Every gasket you need to remove and if I was doing it for myself, rather that stretch bolts I'd fit a set of ARP head studs. The stretch bolts come in various grades of quality, too soft and they stretch too much (or break) and don't hold the head down firmly, too little and you can stress the threads in the block. The studs have the coarse thread where they go into the block but a much finer thread on the top where the nut goes so you have more control of the torque. Do them up to 65-70 ft/lbs (in 3 stages, 40, 55, 65) and the job is done, not cheap though. Don't try putting the studs into the block then fitting the heads, put one stud in (centre top is a good one) to guide the head down then once it is on, screw the studs in hand tight. Head bolts (and studs) need a 16mm socket and I've found a 1/2" drive socket for the smaller headed spark plugs is a perfect fit and usually 6 point too.

Your memories will come flooding back, the A series is a pushrod 4 pot and so is the V8, it's just two of them.

To allow the tailgate to open, you need to ground the Green/Red wire from the RH front latch, either at the latch or at the connector behind the RH rear panel in the boot.

RHD drivers side latch has 3 microswitches, as does the passenger side although only 2 of them are used, so you'll probably get one microswitch more than you need. You don't have a key lock on the RH side so the keyswitch won't be required.

All suppliers are showing it as subject to suppliers stock, which would be Land Rover. Unfortunately LR themselves are showing it as out of stock (https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/fqj103240-latch-assembly-front-door.html). Tailgate locking is supplied by a ground from the RH front door latch so if that door is unlocked the tailgate is too. I don't see why you couldn't fit a RH RHD latch though.

What's the air gap on the compressor clutch like? Mine was well worn and too wide (it should be between 16 and 30 thou) and the feed from the HEVAC goes through the notorious multiway connector in the RH footwell (as well as via the Trinary switch), so a combination of a wide air gap and a bit of resistance in the connector and it wouldn't kick in. I tried putting a relay in place so the coil would be energised from the HEVAC and switch full battery volts but that won't work on an early HEVAC. It looks at the amount of current being drawn and if it sees a lower than normally expected amount, it assumes a problem and doesn't try to energise the relay any more.

No, not coded, you just need to get the correct one. You'll have the 4 wheel TC rather than 2 wheel on a GEMS.

It looks daunting at first glance but once the inlet manifold is off it's just a pair or 4 cylinder pushrod engines sitting side by side. It's a weekends work in reality if you've never done it before, a day the second time. If you've got the overhaul section in RAVE, then it gives you step by step instructions with lots of pictures, torque settings, order for doing the bolts up, etc. It's not difficult at all, I'd rather do head gaskets than wheel hubs in all honesty, there's nothing there to seize up. Island do a complete head gasket set, with all the gaskets you will need (and quite a few that you won't need) or you can buy head gaskets, valley gasket, valley end rubbers and rocker cover gaskets separately if you prefer.

Dodgy wiring somewhere then.....

again.

Acetal, Delrin, Nylon, wood, whatever you have handy or can get hold of easily enough. As long as it is strong enough that it won't be crushed by the weight of the car. With the Access height ones I found that they almost completely disappeared inside the bumpstops making getting them out again difficult. So I drilled and tapped an M6 thread in one end so I can screw a bolt in to pull them out with. Also marked big arrows so I always put them in the correct way up (so the threaded hole was visible).

Yes, it isn't difficult, just a bit awkward laying underneath the car manhandling the weight of it. You obviously got a decent one. I bought a DA1065 tool and found I still couldn't get it onto the nuts so use a 3/8" drive 14mm socket on a wobble end extension. Still not easy but gets the job done.

Try swapping them as it will at least move the operating point to a different part of the track. You may find that you then get errors with it on High instead.

You've got an ABS ECU problem. Speedo is driven from pulses from the ABS ECU so that, coupled with odd ABS and TC errors suggests ECU.

Was it sitting level when you got those readings? A difference between 108 and 144 from side to side is far too great. Stored values look a bit odd too, you need to make yourself a set of blocks and do it properly.

Valley gasket is pretty straightforward and not difficult. See what the other 6 core plugs look like (3 on each side of the block). If they are starting to look crusty then chances are the ones at the back of the block are too. If they look good, then they should all be much the same.

Screen will only fail MoT if it is cracked. Insurance here will pay for a stonechip to be repaired as that is cheaper than waiting for it to turn into a crack and need replacement, so they may well cover taking it out and rebonding.

The EAS pipe connection that is leaking is the one that goes to the reservoir so needs to be good (well, they all do but that one particularly). You can pull the collet out and, using your Land Rover approved crochet hook, pull out the O rings and just replace those. Then trim a couple of mm off the end of the pipe and chamfer it with the Land Rover approved pencil sharpener so the groove that will have formed where the O ring sits is in a different place. If you don't have any spare O rings to hand, just trimming the pipe should be enough.

The coolant leak isn't so simple. It could be coming from the back of the valley gasket on one side (is it dribbling down both sides of the engine and bellhousing or just one side?), can you see coolant higher up? Bad news is that is if isn't coming from there, there's two core plugs on the back of the block behind the flywheel. Drop the round inspection plate off and see if it is wet inside there or if it is running down the outside.

Nitromoors will dissolve the lacquer but won't damage the board or the tracks but acetone may work as well. It does on some lacquer but not all.

Cheapest option for a P38 diagnostics that will connect to all the different systems is the EASUlock V4. It's a software based system that needs to be run on a laptop rather than a stand alone hand held unit. See https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-p38a/range-rover-p38a-eas-unlock-v3. It can't show live values though.

Cheapest option for a P38 diagnostics that will connect to all the different systems is the EASUlock V4. It's a software based system that needs to be run on a laptop rather than a stand alone hand held unit. See https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-p38a/range-rover-p38a-eas-unlock-v3. It can't show live values though.

Won't work any better than any cheapo generic OBD reader that you can pick up from about a tenner upwards. The OBD standard only applies to engine parameters, and even then, mostly ones that affect the emissions. For everything else you need a dedicated reader of some sort. That would be a Nanocom or similar for the P38, Vagcom (now known as VCDS) for VW Audi, Opcom for General Motors, and so on.