Can't find the correct one in stock anywhere and the prices, even though they don't have any stock, is shocking to say the least, I've seen £1500 odd plus vat.
So it's the cheaper one plus the hose around £260 from island all in. Mahle brand at that price for the condenser, hose is genuine.
Bracket mod isn't as brutal as I thought, just a quick cut of two alloy brackets off the bottom of the engine cooler and maybe something knocked up to hold the bottom of the new longer condenser., not clear on that bit yet but it'll become clearer when it's in bits I'm sure.

The above is to fit the earlier and cheaper condenser to the later diesels BTW.

I'm tired , it's been a long day. But I've googled a bit and it seems the later ones are not available and pricey if you can find one. A work around involves some mods to mountings and a new hose or two, I'll have a better look tomorrow after some kip.

Right, p38 picked up from the LR indy and after pressure testing the AC with nitrogen and dye, the condenser is leaking.
So I need another one. Looking on island 4x4 there is mention of having to use a different pipe on late 2001 models, mines November 2001, but sellers on ebay don't mention this.
Anybody shed some light on that?
Also recommendations for a manufacturer please. Should I also change the dryer and pressure switch for piece of mind before taking it back to have my work pressure tested and all being well- regassed.

Thanks Richard and Marty, some useful stuff there to be getting on with.

We have a cellar, slept down there on an airbed for two nights in the heatwave.
14 deg down there, 32 in our bedroom extension built in 2001 with cavity insulation, rest of the house is 1903, bloody cold in winter, infact it's cold most of the year but I can't cope with heat so that suits me.

Thanks Richard, would ground be on another wire or does it get that through the frame?

Nano gets its power from the socket yes.

We've carried out marty's electrical latch tests on the dead drivers door latch and it failed everyone except the one resistance test. A new latch will probably fix the cdl and interior light issue but could the mirror and window non functioning be a latch fault too?
If not, does anyone know which colour wires to the window motor we would need to energise to make it go up/down to test it's not died?

I want to get a UV torch to check for AC leaks after the dye is put in, seem cheap enough on ebay, anything I should be watching out for before I buy? Would I need special goggles to see the 'glow' too? It's just in the long distance past I think I saw a guy wearing some and using a uv lamp to find a leak on some compressed air plant where I was doing some plumbing work, must be 15 yrs ago or more.

Thanks Richard.
I'll try the thermometer test tomorrow.

Had a bit of unexpected free time so I've been fiddling. As I was on my own ,with no pair of helping hands, I rigged up some cable and a switch and powered the compressor directly, there is a connector on the rhs inner wing, with the engine running and working the switch I could see the clutch working fine and both parts being driven, engine note changes too (diesel). Then, when I knew what to look for, I reconnected the original wire to the compressor, HEVAC on low , AC switch ON and restarted the engine and got back underneath, the compressor clutch is working and the pump is turning.
No cold air though.
Grill and slam panel off and I can see no deterioration to the condenser paying close attention to where the foam bits sit, all looks tickerty boo.
Being as the clutch/pump is turning does that mean any switches and/or sensors in the circuit are OK and it's likely just low gas from being short changed at kwikfit and maybe a slight leak adding to the mix?
I'm guessing the clutch wouldn't pull in if any of the sensors/switches were bad?
Then again, I wouldn't expect the clutch to pull in if the gas was low but it does!
I could see some black dirty oil mist around the pipes going into the condenser but I suspect that was from an old oil leak at the power steering pump which I fixed a few months back.

Popped in to my local LR indy this morning and it's booked in for next Thursday for a look see and a tracking check too.
Hopefully they will be more "knowledgeable ".
Meanwhile I'll remove the slam panel and see if there is damage to the condenser or anything else obvious.
I'll also put a stick it note on the steering wheel with the gas weight which will either annoy them or make them grateful for my assistance in the matter. Hahaha (because I don't like using LOL).
I'll try the clutch tapping too.

Oh, I know where it is alright, the compressor that is. Just not sure where to tap it to help engagement of the clutch.
Taking the liner out is a pita if mudflaps are still fitted I discovered hahaha 😆

Cheers Richard, silly question time, sorry!
Where is the clutch? In front or behind the pulley? Can't find anything googling just "tap the clutch" . I plan to have a look Saturday, access is not good but should be better with the under tray removed. Might be obvious where the clutch is when I get a good look but just incase.....

I had me AC regassed by kwikfit 4 weeks ago, working great until I really needed it in the recent heatwave when it's died completely. How can I check if its lost its gas ,at home, or its another issue like something electrical? I have a home compressor. My initial thoughts were to power the ac compressor (2001 dhse) direct ,briefly, with the engine running to see if it then cools but chickened out in case I damaged something. I 'think' I can check for pressure by momentarily depressing one of the valves on the bulkhead? If no pressure or very little could I then pressurise the system with my compressor then spray joints with soapy water to test? But what pressure is safe? Very new to 38's and never had ac before so green with that too, do have a nanocom though!
Thanks a bunch for any advice!

I like originality too. Have you tried the guy down south, James coleman iirc. Find him on Facebook p38 uk. He has a good rep I believe.

Can't help with clip supply but have you thought about thinking outside the box?
For example, lots of various type clips are available for plumbing pipes. What diameter are the PS pipes? I'd wager they are metric and a common size in the plumbing world.
On my Defender they were 10mm iirc so I used a 10mm pipe clip with a bit of steel to extend it slightly to use the original chassis captive thread.

Separating the join was a major faff when I tried to just replace one, bloody rust welded together.

I had the awful sticky finish on everything and when it was all off the car to do the matrix O rings my wife washed them in hot soapy water and used a washing up scourer, in the UK a sponge with a plastic scourer on one side, and a tooth brush for the nooks and cranies. Took 3 goes but it all came off. I then used a back to black cream on them and they are lovely now. My plan was to paint them but now unnecessary.