Assuming your reader is converting the 5-0V reading into an OBD2 compliant 0-1V reading, the short term trims should be changing. When showing 0.14V, the short term trims should go positive (lean mixture so the trims put more fuel in), when showing 0.61V, the trims should go negative.
What are the long term trims showing? If the adaptive values have been reset, they should be showing zero. One thing does spring to mind though. On a GEMS, the adaptive values won't reset unless you have at least a 1/4 tank of fuel in the car so it doesn't reset anything that could have been caused by a low fuel level. How much is in it and have the values all reset to zero?
Land Rover don't manufacture the lambda sensors (in fact, like all manufacturers, they don't manufacture most bits, they just bolt together bits from other suppliers), they will be made by someone that specialises is that particular component and given a Land Rover part number. So AMR6244 may be FAE77350, NTK0475 (NGK0475), Walker 250-24512 to name just a few depending on who made it for them. If the plug is correct, it will be the correct part.
What does live data show from the lambda sensors show when it is running rough compared with what it says when running correctly? When you let off the throttle, it will go lean as the injectors are cut off on the overrun to save fuel and give better engine braking, so try to check it when accelerating if it is running cleanly then.
Pete12345 wrote:
Yes Gilbert, I know it's wrong !!
Technically it is but any system where the refrigerant has leaked out is full of air so it isn't any different. Strictly speaking the dryer should be replaced but even if it isn't, it'll still work, maybe not at optimum, but it will work.
You are quite right though. I saw a survey that had been done recently on the practical skills of people broken down into age groups. It was things like can you hang wallpaper, can you wire a 13A plug, can you change a tap washer, can you change the wheel on your car and so on. What they found was that the vast majority in the 50+ age group answered yes to almost everything, those in the under 30 age group answered no to almost all of them. It isn't surprising there are so many cowboys about these days as there is a rapidly diminishing number of skilled (or even semi-skilled) people about as the younger generations would rather learn how to sit behind a computer rather than go out and get their hands dirty doing something practical.
You probably could, most DIY competent people over the age of 50 would be able to do it, only problem is getting the units. Due to them being charged with Ozone Depleting gases it is illegal for anyone to supply to a non F-Gas registered person. Then it needs to be commissioned by a qualified person too and there's the kit you need to install and test them which cost me over a grand for the bare minimum. There's a couple of dodgy suppliers you find on the internet that will supply to anyone (they've already been prosecuted twice but just pop up with a different name) but they supply some really horrible Chinese made units that I doubt will last much more than a couple of years.
I've installed quite a few systems in living rooms but whether it is really worthwhile I've no idea. The customer wants one in the living room so that is where I put it..... My daughter has found that if she leaves the bedroom units on at 21 degrees and leaves the doors open, the cool air falls so they cool the whole house.
That's a bit sneaky, if you don't get anything in the post in 28 days, they didn't get flashed...... We've all been bitten at some point, which is why I do everything myself and don't take it in to anyone. I started playing with engines when I was 11 (I'm now 68, 69 later this month) and have always tackled most things on cars and bikes. So mechanics was my hobby but work was radio communications and electronics until I retired just as lockdown started, which was a bit of bad planning but when I'd put my 3 months notice in, nobody knew what was to come. I'd intended getting a part time job (van driver for Euro Car Parts or one of the other local motor factors was high on the list) to top up the (pretty decent) pension until the State pension kicked in but lockdown killed that idea. Those that were still working were working from home, including my daughter who was using a spare bedroom as an office, and the weather got very hot. She rang me and asked if I could install air conditioning for her. Looked into it and found it was electrics and plumbing, both things I could do, but found that to even buy a unit I needed to be F-Gas registered. A mate had done a course to do car AC just before lockdown and he recommended the same place he had done his course at. I rang them and while the car AC course is one day and a fairly simple exam at the end of it, the full F-Gas for domestic and industrial was a week but, as I had nothing better to do, signed up for it. Did the course and asked what was different in my course to what my mate Danny had done. I had been taught how a system worked, all the legislation involved as well as practical tests whereas the car course just taught you how to do it and why you did it the way you did. So on the last day I did my F-Gas practical test, then the exam, had a coffee then did a regas on my car and sat the exam for the car course, so I ended up with both qualifications.
Put an AC system in for my daughter, two indoor units in the two bedrooms from a single outdoor unit and it was working perfectly. A couple of days later she was on a Skype call with her boss who noticed the AC unit on the wall behind her. Put one in for him the following week. I put a free advert of facebook and it went from there. I won't work more than 3 days a week, ideally only 1 or 2, but it keeps me busy and as each job is different it can be quite interesting at times working out the best way to run pipework, where to mount units and so on.
Another mate is a full time professional musician but as all the theatres were shut during lockdown, he had no work and was asking me about the work I was doing. I told him about the one day car AC course so he did it too. So the pair of them cover Cambridgeshire, Bedfordshire, Buckinghamshire and Hertfordshire. But, not having been taught the theory like I was, I still get phone calls when they find something they don't understand and that is people that have been taught how to do it and not someone who has simply been shown how to use the machine.
Another problem I have found with using a UV light is anti-freeze also glows green. So if you've ever had a coolant leak or spilt any, you'll see green everywhere.
Ooh, 4 hole filled toroidal tank. The pipe coming in from the right is the fill line, that has a non-return valve inside the brass bit so you can fill the tank but if you disconnect the pipe to it, gas doesn't come out. Next to that is the level gauge which is pretty self explanatory, the thing with a red cap on it is a pressure relief valve and the bit on the left is the outlet. That has an electrical solenoid valve in it to shut off the gas outlet as soon as the power is taken off. I'm not sure if a 4 hole outlet has a manual shut off or not, if there is a knurled knob on that bit, it does, if there isn't it doesn't but if the solenoid is disconnected then it can't open. If you want to be really belt and braces, you can remove the small nut in the centre of the solenoid coil and lift the coil off, then the outlet can never open.
If you do decide to remove it, let me know as it would go nicely in the boot of the Rioja red 4.0SE I've just bought (and has been claimed as hers by the other half) as not only was the tank in it fitted the wrong way round, the bodger that 'installed' the system only fitted a 70 litre tank so there's a huge gap all the way round it and it will need filling more often. Not so good now LPG is getting harder to find and the maximum range possible is desirable.
You'll need a pair of these,https://www.amazon.co.uk/Connector-Extractor-Condition-Adjustable-Coupler/dp/B083M2CV1P/ref=sr_1_21_sspa. The standard connection on all AC hoses is a 1/4" flare so you'd need the correct hoses too, although for the price you could even splash out and get yourself a kit like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/KATSU-Tools-Manifold-Conditioner-Refill/dp/B094R8NCVZ/ref=sr_1_5 so you will have the connectors and hoses.
The recommendation is not to use air to pressure test as it will introduce moisture which means you should really replace the dryer. However, there's thousands of cars that have been running around with no refrigerant in them for years before someone decides to sort things out and the while system will have been full of air all that time and a simple regas will do the job.
The only way you can find a leak on an empty system is by putting pressure in it and checking. If they are doing the leak test properly they won't use pure Nitrogen but what is known as trace gas which is a mix of Nitrogen and another inert gas that can be detected with an electronic sniffer. The Kwik Fit and similar use a programmable machine and in most cases have no idea what it is they are actually doing. They connect the machine, tell it what car it is so it can use a look up table to identify how much gas it needs and press the go button. Doing it manually you recover any remaining gas, fill the system with Oxygen Free Nitrogen (that's what it says on the cylinder anyway but if it had any Oxygen in it, it would be air surely?) at 10 bar and leave it for 30 minutes or, if using a digital gauge any leak will be seen in 10 minutes, and see if the pressure drops. If it doesn't then you let the OFN out, vacuum out the system (down to less than 0.01 psi) and fill with the correct quantity of R134A refrigerant.
The difference is the machine only pressurises to 3 bar which is below the operating pressure so it may not show a leak whereas if done properly it will. I install domestic AC systems and on those they are pressure tested to 40 bar and ideally left for a minimum of 2 hours. So although I don't have any R134A, I do have the kit for pressure testing. The other halves Merc was losing gas after 3 or 4 months so I pressure tested it at 10 bar and it had to be left overnight before the pressure drop was noticeable. It's a shame you aren't a bit closer to me, I have two friends (both former P38 owners as it happens) that are mobile AC engineers. On a very small leak like you have there's three options. Replace anything that hasn't already been replaced, get it gassed by Kwik Fit (or ATS who often have cheap deals through Groupon) every year or use a leak sealer. The latter will keep it running for a couple of years at least on a small leak (the missus's Merc has been working for almost 3 since we put some in) and Halfords do a small can for around £20. The problem there is that it needs to be added during the regas process. The system is half filled, the can attached and some of the gas is allowed into the can, shake it about a bit to mix the two liquids, then let the mix into the system before continuing with putting the gas in. So not an option if someone is using the programmable machine as they won't be able to interrupt the process.
Ahh that makes sense. So ideally you need 8mm long M6 bolts (or longer ones and cut them down).
M12 threads? That's huge!
10mm will probably be a bit long, they need to be roughly the same as the thickness of the manifold where it is drilled. You don't really want a length of the bolt sticking into the intake obstructing the airflow. Might be a good idea to take one of the spuds out and see if you can gauge the length you need.
No need to drain the coolant, you'll lose a bit but not a lot, just take the Tee's out (assuming it has been plumbed in parallel with the heater) and replace with straight joiners (or replace the complete hoses with new). The spuds into the manifold will be M6 (normally, or they could be M5) thread so all you need are some very short bolts with a dollop of Hylomar on the threads. That will both act as a thread lock and make sure they seal. I run a single point system on mine but drilled my manifold years ago while it was off in case I ever wanted to change for a multipoint and Hylomar coated bolts have sealed the holes for years now.
Wiring might be a bit more complicated. It will probably have a tap into the Brown/Yellow wire that feeds ignition switched power to the fuel injectors, another one from the TPS feed and the injector cut wires. Just occasionally, the installer will also have connected into one of the lambda sensor feeds too but most don't. The feed from the ECU to each petrol injector will have been cut and a pair or wires connected to intercept the pulses from the ECU to each injector (these intercepts will be a colour and the same colour with a black stripe onto each injector feed), so you will need to remove those and reconnect the feed direct from the ECU to the injector.
If you look at the multivalve on the tank, it will have a knurled knob on it somewhere. That is the shut off for the output in addition to the electrically operated solenoid valve, so screwing that in will isolate the output from the tank.
I know the early base spec ones came with cloth seats but not sure about the later ones..It wouldn't have had electric seats though. Are they the full electric with the up down, forward and back buttons on the side or just the basis electric with only up and down? No sunroof isn't a big deal as long as the AC works, so I would suggest getting that sorted. It might just need re-gassing but if it has a leak chances are it will be from the top right corner of the condenser. The factory sat nav is so out of date these days that not having it is a bonus. It may have the low line audio system (no mid range speakers in the doors) which means it won't have the door amps so any standard head unit will go straight in and just work.
It all sounds much like the MAF, all sorts of strange things can happen if they are iffy. Sometimes they won't start at all, other times they will start but not rev unless you keep pumping the throttle, other times they appear to start and run normally but misfire when under load and it sounds like you've got a mix of all options. Genuine ones are still available but at around a grand a time, I doubt many people buy them (which is probably why they are still available) and aftermarket vary wildly, some work OK, some work but give really odd outputs while others just don't work at all. Secondhand original are a better bet.
17 steps is a touch low, optimum is between 15 and 30 but it should be OK. When the revs drop, the stepper opens up to try to increase the revs back to where they should be but for some reason, it isn't doing it. What is a bit weird is the MAF as at the lower revs it should show a lower airflow not higher. When it is idling lumpy, what happens if you very slowly open the throttle? Do the revs climb steadily and the misfire clears or is there a hesitation at the just open position?
See what different diagnostics show and go from there.
Ahh, no doubt the vacuum reference so the LPG pressure would have been all over the place.
There's not many people that haven't had queries about the EAS, it's black magic until you get you head around it.
That's low, have you replaced the fuel filter? I probably confused things a bit with my last, higher intake vacuum at idle will result in lower fuel pressure and with the throttle open there's less intake vacuum so the fuel pressure will stay high. If the fuel filter is clogged that could explain why it is OK for a few seconds upon dropping to idle and then start missing. It is likely to be running lean most of the time so after a run the fuel trims will have gone positive to correct it so it is then rich next time it is run.
What was your original login? What's the LPG problem?