Not really an issue just wondering really. The RHS (mpg) of the message center is reasonably bright but not as bright as the LHS, as I set off the RHS gets duller until it's unreadable. Next day it's reasonably bright again and so on.
I've no idea what or how this is illuminated but I want to find out what needs fixing if or when I remove the binnicle in the future.
TIA.
Still not got round to this due to unforeseen issues. Just updating this thread so I don't appear rude 😉
Champion, thanks again.
Knocked it on the head for now, cold, hungry and it's started to rain, his DMM is naffed too so I'll return tomorrow with mine.
To add.. interior light doesn't come on on the dead door either, fine on all the other doors. Is that a clue I wonder?
Finally got around to swopping the door outstations, and the good front passenger door one swopped for the suspected driver's door one didn't work, everything still dead. It worked everything when fitted to the passenger door so both outstations are good.
Cheers Richard, I knew you'd know!
I'll pass on your message and get him to sign up too.
Asking for a friend who has just got a 2001 diesel, the door was dead when he purchased it just a week ago, the seller mentioned it's the out station maybe? Anywho...I'm helping him to fix up some of the minor issues it has, balljoints,exhaust, diesel leak etc but I'm no electrical genius and neither is he!
CDL doesn't work on this driver's door but will lock with the key, window and mirror also dead, nanocom won't work them either, all other doors are ok.
I've suggested we omit all 4 white kick panel plugs to at least take them out of the equation like I've done to mine. All fuses are good. Is there an obvious place to look that maybe feeds power to this door?
j_rov wrote:
Will do, got a long trip to do first so hope it holds up.
I would take some suitable bits with you to do a roadside matrix bypass just incase.
This stuff was like cement mortar and dried like it too. What I've done is use a couple of magnets, one for each 'button' to hold them tight against the glass and carefully put tigerseal adhesive over and around them using a wooden coffee stirrer stick. That, once cured, has worked, no more crackling and I suspect the rubbery glue to be very durable. Can't see the repair either once the side parcel shelf support is refitted.
I'd change the fuel filter and run a flow test on the intank pump whilst the old filter is off.
The conductive paste didn't work.
It has no 'glue' properties regardless of the snake oil words used by eBay sellers.
Oh, goodo!
Only just seen your post and just yesterday I ordered some conductive glue stuff off eBay. I'll try the glue when it comes and update.
Bugger, I'm £80 overdrawn now.
Oil spots on the drive are off the 110, swivels, seals , steering box and transfer box, bit off the gearbox too.
38 doesn't leak a drop yet...
I'm not very good at this internet thing ^^^^^^
Have I messed up? Have I linked to my bank account?
PC38 wrote:
Dear Both,
Thnaks for your replies, i didn't know conducive glue existed! I've ordered some and will have a go at the soldering whilst it ships over.
Regards
Paul C
How did you get on Paul?
I've knocked the tab off the glass on the driver's side (rhd) removing trim, now radio is rubbish.
2001 DHSE, Arial both sides and original sound system.
Ignore the new post thing above. Someone else has the same window Ariel issue, I'll tag on to that.
Thanks for the welcome fellow blokes.
Not been on for a few days and didn't get any notifications of replies, have to look into that.
Forgot to mention the A/C doesn't work either, I'll look into that when the weather warms a little.
I've developed a minor problem!
I'll make a new post.
Gilbertd wrote:
Hi Chris, glad you found your way here. Telford and not seen another P38? It was only built just down the road! Sounds like you've as much to offer to others as needing help.
Hi Richard, bit of a faff initially, my sign up link wouldn't work but signed up again and success!