ERR7309 is correct for Thor, RTC5679 is for GEMS and EAC2414L is correct for both. I've found that the O rings are usually fine unless they get torn although I usually lift off the inlet manifold with fuel rail and injectors still attached so don't touch the O rings (unless I try lifting the manifold by the fuel rail and they pull out). Red rubber grease on them is a good idea when putting them in.

I suspect there's very little difference, the coolers are interchangeable and the fittings are almost in the same place. Probably just a slight difference in the bends so they fit neatly in the notches in the radiator surround.

Welcome, glad you got here. That isn't basic, I've got no leather, no cruise, no sunroof and no electric seats, but I have got the headlamp wash wipe and front fogs. Mine came with the options that plod thought useful when they ordered it but none of the superfluous stuff. But what is there all works. Then again, my other one has everything.....

Yours sounds like a lot these days. Well looked after for a while but when they become cheaper get bought by people that don't understand them and don't look after them. Then it can go one of two ways. It will either be bought by someone who returns it to how it should be or it gets further neglected until something serious happens and it gets scrapped.

This page http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/91427/91612/7253 gives the part numbers for the hoses for a 4.0 litre. 4.6 is different as it has a larger cooler.

I think mine have reduced themselves to the bracket and a small bit of remaining heatshield. I've thought about replacing them with a bit of ally sheet but it's never got too hot even when driven at 70 mph for hours on end.

If it passed emissions on the MoT I don't believe the 7 mpg, did you zero it before setting off (press and hold the Info button) as sitting around idling will make it read really low.

+1 on centralising the steering box. There's a lug on the side of a plastic disc on the input shaft into the steering box with a matching lug cast into the body. They should be lined up when the steering is straight ahead or it will pull to one side all the time. If that is out you adjust on the drag link, if that is correct you adjust at the steering wheel.

The cheap cases are the ones that allow the circuit board to move around. It doesn't come with the little strip of metal that goes in the battery holder which is the bit that causes most problems with bad contacts.

You can get the cheapo Chinese ones on eBay but they aren't that good so the circuit board can move around inside making them intermittent. Your best bet would be to send it to Jon and get it fully refurbished, see https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402718362924

It'll probably only need a light tap. There is one tooth on the reluctor ring that is taller than all the others so that one pushes the sensor out to give the correct air gap. At one of the Summer Camps we had a Marty's workshop, one of the guys had the ABS light on when we drove to the hotel. Nanocom said it was one of the front sensors so put the steering on full lock, got underneath and tapped it with the end of a wheelbrace, ABS then working perfectly.

Simplest fix of them all, hit the ABS sensor with a mallet to knock it in further.

Batteries are on the way out now anyway, Hydrogen fuel cell is the way to go. https://www.toyota.co.uk/new-cars/new-mirai/meet-mirai#1. It was Toyota that started it all with the Prius so why not?

Plus the fact that an ICE can be run on Hydrogen too so it's a dual purpose fuel.

?????

Same with UK unless the trailer has LED bulbs without resistors fitted as they don't draw enough current for it to know you have a trailer plugged in.

All that will do is increase the length of time it takes to change over. Parallel is only really needed if the heater system closes off the flow when you don't want heat. I was checking something else on mine with the Nanocom earlier today and for a coolant temperature of 83 C the heater matrix temperature was at 76 C, so that's 7 degrees being lost through the vaporiser.

My local Timsons didn't have the blank in stock but ordered a couple in and cut me a spare key. If I was to ever lose my fob then having a spare key at home wouldn't be a lot of good to me if I was miles from home so it's carefully waterproofed and secreted under the car. Even my MoT tester didn't spot it when it was up on the ramp but I know where it is.....

I think that's the new standard Euro 13 pin (where only 12 are used, hence 12N), original UK socket was a 7 pin which I assume is the same as in Europe (as I once bought a trailer in France and the plug fitted my car and all the lights worked). The US use a really weird 4 pin thing that isn't compatible with anything else due to them using the same bulb for stop lights and indicators.

One thing to bear in mind if you have a problem with the fob. If the car was locked with the fob and unlocked with the key, from then on every time you unlock the car you will need to enter the EKA to turn the immobiliser off (assuming you have an EKA programmed) until it is next unlocked with the fob. However, if the EKA is entered with a Nanocom then you can lock and unlock with the key and the immobiliser will be turned off. Quite how it works on a car with no EKA programmed I've no idea but you can check it easily enough. Lock it with the fob then unlock with the key. If it is still immobilised you have a problem until you next unlock with the fob. The key blade is a BMW blank and you should be able to get a spare cut easily enough.

There's always the guy in Wales that can supply a non-original keyfob.

They are TE Connectivity connectors, RS part number 531-4540 (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/5314540/) or 531-4607 for the 4 way. I can't remember which one fits into the plug that is there (one is for the plug, the other for the socket and the pics on the RS site should tell you). So for the other one (8 way but with only 7 ways used) you would need 362-9064 or 362-9187. You'll also need the connectors to go into the housings but they only come in packs of 50, part numbers 712-1911 or 712-1921.

The one on the RH side gives you the standard 7 wires for a 7 way trailer socket, whereas the 4 way one on the LH side gives the additional ones used if you have dual sockets or the modern 12 way socket. That one has a permanent live, ignition switched live, reversing light feed and ground.

Yes it should be. I've had an OMVL R90E, BRC AT90 and eGas reducers all plumbed in series and no restriction to the flow on any. Maybe something is stuck inside it?

Not that I know of, unless there's any adjustment at the lever end. There definitely isn't at the latch end.

That TSB updates the system to that used on the Thor where instead of the HEVAC driving the clutch directly, it powers a relay which switches battery voltage to the clutch. It needs the big resistor as the early HEVAC will detect if insufficient current is being drawn (the amount needed by the relay compared with the amount needed by the clutch) so will assume the pressure switch is open due to a lack of refrigerant and not try to operate the clutch again.