Could be although I would expect a wiring problem to be permanent not intermittent, but some Prins systems use a separate injector emulator so it could be a problem with that (if your system has one). In which case you'd get injector disconnected codes stored once you get OBD working again.
I suspect the sticky strip was put there by someone to stop the noise, there was nothing on mine although the leading edge does seem to be more flexible. The trim isn't slid into place though. The trim is put into place and the clips slid to one side to lock them on the pins or, if you do it how I did, the clips are slid onto the pins and the trim then pushed downwards so it clicks onto the clips. The clips will then pull it in to contact the screen.
About the only things that aren't common to the two fuel systems are the injectors and fuel pressure. I can't see it being an injector problem or it would be there all the time. Nanocom will show if you have any fault codes (likely P030x code to show which cylinder is misfiring or simply a P0300 multiple misfires code) but will also allow you to look at the live data and see if one bank or the other is running lean or rich.
In fact thinking about it, there were some pretty odd decisions made by LR in the past. The Classic got a completely new wiring loom and interior when the soft dash came out for the '94 model year, yet the P38 was announced later the same year so why bother upgrading the Classic? If they'd upgraded and used parts that were destined for the P38 that might make a bit of sense but they were completely different again.
leolito wrote:
Except some muppet at Solihull thought it was GREAT idea to swap the transfer so the axles are the "other" way around ...
I know the Classic and D1 had the propshafts running down the RH side of the car rather than the left as on a P38 but I'd always assumed they'd swapped it over on the D2 and used the same bits. The hubs and driveshafts are the same design (but different part numbers it turns out) rather than the exposed swivel joint and the wheels changed over to the same PCD as the P38 at the same time. Brake callipers are the same too but the D2 gets vented discs on the front that we don't. Considering the V8 uses the same engine and gearbox as the P38 I'd always assumed the D2 was the budget P38 the same as the D1 was a Classic underneath.
Yeah, that's a bit obvious though. I'd want it to look perfectly standard, I've always preferred the sleeper look.
What trailer are you using? Brian James tow best, Indespension bounce all over the place when empty but are OK when loaded and Ifor Williams are somewhere between the two. It was an Ifor Williams CT115 I used to collect your father's (your) Austin Seven but that is only single axle and rated for a load of no more than 1000 kgs.
StrangeRover wrote:
A chap in new zealand fitted a Rotary engine in to a Model S, the EV people weren't happy!
I've considered fitting the 190bhp Toyota 2ZZ-GE motor from the Celica (which is the same motor used in a few of the Lotus's but breathed on) in a Prius just for the hell of it. Should go like stink once the weight of the batteries is removed. Just a shame the Prius is so damned ugly.
Yes they are, Disco 2 and P38 share the same axles and brakes.
If you buy a BMW i8, you can set the DSP sound system to make the proper noises. You can even select if you want it to sound like an M3, an M5 or various others. Only problem is, you are the only person that can hear it.....
It's the Volvo FH and FM that are available in CNG or LNG forms. The Ashford services on the M20 have recently installed LPG pumps to fill them. Unfortunately the Ashford services are HGV only otherwise it would be an alternative for me instead of the filling station in Dover before I get on the ferry..
Yes, 150kg maximum on the hitch, around 100 will be better, 3,500kgs maximum towed weight. Depending on what you are using, a trailer rated for 2,800 kgs or more MAM will weigh around 800-900 kgs empty, so you'll be looking at about 2,400 kgs overall. Should be no problem at all for the Duchess.
Morat wrote:
Benefit in kind for company car drivers.
BIK works on a sliding scale. EVs attract 0%. 3% for new PHEV, up through the various decreasingly "green" options to 21% for anything that produces 100g of CO2/mile or more.
So, if the company "gives" you an M3 you'll pay 21% of the purchase price in tax. If they give you a Tesla you'll have nothing more to pay.
So that encourages company car drivers, but what incentive is there for private owners?
I can't see how they will faze out diesel in few years what about the HGV side of things how will they come over that obstacle
At least two HGV manufacturers are now producing LPG powered trucks and there's also a few running on CNG and Hydrogen......
There never was an option to have a mix of 7 and 13 pin connectors. You had a dual socket system, with two 7 pin sockets (see https://www.pfjones.co.uk/advice-centre/tow-bar-advice/tow-bar-electrics.html) which was replaced with the 13 pin single socket that used a single socket to give the same connections as the two 7 pin ones. The connections for the single 7 pin socket are behind the RH rear light while the additional connections needed for the second 7 pin socket (permanent live, ignition switched live, reversing lights and ground) are on a plug behind the LH rear light.
That's what freezers are for..... There's still one in our freezer as my step daughter has been stuck in Holland since September and we're saving that for her Christmas when she finally makes it home.
From the bottom up, screen may well be the screen itself so cant really be repaired without a new screen although you could have checked that power was getting to it when you had the plenum off to do your water leak. At least that way you would know if it was the screen elements or something before it gets that far. Heated seats are a pita to repair but you can check under the seat to see which element is broken and if there is power there. Cruise is an easy one and can be done with the instrument cluster out. All it will need is a length of 4mm ID vacuum tube to replace the one from the brake pedal valve switch to the Tee by the actuator (and the two short lengths from the Tee). HEVAC probably needs a Marty zebra strip (from your comment on hieroglyphics in your last post). Even my mate Danny was able to do that job on the Vogue we have just returned to its former glory so it can't be that difficult as he's as ham-fisted as they come.
Radio is likely to be the DSP amp in the boot. You could be a guinea pig for me on that one. I've fitted one of Marty's replacements that involved chopping the original plug off and an awful lot of soldering in the boot so I'm working on a plug and play replacement using the original casing from the DSP amp but with two stereo amps and 4 crossovers inside. So it should be possible to unplug the DSP amp, fit this in its place and that will give you the front two channels and the sub while adding four more wires from the head unit to the amp to connect up the two rear channels (the DSP system only supplies left and right channels to the amp, the split and fade function to feed the rear speakers is done in the amp). The only problem I have at the moment is not having access to a car with the DSP system, working or not, to plug it in and try it to make sure it works and see what it sounds like. Once I've got it finished, you can try it on your car if you like.
Things that don't work as they should really annoy me, if it's there it should work and the fun in having everything working is in being able to get in it and use it (up to 416,400 now) without any worries. There's a lot to be gained from the devil you know. You know what the faults are, what you've done and what still needs to be done rather than giving up on it and buying someone else's pile of problems. That's why I spent £2,500 on an engine rebuild for mine rather than just getting a newer, lower mileage one to replace it with. I didn't really want to start all over again with the same problems I'd already dealt with on mine.
Why is the AC light on? Leave it so the light is off and the AC is working, far more likely to keep working that way. The worst thing you can do with AC is not use it and the P38 system is designed to blend hot and cold air so it assumes it will be always on. Blowers are easy enough to check by looking through the pollen filter holes to make sure they are both spinning. If only one is turning that explains a lack of airflow from the heater as the working one sucks air in on one side which instead of flowing through the matrix when it gets to the centre, carries on across the car and out the other side. Fixing the dead blower will turn the book symbol off if that was the cause.
Blend motors can be done without removing the dash. You can check which one is faulty by changing the temperature on each side from Lo to Hi and seeing it the air coming out changes temperature and altering where the flow goes using the buttons on the HEVAC to check the distribution motor. Passenger blend motor can be accessed by dropping the glovebox, distribution and drivers side motor can be accessed through the hole where the instruments live if you take the cluster out. Alternatively, a Nanocom will tell you what is causing the book symbol so you can deal with it.
Is there anything on your car that works as it should?
and a merry Christmas too. Due to lockdown and going into tier 4, our Christmas at my daughter's house was postponed until today. So I've just got home after celebrating a belated Christmas. We'll do Easter in about a months time......
What do you mean, I turned the aircon on? It is on by default, poking the button marked AC OFF so it lights up does what it says, it turns it off. Clutch won't engage all the time, it will cut in and out as needed controlled by the pressure in the system. If the HEVAC has the book symbol showing it won't try to operate whatever caused the book to come on in the first place. So if you have a faulty blend motor, it won't try to operate the blend motors, if you have a faulty blower, it won't try to operate that blower but if it detects a fault with the clutch, it won't try to operate that. However, on a later car like yours, the HEVAC operates a relay which operates the clutch so it doesn't detect a fault if the clutch isn't engaging, only if the relay isn't operating.
Are the ARP ones for the diesel studs rather than bolts like the V8 ones? If they are, although expensive, they make the job so much easier. They have the coarse thread on one end where they screw into the block and a much finer thread at the other end for a washer and nut. It's so easy to simply do them up in stages up to the max of 60-65 ft/lbs (80-85 Nm). I go 40 - 50 - 65 on the torque wrench, none of this heaving on a long breaker bar trying to get 90 degrees which you never can as there's always something in the way.