Popped in to my local LR indy this morning and it's booked in for next Thursday for a look see and a tracking check too.
Hopefully they will be more "knowledgeable ".
Meanwhile I'll remove the slam panel and see if there is damage to the condenser or anything else obvious.
I'll also put a stick it note on the steering wheel with the gas weight which will either annoy them or make them grateful for my assistance in the matter. Hahaha (because I don't like using LOL).
I'll try the clutch tapping too.

Oh, I know where it is alright, the compressor that is. Just not sure where to tap it to help engagement of the clutch.
Taking the liner out is a pita if mudflaps are still fitted I discovered hahaha 😆

Cheers Richard, silly question time, sorry!
Where is the clutch? In front or behind the pulley? Can't find anything googling just "tap the clutch" . I plan to have a look Saturday, access is not good but should be better with the under tray removed. Might be obvious where the clutch is when I get a good look but just incase.....

I had me AC regassed by kwikfit 4 weeks ago, working great until I really needed it in the recent heatwave when it's died completely. How can I check if its lost its gas ,at home, or its another issue like something electrical? I have a home compressor. My initial thoughts were to power the ac compressor (2001 dhse) direct ,briefly, with the engine running to see if it then cools but chickened out in case I damaged something. I 'think' I can check for pressure by momentarily depressing one of the valves on the bulkhead? If no pressure or very little could I then pressurise the system with my compressor then spray joints with soapy water to test? But what pressure is safe? Very new to 38's and never had ac before so green with that too, do have a nanocom though!
Thanks a bunch for any advice!

I like originality too. Have you tried the guy down south, James coleman iirc. Find him on Facebook p38 uk. He has a good rep I believe.

Can't help with clip supply but have you thought about thinking outside the box?
For example, lots of various type clips are available for plumbing pipes. What diameter are the PS pipes? I'd wager they are metric and a common size in the plumbing world.
On my Defender they were 10mm iirc so I used a 10mm pipe clip with a bit of steel to extend it slightly to use the original chassis captive thread.

Separating the join was a major faff when I tried to just replace one, bloody rust welded together.

I had the awful sticky finish on everything and when it was all off the car to do the matrix O rings my wife washed them in hot soapy water and used a washing up scourer, in the UK a sponge with a plastic scourer on one side, and a tooth brush for the nooks and cranies. Took 3 goes but it all came off. I then used a back to black cream on them and they are lovely now. My plan was to paint them but now unnecessary.

Car is up and running again after fitting the replacement becm and he now has a spare working key. Replacement switch pack off ebay works too which surprised me somewhat. Door is still dead though so we can't blame a manky becm. More wiring /connector block checks to be carried out!

Bit more of an update on this. After fixing his switch pack he accidentally left the sun roof open and flooded the interior in a heavy down pour overnight. Switch pack now completely dead. Swopping it with mine has proved this is the case. Back to the dead door, we couldn't find any connectors or wiring issues and because he only had one working key, the becm, engine ecu and both keys have been sent to les at classic rides.
He has reported back with photos of water damage and burning.
Beyond repair so he has sourced another and refurbished that along with a new key for £310 iirc. All the bits came back yesterday and will be fitted tomorrow (saturday). Hopefully that will fix the dead door too.
Oh...missed a bit of the story out!
The plan,at les's request, was to drive the car to him and he would fix the issue with the door and sort another key while he waited and if he couldn't fix it quickly, my friend would catch a train back home and leave the car with him.
2 days before the trip however, my friend left his lights on all day at work so was greeted with a flat battery, key code lock out blah blah. Charged the battery and connected my nanocom and disabled the siren which kept going off but I couldn't enter the eka code, whether that was my incompetence with the nano or a fault with the becm, couldn't enter it via the door latch either, we don't know. So no driving to les and so it was removed and posted. Not ideal of course but at least we can rule out the becm as being the cause of the dead door and he will have two keys!
Used switch pack purchased off ebay which hasn't arrived yet.

I got a britpart key refurb kit from island 4x4 , around £10 iirc. Rubber bit fitted well as did the batteries the battery cover didn't fit at all which was a shame still got the chewed up one fitted.

Got front fogs on my 2001 dhse. Fan on the cooler.

Garvin wrote:

I’m not aware that Blackbox have released an updated software suite yet. I have the conversion on a note stuck to my NanoCom lid/cover.

Good idea, I'll do that now.

Cheers Garvin. I do remember reading somewhere that nano mixed up left and right something, thought it was the blend motors though not the abs sensors. My nano is only about 8 months old so I would have expected it to be updated at blackbox before despatch but, who knows!.

Findings on nanocom when the lights came on were all sensors reading 2.35v except right hand rear which was zero volts. Dmm said 5 volts at all abs sensor plugs. All abs sensors gave a resistance reading of around 1000 ohms iirc (wrote it all down but lost the notes).
So I changed the right hand rear (rhd drivers rear) sensor, £25 island 4x4 one, no difference, nanocom still showed no voltage, lights still on. Next day, fiddling, a new fault popped up on the nano, front left sensor short, resistance reading was still OK so I ordered a cheap sensor off ebay £14 posted, just fitted that and the lights have gone out yay!
Nano shows no faults and , my query, voltage is now present on all 4 sensors?
Why would that be?
Wabco D 2001 diesel .

I thought mileage was stored in the becm?
It's not much of a job to get your existing cluster out and swop really.

It was actually working fine but was recommended to fit a higher output voltage one on another forum so I did along with the recommended hankok mf31 battery.

I replaced the reg/brush pack on my diesel in around 1/2 hr, no need to remove the alternator and I'd never done one before. Just small bolts, no soldering.

It's the same size tubing (3.2mm) as the leakoffs. Worth getting Gates brand and changing the lot for piece of mind.

If it's coming from the feet vents it has to be, I think, pollen filter lids, pf gaskets or pf screws or the single screw just above the pf lids. On the drivers side, same, but add matrix leaks to the search. I had water or rather antifreeze out the drivers side feet vent which was the O rings.