Didn't think you were allowed to go out at the moment, not for anything that isn't considered 'essential' anyway.

Probably. You wouldn't want an oily residue on brake discs so it should work nicely.

Switch cleaning spray will usually leave an oily deposit so will just make the sticky mess even stickier, that's why I said to use brake cleaner as it evaporates and doesn't leave a deposit. The switch is right inside the lock so the whole lot has to come out and be taken apart. There also a couple of little springs in there that are a real fiddle to get back. Brake cleaner using a long tube so it gets right inside the lock and flushes the muck out is much easier.

When you open the door after taking the key out, does the dash beep and say Ignition Key In? In which case it won't let you lock it so you don't lock the keys inside. There's a microswitch in the bottom of the ignition lock that detects if the key is in or not and it can get gummed up with dust and rubbish. A good squirt with brake cleaner (as it evaporates and doesn't leave a residue) and work the key in and out a few times should clean it out. If you do it with the door open, the dash should tell you if it is working or not.

Hello and welcome. Where are you?

Bought a few ex-MoD series 3s when they got rid of them all and replaced them with Defenders. All 2.25 petrols, and all much the same as you described, noisy, slow, rattly, uncomfortable but I never drove one far enough to check the reliability due to them being noisy, slow, rattly, etc. I picked up our brand new works Disco 1 from the main dealers when it was supplied to us new in 1993. Got it back to the office and was asked what I thought, my comment at the time was that if I wanted to drive a truck I'd prefer to have a Scania.

Due to one of our works Discos getting rolled when being used off road, everyone that drove one got sent to Solihull for the off road course. This would have been when the P38 was still current and I asked one of the instructors which was the best off road expecting him to say the Defender but he didn't. He reckoned the best by far was the P38 on EAS. What I did learn on that course is that the driver will run out of bottle long before the car runs out of ability and you don't need to fit huge wheels and tyres and lift the suspension to make it capable of being used off road.

That Disco 1 lasted 10 years before it was pensioned off and went to auction where it was bought by my mate who lived up the side of a mountain in the south of France who kept it until a couple of years ago. It broke the gearbox first motion shaft and got a new gearbox under warranty but after that all it needed was routine servicing and a couple of propshaft UJs. I even lapped the Monaco Grand Prix circuit in it one day.....

Originals are FW26025A1, datasheet and equivalents https://alltransistors.com/transistor.php?transistor=69253

Phone them and speak to Dave, he'll tell you exactly what bits you need to change.

Not necessarily but you will need a flat straight piece of road to check it on. Drive the car so it is tracking straight ahead, then with the steering lock off (key in), check the steering box and see if the marks are aligned. There's a lug on a plastic ring around the input shaft and a matching lug cast into the steering box body. If they aren't, there's your problem so you need to adjust the drag link. With the wheels on the ground and the steering lock off, as you adjust the drag link (you'll probably need lots of Plus Gas and a big pair of Stilsons and the suspension on high to give you more room to swing on it), it will turn the input shaft rather than the wheels. Once the box is centralised with the wheels straight ahead, you can adjust the steering wheel on the splines either at the intermediate steering shaft or the steering wheel itself. Don't forget that any adjustment of the upper column will affect the indicator cancelling. If that is keener to cancel when turning one way than the other, the upper shaft isn't centralised, so adjusting at the intermediate shaft is where you want to make any changes. If it appears to be central, it is the wheel that needs moving on the column.

There's multiple splined joints between steering wheel and steering box, so the column and wheel can be set just about anywhere you want. The steering box needs to be centralised (lug on the input shaft) and the column and wheel then set straight with respect to that. Then you adjust the centering on the drag link. If you set the wheels in straight ahead, adjust the drag link so the box is centralised, then adjust the wheel to that.

Absolutely, this forum was set up for refugees from RR.net but immediately started getting members from Landyzone too. Seems a lot of the 'One Life, Live It' Defender owners over there look down on the P38 (or anything else that isn't the same as what they own). I've owned a LWB Classic as well as 4 P38s and had a 200TDi Disco 1 as a work motor which was replaced with a TD5 Disco 2. The Classic would dissolve as I looked at it and with the first P38, I didn't trust it as far as I could throw it for the first couple of years of owning it. I don't judge anyone for their choice of vehicle, I mean, my sister drives a Nissan Leaf(!), I personally don't like diesels of any sort but others do so who am I to judge?

Wouldn't like to say, but it certainly looks that way. They don't usually fail though.

You hit Reply twice, so I've just deleted the duplicate post. Sounds a bit odd. The compressor is controlled by the pressure switch so if the pressure in the reservoir is low, it will kick in. It sounds as though pressure is low, so it isn't rising up and the light is still flashing, but for some reason it isn't detecting the low pressure and switching the compressor on.

There used to be no end of magic potions to disguise a worn out engine, STP was the usual one used to get rid of the big end clatter on a cold start. They would work after a fashion but not for long (only until you'd managed to flog off the old dog in most cases), although bunging a litre of EP90 into the sump did much the same job. I tried Lucas power steering stop leak as I was told it was wonderful stuff and would cure a leaking power steering rack. It didn't, made no difference at all.....

How do you know it doesn't start straight away? If the compressor mounts are good and the washers the right way up, you won't hear it. The only way you will know it is running is to put your hand on it. It will get noisier once it is working harder and the pressure is coming up.

+1 on giving Dave Ashcroft a call, he will know the differences and which bits you would need to swap over as it's the same box, https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/automatic-gearboxes/zf4hp22eh.html

I was thinking belt idlers too. Maybe it's just me but I would have thought a cam and followers would have been higher up the list of priorities than a Tornado?

I had always assumed it was another trading name for RPi but apparently not. However, I just found this https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/107037-rip-paul-from-v8tuner/ so it looks like they may have closed down. I'll send Escape a message on the dark side and see what he knows.

DavidAll wrote:

You are welcome to use my Nanocom. I bought it on Ebay a couple of months ago and haven't even tried setting it up yet. I won't be needing it for a while yet. It looks a bit of a palaver but perhaps Richard can advise.

The only setting up is registering it with BBS, or, if you are adding a new licence, it looks complicated but is pretty straightforward really. Assuming you bought one with a GEMS licence to suit your car, it will still need the Bosch Motronic licence if you need it to deal with the engine. However, a Nanocom with only a GEMS (or Diesel) licence will still do all the other systems on a Motronic, so would work fine for EAS, HEVAC, BeCM, ABS and gearbox, it just won't talk to the engine ECU. Mine has GEMS and EDC licences (but not Motronic) and I've been using it on the 2001 Vogue I'm helping restore for the ABS, HEVAC and EAS.

The reason why the Nano is so expensive is that Colin from BBS is based in Cyprus and they are priced in Euros. I watched the price in pounds go up and down with the exchange rate and got mine when it was at it's best for just over £300, but since then the Euro price has remained much the same, just the exchange rate has meant the pounds price has rocketed.

No Brian, still looking. It's a 4 pin, round one as I'm using the lambda sensor from a 1.8 Focus but looks like its the same one used on all models of Focus..