Nothing to worry about there, as you say, SRS and horn likely to be rotary coupler, exhaust is no biggie and if it didn't leak oil I'd say there wasn't any in it. Excessive is subjective too, what is minor to one tester is excessive to another. Blast the underside with a pressure washer before taking it for test, you'll probably be able to see where it is leaking from then too. Worst case it will be a oil cooler hose.

I paid £600 for the Ascot with a list of failure points on the MoT that ran to a second page. Two days after picking it up (and driving it 90 miles home), it passed the MoT. Most of the things a P38 fail on are the sort of things a specialist will charge a lot of money to sort out (and a non-specialist will just tell you to scrap the car) but if you are already familiar with them and know how to do the work yourself, there's nothing difficult, as you probably already know. If the price is right, go for it.

Traction control is inhibited at speeds over 30mph and what you are describing sounds like ABS or TC doing what it should. As you also have/had a problem with the 3 Amigos and ABS failure coming up on the dash, I'd say it's connected with that problem.

I get sent marketing emails from Parkers which I usually just delete but I got one the other day with a bit about the new Peugeot 2008 now being available as an EV. If you buy one on their put down a deposit and pay through the nose for the next 5 years scheme, the electric version is £45 a month more expensive than the (faster) petrol engined version. However, on their finance deal you are limited to 6,000 miles a year so no more than 500 miles a month. Which means that if you charge the electric version overnight at roughly 18p per kW the running costs are almost exactly the same. If you were to charge the electric one at motorway services so you are paying more per charge, the electric one is more expensive to run, as well as to buy and slower. So where is the advantage?

Quarter turn one seems to be no longer available everywhere, middle one is available (see https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/81332/0/fir_tree_trim_clip_beige_p38_range_rover), bottom one is a slightly different design (my car has a mix of the ones you have and the ones shown here) but appears available in limited stocks (see https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/99454/0/clip_trim_retention_ash_beige_nrr_p38 but showing only 1 in stock).

Britcar also have 1 grab handle in stock (https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/125985/5497/grab_handle___mist_grey___headlining___p38_range_rover_ )but not the blanking plates that cover the screws although JLR have them (https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/btr8261lum-plug-blanking.html).

Not sure how this software does it. Some forum software will allow the original author to edit and delete their own posts, others won't. If you don't have a bin, then obviously this one doesn't.

Sounds like the HEVAC has been swapped at some point but it shouldn't matter. The main difference is that a later one doesn't flag an error if it only sees a low current being drawn when trying to pull the compressor clutch in as it is expecting to just be operating a relay and not the clutch itself (but it is only a firmware change to stop it flagging an error, it is still capable of operating the clutch directly). It's the other way round that won't work, an early HEVAC needs to drive the clutch directly and not with the relay. Short to front windscreen is one that seems to appear at odd times but will only flag an error if you switch the heated screen on, under normal circumstances it won't bring up the book.

I just did it for you. Not sure if you an do it, do you have a picture of a dustbin underneath the post? I see Quote, Full Reply (not sure what that one does?), Edit, Delete, Report and Hide but as a mod I've probably got more there than you.

Looking at the parts list pictures, the mounting angles are different which might explain why yours are bolted on differently. I think I have seen mention of a mounting plate, which the parts list doesn't show, so that may be to allow you to fit a later sensor to an earlier car (or the other way round).

I just use a tyre pressure gauge but it's going to depend on what fitting it has for the Schrader valve.

Normally you press the button and the washers run for a preset time and the wipers give 4 wipes but if it thinks the washer fluid level is low it only washes while you hold the button. Not sure if the wipers only wipe once or not but with low fluid it also inhibits the headlight washers. The only setting in the BeCM is labelled Intermittent Wipe which is disabled as standard (or it is on a UK spec car anyway). If you enable that, if you have the wipers on continuous and stop at a set of lights, they drop down to intermittent until you start moving again.

Are they both the same? Can't remember which way round but one type has a flying lead with a dangling plug (early I think) while the other has a plug on the sensor itself. You may have one of one type and one of the other.

It's here https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/photos-of-method-for-freeing-blend-flaps-with-s-t-screw.14322/page-2. What you are doing is removing a clip that holds the two sides together and putting a self tapper in to keep them apart slightly. Might be worth putting some RTV over the holes and gap once you've done it.

Unless it has ABS in which case it has a modulator looking very similar to the one on a P38. I helped with the restoration of a soft dash LSE a couple of years ago, and that had ABS and metric unions.

A roll of Kunifer and a pipe flaring kit. P38 fittings are all metric but I have a feeling the unions on a Classic could be either, you'll need to check and buy a box of fittings too. For flexi hoses you best bet is to go for Goodridge, see https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/goodridge-hose-kit-for-range-rover-abs-1992-sra0104-6p or if you want Stainless, https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/goodridge-hose-kit-for-range-rover-abs-1992-stainless-fittings-sra0104-6c assuming you've got ABS (which I think was standard on the soft dash).

I changed the whole cassette on the Ascot but just unplugged the old one, fitted the new one and did the setting procedure. However, the motor hadn't been removed. How about winding it fully open, removing the motor, winding that fully forward then fully back until it stops, then refitting it? That way at least the fully open position should be right.

I intend putting the 2001 Vogue that I bought a half share of with a mate on up for sale on Car & Classic which seems to be the place for anything decent. There's a couple of ones on at the moment to give you a clue https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1316847 which is nothing special and https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1309255. Or put it in one of their auctions and give the full history and loads of pictures like this https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/auctions/1976-mercedes-benz-2304-ZgOxpn with a sensible reserve.

Glad I'm not the only one. The dear departed Mark (Orangebean) was the only other person that would be logged in on here no matter what time of day or night it was watching it live from one of the flyaways.

I've always had an interest in any form of motorsport but through work got involved at Silverstone for the GP every year from 1988 onwards. That also included 95 when there was a GP at Donnington too and was in at the beginning for the CART race they introduced at Rockingham (for it to sink without trace after one event). 2011 to 2013 I did sub-contract work for Formula One Management doing spectrum management at India, Canada, South Korea, and Malaysia so have seen it grow from the inside. I've met most of the drivers (MS was the most arrogant arse you could ever meet) too and my only complaint these days is they don't sound right. A V6 revving to 15,000 rpm with turbos acting as silencers just isn't the same as a V8 revving to 18,000 rpm through open pipes.

Oh I don't know, 600 million viewers worldwide means there's still quite a few. That's a lot more than a few blokes kicking a ball around.....

Mine was done by plod when it was built and the cables run from a split charge relay bolted to the RH top shock mount, down the bulkhead and along the inside of the RH chassis rail. The aux battery was on the RHS of the boot where the sat nav unit would be if it had one and the cables came up through the floor just behind the wheelarch in big grommets.