Chasman wrote:

Going to check the sensor input plug pins with multimeter now. Should be 1.2k Ohms. I guess I'm looking for half that across a pair?

You aren't looking at half, they are wired to the ECU individually, so if you look at the diagram I posted above, you can test each one from the plug at the ECU end. From there you will also be able to test for continuity from one sensor to any of the others.

I mentioned the Wabco D known fault as Marty has found it in the past. It reports a fault as one sensor short to another but it isn't on the wiring, it is internal to the ECU. I know he has successfully repaired them in the past (it was on his website but he is currently building a new one as he updated the old one and screwed it up). but as he has now relocated back to New Zealand, sending it to him may take a while.

Diagram

Pinouts

If I remember correctly, resistance of the sensors is around 1.2kOhms although the one sensor short to another fault is a known one with the Wabco D ECU and it may just be pure coincidence that it happened after you had been working on the hubs.

I'm retired..... Dina and I have lived together for over 9 years anyway but it made sense as if we were married then if anything happens to either of us the other gets the pension money. It was her decision that we would have a proper 'do' though.

In between the projects, the red P38, the boat and other things, I install domestic AC units to top up the pensions and give me money to spend on the other projects.

Thanks everyone. We're going away for a couple of weeks on Monday but the laptop will be with me so I can still check in and delete the spam at least once a day......

I'll start with an apology. Two spam posts were on here for almost 24 hours before I saw them and deleted them, but I've been a bit busy.

Some of you will have met Dina, my partner, when we had the grand headlining replacement session at Marty's workshop. Well, she isn't my partner any longer as she finally made an honest man of me yesterday. We are well known in the village, Stilton where the cheese originated, as the couple with the Range Rovers and 3 small hairy dogs (miniature long hair dachshunds). So, the dogs were bought to the venue for photographs and we displayed the his and hers cars outside.

It's almost certainly the first time in my life I've polished 2 cars in one day (in fact, I worked it out, it's only the 4th time mine has been polished in the near 15 years I've owned it).

I just print out the relevant page when I need it and throw it away when I've finished. Common ones are head bolt and inlet manifold tightening torque and order and the brake bleeding process. If I was using a paper manual, there would be some pages that would be totally illegible from oily fingerprints! A bit like years ago when you could get a Haynes manual from the library if you needed one, you could tell what jobs others had been doing as the book would fall open at various pages.

There's a work around for it suddenly stopping working under Win 10, see https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/rave-not-running-under-windows-10.346140/. I did that and the full version has worked perfectly ever since. I don't like the cut down one as it is from LRNAS so is US biased rather than being the proper one. The differences are minor but they are there.

I would think it depends on what version of RAVE you are running. If you are running the official UK version with the embedded Acrobat reader V4, you are probably stuck with Windoze (although I'm running it in compatibility mode under Win 10). If you are running the cut down version all you will need is a .pdf reader of some sort.

Repair kit is OK but you are still repairing 25+ year old speakers and technology has moved on a bit (plastic cones rather than paper, etc). On the red one I've recently removed the door amps and fitted 2 way crossovers in their place so the door speakers can be fed directly from the head unit. Front passenger speaker on that was seized too so it now has a real motley selection with HK speakers in front right and left rear with standard ones in the other two doors. Still sounds pretty good though and the original sub on that was in good nick for a change.

Wait for Nigelbb to reply. He got some and we fitted them into his. The sub amp was bolted to the back of the speaker and the new ones didn't have anywhere to bolt it to so I drilled a couple of holes in the side of the housing and used long M6 bolts with some nuts to act as spacers and bolted it there. So I know how to do it but not what speakers you need.....

Chopping the heads off with an angle grinder is a lot more fun.....

Lpgc wrote:

If a starter motor is drawing more amps than usual (to dim lights etc), where is that power going (and why) if it isn't converted to magnetic power / torque to spin the engine?

It's converted to heat. A dodgy starter has more resistance (due to the additional resistance between brushes and commutator) so it gets very hot.

I'd go for number 3, the starter is failing. It needs more current to turn the engine over, hence the dimming lights, so the increased current demand coupled with a battery that isn't at its best, is most likely to cause the problem. A few months ago I went to rescue one owner from a car park where his starter had failed completely. Fitted a new starter and he reckoned it spun the engine over far faster than the old one had done suggesting the old one had been getting slower over a long period.

I can put it in a Jiffy bag and send it by post.

Dry the interior of the car out with a dehumidifier.

And don't add Russian links to posts (now edited out) unless you want a permanent ban.

Or do you mean the cover that goes on the back to stop it filling with water? If you do, yes, I've got one.

Round cover? Do you mean the later fog lights with the clear centre rather than the ones with vertical stripes on earlier cars?

Not doing too bad. As we didn't really get a summer this year I haven't been inundated with people wanting air con so have had more time for other stuff. The Rioja Red '98 4.0SE that I picked up and Dina immediately claimed because it's pretty, has kept me busy and got a hectic week coming up but there'll be more on that when the time comes.

They are bolted to a couple of brackets attached to the chassis rails on Rivnuts, so just take them off. The holes are there in the chassis rails anyway so the rivnuts can be fitted if needed but you are unlikely to see them unless you are laying under the car. The red one I've recently bought had a (aftermarket) sidestep on one side and a couple of nasty looking lumps of metal sticking out on the other side, so I just removed the lot. I admit I had to resort to the angle grinder on most of the bolts into the rivnuts though.

P1171 Oxygen Sensor System Too Lean Fault Banks A & B

So that is also pointing towards lambda sensor(s). A lean mixture gives 0V (rich gives 1V), so a dead or disconnected sensor will also show as a lean mixture. What readings did it give on emissions at the MoT? On petrol it should fail the test with a dead or disconnected sensor.

I means what it says. It adapts the mixture to keep it within pre-set limits but if it exceeds those limits it brings up the fault. If it was there all the time I'd say the bank 1 lambda sensor is dead but as it appears to be intermittent, I suspect you are looking at a dodgy connection or a sticking fuel injector. If a sticking injector I would expect to also see a P030x code to identify which cylinder.