They are unfortunately completely stupid - I've had one run out in front of me when doing 70mph on the A34, manage to get across the road and out of the way, take a look back at me and run back out again for a second try at cheating death. The cloud of feathers, broken indicator and headlight suggested he didn't make the second attempt successfully!
Biggest clue was the rad not getting hot, even though the gauge showed it clearly should have been in my case. (it was cool enough you could touch it until the engine was stopped)
Just checked the parts list, doesn't look like you can do that on yours as far as i can tell, as the thermostat hoses are a different size to each other.
no10chris wrote:
I’ve got a gems that I’ve done the heads on, it ticks over for hours ok, but directly it's out under load it will overheat, I’ve changed rad, stat, repaired leaking Orings and pipes, checked water pump, flushed the system twice, driving me nuts. I’m thinking there’s a problem with the block.
I’m wondering if I can put a Thor short engine with flywheel and cps , I can’t see why not, maybe a few wire swaps to cps. Anyone done this before.
Also will a 4.0 ecu run a 4.6 ? Again I can’t see why not as only stroked, same size bores ect.
Not done this, but have had the overheating under load problem here. Started off swapping the radiator - this didn't fix it, swapped the thermostat (this actually made the problem worse as when we removed my thermostat there wasn't a themostat inside the housing, just a loose bit of the metalwork floating about inside) Was in the process of swapping the viscous fan as the next step when we discovered with the new themostat that the radiator wasn't actually getting hot (or even particularly warm) until the engine was switched off - at which point you could literally feel the temp rising inside it.
We eventually found that in the process of swapping bits that the one thing we hadn't realised was the original thermostat (and therefore the new one) had been connected with the top two hoses swapped over. If you look in Rave there is a cooling system diagram that shows the actual flow round the system, this was what we noticed when tracing it around appeared to be wrong. Swapped the two top hoses over and its been fine since.
This was a Disco 2 in this case with a Thor, but AFAIK the thermostat is the same on both or at least similar enough to allow it to happen. Was down to the previous owner (the same one who couldn't fit spark plugs or the oil pressure sensor switch either!) as when i first got it, the heater was stone cold when driving it (would be ok sat idling, but any speed meant no heat at all). I suspect he had got them messed about at some point previously and ended up gutting the stat to try and stop the overheating.
Rcutler wrote:
AdamElphick wrote:
I will swap over the Stormers as not only are they nice looking but the tyres are a bit better than on my RR Sport wheels. I'll need to find some really cheap and crappy wheels for it so the scrap man can take it away when I am finished with it - any ideas for the cheapest option?
Do the breakers need to have wheels on it at all? Most around here have a lift on the back of the truck or drag it on with skates. Alternatively let it go with your own wheels then follow it down there and take them off on arrival?
Thats what I've done as well with other stuff - local scrapyard is only too happy to let me take the wheels as it saves them disposing of the tyres. If its just a shell (which the cars i've got rid of have been there) with nothing much salvageable off it you may be better finding a yard that doesn't do salvage parts and just processes metal as they will almost certainly let you keep anything you want as long as you can remove it. Or find a reasonable recovery truck driver and see if they can drag it on (just make sure they know before coming to you that its not got any wheels!)
Well done - I'm still puzzled by the Halfords but much worse comment though (how its possible to be worse!).
Looks like the problem is starting to settle down now - https://www.calor.co.uk/calor-delivery-update-2018
Have noticed a lot of the places that do have it have hiked their prices upto 79.9 going by filllpg now though.
Gilbertd wrote:
£20 + postage just for a nut and bolt is a bit steep. I'll see if I can find a D2 in a breakers locally. If they rust as fast as the D1 I shouldn't have to look that hard.
That was my thinking as well - more likely to find one suitable there. Even one off a D1 might be an option if theres one there. The D2 suffers with rear chassis rot as you well know, and a lot end up scrapped for that reason.
And yes £20 is steep for a nut/bolt, but if thats what it costs (plus posting it there ontop) to get the car usable again then its probably still cheaper than trying to find and pay an auto electrician to sort it (and taking a gamble they don't make it worse in the process).
The negative one has the same nut/bolt on mine - This is about the best bet i can find, though it would have to get to Teri somehow. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-2-TD5-OR-V8-NEGATIVE-BATTERY-CABLE-EARTH-LEAD-YTB101240/132338455149
The photo shows the bolt there, but also shows 7 available, so I'd be inclined to confirm the nut/bolt is included before purchase if thats the way to go. Unless one can be found elsewhere of course, which would be better.
Gilbertd wrote:
Neg is fine, it's a standard clamp type, it's the positive that has lost the bolt and conical nut. Question now is, does anyone know where to get the bolt and nut and she'll be sorted?
A scrap Disco 2 would be an option - I've looked in Microcat and can't even find the positive lead there (negative has the same bolt though I think and i can find that on there, will double check tomorrow on the car when its light).
There are a few leads on ebay etc - but at £20 for a complete lead not ideal but better than not being able to move the car? Replacing the lost bolt seems the most sensible option as it shouldn't involve anyone else to cause Teri a headache that way.
Negative vs positive is in regards to the mole grips suggestion - as obviously shorting the positive terminal to the bodywork is not something you want to do (swap the bolt off the negative if its the same - Which i don't know as we can't see it in the photo?
Just been out and discovered the ones on my 99 Disco 2 have those same bolts - see attached.
Its a V8 Thor if that helps any with locating the bits from anywhere else
On the mole grips suggestion i would advise if you have that as your only option then do it on the negative terminal not the positive one!
Gilbertd wrote:
Dunno, looking at the clamp I would have thought it's some sort of cone that goes on the top to squeeze the sides together. I think I've seen something similar on something like a Renault but can't be sure.
I'd wondered the same - can only thing it must be a conical washer to sit ontop of that with the nut ontop of it. I've never seen one quite like it either, though i've never needed to remove the bolt to change the battery, only loosen it.
It looks too well made for Renault - They are usually little more than two wire loops now though maybe on an older one it would be like that.
Maplins are still open, though not in France, so no help there.
Lpgc wrote:
There was a guy near me who used to have a snow plough attachment for the front of his series Landrover, dunno if it was home made from bits of old farm machinery. P38s are better in the snow than series Landrovers though?
You'd be warmer in a p38, The Series III my mate has takes forever to warm up, and even when it is warm the heater struggles.
Could it be one of these thats required? (to replace the missing bolt i mean, rather than swapping the clamp?)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-MINI-Range-Rover-Audi-VW-Ford-Battery-Cable-Therminal-Clamp-T-Bolt-10mm-NUT/192444821022
Gilbertd wrote:
No, I filled up at Flogas just down the road from where you work and asked them what was going on. There was an explosion at a refinery in Austria just before Christmas which has reduced supply. They reckon that wouldn't normally be a problem but with the cold weather they are flat out delivering to household customers using LPG for heating which they are obliged to treat as a priority. It wouldn't look good if pensioners started dying of hypothermia as they had no heating because the drivers are spending all their time at filling stations so we can run around in our V8 powered motors on cheap fuel. The guy there said that although filling a bulk tank is quicker than using the pump at a filling station, it still isn't quick so when they have multiple domestic customers and limits on their driving hours, the punter takes priority.
As you said earlier the Calor supplied stations (most but not all Shell ones) seem to have less of a problem, although they are running out as none of the Flogas ones have any at all round here (most of the BP ones that still have gas, the Shell stations that used to be Total, ASDA, Sainsburys, Morissons etc) Shell Leadenhall has had some for the last few days now, so have been topping up when I've been past there.
Orangebean wrote:
There's been a lot of chatter around various forums about LPG availability recently, with quite a few of the outlets being out of gas, due to an inability to get supplies from the refineries.
Other half went into the last remaining outlet (most of the original 5 within 20 miles of me have now closed) reasonably close to me, to gas up her P38 en-route on a cross- country trip and was told they were down to their last 500 Litres and weren't expecting another delivery for "3-4 weeks" due to a "refinery fire".
Had a look at FillLPG and a large number of outlets in the south now have red Xs- temporarily unavailable- flags.
Anyone actually know what's going on with supply? Is Big Brother killing off LPG by stealth?
Thoughts anyone?
It seems fairly random - All the local stations here are out, but I've filled up at Asda Derby on Friday that was flagged as out on filllpg. There does seem to actually be a possible supply issue - see > https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/temporary-relaxation-of-the-enforcement-of-drivers-hours-and-working-time-rules-delivery-of-lpg/extension-to-temporary-relaxation-of-the-enforcement-of-drivers-hours-and-working-time-rules-delivery-of-lpg
Carlos2 wrote:
Well now very cold and wet but a quick update.
Battery is 12v and alternator pushing 14v.
I now only have one fog light working - passenger side.
Stripped the rear panel off the tailgate and pulled the bulb holders out of the drivers rear. Cleaned up the drivers side bulb holder for the fog and reversing light and then had all the lights on .... for a while. Spent an hour jiggling connections and swapping bulbs, locked the doors somehow once and had the EAS beep.
Going to try Gilbert's suggestion at the weekend but I'm starting to think BECM clean plus a new battery just to make sure. If that doesn't work I'll put it into the garage (gulp!).
Once again I appreciate all the help.
Gilbert's suggestion makes a lot of sense to me - I'd have a look at the towing socket if I were you as well (I would guess the plugs he mentions will remove it from the circuit anyway?). the 7 pin ones if thats what you have got aren't particularly brilliant at weather resistance, and you might find its been replaced with a cheap one thats begun to rot away inside. Be prepared for the screws to be rusted solid if you want to take it apart, but have a look inside at the pins first by flipping the cover open. If its all green and nasty there then thats likely the source of the problems.
Try and find the switch and test it - A multimeter would tell you if you have a connection when its operated. Or use it in a simple circuit with a bulb and battery, if you connect one side of the switch to a battery, the other side to one side of a bulb and then the other side of the bulb to the other side of a battery then operating the switch should switch the bulb on or off (the opposite of what its doing when you don't press the switch). If it doesn't light up then either your switch is dead, or your doing something wrong, Easy way to test that is to remove the switch from the circuit and see if the bulb lights up. If it does then the switch is dead.
Also if you use a bulb it won't matter which way round the wires are as long as they don't touch each other, same applies to the switch.
Rcutler wrote:
I know its not a P38 but this has to be the worst L322 I have ever seen!
I'm not sure if the blurry interior shots are an improvement, so much done and it looks hideous. Though not the worst looking one on this thread (the super long wheelbase classic has to take that award!)
Gilbertd wrote:
If I root it so I can remove the bundled stuff that I don't need and all languages except English, will I be able to restore it to factory if I need to or is it permanent?
From what I can tell yes, you should be able to take an image of it as it is. Rooting is just to gain access to put the custom rom in place. You'd just put the original back by the same method using the image you've taken.
also the downside with an old phone is you'd ideally want one that does 4g coverage to get the best speed and signal out of it. Plus don't know about o2 but most networks don't like you putting a data sim into a phone.