Today, went to the shops in it and opened the bonnet. Coolant level, not dropped, oil level, not dropped, closed the bonnet again.
However, on Thursday, I drove it to Dover, got on a ferry and found I'm not the only nutter that drives to the Continent in what some consider to be one of the most unreliable vehicles you can buy. Drove off the ferry to find myself 3 cars behind a Classic (M900 something, don't remember the rest). Fully loaded, roof rack with a pair of spare wheels, small box trailer piled high and the interior of the car full too. He headed off towards Lille while I was heading towards Paris so after a bit of light flashing and waving, we went our separate ways.
Friday, arrived at Morat's parents in rural, Central France, loaded a 1932 Austin 7 onto the Ifor Williams CT115 trailer I was dragging behind me and set off back towards Calais. Weather slowed progress a bit due to flooded roads around Paris (didn't bother me but everyone else seemed scared of puddles more than a couple of inches deep) but finally arrived at Calais to be told the weather had screwed up the ferry timetables so I had to wait a couple of hours for the next boat.
Saturday, took the Austin 7 up to North Yorkshire, dropped it off and headed back home again.
Looking here, https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1945-got-there, I hit 400,000 miles on the 21st August and I'm now up to this.......
If I carry on at this rate, I can hit half a million in about a year and a half......
They look near new compared to some I've changed....
Does sound a bit odd. When cold idle will be around 950 rpm but will progressively drop to the 650 or so once it starts to warm up. That'll usually happen long before the temp gauge starts to even move though. Idle air valve maybe?
Absolutely correct Brian. If the BeCM doesn't see an N or P signal from the XYZ switch, it won't energise the starter relay. Although he said that it eventually did start and didn't go into gearbox fault until later. Admittedly they could both be connected and without the experience to tie the two things in together it's easy to assume more than one fault. A bit like the car my mate in France bought. No interior lights and suspension not dropping at speed but you'd need to know a P38 before putting the blame for a suspension fault on a dodgy microswitch in a door latch.
No start and no faults suggests CPS, no gear display and gearbox fault showing is likely to be XYZ switch. Both pretty standard on a car that has been neglected. Took me nearly 2 years before I trusted mine further than I could throw it. Now I just get in it and drive it. Hit 400k a month ago, now showing 406k and setting off for another 2,000 miles tomorrow morning......
That was an easy one then.
I've got a want. I could do with a LH front fog light (early style), as mine has a stone chip (or bullet) hole in it and is filling up with rainwater......
Unplug the fuel pump relay and use a small screwdriver to see if any of the spade terminals under the plastic wobble. If they do, there's a cracked solder joint where the terminal joins the circuit board.
My original fusebox started playing up years ago so I pulled it apart and gave it a going over, soldering any dodgy looking joints and putting wire links on any tracks that looked to have been getting warm. It was fine for 5 years or so but then one of the spade contacts for the petrol pump relay went intermittent. Ordinarily it fires up on petrol then almost immediately switches over to LPG but fortunately I can start on LPG. As a temporary fix I ran a wire from the engine ECU directly to the relay so bypassing the connection in the fusebox but replaced the fusebox not long after.
This thread seems to deal with it https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/dreaded-p1412-code-67729/
P1412 didn't appear on my list of codes but as it relates to the SIA system which only NAS cars have, it isn't something we'd find normally.
Looks about right if it is as good as the ad says.
There's a couple more in the Car and Classic auction.
Don't know how it works coming this way, but I've bought a couple of Direnza alloy radiators for people in the US as Direnza won't ship overseas. Carriage on those was around £100 and US Customs don't charge any duty on anything with a value under $500. Even though the buyers had to pay the VAT as they were being sent to me and then forwarded on, they still worked out at about half the price of anything similar available in the US.
Failing CPS would explain why it is intermittent and also why it will try to fire but not catch. If it was out of sync, it just wouldn't try.
I'd be inclined to sit them on a socket and attack them with a ball pein hammer. Then they will be dished......
Sounds good and looks like you've covered everything. Only comment I have is that I attempted to change the rear trailing arm bushes but even with the weight of the car on the end of the breaker bar, I still couldn't undo the bolts so gave up. Doing the front end will make one hell of a difference though.
The Jaguar Land Rover Classic section has been set up fairly recently and are supplying parts for older cars, in recognition that there's some of us out here that don't want to spend lots of money on a new one and are keeping the older ones alive. Some parts they are now remanufacturing, others may well be stuff they've had in stock for years.
If you've unscrewed the blend motor and checked the movement on the actual flaps and it appears that they are moving over the full range, it could be the feedback pot in the blend motor has a dead spot at one end. If you use your (un-named) diagnostic to look at the signal being returned from the motor while causing it to move from one end of the travel to the other, you may well find that is moves smoothly up to a point then stops. You may be able to sort it by pulling the blend motor apart and filling the pot with switch cleaner.
Blimey, I bet that won't work with Marshalls in Peterborough......
That'll make it easier to plug into, no grovelling in the passenger footwell.
That's how it's supposed to look, the bag rolls over itself onto the base. Bumpstop looks well squashed though or that might just be the angle the photo was taken from.