That's the way to do it, I back-up into the jetwash and work behind the car. Nobody sees it.
Gilbertd wrote:
Biggest problem with OE is that you need a press to fit them but you don't with poly bushes.
Correct, but you need the press anyhow to get the worn buggers out. Once out, the new ones went in easy. If you have poly's already it is easier to continue with quality bushes.
After all the stories of harsh rides I replaced my panhardbushes last winter with OEM ones. After all the old ones lasted nearly 17 years...
I cleaned my block before relining at a manual carwash (on a not so crowded hour). Hot + shampoo, flush with hot water. I skipped the wax program.
Well this is just what you say, without flex harmonica the socket would fit.
But the straight part to be welded in must be exact to size, even with the flexpart in it I found it difficult to line up all flanges to the ports.
In my case I had to lift the frontpart a bit to reach the 12 hexbolt of cyl. 6, otherwise the socket (½" drive) would not fit onto the bolt.
So I needed the flex capability.
But I realize that I'm spoiling a gag now...
Resized it to 600x1067 px for you, maybe the forum doesn't like over 1800 px wide pics.
Island has a lot of stuff from B'part, My last orders all go to LR Direct and choose Bearmach when possible.
I also do the valleygasket with 4 bolts to hold it in place. Not on the corners but a bit to the middle and then do front and rear seals to hold it.
For peace of mind I looked it up in the papers that came with it:
STC 8939
http://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/service/document/71247
Smiler let there be no doubt that I highly value your beertokens but I have a better idea.
To be honest I tried to sell it before but there was no response so you may have it for shippingcost.
PM me your details and I will ship it to you.
Tony.
Gilbertd wrote:
... but they do allow the ball height to be altered or a NATO eye to be fitted instead of the ball if needed.
Now you're talking Classic (or Def) ☺
Oh and Richard, I don't think it is aftermarket, just Alko made (German) and fitted to RR's delivered in Ger.
Alko is a reputable make, known from trailer axles.
Is this the one?
It was tucked away in the boot when I bought my RR in Germany while the one fitted is like Richard says.
It is in it's original bag (not clean though).
During the build of our latest series ferries, bottomview.
These pipes keep the 400HP CATS cool. Don't know if it is recommended for speedboats...
That is all the blame to the coolingsystem itself, running (salt) outboard water through the engine regulated by a simple thermostat. Open-close, open-close, hot-cold etc.
It is not so long they finally have proper intercoolingsystems that run coolant. Much better for the engine and a more steady temperature.
I've worked in Spain in the yachting world, sometimes boats from new every three years you could renew the watercooled exhaust risers and elbows.
There was a remedy, after an afternoon ride pull it on the trailer, hang the drive in a barrel with fresh water and flush the system, what nobody does.
Want to know why I needed another block?
The guy who sold it to me said he took it running out of his boat... (it's in the bin now)
If this is frostdamage, I wonder where coreplugs are for.
I'm ashamed to say it, never buy a block that is already been lifted out, at least not from Dutch. This is my 3rd miss.
Same as mine, just mine is green as it has been watercoloured ☺
That looks cool in more than one way, dryer included!
You are spoiling that car of yours. Second thought, it's your own interest having a cool interior ha ha.
Just check the fitment of the fancradle to the rad, I had to adjust one and other.
Scheveningen is a good place to stay, I used to have relatives there, the only one still alive is my nephew, he is volunteer guide on the lighthouse which becomes handy when the Volvo Oceanrace visits the harbour.
New herring, my fav food. When it is on sale they serve a small genever with it called Korenwijn. Best is to take the rest of the day off...