Depends what scanner you are using on it. The GEMS is not fully OBD compliant but OBD2 only understands 0-1V Zirconia sensors and not the 5-0V Titania ones we have so a generic scanner will often translate the 5-0V signal into the equivalent 0-1V where 0V is lean and 1V is rich. I've got a Nanocom which shows the readings correctly but I've also got a Launch CReader (V or V1) which translates the 5-0V into 0-1V readings and I think, but can't be certain, that it does show them the correct way round (showing 0V for lean and 1V for rich). Correct MAF readings are 20 (+-3) kg/hr at idle, rising steadily to 61 (again +-3) kg/hr at 2,500 rpm. Fuel pressure should be 34-37 psi but with reference to intake manifold pressure so will vary with throttle depending upon how much intake vacuum there is (higher at idle, lower with throttle open).

Look at the fuel pressure on the Schrader vlave on the fuel rail, you don't need anything clever, you can use a tyre pressure gauge. With it running, look at the O2 (Lambda) sensor outputs. On a GEMS they are 5-0V sensors with 5V being lean and 0V being rich and should flip-flop between the two limits. If it starts missing the problem is usually it going rich, so you would be looking at the sensor voltages going to 0V. Also look at the output from the MAF sensor and see what that is showing you. If you have replaced with a pattern part, they often give really odd readings.

What's the fuel pressure and does it droop when the misfire starts? 110psi is low on all pots but it still shouldn't cause a misfire, it will just be a bit down on power. About the only thing you haven't changed is the crank position sensor but they normally work perfectly OK until they get hot and then they die completely. Do you have diagnostics that can show live data?

Last time I changed one I tapped the cold chisel into the slot and left it there while putting the spline into place so it held it open. Once it was in I then pulled the chisel out and put the pinch bolt in.

Not sure it is but opening it out a bit with a thin cold chisel allows it to slide on easier.

If it is coming out of the little vent hose and not the exhaust silencer, that would suggest a problem with the diaphragm valve. Has the valve block been apart?

Or just bungy it to the gear lever. Yes, the steering wheel is heavier at one side so if you don't tie it, it turns all on its own as soon as the column is disconnected, Then you've got to try to get it back on in the same place or your steering wheel is on the piss and there's a danger of buggering up the clockspring thing.

More a don't skimp on an expensive car, particularly when we can charge £3 each for 50p copper washers. Yes, they are standard banjo copper washers but when I changed my steering box I reused the ones that were on it and they don't leak.

Make sure the one you've got to go on is complete with the Pitman arm as taking one of those off needs about 4 people to hold it steady while someone else belts it with a sledge hammer. RAVE says to take the washer reservoir out but I found that undoing the securing bolts and shoving it forwards gives enough clearance. Tie the steering wheel where it is as it will turn when you disconnect the steering column at the steering box. Don't have the steering lock on or there will almost certainly be tension on the splines so it won't slide off easily. Give both splines a good dosing with Plug Gas and a small tapered chisel in the slot increases the chances of it coming off. I used a wedge type ball joint splitter to get it to start moving away from the box. Destroyed the plastic ring with the centre marks on it but as it was scrap anyway it doesn't matter. A simple enough job even if it is bloody heavy and a bit awkward.

Out of balance front wheels can be felt through the steering, but with rear wheels you don't feel a lot through the steering wheel, you feel it through the seat of your pants.

What makes you think it is the rear propshaft? Out of balance rear wheels tend to hit resonance around 55-60 mph (88-96kph) and that can be felt through the whole car.

Exhaust solenoid or clogged exhaust filter?

That's true, diagnostic line goes through the timer relay on the extra pins.

On a V8 it isn't built into the radiator, it's in front of it. There's the radiator and in front of that is the AC condenser with the engine and gearbox oil coolers sandwiched in between. On the diesel the engine oil cooler is in the same place but you have the intercooler between the radiator and AC condenser so there isn't room for the gearbox oil cooler too, hence it being tucked away where the V8 has a front foglight.

I think the L322 has either the oil or transmission cooler built into the radiator though.

With the Nanocom, all systems need the ignition on or engine running, only the BeCM needs it to be off.

EAS data line goes through the connector on the passenger side. So does the feed between EAS ECU and dashboard switch.

EAS uses a different pin in the OBD port to the others, so corrosion on the OBD port is favourite.

It does seem a bit odd. 255 is, or should be, the width in millimetres so that is what they all should be, although looking here https://tiresize.com/calculator/, the width doesn't appear to be the tread width but the sidewall width at their widest point. The red one I've recently got has 255/55 x 19 Goodyear Wranglers on it and the tread width on those measures 250mm but the sidewalls don't 'bulge' out beyond the tread by much at all and at the widest point would be around 255mm.

My car is on 7" x 16" wheels with 235/70 x 16 Kleber all season tyres, (which is usually a Disco or base model P38 size and that was what plod specified when it was new) and they measure around 210mm across the tread but 235mm at the widest point of the sidewall.

Aragorn wrote:

Perhaps you can find a good used switch instead of spending £100+ on a new one?

I suspect you'd be able to pick up a used cooler complete with switch for a lot less than a new switch.

On a slight tangent but still in the same area, has anyone else noticed a change in exhaust note when the transmission gets up to temperature and the Torque Converter locks up? I live just over half a mile from the A1(M) so no matter where I am going, it always involves going on the motorway. Drive along at constant throttle at around 60mph and after about 3 miles, the revs drop by about 250rpm and the car starts to accelerate? I never used to notice it but since I fitted the Gravity stainless exhaust, I can hear a change in exhaust note as if I have given it more throttle. Has anyone else noticed the same?

Unless you do a lot of towing heavy things up hills in very hot weather, chances are the fan would never come on anyway so even if the fan did wear out through constant use, it probably wouldn't be any great loss. The transmission cooler on a V8 is where your intercooler is and that doesn't have a fan.....

That's good news. It may be that Customs assumed the parts were new and the price had been under declared in an attempt to pay a reduced duty rate. I always mark anything leaving the country as USED which explains a low value.