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I'd say the cruise control wants adjusting, there needs to be some slack on the cable when the throttle is closed. The proper procedure is in rave, but you'd probably be able to find details on here as well as I've seen it posted before.

JMCLuimni wrote:

Totally understand....
I’m searching behind couches, under Uber car seats, in payphones for money in order to paint my LINLEY... At this rate she should be ready for public viewing in 2021.....

I'm surprised you can still find a payphone that takes coins!

Easier yes, but would also require server space and the forum software to support uploading the photos. Which on a fair few forums doesn't work for one reason or another.

I think Gordon did post something saying he was looking into it though.

on the hose question depends what hose your using, but you won't get 2 8mm faro hoses in the same piece of vent hose. You might get two copper ones in the same piece, but I'd personally put one in each as you will find it easier when it gets to connecting it up afterwards (this assumes you have a single hole tank, may be easier with a 4 hole, though suspect you will have a single hose one). And yes you want to seal the top hats to the floor somehow, I've used Tiger seal previously.

The centre fill off the towbar definitely the way to go - I've had 4 cars on LPG now, and the two I've converted myself have both had towbar mounts after having experienced the rear wing type previously. Its far easier to fill from either side as long as you get close enough to the pump to reach. Worst you might find is you have to hold the hose to stop the recoil on the pump pulling it back and turning the filler gun on some forecourts.

Redraptor141 wrote:

I still need to run the car to work as I do the work so I figured I would buy a second hand top intake off eBay (as they are only £50 ish) and do the work off the car and then have a Non-LPG spare if I ever sell it and want to put it back to standard.

I'm guessing this means you have a Thor as its a 99 model? - if so you want to be aware that the best postion for the nozzles is in the lower half of the manifold, Buying a top section so you can operate on it isn't a bad idea (as the ideal path requires to make some holes between the tracts so you can run the hoses down through them to the lower section). From what i was told by Simon when doing mine (and becomes obvious once you have it apart) the tracts up the top cross sides so piping them up and wiring the right injectors to the matching petrol injector becomes much more of a challenge than it needs to be otherwise, as well as having the injectors too far back up the tract away from the petrol ones.

Mine (a Disco 2) did have lpg on it at some point before i had it, which the only bits left of were the holes in the upper manifold, the hose/cable run under the car and nothing else. Those holes were in the upper tracts. I got a second hand manifold so it could be sorted out beforehand as it seemed to make sense to do so.

Typically for a single point closed loop lpg system where it needs the feedback to adjust the stepper motor. The GEMs one being a 5v sensor doesn't easily marry up to the ecu (if at all)

gordonjcp wrote:

What can't be done is listen in to your mobile phone conversations.

Well yes, you can, you just need something that will demodulate GSM and unpick the multiplexes. It's not something you can do with a 20 quid scanner from Tandy though ;-)

Far easier in most circumstances to put software on the phone instead to do the same thing in the event they require to do so.

davew wrote:

Yes, sounds familiar Brian; Many Retail organisations have been doing this type of thing for years too.... they use "Loyalty Cards" for all kinds of nefarious/marketing purposes

The interesting thing is that if we went into a shop and they said "by entering this shop you have agreed to be tagged, identified. followed (even if you don't buy anything) and we can sell your details on to other shops" we would be straight out of there of course !

There is definitely a rush by some organisations to send out stuff before the GDPR 25th May deadline too...

Incidentally I won't Tweet either; They 'own' you....see https://twitter.com/en/privacy#update !!

Complete side note, but its worth knowing that many shops with free wifi have it as it also allows them to track people moving round the store by their phones location. With multiple Access points down to the area of shelving your stopped at if they wanted/needed to. So half of what you state above can and does happen, though probably not with as much data as they might find useful.

I had a loyalty card with a high street chain which managed to get signed up with a misspelt surname. It was surprising to see just how much junk mail (pre approved credit card invitations a lot of them) turned up with that non existent name on them for years after that.

Gilbertd wrote:

I noticed that, any visible smoke is a fail. About time too......

Any with a DPF will fail with visible smoke - as you say about time too, well overdue.

And on the dangerous fails understand there is a distinction between dangerous and major - Dangerous being a serious risk of something causing an accident (loose wheels, lack of any brakes etc). Probably something you'd already know was wrong anyway. Both will fail the MOT, my understanding is that Major would allow you to drive away, Dangerous would not (Dangerous usually resulting in them being unable to finish the test due to not being able to test some items).

Worth reading the below rather than anything thats in the papers about it.
https://www.gov.uk/government/news/mot-changes-20-may-2018

hugh wrote:

Simon, what's RTV ?
Have the new and correct model ( as advised on this forum) Bosch Lambdas and a MAF is on the way - fingers crossed by next Thursday all will be fitted.

This stuff is RTV > https://www.amazon.co.uk/Streetwize-UKASNCMBA7149-VITAL-BLACK-GASKET/dp/B00442NWOQ/

Its on the portal page at the top - Where it says Portal Forum Memberlist Search.
Just below the banner area.

I get the same though i'm sure it used to list the recent topics a few months back.

davew wrote:

no10chris wrote:

Davew wrote: " I may well get castigated/castrated for this but I start to think about Sodium Silicate-type resolutions if it is such a leak. ">

If you could see the rad I’ve just taken out of a 4.0 that had such stuff put in, you would avoid like the plague, it TOTALLY blocked the rad, no water flow what so ever..

Should have explained better Chris... As stated I expected some 'backlash' but I meant Sodium Silicate only... Not the (expensive) stuff with 'additives' particularly those that resemble pancake mix that will block your Heater Matrix too. (Or even those 'gimicky' variants with tiny copper flakes etc) .

With tiny leaks Sodium Silicate can work... (with limitations), eg. http://catalog.miniscience.com/Catalog/Sodium_Silicate/Default.html

In this case there is no (apparent) loss of coolant, or coolant pressurisation effects etc of course, just the compression test anomally, but as also stated it could still be a tiny leak

That said I like the latest comments about NGK fakes (- although this would then likely show up on the other plugs too ?).

Assuming the plugs all came from the same box etc of course - given they generally come in 10's it would be possible to end up with a single or couple of plugs from a different batch to the rest. (as you say you have a generator that uses the same plugs, so an odd number left in the box very possible) But the markings might help to tell on this. They appear to match as far as i can see, though of course its possible the fakers have upped their game somewhat.

Gilbertd wrote:

There have been cheap Chinese copy of NGK plugs reported and there's something about the base of that plug that doesn't look quite right. Apart from anything else it appears to say Made in France on it and it seems these aren't genuine NGK. See http://hyundaicoupeclub.co.uk/engine-wheels-brakes-suspension/where-find-genuine-ngk-spark-plugs-t24689.html

This gives better info on the fake plugs - scroll though to pics 15 onwards for the bits to look at on the plugs themselves, as you almost certainly don't have the packaging to check.
https://www.slideshare.net/athangal/distinguishing-fake-ngk-spark-plug

You know the engine is getting hot, but is the radiator getting hot as well when it should do?

Not been on the road recently enough to have an MOT recorded so fair bet it hasn't been used since at least 2005, probably even longer. Agree on the interior it just surprises me theres 8 people mad enough to bid on it!

Sloth wrote:

Are those screw caps.....?

I'd love to see what the roof looks like.

Speaks volumes that there is only 1 outside shot, and thats taken so far away you can't see any details!

How about this if someone is feeling brave (or ill!)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/range-rover-classic-Suffix-B/302703119614

You use this kind of tool with the band you've photographed.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/8milelake-Joint-Banding-Cutter-Installer/dp/B00VWP5NS6/
I've generally found them to be more hassle than they are worth, the other type are easier to use as you say.

I would guess its down to the settings on the image your sharing (maybe can only be seen by some accounts not public?) As your logged in to the same account that posted it. I would imagine that if you tried using private mode on the same device it won't show up.