Agreed, I'd start with fluid and filter first and make sure you fill it fully as on a 2001 you don't have the dipstick tube like on the earlier cars. I came across the same problem on an Audi years ago and that was because it had been serviced and the mechanic that did it had put the wrong fluid in it.
Yeah well, just occasionally there's something that I've never come across and figured out before but this is a completely new one on me. Just hoping someone else has had it and figured it out but I strongly suspect someone has been playing and got it wrong.
Is your scapper a 98 or 99 model year (WA or XA VIN number)? If it is a 98 model year car, it will have the Wabco C system so the only things that will be of any use on a 2001 will be the ABS pump, accumulator and wheel sensors, the ECU is different as the Wabco D unit was fitted to 99 model year onwards. Without the ECU, pump and accumulator, the brakes will still work, not very well and will need a lot of pressure on the pedal. At least it is a big pedal so there's room for you to put both feet on it.....
The 4.0SE I've just bought is giving an ABS Fault, Traction Failure on the message centre as soon as it is started and before it has moved. Read the codes with the Nanocom and there were lots of them so cleared those hoping I would just be left with the relevant ones. There's not as many as there were but still a lot and not the usual wheel sensor errors. It's a '98 GEMS so has the Wabco C system and the faults are as follows:
Open circuit to normally open ETC valve
Short between valves on outlet demanual valve
Short between valves on normally closed ETC valve
No inductive load on normally closed ETC valve
Anyone got a clue what these are telling me? It looks like I've got to start looking at the ABS system wiring but with the other half or incorrectly done modifications that the car has been subjected to, it wouldn't surprise me if someone has tried fitting a 4 wheel TC modulator without changing the ECU for a Wabco D, so checking that might give a clue as to what is going on.
Harv wrote:
I’m waiting for the 500,000 signature.
So am I but when I try to update it, it won't let me......
So here it is, with the Ascot and the Merc it may replace behind it.
and from the other side.....
Spent today fitting a new centre silencer box to the Ascot as it won't go through an MoT with one that has split along the seam, then did a bit on the new one. It needed a rear height sensor but found I had 5 spare fronts but no rears, so swapped over the arm from a dead rear and fitted it to a front. Fitted that, after having to use the angle grinder on the bolts holding the old one on, and the EAS is now working as it should. It probably needs a full calibration but it actually looks like the heights are about right. It had a side step (non-standard alloy thing) on one side and two lumps of steel sticking out the side on the other. Of the 8 bolts, two came out, on 2 the rivnuts started to turn in the chassis so the grinder came out again and I just cut the heads off the remaining 6 bolts. Then, I broke the habit of a lifetime and gave it a wash. It has a scratch along the drivers door, a couple of small marks here and there and the LPG filler in the rear wing, probably because it has twin electric towing sockets so there isn't a spare space to fit it there as it is on both the others. Not really much that can be done about that but it is a shame.
So now it no longer has an EAS fault on the dash, it still has a LH front window not set message as the window appears to have been jammed shut and the motor can be heard doing something but not moving the window. There is also a LH window regulator in the boot too but I'm just hoping someone hasn't welded the window runners to keep it closed like they have the steering column. It also has an ABS fault but that one deserves a thread of its own so that will be appearing shortly.....
nigelbb wrote:
Apart from just putting the nozzle of a vacuum cleaner over the aperture below the clock how else can I clean it? I can't find how to remove it.
Centre console side panels off, knee panel off, switch panel off and it is screwed to the inside of the switch panel with two tiny but long pozi 1 screws. Once it is out, the best way of cleaning it is with a soft paintbrush as the fins of the fan get covered in dust as well as the thermistor.
Sorry, just checked. I've got a headlight switch, a few other dash switches, a couple of blend motors but no sign of an aspirator so hopefully cleaning the fluff out will get it reading correctly.
I always use genuine LR ones and haven't had a leak yet. If you look at the way the connection is designed, the O rings aren't crushed into the joint but the clamp stops them from being bolted up tight which allows some movement which is taken up by the 'squashiness' of the O rings, so you don't want them glueing in place as they are more likely to leak than less.
Other way round. It is the front that is expensive probably because there is more to it.
Damn, signature won't update......
nigelbb wrote:
Richard, you need to update your signature to include the new acquisition. It looks like quite a project that you have taken on but I'm assuming with all the issues that you got it at a good price.
Signature updated. It was advertised at £995, I knocked him down to £700...... Once I've sorted the mechanics and Dina has done the interior, it should make a nice car.
I thought you had a couple of steering columns there, so put one to one side for me in case I can't get the one I have sorted out. I'll be there on either 23rd or Friday 26th, whichever suits you best. I will also take one of the front bumpers as I had a call last night from the owner in Spain who has had an argument with a concrete post in a supermarket car park so wants one. He's prepared to pay money for it too but quite how we are going to get it to Spain is a different story.....
Other things I discovered on the new one, it only came with one manual key, no remotes but the BeCM is unlocked so I have the lockset number (and EKA), heads on the engine looked new and checking engine the number shows it to be a 46D, so not a 4.0 litre but a 4.6. It has another number manually stamped into it, JQ1035, so I suspect that is a number put there by someone that has rebuilt it. Anyone know who stamps a number in this format onto engine blocks as it would be interesting to see what was done to it, if we're lucky it may even have been top hatted.....
You got home then, or are you still heading north? I'll post pictures of my new acquisition if you post some of yours.....
What have I done today? Only gone and bought another one......
I have always said that my ideal colour combination would be Rioja Red with the dark grey interior but most seem to have Lightstone which I honestly don't like. Then I found one, a '98 4.0SE in Rioja Red, with LPG, 134,000 on the clock, 9 previous keepers and no MoT as it has been stood for 3 years but with, you guessed, bloody Lighstone interior. However, the price was right and Dina said she liked the look of it. So the plan is to sell the Ascot (a 96 4.6 HSE with LPG) and keep this one instead. In fact, Dina has said she might even consider selling her Merc and running it all the time.
Picked it up today, battery had been put on charge by the seller (so he claimed) but it still wouldn't turn it over so got my spare Hankook MF31-1000 out of the boot of my car and fitted that. It also had very little, or no, petrol in it so bunged a gallon in out of a can also from my boot. Bodywork and paint is in pretty good nick but the interior is disgusting. No rips or splits in anything but absolutely filthy, bits of trim removed but most are in the boot, No idea why they had been taken off but even the cowl around the steering column was off. Started it on petrol as half of the LPG system has been removed and there's no power to the switch. Ran reasonably well but wasn't too keen on idling, AC compressor bearing completely shot so howling away all the time and the message centre (after it had told me about all the windows not being set, came up with EAS Fault, ABS Fault, Traction Failure and sometimes, Gearbox Fault. Nanocom told me that the RR height sensor was out of range and was showing a permanent 253 bits, ABS gave loads of fault codes but the engine was running, the gearbox fault only came up if I started it in P but not in N and the brakes stopped it, so it looked like I could drive it the 80 miles to get it home.
Fortunately I have a trade insurance policy covering me for any car I own or in my custody for motor trade purposes, so armed with a copy of the certificate for when it pinged up on the ANPR in a passing police car and having primed my tame MoT tester that it was booked in later today if a policeman phoned him to check if I really was on my way to a pre-booked MoT, we set off. First stop was for some petrol and while there put some air in the tyres and off we went with Dina following in my white one. It's got 19" L322 wheels on it (fitted with 20 year old tyres!) and started to shudder pretty badly between 55 and 60mph and at anything over 60 it got a bit unstable as the EAS fault had caused it to rise to High. Quite how anyone manages to drive one that has been lifted is beyond me....
At a steady 60mph, the trip computer said it was doing 21.6mpg and seemed to be reasonably happy but with about 20 miles to go, it started to misfire. Having the Nanocom plugged in so I could reset the EAS fault if it decided to drop me to the bumpstops, I reset the adaptive values which made the misfire far worse to the point it wouldn't do more than about 40mph but I found that if I poked the Sport button and floored the throttle, the misfire disappeared over 3,500 rpm and I got it home.....
Had a look through the bits in the boot, found a replacement AC compressor, so fitted that, now it ran without howling. Checked the idle air valve setting and after adjusting the idle screw got that to where it should be and it idled a lot better. Then thought I refit the steering column cowl but first, I needed to investigate why the steering wheel could be moved in and out but not up and down. It was jammed in the highest position so it wasn't possible to see the message centre without leaning forward and peering over the top of the driver's airbag. Having had a look at it, it soon became obvious why it wouldn't move. Some dickhead had welded it! Now I know that the system isn't perfect and often gets gummed up with lack of use (when I first got the Ascot I tried to adjust the steering wheel position and it wouldn't lock, driving along with a steering wheel that flops up and down is an interesting experience) but welding it in place rather than un-gumming the works is a bit extreme. I'll be attacking it with the grinder in the near future and will report on how I get it to work as it should or not as the case may be.......
ABS sensors are ABS sensors, it doesn't matter if they came off a car with Wabco D or an earlier one.
If you want to change the bearings in the hub, yes you do need a big hydraulic press irrespective of what brand you buy. Far easier to just buy the complete hub assembly complete with bearing like this, rear https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-assy-eurospare-ftc3223-p-27885.html and front https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-assy-britpart-ftc3243-p-27181.html or https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-assy-timken-ftc3226-p-27883.html.
That's the external temperature sensor, not the aspirator. Aspirator is JTF000030 which is available but a little more expensive https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/jtf000030-sensor-in-car-temperature.html?code=60907
I have a feeling I have a spare one, I'll have a look later and see if I can find it.
Why are you buying stuff from Aus when there are numerous breakers in the UK (and probably a few in ROI too)? Whether it has had only tarmac use or has spent its entire life off road won't make a blind bit of difference to ABS sensors.
That is the height sensor so it reports the height of a corner to the ECU so it knows whether to inflate or deflate the air spring to keep the height or that corner correct. If it is broken or has come adrift, the ECU won't know what height the corner is at and when it puts more air into the spring it won't see the height change so will result in an EAS fault.
A corner going down has nothing to do with the ABS, that is, as you suggest, a problem with the air spring.
Unlikely to be a CV joint but could be either of the other two. The reluctor ring has one tooth fractionally higher than the others so the sensor is tapped in as far as it will go and after one rotation is pushed out so the air gap is correct. It may be that the sensor coil is breaking down every so often (it contains a coil of thousands of turns of extremely fine copper wire) which triggers the fault or it could be a worn wheel bearing that isn't running true so pushing the sensor out too far.