Yes it is, from the manual:

If it was running hot, I'd be checking the mixture but as it is running cool (and still doing the usual 200+ miles per tank of LPG), I don't think it's running rich. Point is, it isn't getting hot, after idling for over an hour it had crept up to 87 degrees and no hotter when slogging uphill with a trailer on the back.

Seems that it's running cool but not too cool so I'm happy with that. I'll have to check it again when the ambient is much higher just out of curiosity.

No additional fuses for the trailer socket. Assuming it has the factory trailer socket fitted and not an aftermarket one, Blue wire goes to pin 2 and is the rear fog light feed, RH indicator is Green on pin 4. That is for the UK standard 7 pin socket, if you have one of the 12 pin ones, the colours will be the same but the pin numbers won't be. They wiring from the trailer socket connects to a socket that dangles behind the RH rear light cluster. It's a white 6 way connector where the feed coming in for the RH indicator is on a Green/Yellow wire which changes to Green at that point before disappearing through a grommet in the floor of the car. There is likely to be another connector, a Supaseal one, under the car before the wiring gets to the socket itself.

Pulling left would suggest binding NS brake, not offside. But it's worth pulling them both off, checking the sliding pins they are bolted to to make sure they are moving freely and pumping the pistons out slightly and pushing them back in. If it is the sliding pins, you may be able to free them off or it's new calliper carrier time. If replacing callipers it's probably best to replace as a pair so you don't get uneven braking.

There's a lot more left in the tank when it says it's empty than you think, suppose there's less chance of running out. I only found out about the tilt when I once stopped at the side of a road with a very steep camber to deal with a phone call. I had a 1/4 tank of fuel when I stopped and half a tank when I pulled away after a few minutes.....

Today I refitted my windscreen top trim. When I had the screen replaced a few weeks ago, I checked RAVE to see how to remove it. The instructions say to slide a credit card between the trim and the roof and push the clips towards the left side of the car. Yeah right Mr Land Rover, not when they've been there for over 20 years. I suspect using a metal paint scraper and a hammer you might be able to move them but I failed with a plastic card (although I did use a Nectar card and not a credit card so maybe that had something to do with it) and the windscreen fitted failed with his special trim clip removing tool (which looked like a credit card with a handle on it). Between me and the windscreen fitter we managed to slide the trim sideways out of the clips but in doing so, some of them broke. When it came to putting it back there was about 3 that were beyond being reused so we spaced the remainder out evenly, fitted them to the car then pushed the trim downwards so it clicked back into the clips. All fine and back together.

Except that at speeds over 75 mph, there was this pretty horrendous wind noise from the top of the windscreen. Decided to get some new clips and do it again. For some reason I had it in my mind that there should be 11 in total, so I bought 15 (https://www.lrdirect.com/DCE10038L-Clip/). They arrived the other day and came in 3 packs. Genuine Rover parts in packs of 5. Got stuck in today, off with the A pillar trims, slide the top trim towards the left side of the car and the clips all came out, albeit not all of them in one piece. Fit the new clips to the studs on the body and realised there aren't 11 but 8 of them. Push the trim downwards one clip at a time and a nice healthy click was heard as it snapped into place. A Pillar trims back on and took it for a quick blast, no wind noise even up to 85 mph, job done.

But if anyone needs any replacement clips, I've got 7 brand new, genuine Rover ones, going spare. That means you only need to be able to get you trim out without breaking 1 of the original ones......

mad-as wrote:

Question , with anti freeze how dose it work when the anti freeze bit evaporates at around 75 dec when thermostats run at 82+ dec . do you have a specific thermostat for colder areas ?

Huh? Neat Ethylene Glycol has a boiling point, the temperature at which it will evaporate, of 197 degrees C, so if mixed 50/50 with water, with a boiling point of 100 degrees C, that means the coolant will have a boiling point of around 149 degrees. But that is at atmospheric pressure and the reason the cooling system is pressurised is to raise the boiling point even further. Hence you can often run at 120 degrees without it boiling over as long as the pressure cap is good and it doesn't spit the coolant out (then you overheat due to a lack of coolant). That's why running on plain water isn't a good idea as, other than it corrodes the engine and clogs the waterways, it has a lower boiling point that an anti-freeze mix.

No idea what the spec of this orange OAT stuff they recommend for the Thor is though.

There may be nothing wrong with it. The Ascot was showing empty with the gauge not even reaching to bottom mark, it took 3 gallons before it started to read anything. It you can tilt the car, left side down and right side up will cause the float to lift. Nano can show you the fuel level and it might be easier to see a slight change on that rather than on the gauge.

That's a new one, para 4.1.4 in the manual https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment. It used to say that you could convert to HID or LED as long as the beam pattern was correct, headlamp washers and wipers were fitted and the car had self levelling suspension or lights. So on a higher spec P38 with the headlamp wash wipe you were OK if you got decent LED bulbs and not the crappy Chinese ones that threw light around everywhere. I suspect they've had to fail so many where LEDs have been fitted to cars that don't have self levelling or the cheapo ones have been used so the beam pattern is wrong (and impossible to get right as on the pair that I tried) that they've decided to make it easy and fail the lot.

I wonder how they will differentiate on things like the modern Mercs that have LED on the higher spec cars or as an option on lower spec ones that ordinarily would have halogen?

Part number is AMR3020 but everywhere shows it as NLA. Mine split where you grab hold of it, in fact it looked like it had worn away with so many people opening it over the years so I built up the worn part with epoxy resin. Probably a few available from breakers though and might be in better condition over here as they won't have been subjected to such extremes of temperature.

romanrob wrote:

WIfe just got a Tesla (I haven't even been in it yet... too busy fixing the P38)

and the P38 is keeping you too busy to start divorcing her obviously........

I went through the same as you with the sunroof on the Ascot with the bolts holding the motor but I also had broken bits in the mechanism and a worn cable, hence replacing the whole cassette. You should be able to get the motor to remember where it needs to be by setting it. Drive it fully open and keep your finger on the button for a couple of seconds after it has stopped, then drive it all the way forwards until it stops (even it it stops in the wrong place) and hold the button for a couple of seconds, release the button then press it to tilt the roof, again when it doesn't go any further, hold the button for a couple of seconds, then close it and hold the button. It should then have found where it should stop and the dash will beep and display Sunroof Set.

92p an hour? Surely that's over a Euro, I trust you are going to advise her she needs to declare it on her tax return......

I replace the whole carrier, cheap enough if you go for Shitpart and it's only a lump of metal so they can't really get it wrong https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-brake-caliper-carrier-britpart-stc1907-p-26995.html or actually not that more expensive if you go for TRW https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-brake-caliper-carrier-stc1907g-p-823.html assuming rears. If it's fronts, Britpart are even cheaper https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-caliper-carrier-front-britpart-stc1917-p-28133.html but TRW are quite a big jump https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-caliper-carrier-front-stc1917g-p-819.html or if you've just come up on the lottery, you could always go for genuine https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-caliper-carrier-front-stc1917-p-33256.html.

Problem with just replacing the slides is the hole in the carrier is likely to be worn too so they will be a sloppy fit.

But have you seen the price!!!! Over a grand. Allbrit lists both those part numbers as non-cat systems for the Australian market where they didn't have cats until later (Thor I think). Non-cat downpipes don't have holes for the lambda sensors either and it's doubtful it will meet the emissions requirements for the MoT.

I fitted one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/range-rover-p38-exhaust-system-p38-V8-exhaust-system-complete-front-rear-94-99/272214722398 and while dropping the crossmember makes it a slightly more lengthy process, wasn't that difficult. Makes just buying the Y piece and cats on their own seem expensive https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/range-rover-p38-catalytic-converter-p38-v8-downpipes-with-cats-wcd000860-99-my/252021472328.

You don't leave the G clamp in place, although I suppose you could, you squash the box so the cat stops rattling.

It will have had cats from new so removing them is an automatic MoT fail. Is the Y piece all one unit or does it have joins behind the cats? My original one had joins so I could remove them at the join and at the manifold and gut the cats. However, as I;m running on LPG they aren't needed for the emissions anyway. I have heard of people stopping a rattle by squeezing the cat body with a big G clamp to hold the innards secure.

One thing to watch if you don't have the sunroof is to make sure you put plenty of glue in the indent where the sunroof would be. I didn't and it hasn't stuck at that point. My excuse is it was the first time we'd ever done one.....

'Tis a bit strange, normally with an ABS error you get ABS Fault, immediately followed by Traction Failure. A brake light switch that needs resetting can cause it when you brake but that wouldn't be affected by trying to get the TC to do its stuff. Wouldn't cause the speedo to drop to zilch either.

Beautiful job, well done.

Looks like the replacement stat I fitted about 7 years ago is an 82 degree one then. I needed a new radiator some time ago, the one in it (may even have been the original) did the job as you would expect until I was going uphill, towing about 3 tonnes in summer and the gauge started to climb. Putting the HEVAC on Prog so it went to full heating bought the gauge back down confirming the rad was only just flowing enough when things got critical. That was when I fitted the Direnza as it was around £160 at the time, so not much more than a standard replacement so it seemed like a good idea. I've towed up to the 3.5 tonne limit in ambient temperatures up to 40 degrees so keeping the cooling system up to scratch isn't such a bad idea considering what can happen if it isn't.

But it does sound like running at 85-86 degrees isn't going to do any harm and gives me plenty of headroom if things do start to cause it to run a bit hotter.

There's a hook at the base of the seat that goes over a latch in the floor as you tilt the backrest of the seat to the upright position. If there is anything stopping the seat base from going down fully, it doesn't latch.

I'd be more worried if it was running closer to 100 degrees and relying on the pressure to keep the boiling point down. More wondering what sort of temperature range is acceptable.