They aren't the temperature sensors, they are the AC pressure and trinary sensors that live in that area. If you look at the picture closely, you can see that the alloy pipe is going into the top of the receiver dryer.

Of the part numbers you quote, STC3338 is a thermostat but the other two numbers are for a sensor which, as you say, is a flat sensor with 2 holes in it looking like it should bolt onto something. It is very similar in appearance to the one attached to the side of the transmission cooler on a V8 (ESR4329). Looking at that picture it appears there is something with red wires to it on the outer edge of the cooler and the picture here https://www.famousfour.co.uk/new_parts/partslist?veh=rr_p38a&sec=elec&sub_sec=transsense shows the sensor to have red wires to it.

RAVE doesn't seem to show the location of the switch but it does show the location of the connector to it (C1505) as in the LH front corner of the engine bay but as it looks to have a long wire to it, that doesn't really tell you anything.

About 15 years ago I advertised a motorcycle on eBay and that was bought by a guy from Ireland. He turned up in a van with 4 other bikes in it and had two more to pick up before going back as he reckoned they were far cheaper here than in ROI. Whether they were being sold in one piece or broken down to be sold as spare parts I've no idea.

It certainly sounds as though Customs there are being particularly picky. I generated my own commercial export invoice in Word simply with my name and address along with the buyers name and address as I don't have a company, in this respect, I'm a sole trader. Much the same as a breaker I would suspect.

I was going to suggest using RLD in France to make things simpler but their prices are a bit steep (https://www.rld-autos.com/fr/pieces-land-rover/range-rover-p38/37-abs-et-pieces). Your alternative would be to use someone like Island or Rimmers who are geared up for export. Admittedly, genuine won't be cheap though although Island do Europarts ABS sensors for £20 each. .

I had to replace my fuel pipes recently as the return had started to leak. Fortunately, as I run on LPG most of the time I was able to remove the fuel pump relay and run on LPG all the time until I could do the job. I replaced the fuel pump and the pipes from that were just as corroded as the pipes above the tank, so I at least had something solid to attach to. I used a short length of good quality 7.9mm ID fuel hose with proper fuel hose clips (not Jubilee clips as they can squash a hose into D shape) to connect to the pump then replaced the steel pipes above the tank with 8mm copper central heating microbore pipe. Total cost was £20 for 5m of copper pipe and another fiver or so for hose and clips.

The French Customs are pretty easy going compared with the Dutch who it seems the Irish have taken lessons from. I went over on the Harwich to Hook of Holland ferry with a car transporter trailer to collect a car in Rotterdam and take it to SW France. Then pick up another to do a return pick up in SW France and drop off in Rotterdam. Seeing a UK registered car with an empty trailer waiting to get on the ferry to come home, Dutch Customs grilled me thinking I had bought a car over from the UK. I was tempted to take some sandwiches with me. As my missus is from Latvia she buys Latvian bread from a specialist shop here, so I could use that with Lurpak butter (Danish), Elemental cheese (Dutch) and Italian ham. Then I could tell them I wasn't importing anything, I was repatriating it......

Having recently taken over 3 grands worth of equipment to France and had to jump the hoops for exporting commercial goods into the EU from UK (and pay the 2% import duty and 20% VAT equivalent), and posted P38 parts to the USA, it isn't rocket science. Origin of parts, UK, commodity code for ABS sensors 8708309190 and for seat belt buckle 8708219000 (2 minutes on the online tariff) and for the invoice there will have been one from the seller (even if only an eBay invoice).

I agree, it is a direct result of Brexit but it does seem that ROI customs are being particularly picky, a bit like Dutch Customs were seizing truck driver's ham sandwiches as you can't import items of animal origin into EU from the UK.

I'll probably use PTFE gas tape (thicker than water PTFE tape), on the rings if there is any wobble once the rest of the car is sorted out. The wheels are nice but the newest tyre on it is dated 2003 and they are all badly perished so they will need replacing before it is used. Once it has a set of decent tyres and they've been balanced, if it has a wobble I'll do something about it but for the time being I'll leave them. Got bigger fish to fry as they say, there's still a lot of work to do on it.

I think the 'Unknown Fault' on Nanocom is the same as the 'Vehicle Has Moved' in EASUnlock, it always appears but doesn't mean anything.

You won't need axle stands, all you are doing is jacking it up, fitting the blocks and lowering it down again so it sits on the blocks.

Don't just try and do one end, do both front and rear at each height. Ideally it is a 2 person job and you will need two decent jacks. Drop the suspension down to Access (this lets the air out of the springs), jack up both ends (on the chassis) and fit the High blocks, lower the jacks so it is sitting on the blocks then use the Nanocom in Settings mode. With two people you can do an end each rather than having to keep running around the car at every change. Click the Live button which will cause the figures on the right of the screen to show the current height sensor readings, click the Arrow button at the centre of the screen which will change the Stored numbers to the Live numbers. Hit Save (or Record?) and a box will appear twice and tell you they have been saved.

Then jack it up, remove the High blocks, fit the Standard blocks, lower it again and do the same thing. My blocks are home made ones from 30mm Nylon rod and I found that the Access blocks are about the same height as the bumpstops making it difficult to get them out again so I drilled and tapped an M6 thread in the end of them so I can screw a bolt into them to pull them out.

Something I did about 2 hours ago was a calibration. Where the car was parked it was very uneven so we moved it to somewhere a bit flatter. As Garvin says, as long as it is flat enough that the car is sitting on all 4 blocks, that is good enough.

The one I was doing it on has had all sorts of weird EAS faults, constant EAS Fault on the dash, rising to off road height or dropping to the bumpstops with no obvious reason. The owner had taken it to an independent specialist who had replaced the height sensors but when moving it from one height to another, the changes in reading weren't constant, both fronts were jumping about. New height sensors were cheap pattern ones, changed them for used originals and everything was as it should. The saved setting were all over the place too, at one height, front left at 119 and front right at 133, so calibrated it and we now have the biggest difference side to side of 2 bits at all heights.

As Aragom has said, there are no default figures as they will be different from one height sensor to another depending on the exact mounting position and resistance of the track.

But if one side or one corner isn't doing what it should, the most likely cause is a bad connection between the driver pack and the solenoid coils so that one isn't opening when it should. No amount of calibration changes will affect that. the fact that you have to press the rocker a number of times to get it to change would seem to confirm that.

Unlike the other project I've been working on while waiting for the front cover, refitting the rebuilt engine in my boat. The engine is a 4.3 litre V6 Mercruiser which is basically 3/4 of a 5.7 small block Chevy (I know people rave about them but in my opinion possibly the worst designed engine on the planet). It was removed from the boat for a rebuild last year but multiple delays meant it wasn't ready until about December and has sat there waiting to be put back in its home ever since. Problem is that as it is all cast iron, it weighs the best part of 150kg and as the boat is on a trailer the sides of the boat are about 6 feet above ground level and it has to be lifted over that and lowered into place. Ended up taking it to a mate's farm where we attached a chain hoist to the forks of a telehandler and lifted it in using that. Spent a day and a half bolting it in properly and attaching all the ancillaries and, with a hosepipe stuffed into the coolant intake at the back, tried to start it.
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Starter spun it over nicely, accelerator pump in the carb squirted fuel but the best it could manage was a couple of pops out of the exhaust and a flame out of the carb. Decided that it must be ignition timing. I bought the boat with a blown engine (it had been run out of the water and had melted 2 of the pistons amongst other things) and when taking it out, it became apparent that someone had been in there before me. I had been very careful and dot punched the distributor so it could be put back on in the same place as it was before I took it off. Unfortunately, my neighbours timing light (I've got one somewhere but it is so long since I used it I have no idea where it is) showed it to be at about 50 degrees BTDC rather than the 10 it should have been. Set it and it still refused to start, it was even worse, no pops out of the exhaust just a flame out the top of the carb. Checked the firing order, the plug leads in the dizzy cap and they were correct so what else? The only thing now is could it possibly be 180 degrees out? Swapped the HT leads around on the distributor cap and sure enough, it started. Seems that whoever had been in there before had just bunged it on anywhere and I had assumed it was correct.

Too many projects, too little time.....

It lives again! Despite the label on the front cover saying 28/5/24 Next Day, it didn't turn up until Friday afternoon but I was out allday Friday so didn't get chance to do much. Fitted the new oil pump, another front oil seal (courtesy of a quick run over to V8Developments and blag one from their stock) and cam sensor in it and that was it. Had to go out today too but was back by about 2pm so got stuck into it. Front cover on, water pump on, sump on, oil filter filled with oil and fitted, filled the oil pump by pumping oil in through the side cooler hose hole then fitted the hose and filled the sump. Resisted the temptation to fire it up at that point so then it was serpentine belt on, radiator in, viscous fan on and filled the cooling system and it was time for the moment of truth.

Ignition on and the oil pressure light on the dash came on, turned the key and nothing happened.... Then remembered I'd taken the starter relay out just in case I accidentally turned the key while it was in bits. Fitted that, turned it over and it fired up immediately. Oil light stayed on for about 3 seconds then went out. Let it idle for a couple of minutes then switched off. No nasty noises, no oil or coolant pouring out of anywhere I'd forgotten to connect or tighten up, all seemed fine. On a second start, as by now the oil had been circulated and all the galleries filled, the oil light went out almost instantly so I let it run up to normal operating temperature. A few air bubbles into the coolant header tank and they then stopped and a nice constant stream from the bleed hole just inside the neck.

However, it did throw up an ABS fault on the dash (when I thought I'd dealt with them) and the Nanocom says it is a faulty pressure switch. As the pump doesn't seem to run, that's probably correct but that can wait for another day.....

Putting stuff back together is always easier than taking it apart. You aren't dealing with seized bolts and sitting there working out how something comes apart, you just bolt it all together in the opposite order to how it came apart.

This https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com./shop/product/ncom07 is the one you need for the Thor. Yes, you'll get an email from them. Remember as we are no longer EU, you will be buying VAT free although may have to pay it when it arrives. There is one advantage of that when you buy an upgrade to include different vehicles (I've got GEMS, Thor and diesel options in mine), the price you pay is without VAT but as there is nothing physical to be sent by post, just an unlock code by email, there's no VAT to pay.

I know of one specialist that declares items he sends out as faulty items that have been repaired and are being returned, that way nobody pays the VAT.

The only time I've seen anyone selling one of eBay, it's been either secondhand or more expensive than direct from Blackbox.

Nanocom gets confused with which corner is faulty on the Wabco D system and doesn't report the correct one.

Front/Right (Live Value box) = Front Right (vehicle sensor)
Rear/Right (Live Value box) = Front Left (vehicle sensor)
Rear/Left (Live Value box) = Rear Right (vehicle sensor)
Front/Left (Live Value box) = Rear Left (vehicle sensor)

Although Front Right is the only one it does get correct. Try unplugging it and see if the fault is the same or if it reports 2 faulty sensors.

An update. Received all the bits I needed for the red one (now named Cherry by the other half) and started putting it together. Removed the oil pump that was in it and fitted the new one from Turners, swapped the cam sensor over and fitted a new front oil seal. Put it all in and fitted a brand new Airtex water pump I bought some time ago in case I ever needed one in a hurry even though the one that was on it seemed OK but why not. Got it almost finished and tried to connect the oil cooler hose only to find that the thread was damaged on the one that goes into the bottom and even with PTFE tape I couldn't get it to bite tight enough to be happy with it. By then it was late last Friday evening so called Dave at East Coast Range Rovers on Saturday morning and left him a message on the off-chance as he doesn't normally open on Saturdays.

Got a call from him Monday morning but he was on holiday in France for a week (school half term so away with the kids) but would send me a replacement as soon as he got back bank holiday weekend. Tuesday DHL sent me an email telling me they had it and it would be delivered on Wednesday. Wednesday came and went and now when I check the DHL tracking it says it has been delayed and will be delivered next working day. So when it will arrive is anyone's guess......

In other news, the Ascot goes to its new owner later today, so I'll be back down to only 2 P38s, even if one of them currently has bits of the front of the engine missing and is parked in a really awkward place.

Could be E10, no idea, but if the emissions are spot on, I wouldn't worry about it.

Nanocom can open individual valves, I do it all the time if I want to lift a car to get underneath without running the engine. Go to the outputs screen and you open any one of the corner valves, then scroll to the next screen and open either inlet or exhaust. So if I want to lift or lower the front of the car while working on it, on the first screen tap open front left and front right, go to the next screen and tap on open inlet or exhaust and then tap close all when it is at the height I want it. If there isn't enough air in the reservoir on the next screen you can turn the compressor on or off.

Clogged silencer would definitely do it as it wouldn't allow air out when it needs to. You can unscrew it and leave it off to test, it won't do any harm but you will find out why it is there. When it exhausts air, you'll certainly hear it.

That wouldn't explain it losing all pressure from the reservoir when you switch it on though. When changing height, it will always open the rears first then the fronts once the rear is up to height to prevent your headlights dazzling people when changing height. Quite why the Nanocom is reporting both inlet and exhaust as open at the same time though is a bit weird.