and a merry Christmas too. Due to lockdown and going into tier 4, our Christmas at my daughter's house was postponed until today. So I've just got home after celebrating a belated Christmas. We'll do Easter in about a months time......
What do you mean, I turned the aircon on? It is on by default, poking the button marked AC OFF so it lights up does what it says, it turns it off. Clutch won't engage all the time, it will cut in and out as needed controlled by the pressure in the system. If the HEVAC has the book symbol showing it won't try to operate whatever caused the book to come on in the first place. So if you have a faulty blend motor, it won't try to operate the blend motors, if you have a faulty blower, it won't try to operate that blower but if it detects a fault with the clutch, it won't try to operate that. However, on a later car like yours, the HEVAC operates a relay which operates the clutch so it doesn't detect a fault if the clutch isn't engaging, only if the relay isn't operating.
Are the ARP ones for the diesel studs rather than bolts like the V8 ones? If they are, although expensive, they make the job so much easier. They have the coarse thread on one end where they screw into the block and a much finer thread at the other end for a washer and nut. It's so easy to simply do them up in stages up to the max of 60-65 ft/lbs (80-85 Nm). I go 40 - 50 - 65 on the torque wrench, none of this heaving on a long breaker bar trying to get 90 degrees which you never can as there's always something in the way.
So that's what the Highlight Topic button does that us mods have access to, done.
Chap in Wales does lots of things, none of which I'd recommend.......
He almost single handedly destroyed RR.net with his comments and arbitrary bans of anyone that had the audacity to disagree or, even worse, correct him. He is the reason this site was started in the first place. Since the new owners took over RR.net he has had his wings clipped and no longer posts advice, just chips in to odd general threads. Problem is, for the owners, that it is too late, most knowledgeable owners have voted with their feet and left so all that is there now is newer members asking the same old questions over and over again.
Pierre3 wrote:
While I was working on the sunroof, trying to get the glass to operate properly I was standing on the side-step, and, having been in and out standing on it, it suddenly decided that it had had enough and, again, "boing", I was standing on the ground and the step was hanging down like a big flap door. More bol***s !!!!. The box section part of the step has rusted through.
Yes, they do that although it's usually a crunch rather than a boing.
I read a few posts by some bloke called ToadhallRR or something like that, who reckons you can take the sunshade out and put it back, with the clips, and all without taking out the cassette. I don't believe this is possible as the two rear clips are right under a strengthening bar which is at the back of the sunroof opening. I did notice that he later admitted that he was wrong and the cassette has to come out.
He's almost always wrong but just for once, he was right (although I got a weeks ban from .net for telling him he was right in the first place and it can be done, nobody has the right to contradict the almighty). Yes, the two clips at the back are under the stiffening bar but that is only held on with a couple of self tappers on each side, so you just take the bar out first. I've taken the shade out at least 3 times without taking the whole cassette out. In fact, when we had the mass headlining session at Marty's workshop a couple of years ago, we took 6 or 7 out to be retrimmed and didn't take the cassette out on any of them.
Incidentally, I found that to remove and replace the sunshade you put one hand under the panel and one hand on one side, where the track is, and gently push up until the panel bends and pops out of the track at the front. The back comes out without a problem, but when you look at the panel you will see a kind of lug on the front edge of the panel which keeps the panel firmly located in the track. This is why you need to bend the sunshade panel quite a bit, for it to pop out. Easy when you do it, but a bit disconcerting when you haven't !!
If you thought it was metal and didn't realise it is simply an ABS moulding, I can understand why you were worried. As you say, just bow it enough for it to drop out of the tracks.
Depends on how you drive it. On the 4.6 Vogue I'm half owner of, I averaged 23 mpg on a cross country run, obviously it would drop running around town or if you poked the Sport button and floored it everywhere.
I bought my first Range Rover, a long wheelbase Classic with the 4.2 V8, running on LPG. The guy I bought it from (a mate of a mate), replaced it with a P38 DSE but found the DSE more expensive to run. The V8 would do around 15mpg on LPG so a cost equivalent of 30mpg or thereabouts while he found the DSE so gutless in comparison he thrashed it mercilessly to try to get something like equivalent performance that it never did better than 24mpg. With the difference in cost between diesel and petrol, there isn't going to be a lot in it compared to running on petrol, LPG just makes running a V8 a similar cost to a normal saloon car.
All the ones I've bought have already had LPG, none of them worked at the time but simple enough to put right. I've got a tank and complete multipoint system I took off a 4.0 litre so even that isn't insurmountable. You'd probably find a V8 on LPG to be cheaper, or at least the same, to run than a diesel.
Going from the top down, you've got Vogue, HSE, SE, S and base (although you could only get the base spec with a diesel engine). Having looked at the specs, painted bumpers suggests it's not an SE but an HSE or Vogue, so will have all the toys.
Not a huge mileage then. If EAS is working fine and everything else is OK, it'll only be things like tyres that will cost bigger money. As you know, everything else is repairable but gearbox, transfer case, diffs, etc should all be fine so no worries there. No FIP, stretching chains and hot start bodgery to worry about and after driving a diesel you will astounded at how fast it is.
Conversely, I wouldn't touch a diesel if it was for free. At least if a head gasket blows on a V8 you just put another one on it, they don't crack heads like the diesel. Grille needs a coat of bumper black, headlamp wash wipe and front fogs says it's at least an SE. As said, if the price is right, go for it.
Nothing to worry about there, as you say, SRS and horn likely to be rotary coupler, exhaust is no biggie and if it didn't leak oil I'd say there wasn't any in it. Excessive is subjective too, what is minor to one tester is excessive to another. Blast the underside with a pressure washer before taking it for test, you'll probably be able to see where it is leaking from then too. Worst case it will be a oil cooler hose.
I paid £600 for the Ascot with a list of failure points on the MoT that ran to a second page. Two days after picking it up (and driving it 90 miles home), it passed the MoT. Most of the things a P38 fail on are the sort of things a specialist will charge a lot of money to sort out (and a non-specialist will just tell you to scrap the car) but if you are already familiar with them and know how to do the work yourself, there's nothing difficult, as you probably already know. If the price is right, go for it.
Traction control is inhibited at speeds over 30mph and what you are describing sounds like ABS or TC doing what it should. As you also have/had a problem with the 3 Amigos and ABS failure coming up on the dash, I'd say it's connected with that problem.
I get sent marketing emails from Parkers which I usually just delete but I got one the other day with a bit about the new Peugeot 2008 now being available as an EV. If you buy one on their put down a deposit and pay through the nose for the next 5 years scheme, the electric version is £45 a month more expensive than the (faster) petrol engined version. However, on their finance deal you are limited to 6,000 miles a year so no more than 500 miles a month. Which means that if you charge the electric version overnight at roughly 18p per kW the running costs are almost exactly the same. If you were to charge the electric one at motorway services so you are paying more per charge, the electric one is more expensive to run, as well as to buy and slower. So where is the advantage?
Quarter turn one seems to be no longer available everywhere, middle one is available (see https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/81332/0/fir_tree_trim_clip_beige_p38_range_rover), bottom one is a slightly different design (my car has a mix of the ones you have and the ones shown here) but appears available in limited stocks (see https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/99454/0/clip_trim_retention_ash_beige_nrr_p38 but showing only 1 in stock).
Britcar also have 1 grab handle in stock (https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/125985/5497/grab_handle___mist_grey___headlining___p38_range_rover_ )but not the blanking plates that cover the screws although JLR have them (https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/btr8261lum-plug-blanking.html).
Not sure how this software does it. Some forum software will allow the original author to edit and delete their own posts, others won't. If you don't have a bin, then obviously this one doesn't.
Sounds like the HEVAC has been swapped at some point but it shouldn't matter. The main difference is that a later one doesn't flag an error if it only sees a low current being drawn when trying to pull the compressor clutch in as it is expecting to just be operating a relay and not the clutch itself (but it is only a firmware change to stop it flagging an error, it is still capable of operating the clutch directly). It's the other way round that won't work, an early HEVAC needs to drive the clutch directly and not with the relay. Short to front windscreen is one that seems to appear at odd times but will only flag an error if you switch the heated screen on, under normal circumstances it won't bring up the book.
I just did it for you. Not sure if you an do it, do you have a picture of a dustbin underneath the post? I see Quote, Full Reply (not sure what that one does?), Edit, Delete, Report and Hide but as a mod I've probably got more there than you.