And spray both the liner and the cloth.
My attempt went reasonably well, couple of small wrinkles from trying to push it into the grab handle recesses and some finger indentations where I pressed too hard. I thought the foam backing would recover there but it didn't. Still looks good though.
If you are dropping the sunroof cassette and even if you aren't check the foam seal around the outside edge, they go thin and floppy and let in water. 2 mtrs of neoprene 20mm x 10mm foam strip and a tube of contact adhesive will sort it.

Pm sent.

Possibly. The rears came out real easy and had traces of lube on them, the fronts took me ages to get out with the hubs on the bench. The rear discs were like new too when I got her so I suspect a bit of work was carried out on the ass end, might have had new sensors just prior to being laid up 5 yrs before I rescued her. Owner had passed so I had no history and his daughter who sold it knew nothing either.
I did have the right rear wabco fail on me according to the nano not knowing at the time that rr is f left so it hadn't.
Got that little snippet off here!

I got about 8 months out of one island 4x4 one of two fitted to the front axle. The other is at 15 months still good. I got a £14 one off ebay to replace the failed island one, still good. The original wabcos had to be destroyed unfortunately, the rear wabcos are still good but I don't know how old they are as I've only had the bus 15 months.

Another possible cause is the foam water shedder/seal around the sun roof, this was the leak on mine. Because the headliner shell is fibreglass the water can run almost anywhere before you see the drips. If you search my posts you should find my repair of that foam seal, unfortunately, repair involves removing the headliner and sunroof cassette, fortunately, it's cheap to fix.

Hello and welcome from me gaffer!

Pete12345 wrote:

When I did the ball joints on mine, after having to drill out the old sensors (even though they were working), I converted the sensor holes in the hubs to slots. That way I can remove the hub next time without disturbing the sensors.

I did the same.

No, fronts are longer.

We found it most useful when feeding the giraffe at the safari park.

Look at the thread below this ' headliner sunroof panel '

There's a post of mine on here somewhere explaining how the foam seal between the cassette and roof can let in lots of water. Can be seen better when the roof liner is out and replacement means removing the cassette.
If you open the sunroof and look from outside at the front left and right hand corners you can just see this foam seal. Poke it gently with a pencil or something similar and you'll probably find it's not attached and weathered and worn.

That's correct. Later diesels have the oil cooler in front of the front left hand side wheel. The brass fittings are left unconnected and don't require blanking off either.

I'd make my own out of thin CLOSED CELL foam sheet. Not shouting but any other foam will hold water or even let it pass through.

5 mtrs of 8mmx20mm neoprene foam.
£12 delivered.
It was pre glued on the wide edge which is not required as it needs glueing on the narrow edge to the cassette frame. I used a pot of contact adhesive and a brush to apply it. Using 6 x 6" lengths of m6 studding screwed into the roof cassette mounting holes made it so much easier to refit the heavy cassette and pull it up even. The foam has to compress a lot at the rear half and barely at all at the front, I did have some concerns as the foam is quite stiff but it worked a treat.

I will add a few more tips sort of related.
Pay close attention to the foam seal that goes around the outer edge of the steel frame, especially around the front end and corners. If this has come unstuck, usually around the front corners, or feels anyway floppy(compare it to the non uv exposed rear) you should replace it. Mine didn't leak at all until I removed the cassette, retrimmed the shade and refitted the cassette whilst I got on with the removed headliner recover so I could still use the car. Rain came in! It confused me for a bit until I realised that the foam seal, which I thought was just to stop rattling between the roof and cassette, is actually also a water shedder. The seal around the glass isn't perfect and any rain getting past it drips into the cassette channel and out the drain tubes. If the foam seal is iffy then some water misses the channel and ends up inside the car. My foam seal was quite bad, I removed the cassette again and renewed the foam with some closed cell stuff 8mm x 20mm off ebay iirc, glued on its 8mm edge. I then used 6 off m6 studs screwed into the roof where the bolts normally go and some m6 wing nuts to evenly pull the cassette up and then replaced the studs with the bolts one at a time. The studs made it so much easier to fit the cassette and I think it was the wrestling the first time I refitted it, without the studs, that finished off the original foam seal.
If you do decide to renew the foam seal don't go off my measurements above until I can find the purchase and confirm.
Everything is bone dry now.

Forgot about this post. To update, to fit a taller earlier condensor to a later 38 diesel involves a new genuine (aftermarket not available) compressor to condenser hose and ,of course, a new condensor.
Trim a couple of alloy brackets off and in it goes. Grill slam panel and front bumper needs removing to fit the condenser, turbo to intercooler pipework needs removing to access the compressor pipe. All gassed up and working great.

The diesel one is quite hard to see the clutch face particularly so. I've thought a blob of paint on the face would be a way here to see it engaging/disengaging.?

I'm pretty sure it'll disengage/engage as the temp reaches set point and drops.
Mine does the same, more of a cough only when ac is on, never really timed it but at a guess every 20 secs or so. No issues when driving just idling. I've only had the bus 11 months and working ac for about a month.

I know of a bearing race to enlign front drive shafts and the hub, are you thinking of that?.
If not, I would like to know too, for the future.

Loose spark plug perhaps?
Head gasket going perhaps?
I'm a diesel guy but a head gasket going on my Defender made a ticking noise as did an injector seal washer and a leaky exhaust manifold gasket.