Thanks Richard, appreciate it but I already have a new set taking a bath of oil in a soupcan (same guy as the gaskets).
The heads are main concern, they seem to be refurbished a couple of years ago and then left alone in a damp shed,
The wirebrush comes to hand, no problem but I also have to refurbish all rusted threads of sparkplugs, bolts etc. Not too difficult but it needs attention.
Last week I have de-rusted and painted the exhaust risers, pretty expensive parts if you want them new. All painted black as the block will be, my example is Marty's work on his engine, I like the looks of it. But what a difference in weight compared to our alu engines...
Tony.

I don't know Simon, somebody will bring me the Mercruiser gasketset so that must be right, meanwhile the list becomes longer like diaphragm for the mechanical fuelpump, maybe an electronic ignitionpole instead of points, have to swap the crank too because it's balanced, the other one has a sort of counterweight between flywheel and block.
Not ready and done yet, we'll see where it leads to.

Gilbertd wrote:

currently in Ferryman country.....

Where were you then? It was fathersday here, not that I enjoyd it, Together with our son I did a timing chain and tensioner repair on a 200 Benz.
What a job. On a driveway.

Nail on the head Chris, saves me my wrists.

That's more like it Mark, I think I'll order one.
Want to get it up and running before summer is over ha ha.
Thanks for the link.

Not for the RR but the boat that needs another engine (Volvo Penta V8= Chevy 5.7).
The block I found is a similar Mercruiser and a couple of GM heads that need refurbishing and grinding the valves.
I already have the woodstick with rubber end, I want something more sophisticated for in the drill but don't want to pay €100 to Midlock for their tool, is there something more affordable on the market?
And yes, it can be used for RR too.

Wow those covers are new! What a beauty they are. Did you spray the inside aswell (don't tell me you just polished them)?
Didn't you have a fixed gasket for the sump instead of paste? When having a tin pan it makes no difference but with alu I thought you needed a rubber gasket.

Mine had gone too in that corner, under the sponge. The affected area was as large as a square inch, it looked like a biscuit so brittle, no way it could have been patched with some metal paste. Pressure inside can get pretty high so a new condenser seems inevitabel.
Important when buying non-LR is fitment of the fancradle mountings, I had to adjust mine a bit. And disconnecting the pipes is a bit of a hassle, if I remember correctly I had to take out the headlamp to reach with a wrench.

Orangebean wrote:

Minis (the old A Series engined ones) and WD40 used to be pretty inseparable due to the distributor being located at the front of the engine, right behind the grille.

Yeah... driving on the motorway behind a lorry in heavy rainfall. When finally had a chance to overtake and hit the throttle, the hickups came.
Don't tell me about it.

Allright then, for once and for all:

I see, it's the outer part missing, could your tensioner catch up with it?

What's wrong with it then?

The pressureswitch is the place to be, screw it out and with the right adapter you can screw a gauge in. Can't you rent a set somewhere?

I agree with a valvetrain issue, reg. the speed of it, although the last vid from underneath the sound is at loudest.
Indeed with covers off let it run idle and place your finger at each rocker to find out which one it can be, put it indrive if needed (handbrake on).
If it gives peace of mind put an oilpressure gauge in the senderunit and see what the pressure is, cold and hot.
If it's a loose pickup and sucks air that will be translated in less pressure.
And sometimes you have to wait until it gets worse, not our nature of course.

I knew I could count on you☺

Orangebean wrote:

I'm going to start a new topic called "Ferryman wants to move to page 2"
:-)

Brilliant! (16 more to go)

I hope there quickly appear 17 more topics in this section so my name moves to page two...☺

Clive, a bit off topic since it's not about idler pulleys, indeed the bottom pumphose is a pain to reach. I did the pump, hose and stat as an assembly on the bench to make sure the hose was straight on the pump.
The CTC clips attached in place, I could turn the hose for lining up in the right direction just by using the Midlock 7048 spanner and lock it in open position to turn the hose a bit.

As addition of the above, pay attention to the lube oil still present in the system. After a seized compressor of my former CLK I became very keen on that, if you don't know how many 'refills' a system has had it is likely that a lot of oil has gone if performed by the 'home mechanic'. In the US they advertise with cans of refrigerant from the supermarket, throw it in and you're done, at least for this summer (or less). There is more to it, the A/C system is very dedicated summer and winter, it should be maintained by a pro, or at least with the intentions of a pro.
Here is page 1175 from Rave that explains how much oil should be added when a certain component has been replaced:

I think your pump will live longer anyway without the stress of an unbalanced fan on it's shaft.
I was asking about the tempgauge (and you gave the answer already) because when the needle doesn't move with some 10º fluctuation a driver is not informed about a raising temperature issue, on time I mean. When the needle crawls up, not to say the red dot is showing, it is already too late with such a slow registration.
In fact far too late and damage is done.
Maybe accurate gauges could have saved people damage.
It's just a thougt, after your information about Nano live data.