I can attest that it's a little pippin. Lovely motor.

If Gucci ever turns his back, he's gonna be missing some parts, that's for sure :-)

A quick one to check, as I had terrible changes on mine when I first got it, is throttle cable adjustment. If it's not dead set as per RAVE, it seems to cause all sorts of changing issues. Probably doesn't help you, but it did me and it's free!

I feel really guilty reading all this stuff.

Since registration, it's probably had about three runs, a dollop of fuel and a single wash.

We're on double lockdown now as we've a COVID case in the house opposite. There's police at either end of the street and they've issued passes to those allowed out along with instructions as to when they can go. This doesn't include me, (over 60) so I can't get out to buy the oil I want to do a change.

Still, in between working from home, I'll give it another wash and then I can strip down the door lock to see why that's stuck.

We're going through bog rolls like no tomorrow at the moment.

Mind, we had a bout of distemper and the dogs that survived can't go out for another two weeks, so you can imagine...

Thank God for all tiled floors and an understanding, dog-loving cleaner!

Smiler wrote:

I love mine and mines a diesel!

Still putting that out on public forums? :-)

Welcome leolito!

Bilsteins on mine. Happy with them.

Took her for annual registration.

Only took 6.5 hours. Five hours of that was in the queue for emissions test (the only test they do) + an hour for the 5km drive home.

Needed beer.

Two things noticed immediately on getting rid of coils and going back to air, on the same run.
1) Body roll was dramatically reduced
2) The harshness of Manila roads disappeared. Teeth rattle to smooth!

Average speed - 8kph
Average fuel - 8mpg

Morat wrote:

By the way: Are good old NGK BPR6ES still the recommended plug?

IIRC, that's what I've got. Oh, plus new leads.

This ETC malarkey is a bit of a mystery.

Mine's an '95 4.6 HSE, but when I plug Nanocom in, it tells me I've got 4 wheel ETC.

Haven't got a photo of the modulator plate and am now upstairs after work with a sundowner, so not going to look right now.

I know my '96 UK version 4.0L had rear wheel ETC, but my understanding is a '95 4.6 (European market) shouldn't have 4 wheel ATC. Correct?

Whilst I've had this off road here, it's never felt the need to use ETC, just ploughed through regardless. My old one only kicked in very rarely as well.

A little late but, yes.

Being just a few miles away from easy support, the Nano has been, and will continue to be, the best thing I've bought.

Out of the six or so years I've owned it, it did a three year stint as daily. Never a problem.

Now she's back to a weekend toy/

I used to be. But that's not particularly helpful!

Hope someone steps up.

Gilbertd wrote:

There's a green one and a grey one. The green one drives the gauge on the dash, the grey one supplies temperature information to the ECU. If you use the nano to show the coolant temperature, it will be taking the reading from the ECU, so the one that matters.

If it's the grey one at fault, it'll be under reading. Watch it warm up from cold on the Nano. I think mine was stopping around the 75 mark, if I remember, then throwing the fault up.

New one runs up to around 85/7, depending on ambient.

If it’s a sensor, you’ll get fault code P0116 which is "Coolant temperature sensor - falling temperature fault".

I was supplied locally with a BMW part, which was pennies; No. VNE 39090 and it’s been fine since.

Yokohama Geolander A/T. 265/70 in 16" flavour.

Quiet, good in wet, excellent in mudslides, fine in the jungle. Don't fit in the spare wheel well!

Originally wanted BFG, but not obtainable, however, been very happy with the Yokos.

Good to know, thanks.

I did the bumper removal, but then the bolts were good as gold and wound out easy.

With that out of the way, replacing the drier is a doddle.

Oh, and while you're there, give the pressure switch connectors a good clean. I missed that one, and a week later had to grovel under the car to spray contact cleaner into them.

super4 wrote:

I can see now that A is the high pressure side with nibbles and is not easily available from suppliers. Perhaps it will have to be a scrap part. Also, looks like a major job to remove that whole metal gadget under the reservoir !

On the laptop, so now I can see the pics!

As said, that's the HP side that goes into the modulator (the "metal gadget") which is easy enough to remove, just a pig to replace. However, the pipe should be accessible without going to those lengths. It's a banjo fitting on the side of the modulator, right hand side as you look at it from the front.

It's easy to unbolt the ABS pump and replace the pipe at that end although, IIRC, it can be done in-situ.

Whatever you do, please remember to depressurise the system before undoing anything!

"Depressurise the brake system by turning the ignition to the off position and slowly press the brake pedal through its full travel 30 times. Leave for about 10 seconds and then depress a further 4 times. This will depressurise the system."