Car is up and running again after fitting the replacement becm and he now has a spare working key. Replacement switch pack off ebay works too which surprised me somewhat. Door is still dead though so we can't blame a manky becm. More wiring /connector block checks to be carried out!

Bit more of an update on this. After fixing his switch pack he accidentally left the sun roof open and flooded the interior in a heavy down pour overnight. Switch pack now completely dead. Swopping it with mine has proved this is the case. Back to the dead door, we couldn't find any connectors or wiring issues and because he only had one working key, the becm, engine ecu and both keys have been sent to les at classic rides.
He has reported back with photos of water damage and burning.
Beyond repair so he has sourced another and refurbished that along with a new key for £310 iirc. All the bits came back yesterday and will be fitted tomorrow (saturday). Hopefully that will fix the dead door too.
Oh...missed a bit of the story out!
The plan,at les's request, was to drive the car to him and he would fix the issue with the door and sort another key while he waited and if he couldn't fix it quickly, my friend would catch a train back home and leave the car with him.
2 days before the trip however, my friend left his lights on all day at work so was greeted with a flat battery, key code lock out blah blah. Charged the battery and connected my nanocom and disabled the siren which kept going off but I couldn't enter the eka code, whether that was my incompetence with the nano or a fault with the becm, couldn't enter it via the door latch either, we don't know. So no driving to les and so it was removed and posted. Not ideal of course but at least we can rule out the becm as being the cause of the dead door and he will have two keys!
Used switch pack purchased off ebay which hasn't arrived yet.

I got a britpart key refurb kit from island 4x4 , around £10 iirc. Rubber bit fitted well as did the batteries the battery cover didn't fit at all which was a shame still got the chewed up one fitted.

Got front fogs on my 2001 dhse. Fan on the cooler.

Garvin wrote:

I’m not aware that Blackbox have released an updated software suite yet. I have the conversion on a note stuck to my NanoCom lid/cover.

Good idea, I'll do that now.

Cheers Garvin. I do remember reading somewhere that nano mixed up left and right something, thought it was the blend motors though not the abs sensors. My nano is only about 8 months old so I would have expected it to be updated at blackbox before despatch but, who knows!.

Findings on nanocom when the lights came on were all sensors reading 2.35v except right hand rear which was zero volts. Dmm said 5 volts at all abs sensor plugs. All abs sensors gave a resistance reading of around 1000 ohms iirc (wrote it all down but lost the notes).
So I changed the right hand rear (rhd drivers rear) sensor, £25 island 4x4 one, no difference, nanocom still showed no voltage, lights still on. Next day, fiddling, a new fault popped up on the nano, front left sensor short, resistance reading was still OK so I ordered a cheap sensor off ebay £14 posted, just fitted that and the lights have gone out yay!
Nano shows no faults and , my query, voltage is now present on all 4 sensors?
Why would that be?
Wabco D 2001 diesel .

I thought mileage was stored in the becm?
It's not much of a job to get your existing cluster out and swop really.

It was actually working fine but was recommended to fit a higher output voltage one on another forum so I did along with the recommended hankok mf31 battery.

I replaced the reg/brush pack on my diesel in around 1/2 hr, no need to remove the alternator and I'd never done one before. Just small bolts, no soldering.

It's the same size tubing (3.2mm) as the leakoffs. Worth getting Gates brand and changing the lot for piece of mind.

If it's coming from the feet vents it has to be, I think, pollen filter lids, pf gaskets or pf screws or the single screw just above the pf lids. On the drivers side, same, but add matrix leaks to the search. I had water or rather antifreeze out the drivers side feet vent which was the O rings.

OK. Think I've found the issue, not the pollen filter lid but the screw holding the trim on immediately above it. This goes into the pollen filter housing and with the pf lid off I could see drops of water hanging off the end of this screw. Bit of dum dum and cured I think. Makes sense now why it's never leaked in before until I parked facing uphill, rainwater can pool a little in this area but not so much if parked level.

I'm normally parked on the level at home and other than slight ingress in the boot, the cabin stays bone dry. Yesterday I had to park facing uphill and we had heavy rain during this time, come late last night and I'm off to fetch the wife from work and instantly hear this gurgling sound which progressively got quieter after 5 or so miles, wife opens the door to get in and spots the water on the floor straight away.
So the noise I heard was, I guess, the fan I noticed when changing the pollen filters last summer, churning the rainwater that had got in there and flung it out the foot vent?
The p38 is quite new to me but can anyone confirm my thinking that rainwater in the fan housing can only get there via the pollen filter lid?
It's never leaked in before but this is the first time it's been parked facing uphill which may be a clue..
TIA.

I found the fronts a doddle. Top bolts access from the engine bay. Liners on the front, if you still have mudflaps are/can be a pig to get off, rear liners are easy. Top bolts on the fronts usually are corrosion free too unlike the rears. I use a cutting disc in a grinder to remove the bottom damper nuts.

Can't help much further being new to the p38 myself. However, I did read a post somewhere with a unreliable CC issue. A following motorist noticed the brake lights flickering on a p38 in front, CC was dropping out on that vehicle. Brake switch adjustment or replacement, can't recall which, gave reliable CC operation again.

Correct. Clutch also on the manual.

OK, we've been fiddling and,again, run out of time to fully investigate the dead door but we have fixed the exhaust, abs sensor and dull message center.
What we have done also is swopped out his switch pack with my fully working one which has confirmed its not that causing his dead door but has confirmed that his sunroof switch needs sorting.
On the door, we got as far as checking voltages on the good door and comparing them at the plug for the electric window. All voltages checked out the same except for the yellow/red which was dead on the dead door but live on the good door. I'm not sure if it was a yellow with red trace or red with a yellow trace as the findings aren't here but in his glovebox. I found what I think is the other end into the becm but he was waiting to desperately leave to pick his daughter up.
So that's where we are at thus far.

Is the time clock the same bulb type/wattage too? That's gone.

Cheers Richard, nice simple fix, I like them.