Hard wired my dash cam in so I haven't got a cable spoiling the look of the dash. It meant junking the fag plug and cable for a 12vdc to 5vdc with a micro usb adaptor thing off ebay.
£7 iirc.

It's what I did. You can hear the air coming out clearly.

Thinking some more...(I've never owned a car with any kind of sunroof until the 38) maybe the roof isn't enligned properly so the rubber glass seal isn't quite right. That makes more sense. I'll have a look later when it stops chucking it down. I've found THAT seal online at a price of course...

I've removed the headliner and sunroof to recover both but reinstated the sunroof cartridge only so I can still drive about. I don't think it leaked before, nothing obvious anyway but there was some staining. Anywhoo, we've had persistent rain overnight after a long dry spell and the wife was non to pleased to have water dripping on her lap at 5.30 this morning lol!
Back home after dropping her off and using a torch I can see water between the foam seal and the internal surface of the roof skin. The seal isn't sitting correctly in relation to the rest of it so I guess that's the issue.
Thinking about it further , im not sure water should actually get there unless there was a real heavy downpour that the drains couldn't cope with? All drains were cleared, they weren't blocked anyway tbf and the drain pipes reattached tightly to the cassette stubs, the waters getting in above the stub , nearside front, anyway , passed this foam seal. I assumed this seal was just for draught proofing but now I don't it must be a secondary water seal.
Bit of a bummer because it's heavy and it's got to come out again. Anybody know the part number for this foam seal ? I can't find it listed.
Tia.

I'm pretty sure they are the same just the oil cooler connections at the bottom aren't used as the cooler is located behind the fog light grill on the later models. My plastic rad which was replaced before my ownership has the two unused ports in it. 2001 dhse auto too.

Yes unplugged. My friend was reading the tests off his phone whilst I probed. He did the various movements to the latch mechanism too, I just held the probe on whatever terminal he said, dmm on beeb too and checked earth continuancy between each test. It'll be his fault somewhere along the line lol!

You were spot on Marty! Both those wires were fractured internally inside the sill cover, repaired them and everything works again, mirror, window, cdl and interior light.
You've made my mate very happy!
He's signed up to this site now too.
Only thing that's confused me is the latch test was a fail on some of the tests but it all works good? Maybe we tested wrong or something....

That's really interesting Richard, thanks for that!

Can't find the correct one in stock anywhere and the prices, even though they don't have any stock, is shocking to say the least, I've seen £1500 odd plus vat.
So it's the cheaper one plus the hose around £260 from island all in. Mahle brand at that price for the condenser, hose is genuine.
Bracket mod isn't as brutal as I thought, just a quick cut of two alloy brackets off the bottom of the engine cooler and maybe something knocked up to hold the bottom of the new longer condenser., not clear on that bit yet but it'll become clearer when it's in bits I'm sure.

The above is to fit the earlier and cheaper condenser to the later diesels BTW.

I'm tired , it's been a long day. But I've googled a bit and it seems the later ones are not available and pricey if you can find one. A work around involves some mods to mountings and a new hose or two, I'll have a better look tomorrow after some kip.

Right, p38 picked up from the LR indy and after pressure testing the AC with nitrogen and dye, the condenser is leaking.
So I need another one. Looking on island 4x4 there is mention of having to use a different pipe on late 2001 models, mines November 2001, but sellers on ebay don't mention this.
Anybody shed some light on that?
Also recommendations for a manufacturer please. Should I also change the dryer and pressure switch for piece of mind before taking it back to have my work pressure tested and all being well- regassed.

Thanks Richard and Marty, some useful stuff there to be getting on with.

We have a cellar, slept down there on an airbed for two nights in the heatwave.
14 deg down there, 32 in our bedroom extension built in 2001 with cavity insulation, rest of the house is 1903, bloody cold in winter, infact it's cold most of the year but I can't cope with heat so that suits me.

Thanks Richard, would ground be on another wire or does it get that through the frame?

Nano gets its power from the socket yes.

We've carried out marty's electrical latch tests on the dead drivers door latch and it failed everyone except the one resistance test. A new latch will probably fix the cdl and interior light issue but could the mirror and window non functioning be a latch fault too?
If not, does anyone know which colour wires to the window motor we would need to energise to make it go up/down to test it's not died?

I want to get a UV torch to check for AC leaks after the dye is put in, seem cheap enough on ebay, anything I should be watching out for before I buy? Would I need special goggles to see the 'glow' too? It's just in the long distance past I think I saw a guy wearing some and using a uv lamp to find a leak on some compressed air plant where I was doing some plumbing work, must be 15 yrs ago or more.

Thanks Richard.
I'll try the thermometer test tomorrow.

Had a bit of unexpected free time so I've been fiddling. As I was on my own ,with no pair of helping hands, I rigged up some cable and a switch and powered the compressor directly, there is a connector on the rhs inner wing, with the engine running and working the switch I could see the clutch working fine and both parts being driven, engine note changes too (diesel). Then, when I knew what to look for, I reconnected the original wire to the compressor, HEVAC on low , AC switch ON and restarted the engine and got back underneath, the compressor clutch is working and the pump is turning.
No cold air though.
Grill and slam panel off and I can see no deterioration to the condenser paying close attention to where the foam bits sit, all looks tickerty boo.
Being as the clutch/pump is turning does that mean any switches and/or sensors in the circuit are OK and it's likely just low gas from being short changed at kwikfit and maybe a slight leak adding to the mix?
I'm guessing the clutch wouldn't pull in if any of the sensors/switches were bad?
Then again, I wouldn't expect the clutch to pull in if the gas was low but it does!
I could see some black dirty oil mist around the pipes going into the condenser but I suspect that was from an old oil leak at the power steering pump which I fixed a few months back.