Sounds like the HEVAC has been swapped at some point but it shouldn't matter. The main difference is that a later one doesn't flag an error if it only sees a low current being drawn when trying to pull the compressor clutch in as it is expecting to just be operating a relay and not the clutch itself (but it is only a firmware change to stop it flagging an error, it is still capable of operating the clutch directly). It's the other way round that won't work, an early HEVAC needs to drive the clutch directly and not with the relay. Short to front windscreen is one that seems to appear at odd times but will only flag an error if you switch the heated screen on, under normal circumstances it won't bring up the book.

I just did it for you. Not sure if you an do it, do you have a picture of a dustbin underneath the post? I see Quote, Full Reply (not sure what that one does?), Edit, Delete, Report and Hide but as a mod I've probably got more there than you.

Looking at the parts list pictures, the mounting angles are different which might explain why yours are bolted on differently. I think I have seen mention of a mounting plate, which the parts list doesn't show, so that may be to allow you to fit a later sensor to an earlier car (or the other way round).

I just use a tyre pressure gauge but it's going to depend on what fitting it has for the Schrader valve.

Normally you press the button and the washers run for a preset time and the wipers give 4 wipes but if it thinks the washer fluid level is low it only washes while you hold the button. Not sure if the wipers only wipe once or not but with low fluid it also inhibits the headlight washers. The only setting in the BeCM is labelled Intermittent Wipe which is disabled as standard (or it is on a UK spec car anyway). If you enable that, if you have the wipers on continuous and stop at a set of lights, they drop down to intermittent until you start moving again.

Are they both the same? Can't remember which way round but one type has a flying lead with a dangling plug (early I think) while the other has a plug on the sensor itself. You may have one of one type and one of the other.

It's here https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/photos-of-method-for-freeing-blend-flaps-with-s-t-screw.14322/page-2. What you are doing is removing a clip that holds the two sides together and putting a self tapper in to keep them apart slightly. Might be worth putting some RTV over the holes and gap once you've done it.

Unless it has ABS in which case it has a modulator looking very similar to the one on a P38. I helped with the restoration of a soft dash LSE a couple of years ago, and that had ABS and metric unions.

A roll of Kunifer and a pipe flaring kit. P38 fittings are all metric but I have a feeling the unions on a Classic could be either, you'll need to check and buy a box of fittings too. For flexi hoses you best bet is to go for Goodridge, see https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/goodridge-hose-kit-for-range-rover-abs-1992-sra0104-6p or if you want Stainless, https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/goodridge-hose-kit-for-range-rover-abs-1992-stainless-fittings-sra0104-6c assuming you've got ABS (which I think was standard on the soft dash).

I changed the whole cassette on the Ascot but just unplugged the old one, fitted the new one and did the setting procedure. However, the motor hadn't been removed. How about winding it fully open, removing the motor, winding that fully forward then fully back until it stops, then refitting it? That way at least the fully open position should be right.

I intend putting the 2001 Vogue that I bought a half share of with a mate on up for sale on Car & Classic which seems to be the place for anything decent. There's a couple of ones on at the moment to give you a clue https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1316847 which is nothing special and https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1309255. Or put it in one of their auctions and give the full history and loads of pictures like this https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/auctions/1976-mercedes-benz-2304-ZgOxpn with a sensible reserve.

Glad I'm not the only one. The dear departed Mark (Orangebean) was the only other person that would be logged in on here no matter what time of day or night it was watching it live from one of the flyaways.

I've always had an interest in any form of motorsport but through work got involved at Silverstone for the GP every year from 1988 onwards. That also included 95 when there was a GP at Donnington too and was in at the beginning for the CART race they introduced at Rockingham (for it to sink without trace after one event). 2011 to 2013 I did sub-contract work for Formula One Management doing spectrum management at India, Canada, South Korea, and Malaysia so have seen it grow from the inside. I've met most of the drivers (MS was the most arrogant arse you could ever meet) too and my only complaint these days is they don't sound right. A V6 revving to 15,000 rpm with turbos acting as silencers just isn't the same as a V8 revving to 18,000 rpm through open pipes.

Oh I don't know, 600 million viewers worldwide means there's still quite a few. That's a lot more than a few blokes kicking a ball around.....

Mine was done by plod when it was built and the cables run from a split charge relay bolted to the RH top shock mount, down the bulkhead and along the inside of the RH chassis rail. The aux battery was on the RHS of the boot where the sat nav unit would be if it had one and the cables came up through the floor just behind the wheelarch in big grommets.

I was aware of the TUV requirements and also the problems with registering a modified vehicle in other countries (Spain and France being the two I'm familiar with). Two people have tried to register LPG converted vehicles in France and Spain and been told that as the LPG conversion was not done by the manufacturer, it had to be completely removed before the car would pass the test. Here, as long as the conversion has been done properly and the car can pass the MoT test and is over 10 years old, then it isn't a problem. Some things that are a problem are rigidly fixed, metal, bull bars for instance, as they make the car less safe to pedestrians when you drive into them, hence the squashy plastic ones.

I noticed the TUV approval system when looking for a replacement exhaust for my partners Merc SLK 280 (3 litre V6 engine). When the time comes, she wants something with a bit more growl to it when she gives it some throttle. I found a German company that do 3 different aftermarket exhaust systems, two are TUV approved but the performance one isn't and is marked as for export only. As long as it retains the cats, is secure, doesn't leak and isn't excessively noisy, then it would pass here irrespective of who made it. I got an MoT pass on a 1340cc Harley Davidson motorcycle (horrible thing to ride but that's a different story) fitted with straight through pipes, no silencing at all. The regulations say that "that the noise emitted from the motorcycle is not clearly unreasonably above the level expected from a similar motorcycle with a standard silencer in average condition" and, as some Harleys came with open pipes as standard, it was not above the level you would expect. It was bloody noisy though......

Over here, as long as a modification doesn't make the car less safe to you or others, then it is OK. With regard to changing headlight bulbs, so many of the cheap Chinese bulbs simply can't be set to give a proper cut off when dipped so are a danger to other road users and I suspect that is why they have taken the blanket approach of just saying if it never had them before it can't have them now. Some things can't be changed, for instance, if a car was fitted with cats when new, it has to have them to pass the test, even if it can pass the emissions test.

mad-as wrote:

the temps in my area are around -2 or 3 up to 35ish

So only slightly warmer than here.

2nd gear with the wind for 10km 4500rpm temps 117dec boiled at 118

There's proof for you, with an Ethylene Glycol mix in there, it wouldn't have boiled and would have stayed cooler so even the oil pressure would have remained. It would have dropped but not disappeared completely.

That makes more sense, antifreeze used to be methanol based (meths basically) which would evaporate out but unless you are really old, you were probably given out of date info even then. Ethylene Glycol (which was used in the Spitfire engines in WW2) has been used for a long time now with this Organic stuff in more recent years. You can get away with using plain water in some engines, marine engines often don't have a sealed cooling system and just suck water in from the sea but even with cast iron, it can still rot out. This is one of the heads from a Volvo Penta marine engine based on an all cast iron Ford Windsor 351 motor

What sort of temperatures do you get where you are then? UK can range between -10 and +30 Celsius (with it getting colder than that in some areas and hotter on odd days in summer), so the antifreeze and anti boil aspects of coolant are needed. Even if you don't get freezing temperatures I would have thought you would still need the additional headroom it gives you when it gets hotter.

StrangeRover wrote:

I dunno, but to be fair EV charging points are more plentiful than LPG points!!

But at least we don't clog them up for an hour at a time......

Morat wrote:

Damnit - snapped another caliper slide bolt, this time it was brand new :/

I set the torque wrench to 30NM and PING.

Are you sure your torque wrench is accurate? 30 NM is only 22 ft/lbs so not much above finger tight? I must admit I don't use a torque wrench on them, I just do them up finger tight then nip them up with a ring spanner. Mind you, my torque wrench doesn't go down that low, it starts at 30 ft/lb.