Fell at the first hurdle with air hissing out of the dryer. A split O ring. New one - hopefully the right size on order from Simply Bearings. They have been great with supply of bits and really fast turn round.

Many thanks Richard and Rob for all the info.

A new day and a freshly chrged battery and I will see what happens!

Good luck with the switch pack Rob.

The Nano is showing most ride height sensors out of range. Would that be because it is on the bump stops?

Yes, all lights flashing. I can get the pump running and the Nano is showing the stored heights. As It has been disabled for so long do I need to go through the setup rods routine?

Thanks Sam, top advice. The relay pin slot was the culprit and although it didn't look too bad a good clean sorted it out.
Thanks again.

Having moved on from the air bag issue the EAS ECU is not communicating with the Nano. When the car arrived it had been part reconverted from springs. The ECU was loose under the seat, the delay timer was detached and the Blue/Pink and Blue/White wires had been cut.

The ECU is refixed and contacts given a clean and Delay timer reconnected and the wires soldered up. I've checked fuse 24 and 44 and they are fine so would be grateful for any pointers on where to head next. I have tested with all doors closed.

One bit ticked off the list. It was the rotary coupler at fault. Not having seen one before I assumed I could clean it but obviously not, so got a replacement from the excellent Paul in Rusper and all is good again -- except the SRS light is still on because one of the warning lamps failed.

The EAS is the next problem but I'll do a separate post on that.

Good point Richard. No it doesn't so another thing to check. I'll try not to blow myself into the boot testing things!

Thanks Harv. I'll have a look at the rotary coupler I think as it's the only bit I haven't cleaned.

The Nanocom is showing drivers air bag open circuit. Is the cable in yellow ducting from the steering column to the SRS loom the "shorting link" which the manual says to disconnect? I can't see anything else.
I've disconnected all the leads and given them a spray clean and cleared the fault a couple of times. The only thing left is the rotary coupler.Is this a frequent culprit?
Thanks as always.

The new one is out of a 97 so I'll see how it works out. All connected up OK but yet to test it.

A previous owner had run a fly lead from the unused headlight wiper relay connection to the fuel pump relay which didn't look very nice so having acquired a secondhand fuse box I thought it would be worth looking a bit deeper. It all looked fine on the surface but...

All back together again but not fully bolted up yet. Run through the Nanocom menus and all the flaps are doing what they should but then had to remove and clean the RH blower motor that had stopped. Found a good YouTube video showing that they sometimes just need a good clean.
The only fault srtill registering is the A/C request line fault which I presume is because the system is not filled yet.
Al in all a result! Thank you for all the help.

Thanks Paul.

It's all out with a bit of a struggle with the bar across the front.

The villain of the piece was this:-

With the roughness of the spigot contributing.

The shoulder of the black link piece also needed easing as that caused a hesitation.

A round shank diamond bit in a dremel eased the quadrant with a lot of caution.

As Marty has suggested it is back together with silicone grease and seems OK so far.

Just got to get it all connected up tomorrow!

Ah, OK so it's the whole thing out. I shouldn't have done the O rings a few weeks ago then!

Thank you Mad-as and Marty.

As this is my first time delving inot the innards I am rather cautious. Can I get the air box off without having to drain the coolant and take the whole business out?

The distrubtion flap is definitely not a finger flicking exercise.

Thanks Richard and Hoppy,

I'll see how the new motors work out before I put it all back togerther again.

Thanks Paul and Richard.

Any views on how much resistance there should be in the distribution quaadrant? It's better than it was but not as smooth as the other two.

Having got mixed messages from the Nanocom and the RH blend motor having given up altogether I've ordered a set of Valeo motors from Island 4x4 and removed the whole dashbaord.

The left and right flaps move easily but the distribution flap is still a bit stiff right at one end of the travel. When the new motors are in I'd like to test them before putting the dash back. Mindful of warnings not to start anything without having instruments etc connected can I just reconnect the HEVAC and instrument panel in order to test things?

Thanks again.

The quadrant will move by hand but it is a bit stiff at the last couple of teeth. I'll try giving the motor a clean.