If the tracking (toe in/out) needs adjustment, they'll chirp or if the VC is starting to seize they will too, otherwise they shouldn't.

Long levers on the two outputs.

From the Ashcroft Transmissions website:
Viscous unit - rolling resistance Bench check NOTE: Testing should be carried out in an ambient of 20 deg C.

1) Secure the output shaft ...

2) Apply a clockwise torque of 27 Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut. If no resistance to turn is felt, unit requires replacing.

3) If resistance to turn is felt, apply a clockwise torque of 20Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut for 1 minute, this should result in a rotation of approximately 25 deg - 30 deg. If no rotation or a greater force is required, unit requires replacing.

27 Nm = 20 lbf-ft 20 Nm = 15 lbf-ft

A new one comes with a piece of tape on it holding it centred. If you take one out you are supposed to do it with the wheel centred then put a bit of tape on it so it can't be rotated while the wheel is off. Problem with ones from a breaker is that they often don't bother so you've no idea if it is centred or not.

Are you centralising them correctly? I've never known one fail. It's a thin ribbon cable so if it isn't centralised it will pull out at one end or the other on full lock.

Yes, 7822 is the NGK part number.

Or find someone near you with a Nanocom. Lincs goes a long way North (and they keep moving the boundary), where are you near?

Snap-on, Solus, etc are OBD code readers so will only connect to the engine ECU, not the ABS or SRS ECUs. For that you need something intended for use on the P38 such as a Nanocom, Hawkeye, etc.

'95 will be GEMS so NGK BPR6ES plugs. Yes, they are steel into aluminium so can be tight if they've been in there for a long time. I always smear the threads with Graphite Grease when I put new ones in although others use Copper Grease. Don't suppose it makes much difference but anything to prevent them seizing in has to be worthwhile.

Probably because the whole world knows they are diabolical (I had a Maestro as a company car many years ago) so when they need repairs costing more than £20 they got scrapped. One day they will be almost extinct so the odd person thinks they might be worth something solely because of their rarity (and as an example of how bad cars were in the old days).

I banned Games_Bebra a couple of days ago, so maybe at the same time you were trying to do it. Or I got to him a few seconds before you did and it wouldn't let you ban him as he was already banned. I've noticed that odd things happen on LPGforum when we are both logged in and obviously dealing with spam at the same time. We're just too good, that's the problem.......

I always start at extended and work down. One jack under the towbar and another on the front crossmember just in front of the radiator. Jack it up, fit the extended blocks, then use the Nano to let the air out and lower the jacks so it is sitting on the blocks. Note the Live Heights and store them in the extended height boxes. Jack it a bit so you can get the blocks out and fit the standard height set, lower the jacks and do the same. Same for the motorway height and access. With two people, one at each end, and a couple of trolley jacks, it shouldn't take longer than about half and hour. I found that the access blocks are only marginally taller than the bumpstops which makes getting them out a pain so drilled and tapped an M6 hole in the end so I can screw a bolt into them and use that to pull them out.

Mine felt fine too and as I didn't have a puller that went deep enough to get on them, I kept the originals. Replaced all the others though and the seals. Although my casings weren't that dirty, they didn't get the same treatment as yours, they went back mildly cleaner than when they came out.

I think they make the perfect point, a differentiation between classic cars and old cars. Take it down to 30 years and you are looking at anything pre-1991 and while you may not see them everyday there's still plenty of doggy old motors running around. There's a guy in my village running a J plate Renault and there's no way that would be considered a classic.

That's because you don't have the extra button marked 'Moderate' showing like we do.......

Been out for a few hours, came back and saw we'd been hit by a spammer who had somehow got through the protection. Started deleting the spam posts only to see the number of them was going up not down. Looked at the spammers profile to see that he had posted 71 posts which rose to 76 while I was looking at it. By the time I'd clicked the Ban Member button, he was up to 78! At 3 mouse clicks to delete spam, it's normally fairly simple but when there's 78 to get rid of......

According to here http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/88880/89292/7043/89377 it looks to be AMR2835. Don't recall ever seeing a command in the Nanocom list for electric seats so I suspect as long as you have the seat outstations to go with the seats, they should be plug and play.

Blimey, that chain looks to have more slack in it than mine did! Don't forget to put the magnet back into its little slot. I sat there looking at it for a couple of minutes thinking, where the hell did that drop out of?????

A US quart is 0.95 litres and the whole system holds 6.6 litres (7 US quarts) from dry or 5.8 litres (6 quarts) after a drain and refill. Difference between low and high on the dipstick is 1 litre so you can work out that if it isn't reaching the oil level, you a couple of litres short. The fact that it was running without sounding like a bag of nails with the oil light on permanently, means you probably already had 2 or 3 litres in there. The first 2 you put in would have been enough to get it up to the minimum mark anyway without the additional 4!!

Now you need to work out who stole your oil......

I paid £550 for the 4.6 complete with all ancillaries, including engine bay wiring loom so it was a simple drop in and connect up replacement job, so I would expect a diesel to come in a similar state.

I bought an excellent 4.6 V8 from them a couple of years ago and have bought a few other bits and pieces. If Dave at East Coast says its good, it really is. For an engine he'll strap it to a pallet and get it couriered to you.