its unclear what the Halford's cans contain, these by example clearly aren't the same stuff as the original fill.
https://www.thompsonsltd.co.uk/aircontopup-car-aircon-air-con-air-conditioning-top-up-recharge-refill-regas-diy-gas-can.html
"he product does not fall within the scope of the F Gas regulations - the coolant is not R134a. Instead it is a 100% compatible product that can be added directly to vehicles specified with R134a"

As said above, it seems an expensive way to avoid doing it properly, even recent prices seem to be around £50 to do a machine fill, which you then know has had the right amount put in with oil rather than guessing from a can of something they won't even clearly tell you whats in it.