Well done that man! Sloth do you have any led-control on the dash when it kicks on and off? I'm curious if there is any visible difference on the temp-gauge when it comes on or off, regarding in another thread the discussion about these gauges not being very accurate.
As long as you are moving forward it won't come on at all I presume?
Good work!
Miah please don't get me wrong, this is no criticism but just a remark. I respect everyones way of working as long as it's needed for that moment.
If I take out/put in an engine (not always the lightweight alu-type) there often is a lot of wiggling needed to get it in place and therefore I want a solid bunge.
On the other hand I've removed gearboxes just leaning on a scissorjack without knowing the actual weight.
The situ dictates the way you work, for that you are right.
Still is a nice engine though...
Well for that matter I disagree with Ray, those 1.5 cm deep threads are not intended to deal with the force.
With heads on you can use the lifting eyes, if heads not fitted you can use the old headbolts.
This is how I took out mine.
Now that is a real beauty, congratulations! You even bought a new hoist to lift her it seems.
One remark, is it wise to hoist it by the two small bolts that hold the valleyseals?
The first 1000 kms I've poured in cheapo 15W-40, after that this semi-synth:
Since it is a virtually new engine there is no need for 'classic' oils.
That can be useful when you have old hardened seals, but you have new ones.
The idea is when you pull fuse 23 prior to anything, the SRS system is powerless so it does not notice any disconnections when contact becomes on so there is no fault reported.
What when you pull fuse 23 prior to any action of disconnecting battery, unplugging airbags etc. Does it still light up when it is all reversed in order again?
Did you switch to petrol when going uphill, just for comparision?
Good to see you've found the cause, never seen a cracked pedestal before.
Out of curiosity I once retorqued a rockershaft when engine was running idle to find a cause for ticking rockers. What a difference that makes in noise, just a few degrees turn of the pedestal bolts!
Since then, when torquing a rockershaft I Always turn the crank so there is no load of nearby rockers/valvesprings. It is a bit more work but I know the shaft is torqued evenly.
And drop the pan to find the broken rockerseat and pushrodguide.
To add to prev. post, when tophose becomes warm, or level in expansiontank rises whichever comes first, I stop the engine for cooling down, but also close the cap of expansiontank to prevent sucking air back throug the radiator overflow pipe. Don't know if this is the trick but after 2-3 exercises most air has gone.
Orangebean wrote:
Not sure if it's because I drained both sides of the block, despite the dire warnings in RAVE,
When I got my block back from the linerjob it sure was empty, both plugs have been out and refilled as per Rave (partially).
I have seen this warning too but don't get the point.
Refilling a Rover V8 is patience, patience, patience. Initial run until tophose becomes warm (stat still closed) and stop engine for full cool down.
Repeat.
Sloth, as for your fanrebuild, is the elbow suitable to carry a thermostat? A sort of clip-on thermostat we have on the HEVAC heaterpipe?
You also can weld a nut on it so you can properly screw it in but space is limited over there.
On the other hand you'll be fooled when engine is still cold and uses the bypass back to engine, the thermostat will think your engine is at oprating temp.
So it should be mounted between "T" piece and rad. Difficult.
Just an idea, Tony.
This is the typical Thor lay-out, with the T piece for the bypasshose to thermostat top port.
Yours might be different I think as you have an 'upgraded Gems'?
Tony
The dowels belong in the block so no worry...
Pry with a small screwdriver underneath on either side of the box, that usually gets them running.
One above startermotor and one at the crank pos.sensor
I love it when it comes to DIY engineering, great solution!
Do you know the temp settings of the thermostat/sensor, are they close to maintain correct operating temp and where do you place it?
There are 3-stage electronic sensors, or even adjustable ones that feed your fan by relays (I think from Kenlowe).
Oh, and what when the owner finds his cabinet in that state tomorrow?
Just out of interest, gives Nano the same readings compared to RSW when using on the same car in the same session? (it should be)
If I have an engine out I do two things:
flexplate
endseal
Both genuine LR, it's not the cost.